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CHANGES last won the day on December 29 2020

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  • Birthday 28/09/1958

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  • Name
    Dave Lisle
  • Car
    Esprit SE, (modified)
  • Modifications
    See 412 bhp thread
  • Location

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  1. Part 16 Home stretch .. Well all good things come to an end and it was time to draw a line under this one , The chassis was shot blasted and re- galvanized to give it fresh new look along with decades of future rust protection. Before After Needless to say , other than dimensional check and reaming out the mount points, plus tapping a few threads , that was as far as I went with the chassis on this restoration ... At this point is was passed back to @RichardJGC for him to do the assembly work .. On return, I dropped in the engine and B
  2. Here we go again , Flat, Flat, rub , prep , flat, feel ... The feely bit always shows you more than you can see.. Although there are still layer build processes to do , the better the accuracy of repairs to date , the easier and better the final shape will be ... Finishing all the repair section joints and fitting cover trims . Then mask and prep for polly coats Next up ... shadow coat and Yes you guessed it .... more flatting ..
  3. Sorry about slow reply Jason. It is much as @Barrykearley and @Escape say on engine bay temp ... But with the added effect of trying to reduce the pull forces that the compressor has to do ... The harder the compressor works to produce boost the more it will cavitate and generate heat.. The heat is a negative and will reduce VE . Much the same as a hot engine bay .. So the system I devised will give the least restrictive flow to the compressor and at speed will provide a ram air efficiency to aid flow at higher rpm. The main benefit of the ram air is to reduce pressure differences acro
  4. Part 15 To get a Naked Bottom , '' in the pink'' Part 2.. There are a lot of totally naff jobs that have to be done in a restoration, some have their own rewards in the finish or function which help balance out the effort that goes into it .. But scraping the old seal off the bottom of a car takes the biscuit ... Excuse the pun but its a real bummer of a job ... So there you have it , something I don't like doing . !!! With jobs like this, they have to be done , so just do them... Many years ago I used the YTS students.. The one job i did not mind delegating.. It did no
  5. With the previous areas completed , there was just the door handle mod to complete on the drivers door .. Starting with a painted original , we remove and fit a template to work from, which outlines the new handle. Next we grind down the thickness of the panel so the new handle can fit flush . This recess will also provide the lip for the for the new handle to locate into .. The original square shape is profiled at the same time to mirror the internal section of the new handle . Once completed the mask can be removed and the new handle fitted.. A small amount
  6. Part 14 To get a Naked Bottom , '' in the pink'' .. Before we can start getting the bottom sorted , we need to remove the Chassis .. So first set up the lifting frames. Next locate in position with all fixtures and fittings removed . Then lower the chassis from the shell in one smooth action . Job done . just need to park the shell in the upper position so most of the frames can be removed and we can get down to the dirty work .. As you can see from the above picture some under-body protection had been previously applied which w
  7. Hi @Jukka a @AndyPG is correct in that these are the balance air bleeds for the TB's. In the casting above the holes you will see a recess with a core plug type cap fitted ... under that is the adjuster screw.. In most cases on each TB one screw is fully in and the other slightly open to compensate for irregularities between the butterfly valve seats.. When i have tested these on rebuilds , i have found that the ones slightly open are fully blocked with crap , so required removal to clean.. as I usually have them vapor blasted , removal is a requirement , but resetting is an ess
  8. Part 13 Provisional assembly .. With all panels prepped , careful assembly is started, realigning and gaping as we go .. This is the time you are thankful you took the time to check and re check , fit and re-fit during each stage. At the time it seemed like so much fiddling a faffing , but experience has taught me this is when all that work pays off… The pic above is showing the side of front wing and how it aligns with the bonnet form . So you may think that is it.... But NO !! we need to do the bottom ..
  9. To get this thread moving again after a break we will look at the poor fit on the transom . As we can see from previous pic's the after market part was wider, this may be due to a later part going onto an earlier body mold . The solution was to just machine the two ends down and GRP the areas to the correct length , finishing with glaze fillers.. Whist doing the driver side I noticed some sinkage in the rear quarter where a rear wing had been previously fitted. These had been filled before repaint but in a short time could be seen.. (not so obvious in this pic but more so in r
  10. Never had a problem with any , plating is pretty but don't last, Powder coat is far more durable .. i will go powder coat on mine next time round , plating looked great when done , but 18 months later on our roads started to age quick.. It now looks like i had not done it .. i have recently seen a powder coated one i did 6 years ago , still looks good , that is the data , make your own choices they both do a job ..
  11. I concur . When doing any body off restoration, I take great care as to label and bag each body mounting shim . But what must be said and may be relevant in @Vanya's case is , always make sure it sits square and can be set up correct before stripping , if possible .... If not and it is out of level as Vanya's is then a simple level assessment between the chassis and the body can be done . This is done on flat level surface or frame , with level gauges and measures.. This will establish if any body chassis alignment is out , before setting up the suspension.. it is doubtful a body
  12. Hi @Vanya, In a nut shell they should not lean and did not lean when they left the factory ,... The statement they all do that or a lot do that, is just an excuse made by those who have one that leans because it is not set up correct.. Your Geo check can be fine but your ride height and spring pre-load will influence how the Esprit sits.. A mismatched damper or worn or degraded bush , maybe even a soft spring , all will have an effect.. A lot of this will depend on what you have fitted . As there is so many odds and sods available that fit with original springs and mounts etc
  13. Continued..... So More flatting and shaping. The initial work was to skim off the new GRP resin'd finish to as close to original shape before applying the glaze coat.. Because i did not put any pigment in the resin , you can see through to the lower layers .. But it still has a substantial bridging layer. Once the glaze is applied and flatted to the required finish , a final test fit of the door is done .. This was previously done to check gaping etc ,this time is just to ensure the levels have not changed. As it turns out all was fine , but always worth a check before
  14. Very carefully .. . Early on in the process , I took measurements, made templates, and created datum points to work from... It was all carefully marked out checked twice and cut once.. It all comes back to the old statement , fail to plan or plan to fail .
  15. One of the body shops I've talked with won't do it as they say it sinks over time and will become visible ... What they mean to say is ... 'We are not capable of doing it well enough ' ... so we will save face by telling you it is not a plausible solution.. Fact is , It is practical and has been done many times without issue . You just need to find the right people .... Maybe worth giving that body shop a wide birth ....
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