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CHANGES last won the day on February 3

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  • Birthday 28/09/1958

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    Motor sport...... golf.....Clasic cars

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  • Name
    Dave Lisle
  • Car
    Esprit SE, (modified)
  • Modifications
    See 412 bhp thread
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  1. Your sealant pattern is fine , There were / are pic's of the sealant and other bits on page 4 of S300 No. 25 Restoration resumed also of the sump page 12 of 412 BHP...THAT WILL DO NICELY...... As the MBH and the block are pattern parts machined as one , this if as you say may indicate the whole engine is of later spec and not original to your Esprit.. Even though the machining is very similar between engines it is very rare to get an MBH from one engine to fit another perfect without line boring and fitting outsize bearings, These bearing are no longer available and the MBH and engine would have been stamped with outsize adjustment.. Before you torqued up the MBH the threads should have been lightly oiled. Some people use loctite as the lubricant. I prefer to lightly oil the threads and then also use loctite blue as extra precaution.. Maybe you were not aware of the reason for this , so mabe this will help. When a bolt is lubricated - less torque is required to achieve bolt axial load or tension. Reduction of torques for lubricated vs. dry bolts are indicated in the table below. Lubricant Torque Reduction (%) No lube 0 Graphite 50 - 55 White Grease 35 - 45 SAE 30 oil 35 - 45 SAE 40 oil 30 - 40 Example - Reduction of Torque when Bolt is Lubricated The maximum tightening torque for a slightly lubricated 1" Grade 5 coarse bolt is 483 lb ft. Dry bolt torque is approximately 30% higher - or 628 lb ft. Tdry = (483 lb ft) (1 + (30%) / (100%)) = 628 lb ft If the bolt is lubricated with SAE 30 oil - the torque compared to a dry bolt is reduced with approximately 40%. TSAE30 = (628 lb ft) (1 - (40%) / (100%)) = 377 lb ft Note that if torque specified for a dry or slightly oiled bolt torque is applied to a lubricated bolt - the bolt may overload and break. Referring to the last paragraph, in your case you may well not have reached the required torque , It may be worth just undoing the nuts and big end bolts applying a bit of oil and re torquing.. I only suggest this, as it is such and important area where the extreme loading's are the reason for that level of torque.. I have been fitting them for years without a tool or leaks.. I normally apply a liberal amount of Graphogen to the crank and the seal and it slips on quite easy.. Slide the cover and seal into place against the block , it with self center . then tighten.. NB these are very low torque so I apply smear of welseal to both sides of gasket to ensure no leak... it also helps keep the gasket in place when doing the job..
  2. Thanks! Good job I havn't adjusted it! Hopefully I would have checked the manual again before doing anything! Hi Fabian , I don't wish to interfere, but Just small points i noted so was interested . Did you decided or where you advised by your expert the above was not necessary on your particular engine and if so why, does that also apply to no apparent oil/ loctite on the MDH threads before torquing.... I only ask as many people will be using this as an instruction thread and you drew attention to it circa page 151 . The oil and Loctite also applies to the big end bolts .. ?
  3. That's fine, I only mentioned it as you are so particular about every detail of cleanliness , I thought it was possibly something you were not aware of.. It's probably best I don't confuse things with my input when you already have the advise of others.. Good luck with the project, I look forward to seeing the finished product.
  4. I think you will actually find any garage or engine builder worth their salt would, It is not in their interest to build something that would fail from not attending to cleaning parts.. You must do as you see fit. if you have not removed the plugs you have not accessed all the oil galleries so can not be sure.. your bore scope must be very small, but will still not show the whole picture due to the angles.. As I say any garage worth their salt would remove the plugs to check and clean.. less than 20 minutes to do the whole job seems a no brainier to me .... But you must do what you feel is best.. I was only trying to give insight from my experiences, Sorry i did not intend to upset the flow of your thread. .. ..
  5. None as far as i am aware , i have used it for years without issue. I remove the plugs as part of strip down, then flush the galleries before any cleaning to see what is in there , Its amazing what crap lies in there .. I then seal the galleries for media cleaning.. then flush and clean again as part of pre assembly clean.. Best to remove the plugs on the head galleries as well, along with the roll pins, there is no way you will get a thorough clean otherwise.. re-seal the plus with 572.
  6. Have a look at this pic , You will see there is a sizable pocket where all sorts of matter gathers..which can not be accessed any other way, For the little time it takes to remove a couple of plugs I can not understand why any one would not.. Also the small plug on the fly wheel end will enable you to pull though the whole length of the gallery and crossing points.
  7. That is fair enough , But I can not see how you can access all area's without removing them . There are unseen pockets that can hold un- desirable matter if not accessed... Different engine builders have different methods, you must follow the advise of your expert... I use a loctite zero gasket, I think Peter uses the Red version , I would of thought he would have sold you some during your recent visit..
  8. Have you accessed all the area's of the longitudinal gallery, does not seem so in the pictures you have posted.. and very important , especially when cleaned with and media, like bead or aqua blasting . It will be a bit late when the crank back in. It is also worth removing all the head and MBH studs, checking threads and re-torquing to spec.. The threads are rolled on these and there were some bad ones back in the early 80's with flat tops which eventually pulled out under load.. rare occurrence but I have experienced them so always check just to be sure.. Also if an engine has been previously worked on, you need to be sure they are fitted correct..
  9. You could use it as a mounting point for OBD port from your Omex ECU.. This will allow you to plug in a lap top / tablet , then study tuning parameters in real time. I found that very useful during development of mine when fitted with Omex.. Its actually amazing the little tuning points you can pick up on which are not so evident during dyno time.. Or you could fit a digital boost controller which piggy backs the Omex with up six settings , then fit the boost control switch in that spot. Just a thought
  10. FFS. *********** !!! How could this engine be sold as one which had oil in it and previously turned over.. None of the exposed parts indicate this was at all the case.... The person who sold this car should be ashamed and held to account for selling under false representation... Its a bloody disgrace....
  11. Nasty, really nasty, this is some of the worst assembly attempts ever.. Anyone who put this together and expected it to run has been smoking some serious weed.. There is no alternative but to rebuild from the ground up , that is after everything has been checked for compliance and quality.. ie crack testing etc.. I feel there is nothing that can be trusted by appearance alone. It can not be assumed that this will be a straight forward machine and build, a lot of consideration with need to be taken into account at each stage , just to be sure. The fact that the crank was tight even when belt was off may well have been the bore/rings snagging. Or this could be from how its torqued down and the fact wrong sealer used, this could introduced a very fractional twist which can lock the crank and pull on the bearings. I would also be checking the MBH and block were married parts and inspecting for block alignment etc before starting anything.. certainly a lot to consider on this one..
  12. ooooh ... Cringe.. Bit worried why you should struggle to get MBH off, I take it the M8's are stuck. Also the solution in auxiliary housing which should be oil , would give concern on the condition of the dry sump pump. Looks like water ingress. But nearly there , not much more to find . On the positive side you have not found any of the good bits yet, maybe today..
  13. I am afraid it was me , A drawing board, pencil , ruler , and imagination . This part was relatively straight forward to make, but had to be stiff enough not to distort at high speeds and also included some damping to prevent drumming noise in the cabin again at speed.. The real work was closing off the wheel wells so that air would flow constructively rather than just spill around willy nilly which would compromise the design... Most important was all of these parts would restrict access so needed to be easily removable when needed. Several years on they have been on and off many times without issue... Pic's of other arch sections for info should anyone like to make their own.. When you get down to it there is quite a bit more that you don' see.. You must also remember the extra ducting and engine bay fans for when stationary to keep air flowing..
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