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CHANGES last won the day on April 4

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  • Birthday 28/09/1958

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  • Name
    Dave Lisle
  • Car
    Esprit SE, (modified)
  • Modifications
    See 412 bhp thread
  • Location

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  1. First stage of colour flat and polish done .. Panel align and fit done .. A few fiddly bits to finish off before we move onto interior ..
  2. In answer to @drdoom on floor and Arch finish, it is as @Fridge answered Raptor is a great aftermarket product. Just for information purposes I did 2k colour on my own Esprit which has lasted exceptionally well in the main but waring on some of the excess traffic points . In answer to @fjmuurling the answer @sailorbob gave is correct with grade 8.8 or higher . A bit longer is fine as long as you have enough thread length , Always remember to allow for the tracking spacers which will vary car to car .. ( Next up more Guide coat and , yes you guessed it FLATTING ) So here we
  3. Thanks for sharing.. best puzzle for a long time .. Two days of stress to find out your first diagnosis was spot on. I think we will put that in the memory box under experience to remember.. The plus side is all the other faults you found and fixed during the search .. The customer is going to be all made up when he gets it back .. well done , pure dedication .. time to relax
  4. @Steve4012 Yes either method will be fine . Different shops have different methods and products. This comes from what they have been using during training or what they have found works best for them .. I think the one common thing is the repair where gel crack or damage is, or could be ! A re-gel or GRP with finish mat as i have done on this one Will insure the quality of the repair .. I would not rely on just filler and a Reface primer in those area's , its will not have such a good bridging quality as a mat would .. If all the crack has been removed then this is not such an issue , however
  5. Thanks for the prompt. Even though i offer all the services in house, I doubt it will be cost effective to send the Esprit from the US to the UK restore and return .. nice thought though .. If @Mrtiticus would like to PM me I am happy to go though the prelimaries , to give him some idea..
  6. I wear a coverall, same as i use when spraying, and a suitable mask , then sweep and vacume up after each section .. You would be amazed how much dust you get .. If i had used a machine or air tool to sand ,it would go everywhere, even the ones with extractors are not much better . Its bad enough as it is , not the most confortable job to do .. I expect that is why it gets short cut in a lot of shops .. I tend to have the extractors on at the same time which can pull a lot of air bourne dust away , but it still settles .. So a blow down and clean up at the end of each day is a must .
  7. So back to body work .. We left it at the polly coat stage , This was three full coats of polly wet on wet with short flash off in between .. Because this goes on so thick it leaves a heavy orange peal effect on the surface .. This is fine, we looking for film thickness not finish.. A drop coat of back, called guide coat will give us a visual gauge for when all this orange peal has been remove .. From pic above you can see how the guide coat exposes the extent of the orange peal. This can be a slow process depending on how aggressive you are with you
  8. I did mention the speed sensor, but omitted to mention the Drive Shaft.. you will need at least one later spec drive shaft with a trigger wheel on .. This is the same trigger wheel that is used for the ABS system on later Esprit .. The rear drop link hub would also need drilling to accommodate the sensor. A cheaper and alternative option would be to use an ABS trigger wheel from the front hub off later models.. This will fit your earlier hub type . You would also need to obtain the front sensor brackets or manufacture something to facilitate .. You will also need to look into wh
  9. Yes apologies to @red vtec for going slightly off topic. In the perfect world I could put together a full kit with all the loom made up to the spec required with all the peripheral controls included as required .. Various Spec's would determine which ECU stand alone unit you could use . Most manufactures like Omex have a range to choose from , but for more specialised application, Life Racing and Motec are the way to go .. The reason for this is you can put add on's to the base unit as required , this is very useful if you do upgrades at a later stage .. For eg. I moved to Life Racing
  10. You can always buy it as a kit with a start up map installed. It will come with pin out wires and wirings diagram . You then just need to cut shield and fit to your particular engine layout.. You do need to do a bit of this. There is some special adaption bits that need machining for the TPS , but not rocket science . Also a new trigger wheel and sensor mount will need fitting to the f/pulley and block .. see pic's Everything is available from stockists, with the exception of TPS mount . You just need to decide what system you want .. Once all fitte
  11. You can call me anytime, advise is always free..
  12. Uhmm all interesting points made by @NG5 and @Escape , but nothing that can not be overcome with a few changes, 'excuse the pun'. The twin oil coolers could be adapted with the original bumper, as could a charge cooler rad with the original oil cooler ... Its all about adaptation and whether you want to do a bolt in job or be a bit creative .. The fact is the body shells and chassis are very similar, but you are trying to fit part from a 'B' spec Esprit into an 'A' spec Esprit .. All of what has been discussed is the basic nuts and bolts , but the technical needs as much if not more
  13. On to the front suspension. The installation of adjustable camber top wishbones has been done to allow the correct set up for wheel size ect . When doing this you need to fit new longer ball joint bolts to allow for the 5 spacer shims along with the thicker camber plate mounts and shims. .. Anyone doing this conversion will need to make sure they get all the parts.. The new damper and spring set up is similar to the rear , but with a different custom alloy top mount .. This new top mount fits inside the original steel one when the original thick rubber ring is removed.
  14. This just needs a bit of finesse with a small scraping tool similar to a gasket scraper. Then a light touch with 1000 grit wet and dry paper.. The liners do not go tight to the side , they sit where the clean section is .. But you still need to clean it up to be sure it sits down correct .. When carefully cleaned you can coat the flat seat surface with engineers blue and then fit the new liner dry and rotate it with slight vertical pressure .. When you then remove the liner you will be able to see if the seat surface is matching the liner .. Its rare to have major issues in this are
  15. Once you have established everything is sitting square and as it should , Just use a quality spirit wipe or solvent to clean any oils from the mating surfaces.. Just prior to fitting use a tack rag to insure no small impediment has got in the area ; even the smallest particle can cause a bind during final fitting ..
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