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CHANGES

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CHANGES last won the day on June 12 2021

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About CHANGES

  • Birthday 28/09/1958

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  • Name
    Dave Lisle
  • Car
    Esprit SE, (modified)
  • Modifications
    See 412 bhp thread
  • Location
    Wolverhampton

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  1. You can see the two countersunk screw holes either side of the earth strap lug in the photo .. When Esprit have been repainted these can get disguised by paint and need cleaning out before removal . There is very little bonding to the GRP body and releases quite easy .. As part of the crash structure its strength come from the cross beam and sill anchor plate, along with the alloy door bar when closed.. In the case of this Esprit in pic, the sill anchor plate had rotted out . A rear quarter impact pushed on the door bar and the 'A' post bottom was not secure. As a result the whole structure moved forward damaging all the front arch and floor section along with the front wing .. I doubt if any of that damage will have happened if the sill anchor point was as per design spec. See Pic's
  2. @Escape Don't forget there is two small screws holding it in place through the 'A' post GRP .. i also covered this and how to do in the Oops crash bang repair thread .. on page 3. hope that is of help
  3. So moving on to the tailgate, we first start by putting a skin of filler to level out the low spots on the roof section This was flatted using the roof as an extended profile guide, flatting across the two panels .. At this stages we also fitted the capping rails with a shim under them to allow for the trim that will be fitted on completion . Whist waiting for the fillers to fully cure out , the top of the rear quarter panels were built up with GRP and then fillers to the same stage, but now all in lining up properly . Once a rough gapping had been set the next stage was to apply the glaze coat. At the same time the rear transom was re-formed to match how the tailgate sat in that area. Then a glaze coat applied . Once the glaze coat was on all the back section, it was time to move back to the front and address the bonnet . The original bonnet was long gone and a new replacement had been supplied. I thought this would be straight forward and had not paid much attention to it .. Big mistake ! . You have all heard the saying ' it fits where it touches ' . well that was just the start of it .. I fitted the new seal and put in place.. Uhmmm .. This was going to take a bit of adjusting and custom fitting same as the tailgate .. But that was just the start.. On careful inspection, It soon came apparent the mold this came from, was itself taken from a less than perfect example .. It was deformed on the outside , pushing up where the hinges mount , along with the usual dips and hollows normally found in really old panels, Not really what you expect from a new panel .. I will move onto this in the next post ..
  4. Quite a bit of work was needed to get the doors to run true and fit at all the corners without any gap height dip. As you can see from the next two pic's they were just ugly.. The door height and overall position is determined by the waste line profile . The rest has to be formed from that point . So with it now in the correct position we can finish the filling section and close those gaps up .. This is followed by the glaze coat which will refine the finish further. This is then block flatted across the gaps to make sure the gap height dip is eliminated and a true flat body line can be seen front to rear. After refining the few low spots you can see marked , the gaps can start to take shape.. We now have to leave that side and repeat on the other side, letting the fillers fully cure before finishing. Moving back to the roof and tailgate. Once the the tailgate was positioned in the best possible match, we were left with a bit of a dilemma.. In the pic;s above you can make out that the center of the t/gate roof section has sunk, signified by the shadow under the profile guide.(steel ruler), but that was not the main issue . (above)The bottom edge was fairly true along 2/3rds then ran high on the one corner .. This can be addressed at the same time as tidying up that gap. However the side height match with the top 1/4 panel were another thing altogether . We don't need a straight edge to see that.. I will get into how we overcame this in the next post.. and yes in involves more flatting...
  5. The standard fly weighs 7.2 kg with high peripheral loading. The standard 4 pot clutch assembly weighs in at 7.5 kg.
  6. Well i have been busy and this has been a lot more involved restoration than i first thought .. But here is an update with all the fiddly bits that needed doing along with a few surprises .. So lets get back to to roof where we had established a near profile with all the GRP layers . The next step was to refine profile buy sanding then applying filler , so i coated the whole panel. This is then flatted using a large plane sander until the high/low spots show. This is then recoated with another layer of filler flatted and so on, until a uniform finish with the correct profile is achieved. Once achieved I move on to the next section and allow the fillers to fully harden before progressing further .. The same process is followed on all panels , Here are two pics of the rear quarter undergoing same, First is GRP flattened then second filler stage. When the rear quarters and front wings reach the above stage I refit the doors .. They were previously fitted and shimmed , but now will need setting before then filler layers can be applied to get the flat alignments we are looking for . The straight edge shows up all the miss matches . It lets you see how the panels roll in at the gaps.. The gaps are not good.. HUGE in spots and very inconsistent.. something just had to be done to correct that .. In above pic, the first fillers were applied on the door to correct the worse sections . This was followed by the second layers which were planed in one with wing and quarter to give that flat alignment we are looking for The same job was done on the other side , getting these section to the same as the roof.. next post will show how we finished these off and matched the tailgate to the roof, quarters and transom..
  7. I think you will find Barry is referring to the alloy front pipe connection .. the Tank on the SE is steel ( if still original ) But the connection can be brazed welded or soldered back or a ne alloy replacement obtained .. The hose is there to remove any air from the system during use .. The top of the alloy pipe being the highest point in the cooling system , the bleed point . The air will go to the header tank which should always be full . By means of expansion and contraction of the fluid in the system the air will go to the expansion tank in the boot space over time . this tank should always have coolant in it which will increase and decrease with temp .. what it does is keep the header tank full at all times . se level marks on tank . This is different to the later models .. Note the CC tank is only ever to be half full.. Hope that helps .
  8. JPS #044 continuation Moving on from the GRP lay up on main damaged areas, we need to flat back to establish uniform thickness and shape.. Because the GRP is a tough substrate it take quite a bit of sanding and shaping to get right .. As i said previous we can not just attack it with a grinding disc , it needs progressive flatting.. During this process we also make sure there is no air pockets trapped between the layers .. So far i have none but they can happen and if not addressed can give you problems later .. This is the point where my processes start to differ from what was done on giorgio67 in previous post .. At this point instead of applying filler then sealers and primers , I coat the whole repaired area in a GRP tissue bridging coat .. In the case of #044 that will involve doing virtually the whole of the shell. This will provide a completely sealed and very stable layer as a foundation for the next stage. As i have said before this is not an easy substrate to flat out which is why most will avoid this stage . As you can see i am putting a grey tint in the resin . This is so i can see where has been coated while at the same time providing a guide to over flatting the finish .. Although it would not be an issue flatting through i try not to , thus maintaining a fully sealed coat ... With the grey tint you can see when its getting a bit thin in spots so time to stop. The last two pics show show that stage complete on those sections. Because of the curing time of the GRP we have to jump from section to section to keep the flow of work .. So we now move back to the roof.. This was flatted in the same way as the other repairs establishing shape and required thickness.. Then the tissue layers were applied .. Once this had cured for a few days i checked how close the profile was. This was surprisingly close . For those who have followed my previous threads , you will have seen me use this method on an original roof of similar age 'G' Esprit. On that one like most originals it had sunk over time to a worse situation than this repaired version .. The up side is the next stages should be a bit easier that the last one, requiring less shape building to get final profile .. So till next update back to more flatting .. Oh so much dust .. !!!
  9. @giorgio67 You certainly seem to have a lot of fillers to deal with .. It seems the previous repairer chose not to use GRP .. The problem with those sort of repairs is routing out the extent of the gel crack .. It will only be possible by removing all the layers in the effected area's and associated stress points then applying a stain to expose it .. This is why on jobs like 044 i just remove all gel coat on damaged panels , it minimises any risk of crack appearing in finished repair .. You will note i always grind back the badly effected areas, then replace with as close to the original thickness of panel as possible. I do this to prevent sinkage or distortion that can appear later as the composites fully dry out ... This can take months and be effected by temperatures . Are you going to apply a GRP tissue bridging coat to seal in your repair Or just prime .. ? They all have their challenges , maybe this is more what you had in mind.
  10. This week saw some more relentless sanding to remove the cracked gel coat . Unless you have done this you can not appreciate what a Naf job this is .. The problem is you can not just hack at it with a grinder , it needs a certain degree of finesse. The reason being it will form the base you will be building on , so the more even it is the easier the next stage will be .. The grey coat is the primer , the white the sealer coat , the pink is the gel coat , This all has to come off this shell as there is to much crack to localise sections .. When i looked at the lower section of this quarter panel I spotted two bad area's that I marked, but to the left of the top one you can see a spiders web gel crack appeared with the dust .. Just as well I decided to do the all .. Apart from surface gel crack this panel was quite good . The section with the GRP layer did show deep cracks from the collision flex . These were ground out and the GRP applied . On the other quarter where we showed the poor cut joint, we applied a couple of layers of the chopped matting to the inside when we did the roof .. When this had time to cure I ground out the long taper as i did with the roof , but this time down to the new inner layer .. Then using the same progressively larger sheet of matting I filled the taper back with layers to original thickness with max strength.. The same procedure was carried out on the rear panel in the two area's where the cuts had been made.. In this case because the inside was very accessible the previous repairer had applied an inner layer , unfortunately the outer layer was mainly filler and a poor joint as the other was .. So doing the same process as other sections we can restore the original strength while providing a quality substrate for the next layers .. After the roof had cured out , the former was removed from the inside . This was then sanded back to smooth the joint . This came out absolutely spot on, but i forgot to take a 'pic' before applying the weave tape over the joint , then a tissue layer over the whole area .. The inside now conforms to the original shape , it will have a light sanding when fully cured to just smooth finish ready for roof lining .. This week we also set about the front panel . This had a lot of gel crack with impact damage on both corners .. The seams on the front had cracked free directly behind the front of the headlamp bucket.. This area does not have an inner bridging layer and relies in the joints paste to hold it .. Hence the reason it split apart .. I manage to to fiddle in some inner bridging layer through the indicator hole and from the front compartment , enough to hold firm whist we ground back the outside. Then in the same way as previous we applied GRP to reshape and strengthen the corner area's .. All of these area's done so far will need extensive sanding to establish the correct shape before the next layers are applied .. So next week more sanding and dust to come along with itchy scratchy ..
  11. Its just a Type of matting used .. Here is a pic of the 3 most common i use .. left to right .. 450 chopped strand matting, tissue matting , weave strip . All these are applied with the resin coat , The weave us put in stress or edging area's , 450 matt for general build and repairs , tissue is for a finishing coat, it will all become clear as the thread progresses .
  12. No. This will not be the case . The purpose of grinding back a taper on the upper face is to replace the original thickness with as much overlap as possible for strength.. The two full layers are to create a uniform fully bonded surface .. This will need comprehensive flatting to get the smooth profile correct .. Once the flatting process and checking is done a final application of GRP will be applied with a tissue finish for refinement .. If we did a build on the inside as the outside as you were assuming , it would massively increase the thickness and weight of the panel . When the former is removed a light sanding will be done to smooth the joint area before fully assessing the situation .. I expect it will need no more than a layer of weave and possible a tissue layer to fully encase and bond the joint area . I will cover this when we get to that stage ..
  13. Thanks .. The reason they sink over time is usually because the profile is incorrect.. The slight upward curve acts like an Arche , so in the heat with expansion it should rise not sag .. However this is only fully effective if the inside profile is consistent to the outside and the thickness uniform over full area.. All logical really, but maybe overlooked in some cases..
  14. This is something that is made for the particular job.. I used sheet steel cut to the shape of the hole but 60mm wider in all directions .. I form rolled the edges which introduces a curvature close to what is needed.. I will never be exact, but dam close .. I then used the old sunroof clamping frame from the inside to add some rigidity, whilst at the same time it refined the curvature to match the roof section . Because the curvature is so slight when applying any downward force the steel can flex or invert the curve if pressing hard enough in the centre.. To prevent this happening when applying the GRP layers, a centre support was also fitted .. None of the supports were under tension, but positioned in a way to stop any flex and movement when being worked on .. The aim is to get as close to the same thickness of GRP as original , but more important is to maintain a uniform thickness over the complete panel .. Slightly thicker is preferable to thinner..
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