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  • Birthday 28/09/1958

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  • Name
    Dave Lisle
  • Car
    Esprit SE, (modified)
  • Modifications
    See 412 bhp thread
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  1. @Dan E Not everyone does , its just when done properly they do , so you see them off more on the restoration sites , where as the cheaper repaints would not go to the expense and trouble. @stephenwhyte Yes that is one of the main requirements . However i always take them off for the reasons noted earlier ..Gel crack on the joints. For some reason the door shuts is where they crack the most. With the doors in place you can not do a proper repair.. see pic.. These are the classic stress / joint areas which exposed cracks when explored .. Also the 'B' post through the catch plate area.. The 'B' post is more prevalent on pre S4 Post S4 a film to reinforce the gel across the seam has reduced or disguised the cracks there.. Unfortunately where the film stops you can still get visible cracks.. Its the nature of the beast. These cracks are not always that visible but you can find them if you look hard enough on most of the Esprit.. On this pic you can see the crack either side of where the film is , on early models it would go all the way across.. hope that answers the questions D
  2. No not really . You have to search for some of them. The odd cracks are easy to see if you know what to look for . most of the time they are in the stress points and where the two halves of the shell join... For example , pic 1 shows a small crack (visible) which does not look much in the door shut gap. .. BUT ... when you investigate and follow it to its end it goes into the font wing panel area.. when you fully chase it out you find the reason is a void left from initial joining of top and bottom halves.. See pic 2. This is not at all un common. I see it a lot on 'A' and 'B ' post joints. some like this , some just fine cracks , But all need chasing out and addressing. Next pic show the rest of the joint area on that 'A' post being sanded back.. It was then washed with a stain that would expose any cracks.. As it turned out none on the main post area. The screen pillar ( cant rail capping) area by the angle did show a 10mm crack starting so that was addressed. ( very common spot) So to answer the question , 90% that needs doing is not visibly bad. You have to look for it . All cracks will eventually show themselves, so when doing a re paint it would be silly not to investigate all the areas with a crack detection technique to make sure .... To late after.. hope that answers the question..
  3. Paint is the cover , prep is the foundation.. the cover will always settle and sink if the foundation is not done properly.. Pics of foundation. Repair , prep , polly coat, flat, re-prep, 2k prime , ....., undercoat.. etc etc. All the stuff you never see being done which is the biggest/ longest and most important part of the job.. The area's showing repairs were not obvious , just gel cracks in all the usual places... easily missed if you don't know where/ how to look .. It to late after the paint is on .. ('' you have got to love doing it, to do it'' )
  4. If you have got the one c clip out , press the bush out from the side of the remaining c clip. The remaining c clip will come out relatively easy after that. Or Barry's method.... !!!! OH and if you use this method, don't forget the fire extinguisher , plasters , and respirator, for the toxic fumes. !!! They are no worse than most.. just get them pressed out , follow procedure, NOT brute force...
  5. I started reading David Vizard's info way back when I was racing a 1962 Mini cooper 's' in the late 70's His information I followed through the many years I spent modifying engine's.. Its the little points added together I feel make the biggest gains. These as a package do work , individually not so well.. So many people when tuning engines concentrate on the bolt on or easy to do, accuracy and detail become secondary . That is where they fall down.. There is little point reading Vizard and other tuning data if you do not implement all what has been stated and proven.. More important the modifications specified in these articles are on a particular engine types/designs. As a result any tuning info should be used as a guide when exploring a different engines/designs. As owners looking to modify or improve the 900 series , the basic DV tuning and flow information is very valid. However its application will depend on your projected outcome and component compatibility. This forum has some threads that outline the simple to the extreme , specifically on the 900 series, these are worth consideration in conjunction with DV and other tuning data when undertaking modifications.. Unfortunately very few of these have dyno data to back up claims , but by cross referencing with those that do you will be able to form a basis to work from.. As far as 'Polyquad' is concerned , it would seem to have great merit in design initiative and application, but not sure where such radical changes and expense could be justified on the 900 series for a road use Esprit. A bit like the Turbulent jet ignition @Vulcan Grey pointed out.. Great idea's and design's but maybe a ''Bridge To Far'', especially when you consider the power / torque we have so far extracted without them.. Saying all that i do understand where @MrDangerUS is coming from with this . Another area of development to explore .. However I do feel we have already exceeded the peripherals of the 900 series with the power already extracted , so my immediate attention is on the drive train to handle what we have , along with a few energy saving / parasitic loss reduction idea's yet to be implemented.. After that who know what will present its self as needing ' Changes'
  6. First point of interest, Gary kemp just sold his last complete set of Nikasil liners to me a couple of weeks ago and does not think he will be having any more.. He does have 2 odd 'A' liners for partial or emergency repair needs. otherwise only second hand units. South West have a few sets on the shelf but won't sell them . they are keeping for their own use.. Nikasil liners are honed with special equipment, but as the coating is quite thin it is not advisable to re-hone , At a push you could just stay within limits if you honed an 'A' liner to a 'B' liner spec, but this will only allow for max 0.0005'' hone. In most cases an engine with 97K miles will have worn close or more than that anyway. The problem as i see it , will be the ware on the liners at the top.. This is at the point where you normally see a step in the iron liners,. What you tend to get on a Nikasil coated alloy liner is more of a dent where the piston rocks at the point of the top ring. This dent is formed by the coating wearing and the alloy deforming behind it. To the untrained eye it can look quite good, until you use bore gauge and measure properly. The down side is when these coated liners reach the end of their life and the coating just starts to ware though, They then go south very quickly. There are companies that will re-coat the liners , they do it for motor bike engines. But when they remove the old coating they can not remove the dent without going oversize. This would then require custom pistons etc etc . This is why a a lot of rebuilds now use ductile iron liners . If your pistons are in spec then all you need is a set of rings suitable for that type of liner. If your pistons are polished or worn on the skirt , you can order your iron liners a few thou tight and have them honed to spec.. This option is more for when parts are not available , personally with this engine i would just buy new. @OwenGT3 being over budget on any Esprit restoration is easy. Owners think we traders who do this for a living are too expensive , until they do it themselves. Good luck with the project, please try not to cut corners
  7. Under cover in boot . right hand side . next to the top line of relays
  8. Ohhh nasty bit of Gel crack..
  9. It should have improved grip at the rear because of the larger contact patch.. But don't get drawn into bigger is always better by just fitting it.. There may be some GEO changes that are needed to compensate for resulting differences in rear scrub angles.. Lotus when they fitted any tyre, ( dia , width , profile , compound, pressure, manufacturer. ) to a particular model would have factored in all the dynamics to ensure the best handling characteristics possible.. Changing any one of these will move out of original spec.. Interestingly just about everyone will have moved away from the original manufactured tyre fitted by Lotus due to availability, so some allowances have to be made.. I still believe the best starting point for any Esprit is the factory spec. for model tyre size etc. This should always be the default setting.. When you move off spec with wheel / tyre size, offset etc etc , then expect little differences .. Unless you are connected with your Esprit's handling like motor sport drivers are , then you will not appreciate the subtle differences which happen , and probably wont drive the Esprit aggressive enough to have any real effect.. But you should still be aware.!!! A lot of us can really feel when the tyre pressures are wrong on our Esprit, and i am not talking by a lot , just 3 or 4 lbs can be felt. This in main is due to the fact the lower pressure changes the contact patch and how it reacts in corners , in turn this also effects the slip and scrub angles. These influence the handling of the Esprit which is what you are feeling.. So in brief , be aware when you change one dimension you can influence another... This does not mean you can not benefit from changes, just that you may need to tweak a few other things to get the best from them.. For the best advice regarding wheel /tyre changes , go to a motor sport shop that sets up race cars. They will have a much better comprehension on what is needed for the changes you have made to get the best from them.. I am a big supporter of Changes , and @pureguava wheel/ tyre set up looks much improved . But we should always remember other factors may need consideration when going off spec..
  10. They are more of a spring seat sleeve that centralises the smaller dia coil over spring to the existing chassis mount. I do not have the drawings for the rear of an SE, which has different top chassis mount to the later spec eagle chassis. I do believe someone has fitted the conversion to an SE chassis by making their own sleeve seat to suit.. When you get around to it, if you are still stuck let me know . I have as SE chassis in stock , so would be able to do a drawing for suitable spring sleeve/ seat from that for the job if needed.
  11. If and when you fit the Lotac polly bush set up , you will notice a marked improvement to the ride quality as apposed to the original metalastic type. As @andydclements stated Lotus put a lot of time and money developing these which is why they make a difference. As far as dampers and springs are concerned , there are many options out there .. To be fair a lot are just OK some are short lived and basic , and lotac Bilstein expensive , but lotus developed.. After trying various, I came up with a very competitive adjustable Gaz set up of dampers and springs. This works and handles extremely well at a fraction of lotac price. However with all things adjustable (which the complete Esprit suspension is) it needs setting up. Also a set of adaption sleeve which i have the drawings for.. Most of the problems with these conversions lies with the owners who fit, but never finish... With respect to @Barrykearley his comment.. The '' raise and fiddle ,bloody adjustable things'' sums up ... Never finished.... which is usually followed by never happy.. !!!! I hear and see this so many times and despair... Very few spend the last and most important money on having their Esprit properly set up when all fitted.. I don't mean a trip to Halfords or similar tracking shops, but quality motorsport based outlets who can set ride height corner balance and do full GEO to conform with specifications.. (Circa £350--£600. 'not cheap' ) Many excuse themselves from paying the set up fee after new set ups are fitted, by saying it feels much better.... What they mean to say is it feels different... Only and Only when it is all set up correct will you appreciate how an Esprit truly handles.. @Mightymetro asked . The answer to that is never handled like a 90's car..... Maybe the ones you have tried with the worn out metalastic set up, with poor after market dampers etc, none of which have probably had anual GEO check.. then they may feel like a 90's car.. The truth is when set up correct using tried and tested equipment they handle like a super car, and always did.. Hope that helps shed light on things ..
  12. Old , decrepit , slightly frayed around the edges... but still at it.. .been semi retired for 10 years now , looking to slow it down further and only do 40 hrs a week after the next two jobs..
  13. Goodyear Tire Lettering (Set of 8 Tire Decals) - TIREGRAFICX › goodyear-tire-lettering
  14. As someone who does this work and understands the dynamic of porting i thought it may be worth me pointing out a few things the lay man is not aware of... Firstly port /manifold alignment is crucial as first move as it disrupts the air flow significantly. See Pic . This is typical on what you see with most 900 series, some worse than others .. However, you first need to ask why would Lotus leave this when they are a performance orientated car maker... The answer could well be that any disruption will assist in the fuel atomization at lower velocities.. What can not be ignored is the performance on cylinder filling (VE) will be reduced and so performance.. So it may mean the fueling system needs refining to match any porting.. We will never know why Lotus didn't address it, but i expect the cost of any refinements would be unacceptable at the time especially when you consider the performance figures were still up there .. So onto porting.. Align joints, yes , but don't barrel the port.. this will give you velocity pulses , disturb and vary the pressures on the back of the inlet valve, the port should be consistent or necking down towards the valve .. Your starting point should be calculations based on projected flow which will be influenced first of all be the Choke you intend to use within the carburetor. There will be laminar layers produced by the surface disruption within the port which can be reduced in line with projected requirements. (porting/polishing.) What you need to consider is that biggest is not best when porting.. For eg. there are some CNC machine ported heads available which look really good , but have far to big a port size for most basic road tune ups.. The reason for this is loss of velocity. For a given flow volume large ports have less velocity smaller higher. What you are looking for is the optimum for your particular engine tune .. So what is that.. Well once again it gets more involved and a secondary starting point is the exhaust system, particularly the manifold.. If you can not get it out you wont put it in. This is a subject on its own, technical points covered in threads on the turbo systems that have been developed. Fortunately there are already LCB systems available for the N/A engine which will give something to work from.. I have not studied them so can not comment, but what is important will be the length of the primary's and the expansion of the collectors. This aspect will have a big effect on the pressure wave inversion within the flow which greatly assist performance when timed correct. Back to the inlet ports .. As you can appreciate max VE is only obtainable through a balance of exhaust and inlets. Assuming the exhaust is optimum then porting size , flow , velocity, can be arrived at . Achieving the best for your engine will require each port to be as close to identical, in shape, volume and surface texture, deviations in this will create anomalies through the tuning process. Volume is easy to check using fluid measuring , same as when doing the combustion chamber, just a lot larger. Shape can be more testing. You will need to be diligent if altering the shape to achieve certain swirl benefits, otherwise following the original form using calipers and care should achieve the desired effect. The pics below shows work in progress from std (left) to porting (right) When you have arrived at the desired finish, it is always best to have it checked out on a flow bench , this will confirm you have the balance across all cylinders. if not then small mods can be done to correct.. The whole idea of porting is to get the max pulsed pressure on the back of the inlet valve prior to it opening.. This is achieved with volume and velocity. The air moving through the valve is momentarily interrupted as it closes, but its mass continues forward compressing a pressure zone on the back of the valve. When the valve opens this pressure acts like a tiny turbo forcing the air into the cylinder which aids better siphoning , This removes more of the exhaust gas , allowing more area for fresh charge , better VE. So what we can appreciate from this is the balancing act on porting , to big causes loss of velocity , to small loss of volume. Both are needed for optimum performance.. when achieved another benefit is being able to then modify cam timings and profiles to assist performance further. There are definitely gains that can be made, but the devil is in the detail . There is a reason why pro performance engine builders charge what they do .. hope that helps answer a few questions for you @Peter H. PS , any mods can only be properly quantified by dyno tuning when completed . To to honest i can not see how you could complete a porting process without full dyno set up to finish off.
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