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Posts posted by CHANGES


    23 hours ago, Hammer59 said:

    It broke off right by the connection to the tank

    I think you will find Barry is referring to the alloy front pipe connection .. the Tank on the SE is steel ( if still original )  But the connection can be brazed welded or soldered back or a ne alloy replacement obtained .. 


    23 hours ago, Hammer59 said:

    There is no explanation of this hose's purpose in the manual and wondered if anyone had any information about it. 

    The hose is there to remove any air from the system during use .. The top of the alloy pipe being the highest point in the cooling system , the bleed point . The air will go to the header tank which should always be full . By means of expansion and contraction of the fluid in the system the air will go to the expansion tank in the boot space over time .  this tank should always have coolant in it which will increase and decrease with temp .. what it does is keep the header tank full at all times . se level marks on tank . This is different to the later models .. Note the CC tank is only ever to be half full.. 

    Hope that helps .   

    • Like 1
  2. On 14/06/2021 at 22:26, Erikl said:

    Tissue Layer.. Please show a pic when you get there.  Not familiar with the terminology. 

    I am very curious because I have a large hole in the floor to repair and I am excited to use the same procedure (but with a large dash of amateur thrown in!)  Fortunately under the seat so not obvious.

    Its just a Type of matting used .. Here is a pic of the 3 most common i use ..  left to right .. 450 chopped strand matting,  tissue matting , weave strip . All these are applied with the resin coat , The weave us put in stress or edging area's , 450 matt for general build and repairs , tissue is for a finishing coat,  it will all become clear as the thread progresses . 

    DSCN1077 (2).JPG 

    • Like 1
  3. 19 hours ago, Erikl said:

    After the steel blank is removed, I am assuming a similar build up scheme on the inside?  1st layer is same size as hole, then progressively larger layers?



    No.  This will not be the case .   The purpose of grinding back a taper on the upper face is to replace the original thickness with as much overlap as possible for strength.. The two full layers are to create a uniform fully bonded surface .. This will need comprehensive flatting to get the smooth profile correct .. Once the flatting process and checking is done a final application of GRP will be applied with a tissue finish for refinement ..    If we did a build on the inside as the outside as you were assuming , it would massively increase the thickness and weight of the panel .  When the former is removed a light sanding will be done to smooth the joint area before fully assessing the situation .. I expect it will need no more than a layer of weave and possible a tissue layer to fully encase and bond the joint area .  I will cover this when we get to that stage ..       

    • Like 2
  4. 11 hours ago, Steve4012 said:

    Hi Dave. Very interesting as always. The black profile section underneath the sunroof hole. Did you make that as well or is it a flexible sheet that can be encouraged to form the correct roof curvature from underneath?

    This is something that is made for the particular job..  I used sheet steel cut to the shape of the hole but 60mm wider in all directions ..  I form rolled the edges which introduces a curvature close to what is needed.. I will never be exact, but dam close .. I then used the old sunroof clamping frame from the inside to add some rigidity, whilst at the same time it refined the curvature to match the roof section .   Because the curvature is so slight when applying any downward force the steel can flex or invert the curve if pressing hard enough in the centre..   To prevent this happening when applying the GRP layers, a centre support was also fitted .. None of the supports were under tension, but positioned in a way to stop any flex and movement when being worked on ..DSCN1028.JPG

    The aim is to get as close to the same thickness of GRP as original , but more important is to maintain a uniform thickness over the complete panel .. Slightly thicker is preferable to thinner..     

    • Like 1
  5. 8 hours ago, drdoom said:

    The "repair" of the damaged body rear 1/4 as revealed by DL seems to validate that most are of the opinion, " if it ain't metal it's got no strength ". Therefore one is free as a lark to plaster away over any joint with whatever muck seems handy. D

    This sadly is so common and as I said in the recent OOP's repair thread, once the paint is on the customer does not get to see what or how its been achieved  ..  Hopefully these threads will expose the short cuts made for profit and enable the owners to be more knowledgeable should they be unfortunate enough to need a repair . 

    Acceptable methods will vary from one repair shop to another , which is why I always try to gather as many photo's for the customer whilst doing the job . They can then share the involvement and better understand what has been done and why ..     

    • Like 1
  6. 4 hours ago, stevefh said:

    Thanks for replies so far.Dave can’t tell from your photos, is your Clarke crane, 2000 ie  2 tonne , 1000 ie 1 tonne ,1000 LR ie long reach or the oddly named CFC 100 also 1 tonne?

     I have had it so long that its not a current model, however , it is the fold away type like the CFC 100 .  

    Mine has a  total length is 57'' at full stretch with the jib as far as it will go out on the boom .( hole 4) .    This is measured on the flat top section from the cranked point.. 

    The distance you need to span when lifting engine and box together  is circa 48'' .. this is 4'' passed the bell housing to engine joint, overlapping the engine side  .. with 1'' clearance to the bumper .. ( the bumper to back of the engine block is 43'' )  The the remaining 11'' is taken up with allowance for the protruding  hydraulic lift mechanism.. ( with a small cushion left.). 

    I also use the CLL500 which helps spread the load .see pic . 

    I have never had any issues moving an engine and box around on this crane.  I only split the engine and box in situ, when just the box needs removing ..  If you need the engine out it is easier to remove the lot in one go ..   

    I hope this give you all the data you need to make the right choice. Sorry i can not be more specific as to part numbers , but you should be able to measure a CFC100 at your local machine mart to make comparison .. If you do this remember to allow for the encroachment of the lift mechanism at bumper height, see pic 3 by the protection sponge .. 


  7. 16 minutes ago, Sparky said:

    Cheers old bean.  And thanks to you and @CHANGES for listening to my wild ramblings.

    Thanks for sharing..:coffee:  best puzzle for a long time .. Two days of stress to find out your first diagnosis was spot on. :rtfm: I think we will put that in the memory box under experience to remember..   The plus side is all the other faults you found and fixed during the search .. The customer is going to be all made up when he gets it back ..   :animier:

    well done , pure dedication .. time to relax  :wine:

    • Thanks 1
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