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CHANGES

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Posts posted by CHANGES

  1. I have a set of these wheels surpluss to my needs  .  These are the V8 wheels which are the same size as the S4s ...  They are 17 inch front and 18 inch rear ..    They can be supplied with center caps..   I would like £2000.oo GBP .. but open to sensible offers .   

    You can contact me on the forum message , on my mobile 07889 647406, or e-mail ... [email protected] 

    AWI Wheels 005.JPG 

    AWI Wheels 002.JPG

  2.  

    16 hours ago, drdoom said:

    Interesting point, DL. I did not find screws when tearing down my posts but it's perfectly sensible that this would be highly advisable for the sake of assured location. Perhaps I've forgotten, perhaps Lotus did use these and I missed spotting them. Will take a look at the shell later today.

    Cheers  

    You can see the two countersunk screw holes either side of the earth strap lug in the photo ..  When Esprit have been repainted these can get disguised by paint and need cleaning out before removal .   There is very little bonding to the GRP body and releases quite easy ..  As part of the crash structure its strength come from the cross beam and sill anchor plate, along with the alloy door bar when closed..  In the case of this Esprit in pic, the sill anchor plate had rotted out . A rear quarter impact pushed on the door bar and the 'A' post bottom was not secure. As a result the whole structure moved forward damaging all the front arch and floor section along with the front wing ..  I doubt if any of that damage will have happened if the sill anchor point was as per design spec.   See Pic's

    DSCN0728.JPG

     

    DSCN0349.JPG

     

    DSCN0630_LI.jpg

    DSCN0698.JPG

    • Like 1
  3. On 10/02/2022 at 17:04, drdoom said:

    I found that knocking at them smartly from the side with a block of wood and heavy hammer would eventually overcome the original bond. One wants to deliver the impact force as shear to the assembly joint. This did not tear out any GRP of consequence in my case. After this, clean the posts of all corrosion thoroughly and paint with underside to be bonded masked ( raw steel for the bond ). Final stages of prep are to strip clean and coarse sand to key both surfaces thoroughly. Seek out the best structural epoxy adhesive to reattach and take great care in seeing that the posts are well located as the adhesive sets. Excess epoxy extruding out the fore and aft post edges will confirm the joint is well covered and improve certainty in terms of collision safety, as I see it. 

    Cheers  

    @Escape Don't forget there is two small screws holding it in place through the 'A' post GRP ..    i also covered this and how to do in the Oops crash bang repair thread .. on page 3.

    hope that is of help 

     

    • Like 2
  4.  

    23 hours ago, Hammer59 said:

    It broke off right by the connection to the tank

    I think you will find Barry is referring to the alloy front pipe connection .. the Tank on the SE is steel ( if still original )  But the connection can be brazed welded or soldered back or a ne alloy replacement obtained .. 

     

    23 hours ago, Hammer59 said:

    There is no explanation of this hose's purpose in the manual and wondered if anyone had any information about it. 

    The hose is there to remove any air from the system during use .. The top of the alloy pipe being the highest point in the cooling system , the bleed point . The air will go to the header tank which should always be full . By means of expansion and contraction of the fluid in the system the air will go to the expansion tank in the boot space over time .  this tank should always have coolant in it which will increase and decrease with temp .. what it does is keep the header tank full at all times . se level marks on tank . This is different to the later models .. Note the CC tank is only ever to be half full.. 

    Hope that helps .   

    • Like 1
  5. On 14/06/2021 at 22:26, Erikl said:

    Tissue Layer.. Please show a pic when you get there.  Not familiar with the terminology. 

    I am very curious because I have a large hole in the floor to repair and I am excited to use the same procedure (but with a large dash of amateur thrown in!)  Fortunately under the seat so not obvious.

    Its just a Type of matting used .. Here is a pic of the 3 most common i use ..  left to right .. 450 chopped strand matting,  tissue matting , weave strip . All these are applied with the resin coat , The weave us put in stress or edging area's , 450 matt for general build and repairs , tissue is for a finishing coat,  it will all become clear as the thread progresses . 

    DSCN1077 (2).JPG 

    • Like 1
  6. 19 hours ago, Erikl said:

    After the steel blank is removed, I am assuming a similar build up scheme on the inside?  1st layer is same size as hole, then progressively larger layers?

     

     

    No.  This will not be the case .   The purpose of grinding back a taper on the upper face is to replace the original thickness with as much overlap as possible for strength.. The two full layers are to create a uniform fully bonded surface .. This will need comprehensive flatting to get the smooth profile correct .. Once the flatting process and checking is done a final application of GRP will be applied with a tissue finish for refinement ..    If we did a build on the inside as the outside as you were assuming , it would massively increase the thickness and weight of the panel .  When the former is removed a light sanding will be done to smooth the joint area before fully assessing the situation .. I expect it will need no more than a layer of weave and possible a tissue layer to fully encase and bond the joint area .  I will cover this when we get to that stage ..       

    • Like 2
  7. 11 hours ago, Steve4012 said:

    Hi Dave. Very interesting as always. The black profile section underneath the sunroof hole. Did you make that as well or is it a flexible sheet that can be encouraged to form the correct roof curvature from underneath?

    This is something that is made for the particular job..  I used sheet steel cut to the shape of the hole but 60mm wider in all directions ..  I form rolled the edges which introduces a curvature close to what is needed.. I will never be exact, but dam close .. I then used the old sunroof clamping frame from the inside to add some rigidity, whilst at the same time it refined the curvature to match the roof section .   Because the curvature is so slight when applying any downward force the steel can flex or invert the curve if pressing hard enough in the centre..   To prevent this happening when applying the GRP layers, a centre support was also fitted .. None of the supports were under tension, but positioned in a way to stop any flex and movement when being worked on ..DSCN1028.JPG

    The aim is to get as close to the same thickness of GRP as original , but more important is to maintain a uniform thickness over the complete panel .. Slightly thicker is preferable to thinner..     

    • Like 1
  8. 8 hours ago, drdoom said:

    The "repair" of the damaged body rear 1/4 as revealed by DL seems to validate that most are of the opinion, " if it ain't metal it's got no strength ". Therefore one is free as a lark to plaster away over any joint with whatever muck seems handy. D

    This sadly is so common and as I said in the recent OOP's repair thread, once the paint is on the customer does not get to see what or how its been achieved  ..  Hopefully these threads will expose the short cuts made for profit and enable the owners to be more knowledgeable should they be unfortunate enough to need a repair . 

    Acceptable methods will vary from one repair shop to another , which is why I always try to gather as many photo's for the customer whilst doing the job . They can then share the involvement and better understand what has been done and why ..     

    • Like 1
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