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Artie

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Everything posted by Artie

  1. Je pistons from JAE here stateside and the liners were original, just stripped and re-nikasiled to new spec
  2. John, HAHA! Good Show mate! I don't even have photoshop on my laptop! Anyway, cometic makes a multilayer steel gasket that is thicker than the stock gasket, but as I remember, maybe "trackmagic" has tried it on the G body car he has with an Stevens engine in it and it leaked at the oil passage....SO, I won't be trying that! Dave, Although I had considered taking the engine apart and inspecting it and checking everything myself, I am not that versed in engine building! I paid the shop a hefty sum to build the engine correctly and expect just that! The engine has not been assembled completely to my satisfaction, the head gasket should not be popping every 400 miles! I had hit 1.6 bar of boost on the original engine before the build on numerous occassions with the same ecm and turbo and injectors without failure over the course of 4 years and never popped a head gasket! The rebuild is plagued by this phenomenon, so I can only surmise one thing.....They missed something! That being said, I contacted them and we discussed it and they agreed to pull it apart, let me witness the measurements and proceed. If the nip or any other item is off due to their negligence, then the tidying up is on them! I know they know what they are doing, they just made a minor error, so I'll let them sort it out since I paid for it! I trust they will do the right thing! If this happens again, then perhaps I'll take it in my own hands and figure it out, but I'm not ready to do that at this point. I will keep you all posted on the findings, hopefully by the end of the week! Artie
  3. Okay, Okay! All the talk about 400 plus HP over in the chat room with Dave et al, I have gotten remotivated to pull the lunk out of my car again! Finally got the last bits off tonight and yanked the heap out! She sits anxiously in the back of my truck, ready to go back to the builder to re CHECK everything again to ensure they didn't miss something! I will be fitting a high tension timing belt this time and am having the water pump refurbed AGAIN, to ensure no leaks upon reinstallation! I hope to have a satisfactory report from the builder hopefully by weeks end to determine a possible cause for these repeated head gasket failures! Here are a few pics just to prove I have the engine out and ready to get cracking! Hopefully this will be the last extraction for a while! Artie EngineRandR.bmp engineRandR2.bmp engineRandR3.bmp
  4. Well the first page holds the injector size at 800's and he mentioned ditching the secondary injectors so my guess is 4 800cc mains and no secondaries.....
  5. I would like to add into this discussion just for additional context, in Lucas' defense, we Americans often see "inflated" correction factors worldwide in claims for HP. We have become a "skeptical" lot in general whenever hp numbers are posted, especially as BHP figures. What we usually look at are performance figures and daily repeatabilty. One can build an engine, attach it to a dyno and tune it within a milisecond of its death to produce a "one time only" number! The wheel hp number is where the rubber meets the road! Is thisgoing to be a repeatable number or a dyno "max hp" number? My FD will make well over 450 to the wheels, but that would be a MAX number that I wouldn't ever attempt to try and repeat with the fuel system in place! So, that being said, this is how discoveries are made and fallacies are broken or confirmed on open discussion forums. I, nor Lucas, intend on offending anyone, we are just very inquisitive as to the detailed picture, that at this point, is still very blurry and there is more that needs to be elucidated to bring it all together. Hope that helps everyone understand where we are coming from. Artie
  6. Id very much like to know the details! I have considered on numerous occasions to scrap the delco ecm, however, I haven't been able to keep the head on the new engine long enough to dyno the new setup to even get a reasonable comparison to before and after. I am very familiar with what a stellar ecm can do to change a car as I have a track fd with a standalone ecm and it makes almost 60 more hp than the tuned stock(ie chipped) ecm at one less psi of boost! That being said, I'm just really trying set some respectable landmarks for this engine that aren't often repeated, as interest in this thread have shown! I have always believed it could be done, but has eluded me from even attaining a paltry level of power from such a "big" engine and a stage 3 turbo! Even though my chargecooler is stock sized, I have a huge magetic drive water pump from Johnson, and a 2"thick custom 3 pass aluminum CC Rad up front much better than the original AC condensor unit that was there. I'm all for sharing knowledge and helping everyone achieve great numbers, but having run into such difficulties with mine, it seems difficult to do! Thanks and I look forward to some more details and info! Artie
  7. Wow! I too would LOVE to know the details! First off, How in the world did the head gasket stay intact at this level? I've invested well over $15000 USD just on my engine parts and build two years ago and keep blowing the head gasket! Any pics of the ECM installed in the car? I see the delco in the pics you posted. Also, I see you posted that the fuel system is upgraded, yet still running the stock plastic formed lines to and from the fuel filter? I feel there are pieces being left out Changes. There are a few of us here stateside that have invested significant time and money to produce decent power and have more or less failed to meet our expectations. I am no slouch when it comes to building quick sportscars and quite frankly am skeptical of what you have posted. NO disrespect meant, have just been building my car for the last 5 years and have come no where near this rating! 308 Wheel Hp is the best I've managed on the old stock worn out engine mind you! I have posted many if not all of the details of my build. So my question is this....Did they use this magical ECU with the engine on the dyno? But it seems you still have the Delco in the car. Also, the heat dissapation is important, but Lotus designed the stock sized intercooler to handle short blasts, easily long enough to do a dyno pull then allow time to cool etc. You can ice the intercooler as we usually do when we dyno our turbo FD's and other turbo cars locally. BUT, making the cooling more efficient doesn't allow you to physically change the ambient capacity! If the intercooler you are using, which is very nice, would love to put one on soon, it won't get the charged air cooler than ambient so I don't really consider that a huge factor when dyno'ing a car. Lucas has spent copious amounts of time, money and effort on his car, and I am POSITIVE that his intercooler is working correctly! Both of us are just very intrigued by the output you have claimed and are very interested in the details of EVERYTHING used to achieve this! Artie
  8. Jason, Is it the same as the SE? I replaced mine last year and it was a very cheap and easily had replacement.....That being said, installing it in it's proper location under the passenger side dash is not an easy task for a 245 lb monkey like myself! It was a bugger! Got it installed, however, and promptly broke a shift cable! Then a head gasket! So I never even got to enjoy the car last summer! Artie
  9. gotcha! I'll be puling the engine tomorrow once again, hopefully for the final time! Lol! I have new ARP head studs and a new gasket. Ever considered O-Ringing the head? I'm not happy with this "head gasket" failure every 400 miles! Artie
  10. Artie

    SilverRX2

    From the album: 89 Esprit Turbo

  11. Artie

    SilverRX1

    From the album: 89 Esprit Turbo

  12. Must be an american thing! I too, like Paul, had a guy ask me, laughing mind you, "is that a kit car" to which I responded about his Chevy silverado "is that a kit truck?" He spit some snuff on the ground and looked at the car again, then got back in his truck without saying another word. If you are going to ask a stupid question, expect a stupid answer.....Or stupid question in return! Artie
  13. What turbo are you going to use? Stock? Also, any thoughts on O-Ringing the liners or head for a better squish? Artie
  14. My speedo cable broke at the speedo itself! The square inner cable end had disintegrated and thus nothing worked! If the cable is broken, then nothing will register...Trip/Odo/speedo! I would venture to say the speedo cable is snapped/broken at the speedo. Artie
  15. Well, as you increase boost, the wastegate door is kept closed longer so the controller was holding the door closed then allowing it to open slightly and keeps adjusting open/closed to hold boost. It may be easier at a lower setting to just "crack" open the wastegate a little bit and "hold" it there to maintain 13 whereas 15 is closer to the max efficiency of the compressor/exducer so therefore having to adjust more. Just a theory but seems plausible Artie
  16. Definitely looks better Lucas. The power seems reasonable for slightly more than 1 bar. You may try a slightly hotter spark plug to give you a little more burn for the dip in torque. The Afr is a bit lean on the 15psi run, maybe try a bit of octane booster next time, Lucas(what a coincidence) brand booster seems to work best in my experience, but I always use 2 bottles since octane boosts points in the tenths position. Ie, if the octane booster claims a 6-8 point increase and you fill up with 92 then you will only see about 92.6 to 92.8! Not 100 as mislead by most labels. Also, how do you like the controller? Is it holding the boost steady or does it still drop off? Artie
  17. Well Lucas, my first head gasket let go at about 1.9 bar. however, this one let go at less than 1 bar. I am thinking that the engines don't like more than 1.3 or so. I suppose I'll have to keep the RX7 as the ass kicking car and the Esprit as the panty dropping car! Artie
  18. Yay Mark! Good to find you getting ready to start up again! I too will be pulling the engine out of mine, although I wish I was putting her back together from a fresh paintjob! Artie
  19. Roger! Refer to any of my last 2 years of topic posts about what can go wrong next! LOL! Slowly sorting out what I hope is the last in a long litany of failures and catastrophe's with my beloved Esprit! Hopefully the engine will be coming out in the coming weeks. 1/2 way pulled! Keep hopes up, your problems could be far more serious, as my case is! Best, Artie
  20. There could be a simple issue such as the vacuum line going to the fuel pressure regulator has come undone. Or the line to the map sensor has come off. Check the fitting under the fuel rail that comes off of the intake manifold(not the plenum box) and follow the hard black plastic line to the map sensor which resides behind the ECM on the transom behind the fuel fill. You will need to remove the cover piece that covers the ecm first to access the map sensor. Check all of the vacuum check valves, these could have failed, allowing boost get into the vacuum system and foul the vacuum signals to certain solenoids. I'd start with vacuum lines and perhaps take a look at the intake plenum gasket to be sure it's intact also. Any work done recently where you would have removed any of the plenum, or it's nipple? I suspect a vacuum leak/source. Just a thought. Also, If you replaced the knock sensor and tightened it too tightly, it will pick up all sorts of anomolous knock counts! You can wrap it in teflon tape to dampen some of the erroneous noise it's picking up from the block. These knock sensors are very notorious to be supersensitive, the GM LT1 guys complain about them all of the time. Heck, most of them put silicone into the knock sensor fitting then install the sensor! Artie
  21. The horn rim protrudes 3/16" but the box is in the basement drying so I can't measure it.
  22. Made some progress today on the removal. I have the front water lines, vacuum line, exhaust bracket and decklid to remove, then I can pull the engine out. I'll hopefully pull it out sometime this week. Once I get the engine over to the builder and have a status report of what we find. Hoping to have her back up and running by the end of April, in time for summer! Artie
  23. Sorry Chaps for the lengthy delay. I have not yet pulled the engine from the Lotus. I cannot reach the bolts on my exhaust manifold completely in order to render an "in situ" extraction of the cylinder head. I will exhume the lunk hopefully in the near future. Track season starts in about 4 weeks and I have to still run another 1000 miles through my freshly built FD to have it broken in for track duty. I will keep everyone posted on my findings. The last head gasket failed at the 1 oclock position on cylinder 4 when facing the engine from the US drivers side. It was a very small pinhole failure. Water was being burned through the cylinder and out the exhaust. This time it is exhibiting the same exact symptoms. I have never built or disassembled a cylinder head, so I am not sure I am willing to take a stab at this as my "first attempt". As for head studs yielding, that is a concern that I have. The cylinder head has been off the engine 2 times since I have owned the car, once for the engine build 2 years ago, and once for the reinstallation of the new head gasket which was a stock goetze gasket from JAE. Now the head will come off again, so I have purchased a set of ARP head studs from JAE to factor in the possibility that the original head studs have yielded. I do know that the head had been rebuilt back in 1999 with new valves due to a cam belt failure according to service records I have from the PO. This means the head studs have been torqued 3 times at least. The cylinder liners are essentially brand new, they were stripped of their out of spec nikasil 2 years ago and completely re-nikasiled and then final diamond honed to match the JE forged aluminum pistons I bought also from JAE. I am told that the head gaskets aren't a failure prone area for these engines and my boost doesn't climb above 1.2 kg/Cm2. this isn't even 1.2 bar its about .4 psi less. Even if the head had been skimmed 2 times in it's life time, it wouldn't change the static compression by more than .25. Artie
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