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  1. s2mikey


  2. Ahhh - the module side is male. The female side is where Id do this then. So, top bridge the primary pump, I simply "connect" pins 1 and 5 together on the connector? Pardon my ignorance on this issue - Im quite electrically challenged.
  3. I agree about replacing parts getting costly but this particular unit has to be in question due to what tests have been done already. It does more than just over speed detection too on my '87. I will try your described test tonight and see what happens. When you say bridge, what exactly do you mean? Take the female connector(the one that runs back into the relay box of the car) and then run a jumper wire from the WG slot to the pink/purple slot on the same connector(female side).
  4. I am going to order a new OSM today. We have done enough tests to make it worthwhile to replace this unit. It is paramount to getting those pumps turned on and if its busted and "senses" an issue it wont power the pumps up at all no matter what else we do. Thats where Im at
  5. We have done much of this already but I will retest to confirm. The fact that we get +12v at the fuel pump fuses pretty much gaurantees we got +12 from the relays and over speed module since they are "upstream" from the fuses, I believe. Let me ask you this - I did find out that the Overspeed module kills the ground to the pumps if it detects a failure conditon. So, if it was a bad unit, then is it possible that what happens is as I crank the car this module is killing the ground to the pumps due to the module being defective? Just wasnt sure if that made sense or not. I assumed that s
  6. Ahhh - I explained it wrong then. When we ran the wires directly to the pumps from the fuse sockets the pumps did NOT run. The only way they run is to be wired directly(both ground and power) to a 12v source, like the battery. If they are in any way connected to the cars circuitry, no go deal. That how we figured the pumps themselves are good. I also know that the grounding is good, we verified that too. But, the overspeed module does kill ground if it senses an issue so if its bad then it could be causing them not to run. See why Im going cookoo here? Thanks for your help thoug
  7. You're gonna kill me...but didnt our wiring test bypass those connectors since we went straight from the fuel pump fuse sockets to the pumps?? If so, then it has to be something else, right? If not, Im an idiot and apologize
  8. Whoa - so the overspeed cant be it either then? Geesh.... we are running out of things to check! See why Im stumped here? The only items left between the pumps and the fuses are the CBHC and the PHC and we bypassed them. Now what do I do?
  9. That makes sense.... but, we did do a test the other night and ran wires directly from the fuse sockets to the pumps, didnt we bypass that CBHC connector by doing so? And, if thats the case, does the Overspeed module still end up in the chain? If it does, then I need to get a new one of those to at least eliminate it.
  10. Ok - thanks. Honestly, I dont think any of that is it. Here is where we are at: We are getting 12v at the fuse sockets and ran wires directly from those to the power leads on each fuel pump. Wont start. nd, we arent getting 12v at the pumps. There really isnt anything between the fuses and pumps though..... this is crazy. I dont even know what to do at this point.
  11. Great, thanks. Where in the manual are these connectors shown? Where are they located on the car?
  12. Great - I wonder if they are talking about the connector that plugs into the over speed module? There are two others in that area that could be it though. They are not labeled and m,y service manual doesnt help or depict a photo of them. Hmmm... Ill have to check this out further. Hopefully I find something and can post back saving some other owners of HCi cars a headache!
  13. Thanks for the replies. Yes, its the coil box harness connector all right. I may have found it - under the carpeted shelf over the RH side fuel tank by the cahrcoal cannister. There are a few conectors there though. Ill have to investigate. And, yes, I may have a ground problem since neither pump gets any power at key on or during cranking. It would be very odd for both to have a bad connection..... but they do share a ground, I believe. Ill check that too.
  14. My '80 thru '87 service manual on page 65 section LD shows that the fuel pumps are connected at some point to whats called a CBHC connector. The problem is that I cant find it! Its not in m yparts manual and they dont show you were it is. This is one of the last things I need to test to determine why my fuel pumps will NOT run unless powered by a seperate power supply. Weve verified voltage throughout most of the system. The fuel pump relays, the rpm relay, the inertia switch, fuel pump fuses, and even that pesky overspeed module appear to be sending the correct 12 volts while cranking so
  15. I suggest replacing the clutch slave too. They very often go at about the same time and this ensures a completly redone hydrauilic system for your clutch. And, if the master crapped out(bad seals, letting in air, etc) then it will send dirt and junk into the lines which eventually will make it to the slave cylinder and potentially ruin it as well. Also, make sure to change out the clutch fluid EVERY year no matter what. Cheap insurance and almost gaurantees no crap gets into your system.
  16. I have Continental Extreme Contact DWS tires on my '87 and love them. I have aftermarket rims so my tire choices are far and wide compared to stock. These tires are more "tame" than a true z-rated tire but thats what I wanted. They ride great, are quiet and will last longer than a few driving seasons too. They have 85% of the grip of my old z-rated tires but are 100% better in every other area.
  17. Hey Luc - Teflon is probably a good choice. I used that stuff on some of my ATVs for squeaky parts and it worked good.
  18. Me too. As long as peoples cars are running within cpes then thats good.
  19. I believe you - but isnt 5psi a little light? Can others confirm what they are getting at idle? Am I in trouble with 25/30psi at idle? I do have a manual and will confirm but....hmmm.....?????
  20. Thanks, Scottt - yes, my manual has that section but I cant quite figure out what they are getting at. Im gonna crawl under there this weekend and try again. The other possibiolity Ive been told is that the master cylinder rod is in the wrong connection point. There two under there and one is labled "C" for clutch and one is labeled "B" for brake. Mine might be in the brake connection!
  21. OK gents, did some searching and found a few posts here and there with a little info but I want to know more about adjusting the clutch pedal on my '87 HC. basically, there is too much play at the top of the pedal - like an inch or even more. Thats too much, IMO. The car got a new master and slave late last year so the hydraulics are new. Bleeding was done properly and Im pretty sure there isnt any air in there. My car doesnt seem to have a pedal return spring which apparently some cars do have so that doesnt help. Me and a good buddy(who is much more svelte than me) crawled in the foot
  22. Really? 5psi at idle? Hmmm... even after a hard run when I let her cool down before shutoff it never seems to get much below 25 to 30psi. Guess all the engines are slightly different. Different oils will add to the variation too I suppose.
  23. This sounds like a plan. Even if the car ran at 95-97 degrees allthe time, nothing bad would come of it. The key is to ensure the cooling system is working properly as a whole: maintaining pressure, turning on fans, water pump spins freely, etc, etc. If all that is good then you are good. If she starts to run at the next notch past the 90 mark(which is 105) or higher - then you have a problem!
  24. Honestly, your numbers look pretty good to me. 25lbs to 30lbs @ idle and roughly 60lbs(between the 50 and 75 line on the gauge) is pretty average, IMO. I think you are in great shape.
  25. Hey Ben - I cheated and looked under the car. If idling, you can "feel" a brief voltage drop too. Kind of like whe you turn on power-hungry equipment around the house and the lights dim for a half second Mike6 is right too - to get solid boost performance, the car has to be warmed to at least 90 degrees.
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