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  1. hi everyone fwiw, I just installed a device from auto-loc; the WC1000 One Touch Express window controller. It's one touch (which gets mixed reviews from me) BUT its all solid state (MOSFET), solves the relay, burnt contact, and window load/speed issues definitively and its simple. About $35 per side. All wiring changes occur next to motor. Basically you just "shim it into the existing circuit. I rivetted the contoller inside the door panels. Hope this helps. For me, it was perfect, as I've got no experience with things regards to all, Jim C 91SE Sacramento Minor change; should read (MOSFET?) I don't know exactly whats inside it....
  2. hey Paul; I've taken the fan assembly off of my 91 SE. Two good motors, three good blades. Anyone interested? Jim in Sacramento [email protected] (not a business)
  3. Forget the mike too much trouble. I just purchased a clip-on transducer (about $20 US) designed for tuning instruments, available from dozens of internet merchanges and have every reason to think it will be even better than a mike and simpler to set up. Just clip it to the top run of the belt. My engines apart at the moment so it'll be a week before I can give it a try. Anyone tried that yet?
  4. I wasn't referring to the noise; I was referring to the potential that you'll get your engine drenched at some point and crack something. (sizzle = rapid cooling) Perhaps I'm off base; if so someone let me know please, but I'm definitely not taking my car out in the rain (or even in the possibility of rain) while its in this condition.
  5. Hi Joey; I recently purchased a 91SE with this mod already in progress to remove the rear glass to a 94 like setup. the glass was gone and the area had been glassed over. I'm going to finish the work, but if I cold reverse it I certainly would. Removing the glass creates an immediate rain exposure problem for the car. The first time you hear the rain sizzling on your engine you'll know what i mean. I've tried a 94 engine cover on the car which has some drainage surfaces designed to deal with an open back deck (to some degree) but the cover prevents the rear deck from coming down due to a collision with the lift support. Probably could be rearranged to work, but the louvres on the 94 deck were themselves somewhat restrictive and so I have doubts whether the 94 engine cover will deal with the amount exposure that would occur. My understanding is that the glass back was a slippery design if nothing else, I think its a can of worms. Better to explore replacing the rear deck and engine cover imo. I've got the car going over to a glass man today to talk about the possibility to make a lightweight rear deck of a design to once again completely shield the engine from rain and reduce my ballast. Want to buy a modded rear deck? B)
  6. Greetings everyone; Recall that my car arrived with empty door handle holes cut for flush handles. I have found a very trustworthy composites body man to feather and fill those oversize holes and recut them for standard 91 handles. The question: where to put those new holes? I can take a pretty good shot at locating them by inspection, seeing the trouble we're going to, it would be nice if I could get the stock location first hand. Anyone in a position to make a couple measurements? the best scenario I suppose would be if someone their doors apart and could measure to the actual cutout, but otherwise if someone could just measure the offset of their stock handles to the nearest door seam and the body crease directly above... Thanks to all!
  7. Thanks Everyone; I assume for our purposes deionized = distilled? So its the Sillicates causing the build up.. the car did have green coolant when I purchased, I wouldn't doubt that it had green stuff (the convenient stuff) running in its veins for a while. I just put Peak (Gold) which may be a G05 Anti-freeze in it as I wasn't doing a total flush and I understand it compatible witht the US green coolent, although I confess I don't understand what causes the silicate gel problem. I gather the system has to be totally empty in order to retrifit to a different coolant. So can I expect that if put the proper coolant in play and change it regularly that the excess silicates deposits will eventually be drawn back out of the system? Any recommendation on specific treatments or release agents appreciated. thanks, j
  8. Hello All; I've had fill cap off the charge cooler today and it is plenty dirty in there. I've also seen crud/corrosion and general gunk in the radiator transfer pipe. I guess that I'll find the same situation in the rest of the engine cooling system (?) I've had the radiator cored. Any recommendations on how aggressively clean the rest of these systems out? I expect the so-called "power flush" is one of my options but I'm wondering what chemicals I can safely use to clean this baby out. I'm equally wondering what (if anything) I can do to prevent this from happening again. I'm filled with dread at the thought of trashing all the aluminum tubing and such. I thought I saw this topic posted somewhere... I've searched the forum, perhaps not well enough. Thanks everyone. Jim 91 SE (brutti ma buono)
  9. I'm not surprised to verify that my 91 SE (I think I'll name it Frankenstein) in addition to having a chassis replacement, also has non-matching engine serial numbers; the current engine being produced one month before the engine serial# indicated under the bonnet. Is there a way to derive the associated VIN of a given engine serial Number? It might give me insight into baby Frank which is by the way apart in my garage, with all of its front end down and radiators out to various shops. A word on my project status: I've been poring through all the partslists and so on (very educational) The main radiator has been cored and tested. Electric CC pump kit has arrived from WC Engineering. New manifold should arrive at any moment. The driver side oil cooler is out being heliarced (I've got my fingers crossed) as the oil fitting was so insanely tight (not just tight, but frozen solid) that I tore the bung off the cooler getting it out. The driver side Headlight pod mechanism failed. On inspection, I discovered the nifty fastener conservancy program which resulted in the headlight knee bone being connected to bonnet hinge leg bone. But I also discovered that the heart of my problem was 4 worn out spherical flange bearings (what the partlists calls a Pod pivot ball joint) Clearly this little set up was not intended to take side loads and because proper spacers were not installed, it took those loads and failed. Pictures available. Haven't check for lotus part availability yet, but have checked for alternative parts and have failed so far. Discovered one failed radiator fan (physical damage) and replaced all three with aftermarket fans. Discovered a badly installed Fan on switch, which I removed. Shocks have been replaced (monumentally earth changing improvement) for the car. Found SS brake and clutch lines, Clutch cylinder leaking a bit at the pedal. Discovered that the Aluminum Charge cooler inlet/outlet hose pipe assembly had fallen to the pavement and had been ground down to the point of leaking. (alright, I admit it was my fault. we got those new shocks on, took it out for a dose of road endorphin and it fell off during a curvy bit) Why was it designed with a pipe segment? Conforming to tight quarters? More heat transfer? At any rate I think I'll cut out the ground portion, put a bead at the new end and put on a longer set of hoses back to the back bone. All ideas welcome.. alternatives? I suspect the original part is wierd to find, but I haven't asked anyone yet. Tore a non-functioning HKS valve controller out of it the car. Nosed around on the relay rack and found an empty relay slot which when populated will cause the engine to turn OK, I dont' get that at all. test fitted the air dam no the front of the car. Also discovered that the foam impact absorbers are not on the car. The air box feed hose from the right side scoop was missing altogether, so that the system was sucking from the air box behind the quarter window and that box was getting it from wherever. So I made the ram air mod. and more. But those are the highlights thus far. One pressing question: the car will have been down for 3-4 weeks before I fire it up again. The oil system has been drained as well. I really dont want to start it dry. Best way to prelube the engine? Also looking into a regular prelube system, and also read an interesting article about wiring the ignition such that the ecu is disabled until oil pressure comes up, so that when you crank the engine it cranks without firing until some oil pressure arrives and then fires. Sounds interesting. thoughts? At the risk of sounding like I'm in a twelve step meeting, thanks everyone for reading. I couldn't do it without you all. but I love this car...
  10. Hello everyone; We took the front end of the car apart this week, all radiators and so on. We got everything off OK *except* the upper oil line on the passenger side was frozen so badly, I thought someone put locktite on it. finally tore the fitting of the radiator getting it out. ouch. then I heard the price of a replacement ouch ouch. i have some hope I can get it repaired. In the meantime I read about several competition lotus cars that used oil/water heat exchangers; I think they were fluidyne units. Looked good good good to me. Anyone had experience with the product? Advice?
  11. Roger that regarding the switch price. I've actually got two types of problems: I missing right front speed ring which is causing the ABS light to stay on and the pressure switch / accumulator failure which caused a second brake failure light on the right side to go solid and the brakes to get scary. It also has what I understand the be the infamous random pedal height syndrome I've got another accumulator , speed ring and sensor waiting to go on. We'll see whats up then.. thanks all
  12. I Still would have to replace the accumulator and very probably trashed pressure switch. The car is also missing a right fron speed ring and sensor (which I'm guessing would then become unecessary). I've been quoted roughly $240 for a pressure switch, $160 for an accumulator and another $200 or so for the speed ring and sensor and I thought I might as well kill of the whole system and start again... Perhaps I've gone over the top on on this idea, it just seemed like a lot of wasted mass under the hood... J
  13. Hello everyone; The ABS on this car definitely needs work and from what I've seen, there's no reason to spend money bring the stock ABS back to life on this car, just so I can disable it. I would like to jettison the delco moraine, powermaster whatever ABS brake system and replace it with a vacuum assisted non ABS unit. Its been suggested that I could put an early v8 non-ABS vacuum assist master cylinder on the car without a lot of bracket work. Its also been suggested that a pre ABS (mid 80s )master cylinder would work well but that the brackets are hard to find. Also I understand that the rebuild kits and parts are getting tough to find. Other master cylinder possibilities? The car is apart and I've got a blank slate here, so all thoughts are welcome. Thanks to everyone, J
  14. Hello; I've been hanging out here for a couple of weeks.. what a greate site! I'm wondering how I can help support it. Whats the relationship of this site to LEW? Is there any way to support this particular site directly?
  15. Has anyone added on oil thermostat to their car? the oil temp on this 91 SE is just too low...
  16. Kind offer Andrew; Thanks. I may well take you up on that, but I haven't actually tried to locate them yet and I'm still a little up in the airon the issue. Let me do a little digging I put you through the effort. thanks again.
  17. Hi everyone; Turned on Logging and took my computer out for a ride in my 91 SE ( I note that unlike my spouse, the computer didn't ask me to slow down).. Anyway I noted that the MAP sensor values at idle last night were around .47. Sound reasonable? Also I note that the sensor readings on the oxygen sensor seemed erratic at idle, fluctuating on a per sample basis between .002 and about .5. Reasonable when fully warmed up, cool night, around town, the oild temperature hangs out around 45-50C. If I let the car sit long enough to get the oil temp up and the fan on, the engine feels a little more "ready" to me. What is a proper fully warmed up, ready to run hard oil temp? If anyone cares to see a log, I'd be glad to get one attached (I'm a little trouble attaching one at the moment). My main goal at this point is to judge the cars engine health. Freescan is great.
  18. Not interested in purchasing at all. Only interesting in learning about it
  19. I was checking out Dermot's Esprit S4 page and saw a listing for Standard equipment that included " SIR contained with (sic) a kevlar and aluminum passenger safety cell"... what is does this mean? As a new lotus owner, as I drove me one of my lovely dautghters around town, I find myself wondering exactly how strong the cockpit is in my 91 SE; and have wondered whether the cockpit needs to be (or could be) strengthened with anything short of a rollcage. how crash safe is my lotus? How can I make it safer? btw, I have an aftermarket non-airbag momo wheel... Thanks everyone, JimC
  20. You have got to be kidding me! Compared to your project I'll have to call mine "detailing"
  21. Interesting. I will check that out because when I got the car the radiator relay was out of the car. i don't know if it was pilfored as it sat or if it was evidence of a cooling fan problem. thank you.
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