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Everything posted by LOTUSMAN33

  1. Great project as all together, we watched it go on ebay and you had a good deal. Keep the interior as only original once 👍🏻 Plenty of help on the forum, look forward to updates. Dave
  2. Engine is out and from the top as planned. Here is the sequence I used if anyone else is daft enough to do it (only joking it was ok really). Put car on four ramps so reasonably high off ground Remove tailgate Compression tested motor so removed spark plugs and leads. Drained all fluids inc gearbox. Removed carbs, air filter and inlet manifold (Already removed recently). Marked up all electrics and connections then removed/unplugged. Removed Water hoses connected to engine. Removed head tank. Removed starter and Alternator plus fan belt. Removed distributor (can mark if you choose). Removed oil cooler, oil filter and sandwich plate Released chassis crossbars and swung out the way Removed exhaust and manifold (mine was four branch so if standard cast you can just remove the system only and swing the engine to clear the chassis when lifting). Released the gear selector and cross gate cable Disconnected the speedo cable Remove bell housing bolts leaving on just two very lightly nipped. loosened engine mounts and brackets. Jacked car up and put blank under chassis with axle stands. Released the drive shafts at the gearbox. Released the lower links at the cross member. Release the rear calipers and tie back (I tied them to the springs) Released the top gearbox mount bolts but left loose in holes. Removed the clutch spring, slave cyl and adjuster. Attached strops and engine hoist just taking engine weight. Remove engine mounts and brackets. Support gearbox on trolley Jack and remove top mount bolts. Gently lower gearbox slightly following with engine until clear, I had to just pull back the rear suspension away from the box which was just hanging ( you could have removed all this first if overhauling but I just wanted the motor out to strip and survey) Once clear of chassis and obstruction release the final two bolts checking it is float and under no tension. Carefully slide back on trolley Jack (Support with wood as well on Jack) until input shaft is clear and carefully lower as can be a little unstable. Lower to floor and chock with wood. You can now remove the engine, I have a standard height garage and the hoist came quite close to the roof. I had to turn the engine as it was close to the cars roof. Pull engine hoist back and lower engine to floor, it will need a chock or it’ll tip when landed. I may have missed something as writing after event, I did this with no help so can be done alone, I recommend enlisting a friend or get the wife dirty 😂 I still like coming out the bottom but for me this allowed the car to stay tight to the wall leaving my garage free to rebuild the engine, the car was also facing the wrong way. The clutch was seized on as expected so that and the low compression on No3 cylinder made removal the right choice, both fuel tanks are toast as well anyway. You can see space wasn’t plentiful. All landed ready for a good clean before stripping, gearbox oil was really clean so hopefully only minimal work on the transmission following inspection. This is going to take some work compared to the JPS but will be fine, I should have stripped my suspension as well but want the engine in bits and can do this when waiting for parts and machining. Also the CX501 Centre caps don’t want to come off, I have soaked them in vinegar to resolve any road salt and penetrating oil and beat with a rubber mallet, job for another day but pain as heavy kit just hanging there. I will do a hit list and get ordering now, planning to do a full build on the engine. Valve clearance check next though….TBC Dave
  3. Mike you’re an Aussie fella and have some of the deadliest spiders in the world 😬 That’s not a spider…..this is a spider! (Taken in Oz 😖)
  4. Fantastic news Alan, really pleased for you. Years ago I had a Stevens turbo which got stolen, it had an immobiliser so they bypassed it and ran a live to the ignition, what they did wrong was to leave the starter engaged, the result was 100 yds and it actually sheared off the engine braking the block and bell housing! Pete at PNM undertook the repairs and had never seen damage like it. Sounds like they’ve burnt your clutch out so probably cooked the flywheel as well. Still all fixable so let’s hope it back better than it was soon 🤞🏼 Dave
  5. That’s going to get the old hacksaw working!
  6. Harry Martens at HML in the Netherlands is the Citroen box expert. 👍🏻
  7. I had to get the bravest one in the house to move it…..yep the wife! 😬
  8. That really is a strange car, for a moment I wondered if it was this car which disappeared in SA but that was a S1 where this is definitely S3 based. Its been a lot of work and must have a lot of filler to get those shapes. Lots of potential and no doubt a good bit of fun. Welcome to TLF 👍🏻, look forward to seeing what you do with it. Dave
  9. Rich I’m sure yours will be perfect when done and always nice knowing you have saved another classic lotus 👍🏻😉
  10. Beautiful Esprit and sorry to hear of your loss, good luck getting it back soon. 😢 Dave
  11. Wow that’s a great improvement, surprised you didn’t play with them before!
  12. Really hot out the garage today but have given the engine and box a good first clean in readiness for removal, sweat and degreaser are a lovely mix 😁 It didn’t come up bad with the small amount of degreaser I had so a trip to the motor factors tomorrow. I only cleaned it first to not completely plaster my engine strops in thick grime. Dave
  13. A little more progress today… Exhaust system off after a wee fight which is expected 😁 I removed the oil cooler assembly, released the cross gate cable and both chassis cross bars. To remove the silencer I thought it best to get the lower spoiler removed and after over an hour attacking rusted bolts I used a little brut force and the added panel just pulled away. Next was the bumper which is actually in perfect condition including the brackets so I’m sure this will be on another Esprit at some point. Good new is the back panel is still original only with multiple holes to repair, better than that though is the duck tail is not attached at the bottom so the car would not have performed well in a rear collision. Even better news is it’s cut above the original waist line which makes the repair easier and gives a good datum point. Spot the difference? Thankfully the ears only have two 4mm screws holding them on and haven’t been cut like many of these conversions. Dave
  14. Nice job Sparky as always, it always makes me smile at how much pleasure you get from working on these beasts. Keep up the good work fella 👍🏻 Dave
  15. The post was started a long time ago when I first found the car so just sort of grown from there. You are right though so perhaps @Bibscan move it sometime now it’s going to be restored. (Pretty please with cherry on top 😊) Dave
  16. Engine removal is underway, I might have a go pulling the box back and taking the motor out from the top just to mix things up a bit and see if it can be done (I have heard of people doing it but never seen any pics), someone has kindly cut a section of the fibreglass away where the water pump pulley is. I was going to repair this but if it helps it can stay or I can make a portable section. It has a 4 branch manifold which needs to come off first as unlike the cast one it won’t allow the engine out either way. What lies beneath….. first proper chance I’ve had now on ramps to see what state my old girl is in….Hmmm! It actually looks worse than it is so should all clean up fine. I can now see where the rear has been cut to allow the turbo kit to be fitted, it’s interesting how they added the rear as the car is actually longer than a standard turbo now, the bumper photo shows the extra overhang of the duck tail. Cut and a flat panel added to bolt the spoiler on, you can see where it has pulled away. TBC Dave
  17. EXHAUST SYSTEM (Series 2) (stainless steel) SJ079S0006 SYSTEM £527.96 FLAT SILENCER MOUNTING PLATE on GEARBOX, Series 2 only A079S4061F EACH £37.85 SILENCER MOUNTING CHANNEL, For Series 2 only. A079S4065F EACH £38.60 SILENCER MOUNTING STRAPS, PAIR (Stainless Steel), series 2 only SJ617 PAIR £19.70 That is strange, well this is what I fitted and it all worked well.
  18. SJ Sportscars is the best for all the parts, you will need new clamps, manifold to downpipe gasket and new fastenings as well. Dave
  19. You need to replace the bracket on the transmission and the down pipe. The manifold id the same. Are you fitting a U.K. rear Valance?
  20. She’s come a long way from this but still more to do I’m sure as it comes back to life. Dave
  21. Steve it was just belt and braces, the handbrake is all good but I had an instance many years ago where I left my lotus at the top of the drive and found it at the bottom in the morning, thankfully it missed everything so must have slowly crept 😁
  22. Finally out of the garage ready for the S1 to have it’s turn. Dave
  23. The S1 is finally in the garage so time to start getting the engine out. First job was removing the tailgate so I thought I would remove the dry sump lourved panel at the same time, thankfully the original tailgate hasn’t been modified and still shows it’s original lagoon blue paint. I have a screen to install once painted. Next job was marking up the wiring then a compression test to see what baseline I have. Feels like I was at this stage not so long ago with the JPS. Unfortunately the compression test has highlighted a shortfall on No3 cylinder as the photos below show which will need further investigation once out. It could be rings, liner wear or valves, next job will be to check valve clearances. Actually when I started the test I only had 2 bar then it came to life so small chance it could be choked up rings. Either way I will pull it apart and replace anything suspect during the overhaul so no real drama. I hope to have the engine out in the next week. More of a pain is this lot as I don’t have the original keys, I hate wiring 🙄😁 When I owned the car in the 90’s theft was really common and I never had a garage so I had an immobiliser fitted, alarm including a pager which informed you if the alarm had been set off. It cost me around £600 at the time and now it’s going to be a irritation stripping it all out. To do the compression test I had to run a wire from the battery to the solenoid . Dave
  24. Looking good Dave, I will adopt this approach when I convert my S1 back to its original shape following sinkage in the past. Thanks for the free lessons 😊
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