MrDangerUS

How about something more radical, without any mesh?

Yes, this piece is OEM shield used on 89 and later cars. Otherwise the left tyre gets badly baked. I have fitted a custom full shield there. The inner shield protect header against water splash. In addition, it shields inner CV joint gaiter, which sustained heat damage on my car.

I found a more attractive pattern called WL5 from Amazon. Diamond looks too "industrial". IMO, best looking would be "turned engine" pattern, but I could not find it at any reasonable price. '

Spal 30102057 10" Paddle Blade fan draws 5.5-6.0Amp steady state. In-rush current ~24Amp for 0.4sec, so you may be OK if you use slow-blow fuses. I kept 10A fuses, because I don't trust under-the-dash wiring. Had no problems w/10A fuses blowing, since I fitted thermistors.

In case one wants to fit a power steering off V8... In general, is this picture also correct for 87/88 Esprits? .

Sweetest smooth bore "RAM AIR" for 89 and onward cars: Here is my Ram Air solution: one 3.5" dia silicone 135 deg elbow, trim one end by ~1" one 3.5" dia silicone 90 deg elbow, trim one end by ~1 50mm long section of the aluminum 3.5" tube 4 Norma clamps Tube has to be slightly squeezed to form an ellipse to clear the tank inlet tube. Clamps on the tank pipes have to be re-clocked to avoid interference. All positives: Short, smooth bore duct, easy to make, under $50 from eBay. Car is running like a scalded cat! Note: to facilitate "friendly" installation of the shelf trim piece add couple wraps of smooth plastic packing tape over the 90 deg elbow

Hmmm... Have you noticed that the colour of belts is not coordinated with the interior?

Yes, they give a nice soft start. No more current spikes. I assume, NTC-s can be plugged into grounding wires of fan 1 and 3.

I went with the same fan(s), they are awesome! When they turn on I can blow the leaves off my driveway, LOL. In order to tame the in-rush current, I changed the main relay to a modern 2x20A part, added two aux relays, two thermistors and a timer. Fans start slow at the beginning and go full speed within 5 seconds without exerting an excessive over-current. If you shuffle a few relays on the perch, you'll be able to add two sockets (yellow). 20sec timer prevents fans from an immediate starting on engine hot re-start and acts as a safety measure. Here is my schematic diagram.

At what rpm secondaries come on? Is it a fixed point or it varies with MAP reading?

Mike, Would you expand on the type/specs and make of this compact clutch? Thanks John

Hi Mike, Any updates on this project? We all like to watch your "Lotus Porn", LOL.

Looking for the BEST wrap to get my Alunox header ready for installation I have been looking at a myriad of (seemingly) different tapes. Although some of them claim 2000F heat resistance, when you read customers' comments, very often they discolor fast, sometimes become brittle and fall apart. One of the 2000F tapes, DEI-101127, due to how the wrap is weaved, if you cut across for a shorter piece it will cause the entire roll to eventually unravel itself as you apply it. Also, content of fiberglass is v. high and it sheds millions of tiny glass shards constantly, to the point it looks "fuzzy" after an extended handling (wrapping chore). Another one, ARTR Titanium Lava Fiber Exhaust Header Wrap, sold on Amazon, has continuous temp rating of 1800F/intermittent 2500F, made from pulverized lava rock and stranded into a fiber material and woven into a proprietary weave. Seems pretty attractive performance-wise and price-wise. Can anyone shed some light on Samco wrap temp rating, performance and longevity ? https://www.demon-tweeks.com/us/samco-pro-shield-titanium-exhaust-wrap-265990/

The silver K-nuts (also called Jet Nuts) have different metallurgy and are real Silver plated. They have an advantage of 10mm hex, which enhances installation! M8 Aero Nuts have hex size = 13mm = more difficult to install.