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RedEspritS2

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Everything posted by RedEspritS2

  1. Hi Andy - that's just what I wanted to hear. Any chance you can give me details of how you later wired (not wifed) it through a diode? Although I could probably work it out in the long run, I'd rather follow in someone else's footsteps as I don't want to be playing with electrics - not an area for tge "trial and error" approach! Bought the wire as suggested and found these instructions - now starts like a dream.?
  2. Andy, that link is brilliant - very grateful. ?
  3. Hi Andy - that's just what I wanted to hear. Any chance you can give me details of how you later wired (not wifed) it through a diode? Although I could probably work it out in the long run, I'd rather follow in someone else's footsteps as I don't want to be playing with electrics - not an area for tge "trial and error" approach! Am I correct in assuming that the direction the diode should allow, is from the starter to the coil? with the diode inline, is this wire now attached along with all the other main connections on the starter?
  4. I did read in the leaflet that came with the starter that some cars will have an extra wife for cold starting - says it's usually not needed but can be connected with a large diode! Not sure best way of going about that :-( Thought the coil is 12v, but will now double check. The leaflet also suggests the extra wire is found mainly on cars with 12v coils.
  5. Hi all, i bought a Powerlite gear reduction starter some time ago, as recommended on here, thought it was about time I fitted it. However, I've discovered that the original starter has an extra terminal (looks like the thread of a bolt) which has a wire in a rubber cup that simply pushes on. On the original starter, it says IGN next to it. Any ideas on what I should do with the wire now, how should I connect it? Ive turned the engine over without the wire connected, the starter seems to run fine. The engine doesn't fire up, so I'm wondering whether there is a spark. I've not checked yet, will investigate that, but just wondered if anyone knows the answer anyway! pics show wire attached and wire unplugged on the original starter. I've just checked and new starter is identical to the high torque one available from SJ's.
  6. I honestly hadn't thought of that - since the needle does move, I have be assuming it's reading accurately. Well, I've got plenty to occupy myself with, so won't worry about it just yet. Oh, let me see, mmmmm, no, can't image how you know the new one won't fit! Lol.
  7. Thanks Paul. Slightly worrying, my gauge never goes to the far right. Warmed up, it sometimes will be closer to the red, but doesn't drop into the red zone. Oh dear, just ordered a batch of A21 from CCS, so no changing my mind now! Honestly, without the Bond connection, I'd still prefer white, I think white suits the early Esprit best. Obviously, my S2 was red - it was ok, but you do get stupid comments like "is it a Ferrari?" Besides, I had a garage when I owned the S2 so sunlight didn't affect it, but I'd be forever worrying I'd wake up to find it was turning pink if I did my S1 in red.
  8. Hi fellow Esprit lovers, how time flys! Ive spent the past year hand-sanding, filling and primer spraying the body. Every time I thought "right, that's it, done" I would notice surface defects that I hadn't seen before, and so the process would start over again. However, I think it's finally time for basecoat (yes, white). I also found that, although I had the engine running a lot smoother than before, the carbs were far from being balanced. So I've spent many weekends trying to balance them. To cut a long story short, I sent an email to Eurocarb describing the problem - that one carb didn't seem to fully return fully to the closed position. They advised that I remove the carbs and remount them, ensuring alignment of the linkage. I couldn't see any problem with the linkage, but I followed their advice and sure enough, both sets of butterflies now return to the fully closed position. So simple!!! So, I'm optimistic that progress is about to speed up and that I'll soon be fixing trim and bumpers back onto the car. Once all that is done, the next job will be retrimming the interior, followed by fitting new springs, dampers and bushes and refurb the brakes. Then I need to investigate why the Rev counter and Speedo don't work. Then, it should be MOT time!! The 2 x new (old stock) original radiator fans plus 1 new modern pusher fan seem to be working well - I left the engine running for 30 minutes without the heat rising beyond halfway on the gauge. i can also now report that the new fuel sender (also "new old stock" that I picked up) is working - the gauge barely moves, but it does, I guess I hadn't put enough petrol in the tanks before!!! would appreciate comments on the oil gauge. Since it doesn't actually have a numerical indicators, I've no idea where the recommended 35 or 45psi would be? More photos soon.
  9. Hi Paul, yes please, a pdf would be fantastic. I've never seen one, so I've no idea what's in there. I never got one for my S2 but found that the Owner's Manual that was with my 89 Turbo was very useful through my ownership. I fully understand your reluctance to part with your original copy!
  10. Hi Pete, Who do repairs, can you post a link? Neither my speedo nor the Rev counter work, I had seen replacement 90 degree drives at SJ but didn't buy one because I had a lot of other tasks on my restoration "to do" list, so it seems I've missed my chance there.
  11. My old S2 leaked lots, rain would pour inside from the tops of the doors and also via the windscreen, which would then run down the A- pilar. It's funny, but don't seem to have those problems on the S1. The only place water now gets in, is through the small side windows, which then runs down onto the fuel tanks - this explains why I had to replace both tanks! I'm planning to replace all of the weather seals, but in the meantime I'm looking forward to receiving the cover I ordered today from the eStore as I've noticed (when I was looking for somewhere to thread wiring for a rad fan over-ride switch) that the space below the tanks fills up with water, which then forms a rather deep puddle behind the firewall. I think Lotus had thought of this, because there is a 2 inch lip of fibreglass that seems to hold the water behind the firewall, stopping the wood from rotting!
  12. Has anyone had any luck finding a S1 Owners Handbook? I wouldn't mind a repro prevents just a photocopied one, anything would be better than nothing!
  13. Is there any problem with jacking the rear using the area of the oil drain plug on the gearbox? I've done it for years, on the S2, the 89 Turbo and now on my S1. It seems the logical spot to me and so far it's never caused any problems.
  14. Looks like I never got around to posting here either! I have a 1977 S1, originally red "self colour" gelcoat, but sprayed (very badly) yellow prior to my purchase. Chassis Number 7612 0226G Engine Number CC7 7612 13316 Car is currently undergoing restoration. New fuel tanks, radiator, fans, fuel lines & pump, fuel sender unit and plenty more already done. Main job left is repaint and interior trim. Bill
  15. About 4:30 on Sunday 8th May, was heading out of Romford towards Southend. A lovely example, certainly made my day. Bill
  16. Cheers guys - its an uphill climb, so every bit of encouragement really does help me take another step. I'm 4 years in now, realistically I'd guess at another 2 years before I put it back on the road. Yes, I loved it in Yellow and know one or two other yellow S1's that are stunning. I knew prepping the bodywork was going to be hard work, so I definitely would have left it yellow had the paint job been even reasonable. Unfortunately, the photos do make it look a lot better than it was, the paintwork was really shocking. So, I'm going white. I do like the Bond connection but I'm not a mega fan, but for me white really suits the S1 best. Although I had a red S2 I've never liked how red becomes oxidised after a few years, it's a high maintenance colour.
  17. This is how the car looks today. Still some way to go, but bodywork prep nearly done, exhaust back to original spec... and at least I've also sorted that rusty header tank pressure cap! Lol
  18. These were the eBay advert photos when I bought the car, the twin exhaust was just plain stupid - far too loud.
  19. I guess SJ must have just had a job lot of the engine cover hooks - I know it's going back a few years, but I bought a set for my old S2. Anyone able to get them made? I need some and sure plenty of others will need them too, might be worth getting a short run of them made up if can find a manufacturer.
  20. Paul - I'll have a look for that other hole for the positive cable, but this is how it was when I bought it so assumed it was right and left it that way. I didn't like this arrangement, too near the fuel line and fuel filter for my liking, so if there is another route then I'll alter it. This is after I fitted the aluminium tank, wire is still in same position. Although I cleaned up the sender unit it still didn't work, so got a new one. I've installed it now - and still no fuel gauge reading, so possibly the gauge or I've missed something. The Y fuel line was shot, worse than the photo shows - SJ got them rebuilt for me. The new fuel tanks, fuel lines, fuel pump, coolant header tank, new HT leads & coil are all fitted in the engine bay wide photo. The new header tank is aluminium, but I wasn't happy with the finish so I painted it red.
  21. I was going to remove the fans and replace with a bank of modern Kenlow fans, but when the opportunity came along to pick up some new originals, I decided to go with those and add just one modern pusher fan on the other side of the radiator. I might wire the modern on an independent circuit so that I can turn it on manually if the otter switch fails. Anyway, the new radiator and repairs to the duct tray are an improvement!
  22. PMSL - just noticed my spelling of seized earlier, obviously had a senior moment - I do know how to spell. Hehe.
  23. The radiator tray / duct was in a sorry state, years of bodged repairs using ordinary car filler. I was tempted to just buy a new one, but some resin & glass fibre matting worked wonders.
  24. I wouldn't have been surprised if this had been the original radiator, but it had been replaced in 1993.
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