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Sir Paolo

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  1. Hi, that was a long time ago. But, I do recall that it was a quite lengthy process to get it right. To get it perfect, you’d need to measure the exact pressure exerted by each valve spring. of course, I didn’t have such equipment, but I measured the free height of each spring, so in an effort to equalise valve seat pressure, I matched the shortest outer spring with the longest inner spring and so on. Not very scientific, but the best I could do. The next thing I did was to measure the installed valve spring height with a valve spring micrometer. Taking these measurements, I then factored in the amount of lift from the L14 cams (0.415” IIRC). The most critical measurement is coil bind height. When the springs are fully compressed, you need to add in a factor of 60thou to prevent coil binding with the engine running. Naturally all valve/spring/seat combo’s will be different, and it’s the valve spring seat shims that act as equalisers in this equation. I hope this helps, but if you have any further questions, please let me know.
  2. Sir Paolo

    Sir Paolo

  3. Malcolm, you could well be right, but I had the dizzy fully rebuilt (by Aldon) while my engine was in bits. I think I may have over oiled the felt pad under the rotor arm
  4. Dear all, I think I may have found the problem. Inside the (new) distributor cap there were oily deposits, and some of which has made their way onto the rotor arm tip and points inside the cap and burning. A quick clean of all the points and the difference was immediately obvious! This collection of oil in the cap is probably a result of the dizzy lying on its side.....
  5. By way of an update, all plugs are a fairly uniform colour - if a little on the rich side. So it'll be a timing check next ......
  6. It's also worth replacing the fibre washer too. I keep forgetting, and it drips
  7. Thanks Gents. Scott, the normal idle is high, but this was set by the dyno operator to compensate for the valve overlap of the cams. In normal circumstances, it's happy at 1200rpm.
  8. Thanks Gents. Scott, the normal idle is high, but this was set by the dyno operator to compensate for the valve overlap of the cams. In normal circumstances, it's happy at 1200rpm.
  9. Gents, some advice/suggestions please. My engine is about 2k miles old since a full rebuild and recently I've noticed the idle speed dropping. It is a 2.2 n/a running on L14's so it idles happiest at around 1200rpm. However it now drops to about 1k rpm, and seems like it is going to drop further/stall but this is steady although it's a bit unsteady. I haven't started investigating yet other than checking for loose leads etc, so would appreciate any pointers. I'm thinking maybe ignition timing but can't see why this would change. Many thanks Gents, sorry should've added, I've adjusted the idle speed at the carbs to about 1200rpm, but after a couple of minutes it drops to 1k again
  10. Paul, looking again at your pistons you have wear marks on the skirts which is normal, but is the scoring deep enough to catch on a finger nail? It is this area that swells with temperature and as you can see abrades the liner. These engines are prone to ovality of pistons and liners so it would be worth checking to decide if reuse is possible. The chip on one skirt could be a matter of concern too if it was a result of heat cycle failure.
  11. Paul, having just fully rebuilt my engine, I found that much of the work became a case of 'while it's I'm bits'. At least everything is new, and hopefully it shouldn't need taking apart again. This of course increases costs, so you have to weigh up budget and time available. I did this build myself with help from experts and this forum, so be assured you'll have a lot of help. Good luck
  12. Interesting, I'd not seen the Esprit article - so from what you're saying could they have made it seem better or worse if had not been edited in such a way?
  13. Vin, great to see such a good collection of cars in Malta, enough to keep any petrolhead entertained. Ed China? I saw him recently on TV in Classic Car Club- he always seems to be driving cars with the steering wheel between his knees. Must be his height !?
  14. Hi Vin, can't say I blame your girlfriend for wanting to go somewhere sunny - iirc it was cold and wet when you came over I've just joined the Historic Rally Car Register, but I'm not sure if they have events in Malta, if so I'll be there!
  15. Gents, thank you for your kind words. Trevor, I live 'round the corner' from Gary, so hope to see you there, if not it'd be great to join you both on one of your Sat am lanes blasts Vin, always happy to help and looking forwards to hearing more of your progress. Any plans for another UK visit? If so hope to meet up again
  16. Ha ha- indeed. Oh well, I'll just have to get it dirty again
  17. Hi Gary, thank you for those kind words- not forgetting all your assistance that has helped get the beast running too. Seeing you clean your baby spurred me into action too. Sadly it mean washing away all that Welsh forest mud But at least it'll look good for Classics on the Green show next Sunday (11th May) - hope to see you there!
  18. Have you had a look at the service history? Assume it has a full one? That'll give you an idea of what's been done and what may need doing.
  19. John, did you take the opportunity to upgrade the pump or go for a direct replacement? I ask because I gave up trying to set the points on my original SU, and invested in a Facet - must add that i don't get starvation problems anymore, but did have to fit a fuel regulator.
  20. Agreed, I think surface preparation is key, if you pardon the pun. Most rust and traces of old paint, plus the use of a degreasing agent is vital. If applying to smooth surfaces they will need to be abraded first. Testimony to this is that a friend of mine uses Hammerite to protect the insides of the wheel arches on his rally car.
  21. The last time I had the head skimmed, 0.006" was removed. I was reliably informed by the expert who did it that this was about the minimum you could take off, as it was done to ensure the surface was clean, rather than correct any warping. On reality 0.006" is about the thickness of 2 sheets of paper.
  22. It makes sense - I had a lot of fun (?) trying to get the liner nip right last year. It seems that over the years and numerous heat cycles the block needed to be skimmed in order to achieve a flat surface! I also hear another age related problem is causing porosity of the alli.
  23. Pressure relief valve faulty?
  24. Interesting- tbh I've never heard that removing and replacing guides was dangerous, the Lotus expert I use routinely replace them. Unless they're referring to the method of heating, which unless down uniformly can cause problems.
  25. Trevor, agreed, I must've had 0.020 skimmed off my head (well the one on the engine ) over the years and the last time the edges of the valve seats needed to be trimmed back. As long as you've checked piston to valve clearance you should be ok. The thicker Goetz gaskets should also reduce the risk of detonation from raising the compression to much.
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