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Esprit Aviation

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Everything posted by Esprit Aviation

  1. I need the distance between inner and outer front wheel bearing races in the stock Lotus / Toyota front hub. Does anyone have one off the car that you could measure for me? Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Lee
  2. The 4x100 hub and stock renault bearing fits perfectly, so the rear solution will work. Now I need the distance between inner and outer front wheel bearing races in the stock Lotus / Toyota front hub. Does anyone have one off the car that you could measure for me? Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Lee
  3. I found a 4x100, 23 spline hub with the boss that fits into the 40mm ID bearing that Andy mentioned: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Renault-21-25-30-Fuego-Espace-I-II-7701462020-/321807391334 The goal is to have a plug-and-play hub in 4x100 to use the same size wheel. Can anyone verify the Lotus rear hub has 23 splines and is 40mm OD where it fits inside the bearing? I'm ready to buy these once I am certain. Thanks again, Lee
  4. Thanks guys. Excellent info! I will look down the Renault path! Cheers, Lee
  5. Hi Andy, Not to make one, but to see if a hub is out there in 5x114.3 where bearing size and /or spline dimensions are in the ballpark. I doubt Lotus built their own CV joint and the bearing is readily available. Thanks, Lee
  6. Thanks guys. I checked with one of the local machine shops and they are water jet cutting them. just a few years ago no one in the area had the capability. we are typically in an area which is a 'Black Hole' of fabrication. I will update when it comes together. Cheers! Lee
  7. Bump, Still looking for a manifold flange source and hopefully transitions to round pipe (1.5") Any help is greatly appreciated. Lee
  8. I'm looking for 1) used stock Rochester injector to get the car going. I will spec out and experiment with high impedance injectors soon. Thanks, Lee
  9. My '85 has been off the road for 5 years. Fortunately, I'm able to drive the '89 as a daily. I've had the '85 since 1993 and have done many mods in the past. It's time for the '85 to be out on the back roads again. I am trying to source SS exhaust manifold flanges to build a rather unorthodox exhaust manifold. Transitions would be a huge bonus. Please let me know if anyone has these. Keep in mind I'm in New York State... The '89 has received many mods which have proven beneficial; most are updated versions of tried and proven mods on the '85. The following will be addressed in order of difficulty: - Radical, equal length SS turbo manifold - Elimination of the plenum to ensure precisely equal air flow. May incorporate water to air intercooling. - Reversed coolant flow with electric water pump / controller. (the '89 has this) - Coil on plug (did this mod today on the '89) I appreciate any help on sourcing the flanges and transitions. It's good to be back... Lee
  10. Great, Thanks! I will compare the two. Has anyone ever done this mod? My ECU only has three connector sockets and it looks like the schematic shows 4, so I may be out of luck...
  11. I wasnt aware a sunbird turbo existed. Is that the later black SE ECU? Are the jumpers internal to the ECU?
  12. +1 My son and I started a custom bike shop www.espritmotorcycles.com instagram #espritmotorcycles We generally do Cafe-Sport style with BMW airheads and K bikes along with some Hondas and a Royal Enfield bobber. We sell custom rear sets / pegs, etc that we machine on an 1944 South Bend lathe
  13. On my '89 non-SE, do the injector 'jumpers' exist in order to allow high impedance injectors to be used? If so, where are they specifically located and how are they removed / bypassed? Thanks, Lee
  14. I haven't been on here in a long time. If a water pump needs replacing, an electric water pump can be installed and vacuum pump deleted in favor of an electric vacuum pump. Although this is a great deal of work, it has allowed me to change my cam belt in 1/2 to 1 hour. I've done it to both my '85 and '89 Esprit and my '87 Porsche 924s. All are reverse coolant flow and I have experimented with different cam belts and tensioners. There are many, many details to convey and I hope to find the time for a proper write up if there is any interest. Cheers, Lee
  15. Sanj, Thanks again for the info. I verified the entire circuit was intact by checking the codes w/ the ALDL, I realized that it took a long time to reach operating temp and the rad was warm very early indicating a stuck open t-stat or no stat. The engine relies on a bypass type stat so there is proper circulation at all times. I removed the stat to find it was stuck about 1/4 inch open when fully hot. After I changed it, the fans started working properly. I suspect that the coolant temp sensor for the ECU was exposed to slightly cooler fluid due to lack of proper circulation. I cannot stress how important checking codes, running the rad fans and engaging the A/C clutch is w/ the ALDL. The circuits are intact and both will operate properly if you hear them. The only caveat is that the coolant temp sensor could be a bit out of spec and this test may or may not include its verification. Although it is unlikely to be out of spec if there is no code present. Now, does anyone out there have a weird tubular coolant level module? The wires were cut and spliced onto this module so I doubt it is stock. And it doesn't work anyway. The light is forever on grounding/shorting etc. I understand the Elise used a different style and maybe this is it??? No pics yet.
  16. Thanks for the reply. My esprit does have A/C though. I can verify if there is a pin in that position but I have no ECU pinout or connector info.
  17. I need a ECU pinout for an 89 non-SE. The rad fans turn on when I connect the jumper to perform a check engine light blink code readout. There are no codes present the light functions normally and is currently off after resolving code 26. This appears to indicate the 'switch' in the ECU is functioning normally along with both relays and all associated wiring. Might this indicat a faulty coolant temp sensor? (mine appers to be on top of the intake manifold w/ a yellow/brown and black wire) The reason I need a ECU pinout: A black (GND) wire is disconnected / pulled out of one of the three ECU connectors. it has a pin attached that appears to go into one of these connectors. The wire checks out with a meter as a good ground and It may be a ground feference for the coolant temp sensor. In addition, I have the o2 sensor out of the car as the other was physically broken. Shouln't this set a code? Any help is greatly appreciated. Lee
  18. It looks exactly like the red one in the 2nd pic except it has a wing that attaches to the outer edges of the rear fenders. Maybe an S4 wing added?? I will look into getting a certificate of provenance. It's a great idea to have regardless. Thanks!
  19. Is there a way to prove or disprove with the VIN? Mine has a wing like the US SE. Perhaps not factory?
  20. I forgot. I'm in Upstate New York about 15 miles from Watkins Glen. Also didn't note the link, looks like great info. Reviewing it now.
  21. Hi Travis, Thanks for the info. I will look at it in the morning and compare the bodywork. I'm wondering if anyone here has pics of an 'S' model to compare to. Lee
  22. I have been gone from the forum for way too long. I'm not sure if this is the best place to post this but In addition to my '85 Esprit Turbo, I picked up an '89 that has all the SE bodywork but no chargecooler. The bodywork and engine appear to be factory with no tacked on pieces or removal of the chargecooler. The VIN indicates it is not an SE nor does it have the SE on the number plate under the bonnet. I understand that there was a very limited number of 'S' models built. I need to know how to identify this particular Esprit. Any help is greatly appreciated. Lee
  23. Ambrose, I put lightweight Crower rods in my engine. The OEM rods are extremely heavy, and the engine really revs much easier. Most importantly, the reduction in reciprocating mass will reduce a huge amount of stress for improved longevity Regards, Lee
  24. Artie, Hope the progress is rapid! While the crank is out you might want to see if they can lighten it up a bit. It has been 4 years since I built my engine, but I recall that either 3 or 5 lbs came off the crank. Definately worthwhile! I think it was 3lbs saved collectively on all 4 rods and 5lbs off the crank for a total of 8lbs reciprocating and rotational mass eliminated! BTW, I really like the Wilwood brakes!!!! Regards, Lee
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