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Esprit Aviation

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  1. Thanks guys. Fantastic feedback! I will try to post a few pics as soon as I relearn the process. The headers are unorthodox to say the least and no one has ever done it this way. It was a very difficult, time consuming process. Each branch was filled with water and volume was measured. They differ by one teaspoon of water so no compromise for equal length. I spent weeks looking at compressor maps and the turbos are the exact match for my design. The intended purpose of power down low, obviating the need to thrash the engine. Barry, I am surprised how bright they glow. Can't imagine if it was under continuous load! I have Electromotive crank triggered ignition and If dial in more than 32 degrees total advance they darken a bit. I've always run much more advance than stock and never had an issue. If the headers are scavenging so efficiently, The fueling may have become inadequate. I need to install the A/F meter to verify mixture. If this is the case, can either cam be adjusted to take advantage of a great deal of scavenging?? The pipes are all 316 SS. I have melted aluminum gasket rings from out between the joints at these temps. I believe pure Al melts at 1260F...sounds a bit high for my liking! I have substituted copper rings since. Love the idea of twin scroll ball bearing turbos! It would be easier!! That was My first design but the twins were so cheap, it forced my hand They are simply journal bearing though. Ok, here we go with a pic. Hope it shows ok.
  2. I fabricated a long branch header for a low end torque, twin turbo system. It is absolutely equal length. 1&4 feed one turbo, 2&3 feed the other. The turbos are sized correctly. When I rev to 3k RPM no load and hold it there for a couple of minutes it glows red hot like the cast iron manifold in the popular factory test photo. I would like some insight on mixture / cam adjustments to bring the temp down a bit and improve efficiency, I suspect the improvement in scavenging may have something to do with it. It is amazing how much easier and faster the engine revs vs the stock manifold / turbo. Do the Alunox, etc SS manifolds glow like this during a short no load run? Any input is welcomed. Cheers, Lee
  3. Thanks guys!! That's exactly what I was looking for. I made an error, it is LHD not RHD. I fully understand now and will look into the dash first as it seems to be key in the structure. I got the seized engine running and the exhaust is exceptionally clean. no smoking. Clutch wasn't even stuck. jacked it up and ran it through the gears by using a 1 1/4 wrench on the lever to disengage. The clutch cable was rusted solid. I'm very excited with the progress and look forward to getting the brakes to work. Another thing I desperately need is to understand what holds the pedal assembly to the floor / sides. This car was missing a lot of parts. Once again your help is greatly appreciated!
  4. Thanks Jim, It looks like I'm missing everything in the lower diagram. Of course for RHD. I just cant imagine the four bolts on the inside of the body and the dash carries the weight of the column / steering wheel. I can move the ones near the passenger side door with my fingers. I presume there's a center support for the dash that would help. Do you have a drawing showing the parts in that area? Lastly, where can I even begin to locate these items? I wont need the dash right away but if I can get that wheel off the floor it'll be a big step! Thanks again, Lee
  5. It's been a long time since I've been on. My two Esprits have been joined by a '70 Europa S2 basket case. received it two days ago with enginge seized and managed to get it running yesterday. Many parts are missing including the entire support structure behind the dash (no dash panel either) for the steering column. Can someone help with photos / diagrams so I can get the wheel off the floor? I have no idea what it would attach to. Thanks, It's good to be back! Lee
  6. I need the distance between inner and outer front wheel bearing races in the stock Lotus / Toyota front hub. Does anyone have one off the car that you could measure for me? Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Lee
  7. The 4x100 hub and stock renault bearing fits perfectly, so the rear solution will work. Now I need the distance between inner and outer front wheel bearing races in the stock Lotus / Toyota front hub. Does anyone have one off the car that you could measure for me? Any help is greatly appreciated. Cheers, Lee
  8. I found a 4x100, 23 spline hub with the boss that fits into the 40mm ID bearing that Andy mentioned: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/New-Front-Wheel-Bearing-Renault-21-25-30-Fuego-Espace-I-II-7701462020-/321807391334 The goal is to have a plug-and-play hub in 4x100 to use the same size wheel. Can anyone verify the Lotus rear hub has 23 splines and is 40mm OD where it fits inside the bearing? I'm ready to buy these once I am certain. Thanks again, Lee
  9. Thanks guys. Excellent info! I will look down the Renault path! Cheers, Lee
  10. Hi Andy, Not to make one, but to see if a hub is out there in 5x114.3 where bearing size and /or spline dimensions are in the ballpark. I doubt Lotus built their own CV joint and the bearing is readily available. Thanks, Lee
  11. Thanks guys. I checked with one of the local machine shops and they are water jet cutting them. just a few years ago no one in the area had the capability. we are typically in an area which is a 'Black Hole' of fabrication. I will update when it comes together. Cheers! Lee
  12. Bump, Still looking for a manifold flange source and hopefully transitions to round pipe (1.5") Any help is greatly appreciated. Lee
  13. I'm looking for 1) used stock Rochester injector to get the car going. I will spec out and experiment with high impedance injectors soon. Thanks, Lee
  14. My '85 has been off the road for 5 years. Fortunately, I'm able to drive the '89 as a daily. I've had the '85 since 1993 and have done many mods in the past. It's time for the '85 to be out on the back roads again. I am trying to source SS exhaust manifold flanges to build a rather unorthodox exhaust manifold. Transitions would be a huge bonus. Please let me know if anyone has these. Keep in mind I'm in New York State... The '89 has received many mods which have proven beneficial; most are updated versions of tried and proven mods on the '85. The following will be addressed in order of difficulty: - Radical, equal length SS turbo manifold - Elimination of the plenum to ensure precisely equal air flow. May incorporate water to air intercooling. - Reversed coolant flow with electric water pump / controller. (the '89 has this) - Coil on plug (did this mod today on the '89) I appreciate any help on sourcing the flanges and transitions. It's good to be back... Lee
  15. Great, Thanks! I will compare the two. Has anyone ever done this mod? My ECU only has three connector sockets and it looks like the schematic shows 4, so I may be out of luck...
  16. I wasnt aware a sunbird turbo existed. Is that the later black SE ECU? Are the jumpers internal to the ECU?
  17. +1 My son and I started a custom bike shop www.espritmotorcycles.com instagram #espritmotorcycles We generally do Cafe-Sport style with BMW airheads and K bikes along with some Hondas and a Royal Enfield bobber. We sell custom rear sets / pegs, etc that we machine on an 1944 South Bend lathe
  18. On my '89 non-SE, do the injector 'jumpers' exist in order to allow high impedance injectors to be used? If so, where are they specifically located and how are they removed / bypassed? Thanks, Lee
  19. I haven't been on here in a long time. If a water pump needs replacing, an electric water pump can be installed and vacuum pump deleted in favor of an electric vacuum pump. Although this is a great deal of work, it has allowed me to change my cam belt in 1/2 to 1 hour. I've done it to both my '85 and '89 Esprit and my '87 Porsche 924s. All are reverse coolant flow and I have experimented with different cam belts and tensioners. There are many, many details to convey and I hope to find the time for a proper write up if there is any interest. Cheers, Lee
  20. Sanj, Thanks again for the info. I verified the entire circuit was intact by checking the codes w/ the ALDL, I realized that it took a long time to reach operating temp and the rad was warm very early indicating a stuck open t-stat or no stat. The engine relies on a bypass type stat so there is proper circulation at all times. I removed the stat to find it was stuck about 1/4 inch open when fully hot. After I changed it, the fans started working properly. I suspect that the coolant temp sensor for the ECU was exposed to slightly cooler fluid due to lack of proper circulation. I cannot stress how important checking codes, running the rad fans and engaging the A/C clutch is w/ the ALDL. The circuits are intact and both will operate properly if you hear them. The only caveat is that the coolant temp sensor could be a bit out of spec and this test may or may not include its verification. Although it is unlikely to be out of spec if there is no code present. Now, does anyone out there have a weird tubular coolant level module? The wires were cut and spliced onto this module so I doubt it is stock. And it doesn't work anyway. The light is forever on grounding/shorting etc. I understand the Elise used a different style and maybe this is it??? No pics yet.
  21. Thanks for the reply. My esprit does have A/C though. I can verify if there is a pin in that position but I have no ECU pinout or connector info.
  22. I need a ECU pinout for an 89 non-SE. The rad fans turn on when I connect the jumper to perform a check engine light blink code readout. There are no codes present the light functions normally and is currently off after resolving code 26. This appears to indicate the 'switch' in the ECU is functioning normally along with both relays and all associated wiring. Might this indicat a faulty coolant temp sensor? (mine appers to be on top of the intake manifold w/ a yellow/brown and black wire) The reason I need a ECU pinout: A black (GND) wire is disconnected / pulled out of one of the three ECU connectors. it has a pin attached that appears to go into one of these connectors. The wire checks out with a meter as a good ground and It may be a ground feference for the coolant temp sensor. In addition, I have the o2 sensor out of the car as the other was physically broken. Shouln't this set a code? Any help is greatly appreciated. Lee
  23. It looks exactly like the red one in the 2nd pic except it has a wing that attaches to the outer edges of the rear fenders. Maybe an S4 wing added?? I will look into getting a certificate of provenance. It's a great idea to have regardless. Thanks!
  24. Is there a way to prove or disprove with the VIN? Mine has a wing like the US SE. Perhaps not factory?
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