free hit
Esprit Aviation's Content - Page 2 - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content

Esprit Aviation

Basic Account
  • Posts

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Esprit Aviation

  1. I forgot. I'm in Upstate New York about 15 miles from Watkins Glen. Also didn't note the link, looks like great info. Reviewing it now.
  2. Hi Travis, Thanks for the info. I will look at it in the morning and compare the bodywork. I'm wondering if anyone here has pics of an 'S' model to compare to. Lee
  3. I have been gone from the forum for way too long. I'm not sure if this is the best place to post this but In addition to my '85 Esprit Turbo, I picked up an '89 that has all the SE bodywork but no chargecooler. The bodywork and engine appear to be factory with no tacked on pieces or removal of the chargecooler. The VIN indicates it is not an SE nor does it have the SE on the number plate under the bonnet. I understand that there was a very limited number of 'S' models built. I need to know how to identify this particular Esprit. Any help is greatly appreciated. Lee
  4. Ambrose, I put lightweight Crower rods in my engine. The OEM rods are extremely heavy, and the engine really revs much easier. Most importantly, the reduction in reciprocating mass will reduce a huge amount of stress for improved longevity Regards, Lee
  5. Artie, Hope the progress is rapid! While the crank is out you might want to see if they can lighten it up a bit. It has been 4 years since I built my engine, but I recall that either 3 or 5 lbs came off the crank. Definately worthwhile! I think it was 3lbs saved collectively on all 4 rods and 5lbs off the crank for a total of 8lbs reciprocating and rotational mass eliminated! BTW, I really like the Wilwood brakes!!!! Regards, Lee
  6. If you want to get rid of the rust easily and w/o blasting check out the rust remover we carry. Click below on 'RUST REMOVAL' Regards, Lee Not sure how much it would be to send overseas though; still looking into less expensive shipping methods
  7. Trev, makes sense! Thanks for the input. Jeff, looking forward to the various dyno figures!
  8. Trev, thanks for the reply. If one of four pipes would be considered restrictive, wouldn't the single pipe between the turbo and the plenum then be considered fairly restrictive? Just tring to wrap my head around this one! Cheers, Lee
  9. Plastige always worked for me. You can even do both side of the bearing at once to check for any abnormalities, or in my case, if you are paranoid!
  10. Three words: Crank triggered system
  11. If cash is not a problem, consider some lightweight forged ones. The benefits of reducing the reciprocating mass are substantial. I am running JE forged pistons w/ a 9.25:1 compression and stock 8 psi boost. If you change ANY aspects of your pistons, be sure to send one to wherever you decide to have them made up!!! Lee
  12. Adding a relay would be the safest couse of action. It would gaurantee the new stalk won't melt. Plus maximum voltage to the lights. Regards, Lee
  13. All, My car relies SOLELY on an electric pump controlled by a variable speed controller, via a thermocouple that drives the pump faster as the heat increases. Go to my garage, I think there is a pic of it and a brief explanation. It is a Davies Craig EP80(not sure about model #). It has been in the car for four years now w/ no problems. Please ask if you are seriously interested in doing this conversion, I can help you avoid all the problems!!!!!!! It is very easy, just needs to be in the correct place for proper circulation. Huge benefits from reduction of rotational mass!!! Cheers, Lee
  14. Paul, If I remember correctly, either the marine clean, or the metal ready are acid based rust removers. Once an acid based rust remover is in contact with rusty sheet metal, and the rust is removed, the acid continues to eat the bare, clean metal as well. This may cause pinholes to develop. Otherwise, pinholes may not occur in the presence of a chelant based rust remover that tends to leave the bare metal alone. Here in the states I sell a chelant type rust remover, which has been utilised extensively for similar applications. The problem now is trying to effectively coat the inside once it is bare steel. I have tested the POR-15 on a battery box and the rust seemed to come right through it again and it tends to chip off. We are currently testing newer technology chemistries to produce a superior coating. Sandblasting will also compromise the thinner metals unlike a chelant based rust remover, plus some of the 'debris' is likely some sand and flakes of rust that can't be removed easily. Neither is a problem with our rust removal fluid. Better yet, just get some custom poly fuel cells made and be done with corrosion and the fuel contacting metal altogether! Regards, Lee
  15. Jeff, I was discussing a similar topic with a friend today. I wondered if you eliminated the plenum completely, what would the effect be? Why have a plenum if the engine is not chargecooled? Why not individual pipes, run off a common diffuser on the turbo outlet, attached to each carb throat? Anyway, he said that "you need 1 liter of plenum volume for every liter of displacement" Is this true, and why? I would like to find out more info and data as well on this topic. Regards, Lee
  16. I'm a driver, not a polisher. although I do appreciate a nice shiny paint job!
  17. Like to see them use it for a tunnel run!
  18. Harry Martens was absolutely correct in the diagnosis, You should send him some business!
  19. Iain, I built the engine about 5 years ago and found the pick-up blocked by the factory sealant which had become brittle and broken off. At least I know that it isn't a problem. As for mains, there is not much time on them, I plastigaged them in several places and they were spot on. Plus on start up there is not a hint of noise, even after the car has been sitting. I wondered if the oil pump shaft could be moving fore and aft w/ load and no load causing the variation. I think I'll try the oils first. Thanks for the thoughts on this bizarre situation! Regards, Lee
  20. Gentlemen, As always, thanks for the advice! All recommendations and observations seem logical, practical and in the case of changing oil, very easy to do. I suppose I'll start there and experiment w/ various oils. The oil I first used was Castrol 20-50 when the engine was in original used condition and it seemed to perform and hold hot pressure better. Regards, Lee
  21. Hi Brian, The bearings are fresh as of about 4 years, 20k mi ago. No other symptoms, very quiet on start-up even after an extended period of non-use. I see you are from Parkersburg WV. My brother lives in Marietta OH, and was visiting here for a few days. His family usually shops in Parkersburg quite often. If I get down that way I'll try to look you up. Trev, The oil press. varies fairly quick w/ the load & minimal change in RPM. I built the engine over 4 years ago, and I am acutely aware of the brittle bits of gasket/sealant choking off the was horrendous! I also ensured that I used locktite on the pickup bolts. I have no other symptoms such as starvation during cornering etc. It seems as if something in the oil pump were moving when the enginge is put under load then quickly changing position to pump more efficiently when the throttle is reduced. Perhaps it is the opposite. The pressure builds when I back off the throttle due to a restriction, then the restriction is removed when accellerating. It is easy to keep going in circles in my mind w/ a problem like this. Thanks for the help, I really appreciate your thoughts Regards, Lee
  22. Thanks for the replies. Simon, I have a mechanical VDO oil pressure gauge so we can rule out electrical. I wondered if there could be some reason due to cams or crank; some rotating component, changing position on and off throttle. Fore and aft movement of the oil pump, just something really bizzare. Any other thoughts out there??? Lee
  23. With the engine up to operating temp, has anyone experienced an oil pressure drop when accellerating, only to have it come back up as soon as you back off the throttle? Yes the oil level is proper. Regards, Lee
  24. I put mine behind the gearshift where it is best protected from accident damage being in the center of the car. Also, in the event of an accident, either myself or my passenger can kill the entire electrical system, as it is within easy reach. Plus! If you are strapped in, you can still reach it!!!!
  • Create New...