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gvy last won the day on June 6 2020

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    Lotus Esprit S2.2

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  1. Thanks for the answer Pete. I have asked SJ about the difference between the 2 , but I didn't get an answer yet. Since I have the 4-1 SS header and no central muffler for many years, The noise is ....sufficient.... and I don't really need it louder.
  2. pete, Can you inform me what backbox (or rear silencer) you bought and are using ? I see that SJ sportscars have 2 different types : SJ079S0004 : REAR SILENCER ESPRIT Series 2 and 3 or SJ079S0013 :SPORTS SILENCER, STAINLESS STEEL (series 2 and 3)
  3. I have NANKANG Ultra Sport NS-2 205/60R14 in front. They are dressed up as Good Years 😁 They are rated H which means 210km/h (130mph) and to be honnest, I am not planning on riding that fast in my 40 year old Lotus esprit S2.2. I am not saying they are fantastic or so, but I do have a spirited way of driving the lotus and tend to corner it fast and they never surprised me. They have an excellent road holding in the dry. I never really tested them in the wet. I combined them with NANKANG Toursport NS 215/65R14 in the back, also rated H (210km/h) and dressed up as GOOD YEAR. For what it's worth, They are apparantly an old Taiwanees tire companie wit some history :
  4. Hello Andrae and glad you decided to post here after 5 years. I look forward to your esprit build. I also watched some video's of the hillclimbs with the Talbot lotus sunbeam and they are spectacular. You got 285 BHP at over 9000 rpm out of a 2l 907 engine and keepin it in one piece ? I guess you know your things around the 907/912 engines. I really like to see more about that. Greets Geert
  5. Giorgio, You have done a good job and you are right, that the system should be fine adjusted in the first place. On the other hand. Lotus should have used relais to open and close the windows. Let me explain: Of course you will measure 12V at the windows. But the fact is that as soon you start drawing current, there will be a voltage drop that you can measure at the windowmotor and that voltage drop depends on the loss ( impedance ) in the circuit. The current has to travel through to long and small wiring and the biggest impedance comes from the contacts of the lucas switches that are not up to their task in the long run. So if the system is not fine tuned, the motors have to work harder, the current will rise, but the contacts can't handle it so the impedance in the system is bigger, so the voltage drops during the movement, and it all slows down, or even starts to fail. A well sorted system as yours will do good, but just as long as the lucas contacts will cope and as long as your system stays well sorted. Using relais, the current comes directly to the doors with shorter and bigger wires and the contacts of these relais are way better than the lucas switches (the relais are made for these currents infact). EVen if the system is not finetuned and starts drawing more current, that does not matter, because the total impedance of the feeding circuit is so low that even at work the full 12V stays at the windowmotors. ANd that impedance will stay low , just because the thicker wiring and the contacts of the relais will not deteriorate with use and time. The lucas switch contacts are just needed for a small current to trigger the relaiscoil. They can cope with that for ever, they will not burn in. They were never made to carry the full windowmotorcurrents. The proof: In your video : Going down : 1.75 sec , going up : 2.57 sec. This is good, but notice the difference in up and down : the motor has to work harder to go up and will draw more current. The voltage drops , because of the impedance in the circuit, hence the longer run to go up. In your case, this is no problem because it all works just fine and even better after adjusting , but it is a system that in the end will fail. In my video : Going down : 1.9 sec , going up : 1.97 sec I did nothing to my system and before the mod the windows became slow. I just fitted the relais modification. You can see that going up and going down are about the same times. That proves that , even if there is more current needed to do the work going up, it just does not matter here. The electrical circuit is up to the task and there will be no voltage drop at the windowmotors whatsoever, making sure the motors get the power they need to go up as fast as to go down. This is why I started this tread. This mod will solve a lot of issues with slow windows. Even in wintertime, when frost makes it even more difficult, The windowmotors will get the current and voltage they need to do the harder job. On the other hand, you are right that it is good to finetune the system in the first place.
  6. gvy

    Archive (2020)

    Yep, The interior shots of the "accident" car of a Delorian
  7. gvy

    Archive (2020)

    And again a Giugiaro Lotus Esprit is featured in a new movie. It started its career in the famous bond movie, the last time I saw one was starring next to Scarlet Johansson in 2017 Ghost in the Shell , a futuristic Manga movie and today I watched a 2020 Sci Fi movie about AI called " Archive". It has a minor rol but still strange they keep popping up in Sci Fi even at an age of over 40 year now. The car used must be a Esprit S2 ( it has 4 bolt Speedlines and ears) but it has a full Turbo body kit. 1000 × 662
  8. You could strip the veneer off, clean it nicely and then hydro dip it walnut. Finish of with a clearcoat and it will be as new. Or carbonfiber or snakeskinn 😁..... endless possibilities. Google the proces if you don't know it. I don't think it is that expensive and if you are the DIY type you could try it yourself in your bathtub....I would. I never tried it yet
  9. Andy, I guess you are right. Anyway, SJ sportscars has them in their online catalogue.
  10. The one you will need is SKF BA2B 417308. Good luck finding one. I once saw one available on ebay and bought it , but I keep it as a spare, because I am sure I may have to replace one in the coming years may be here???
  11. You are right. Mine was intact.... I don't know.... tbh, In that case I would replace it, but I remember this has become a difficult to find bearing and expensive. that collar is there on both inner race halves, so that the black clip hold them toghether
  12. but you have to remove the halve innerrace of your axle of course. Did that with a puller.
  13. I remember , I just left the outer part of the bearing inside the hub, never tried to remove it. I cleaned and greased it and put it all back toghether inside the hub. Did it on both sides I wrote this about it : Have you looked closely how these double row bearings are made? It is a double row angular contact ball bearing The outer ring is one cilinder piece. The inner ring is a two piece split innerring, hold together in the center with a thin U shaped metal piece that fits in a small groove in each of the two inner ring parts. To make the bearing, they have put the rollers in a plastic cage in each of the two parts and put them in at each side of the outer cilinder. To fix the two inner rings, the small U shaped metal piece is inserted and clipsed If I took a new bearing and clips out the central part, I could take out the pieces you see in my picture, without breaking a thing. Ones this bearing sits in place over an axe, there is no way the two inner halves can be separated, because the clipsed metal piece also sits on the axe pushed in and cannot come out. But when pulling with great force the bearing of the axe, the moment that one halve is of but the other still on the axe, it can indeed release, as I had.
  14. Hallo Whiskybob, The same happened to me in 2017. I pulled the axe out and the inner part of the bearing stayed inside, the outer part came out. We had a nice discussion on the forum about the fact if that bearing could be reused. Some were certain this was unthinkable, Some ( I ) thought it would be no problem. I cleaned and inspected the bearing and regreased and put everything back toghether and uptil now all has been fine. Here is the link to that discussion. May be interesting for you: Please go directly to the post of 2 january 2017 and the following posts . The first earlier posts mean nothing. The inner race of the bearing exists out of two parts ( it is build like that ) and when pulling one part releases. While the outer race ( one part) just stays in the hub. I looked at it for hours and in the end I was sure , I just could build that unobtainable bearing back after cleaning and regreasing.....simply because that is the way the bearing was put toghether in the first place ( factory). Of course , if you see that the bearing is damaged or degraded, you should replace it.
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