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gvy

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gvy last won the day on January 1

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About gvy

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    LOTUS

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  • Name
    Geert
  • Car
    Lotus Esprit S2.2

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  1. That is so right. Injection does make an engine run more stable. Hot , cold, whatever, turn and start... No special starting procedures when cold or hot engine, also more stable when idling for a long time in some cue . My 1970 GT was changed from original carb to a vintage analogue Bosch L-jetronic system ( must be seventies) and still, that engine starts and runs so good. Now there is this direct response and a nice sound that is good fun with well sorted sidedraft carbs, but In the past I have considered throttle bodies with programmable injection and a lambda + programmable ignition on my esprit. Didn't do it for originallity sake and because my carbs are well ballanced. But once programmed it just makes an engine run in optimum condition all the time from start,idle upto high revs, so safe and stable, no lean or rich conditions , always spot on. So yes an SE is way better sorted then an S1 or S2 esprit. There is also the chapman strut rear suspension on the S1 and S2 cars. Lightweight and fun, together with the inboard discs because of the low unsprung weight. It makes these early cars so nimble. BUT again, it puts a lot of strain on the gearbox and driveshafts, uses the engine as a part of the suspension, and transfers a lot of noise into the cabin, so reliability and comfort is better on the later cars. Now the S3 and Turbo esprit, both Giugiaro, didn't have the chapman strut anymore. Geert
  2. That is my 1970 Opel GT with some classic opel mods added : CIH 2.2 engine with bosch L-jetronic, GETRAG 5 speed, bigger ventilated opel record discs in front etc.... I own it over 30 years now and paintwork was done in my garage (in a diy boot) by myself. SAM_5269 by gvygvy, on Flickr
  3. Pick your esprit. 3 main model variants on my driveway A Giorgetto Giugiaro S2.2 A Peter Stevens SE A Julian Thomson S4 Sadly I only own the S2.2. I would love to have an S4S or a GT. On the other hand, as the cars get older now,and it isn't about the sheer hp or performances anymore , since the current and coming ( electric ) cars are way faster from 0-60mph and modern suspensions and braking power have become so much better, I somehow validate the classic looks of my older S2.2 more and more. anyway, Giorgetto Giugiaro sounds more posh
  4. If you can live with a V12 GT instead of a V12 sports car, the BMW 850i (1989 -1999) is an affordable V12.
  5. My car hasn't been used often this year. Reason, I bought a motorcycle and that is so much fun. Anyway, today I did a small tour around town and checked some things like water, oil and while cold I measured the cambelt tension at 30bdc. I got 118Hz, so that is fine for me . It is a GATES powergrip 5146
  6. Just for info's, We had this topic here. I remember, I went into detail about frequency tension in the past:
  7. When I got my engine out in 2014 , I portmatched in and outletports. I used the gasket between manifold and head. I Placed the gasket on the head and with a marker I could indicate the opening. and I did the same on the manifold. After that I could take material away until ports in the head, the gasket and the manifold were identical, so portmatched for optimal flow. You'd be surprised how much difference there is on the openings
  8. Hi, After I rebuild my carbs,(years ago) I used this method to set float level. I did not test this a number of times, because the engine was fine. Some months ago , I retested the float level and all was still OK. So uptill now, for me this method works. Some remarks. 1. I used viton tips instead of metal tips when I rebuild the carbs. 2. I had trouble in the past with the fuel pump and had to change it for a new one. 3. Make sure there is a free flow of fuel from the pump, so no filters blocked. You can trie that with a glass bowl and deconnect the fuel line at the carbs and let the fuel free running ( fuel pump pumping of course) in the bowl
  9. Now eat that ferrari... Lotus even has its own brand of luxurious toiletpaper ( royale ), because that is exactly what a real lotus driver or his passenger will need after he exercised what his lotus is capable of on a race circuit
  10. Eh, Thanks Giz and Pete, job done...you just convinced me not to do it. I guess its a bad idea. I just love the deep black surface look of real carbon fiber high gloss, so I wanted to try it myself and hobby a bit. The sills and frontspoilers are painted colourmatch imperial green on my car, so that is why I wanted to go back to a more original S2 feature ( black sills and frontspoiler) but with a (carbon)twist. That was the idea. I am not to fond on matte black paint as the original, so I guess I just leave it the way it is, colourmatched. Oh , and an overhead cockpit stereo will be difficult with my glass roof. (and that stays, because it gives me extra headroom and ventilation, or.....I could take it out and close it up and make a carbon fiber rooftop .
  11. Hi, I have a crazy idea , So please talk me out of it. My esprit S2.2 is currently painted in Imperial Green ( the colour of the lotus carltons ) . I bought it this way, it was original gold and should have stayed gold, but to be honnest I really like the imperial green ( almost black) a lot, so it will stay that way. SAM_7521 by gvygvy, on Flickr But since it is an S2.2 and all S2 cars have the sills, the front spoiler and back painted black,not so mine, I always wanted to do something with that. SO, How about the idea of a genuine carbonfiber overlay on the sills and frontspoiler ? Problem is. I really don't want to take the sills of the car, because that is a really difficult job and would probably involve taking out the tanks to acces some rivets/bolts. Do we have people here with experience in carbon fiber overlay ( not the fake wraps) ? Would it even be possible to attach the carbon fibre on a sill that is for a big part vertical and the other part upside down ( part under the car). And if so, would it be possible to evenly soak it ( upside down) with epoxy resin ( 3 or 4 layers) in a way that is estetically OK, before scuffing and clearcoat . ? Or will the epoxy never stay on and keep on dripping, The front spoiler can be taken off , so that will be less of a hassle and can be done on a workbench.
  12. A little update . The exhaust started to be a bit louder again . So time to check the experiment and open up the muffler. I noticed that there was a small hole where the tube enters the muffler. This has nothing to do with the fact that it is made repackable, but was caused by an old repair. So I had some welding to do. But back to the experiment: I openend up the exhaust and indeed, there was a lot of rockwool missing. It wasn't empty, but a lot was gone. After inspection, I noticed that where the rockwool gets hot ( around the perforated tubes ) the fibres are becoming very fine and brittle ( almost like dust), so it is evident that they are blown away rather quick. To be honest, I expected it So the new plan was to buy some exhaust packing material in a motorcycle store on line. That was the plan, but I have no patience, so I started a new plan with materials I had lying around. 20190811_180711 by gvygvy, on Flickr I wrapped heatresistant heatwrap around the two perforated innertubes, before repacking with the rockwool. It looks like the stuff that is used as exhaust wrap, but it is an industrial product used as insulation around steampipes. Before using it I made sure that it is really heatresistant, so I used the open flame from a gas blowtorch on it for some time....perfect. The idea is that this layer is very resistant and will not just blow out and it works as an insulator against the rockwool that is not touching the perforated pipes and in order to prevent the rockwool fibres from blowing out. I also want to try a different approach as a gasket to close up the muffler. The heatresistent silicone had done a good job. It stayed sealed , but it took some time to remove it and open up, so this time I want to use a roll of flexible self adhesive gasket, to test if this makes opening and closing more easy. The silicone sealed well but takes some time to remove and clean. picture of the wrapped perforated tubes, before I started filling with rockwool. 20190810_133722 by gvygvy, on Flickr And at last I use some exhaust clamps to close up this time. This allows me to open up and close, just using a spanner. 20190811_181059 by gvygvy, on Flickr So let the test begin. The car sounded a lot more dampened again, so that is perfect. Let's see if the rockwool will stay in a bit longer this time. If not....I order some motorcycle 4 takt exhaust dampening whool.....
  13. Yes, In my case it was the UJ's. After replacing them with the DANA SPICER 5-1310X U-joints . This sound disappeared.
  14. gvy

    Cafe racer

    Have a look at the gastap, where the fuelhose is connected. They do tend to start leaking there. otherwise don't have a clue.
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