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    2006 Elise
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    San Antonio

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  2. my mistake - the 245/17 is the was the standard Ford Mustang GT tire for almost 10 years.... Guess that's why there are so many options.
  3. Went with the Michelin PS2 in 295/35ZR-18 ® & 245/40ZR-17 (F). Great tires - no clearance issues. The new Mechelin Pilot Super Sports are all the rave presently since the PS2 is, for the most part, discontinued. They were not out at the time I bought mine - much better than the D9000's - also 8 years newer at the time.... Pilot Super Sports are available but only in the stock sizes (no + sizes) - 285/35ZR-18 & 245/40ZR-17
  4. I understand the turbo oil return is a gravity drain to the pan. Cooler would simply be in-line of the supply line between the head and turbo. Orientate the inlets to the cooler where the oil enters and exits the top (most setrab coolers have the inlets on the top or bottom). Put a check valve on the supply / head side and when the engine is shut off there will be a vacuum lock not allowing the oil to siphon out of the cooler as you have cut off the air supply to the inlet (high) side of the cooler. Therefore you should have a cooler that is full of oil & as soon as the journels are filled the oil would flow normally past the check valve to the cooler then turbos (same delay as in stock system). A check valve between the head and cooler would cover 2 of the concerns - preventing the oil from all draining back into the pan which prevents a long delay in oil reaching the turbo on initial start up. This would allow reading the dip stick as normal and not having to allow for additional volume in the oil pan - after initial fill & compensation for additional cooler & line volume. I was thinking mounting behind the cross member to the bottom of the trunk. Running both supply lines to the dual fluid cooler (one for each turbo) - they have integrated thermostats to turn the electric fans on. Should get a fairly cool air charge from the axle side by the transmission - hot air would be discharged to the back towards the muffler. Drew this out - check valve will not work.... Going to have to look at this more - the siphon effect will completely drain the coolers....
  5. My thoughts on "flow" rate/volume make me lean towards using the "cooler" like an accumulator. I don't think the feed/return lines will be any greater length than the stock hoses (less than 12-18 inches different) therefore I don't think the additional hose would raise any restriction concerns. The restriction would come from the cooler itself. Where the accumulator reference comes in is use a cooler designed for a flow rate greater that that of the oil being supplied. Simplified - if the oil feed lines are AN-4 fittings, use an AN-6 or AN-8 cooler.Since the maximum flow rate/pressure will be controled by the feed line, AN-4 then a cooler at AN-6 or AN-8 should provide little to no resistance even accounting for the viscosity difference of the oil "cooling" in the cooler element. That would ensure little to no restriction and the cooler would effectively become a pressure reservoir like an accumulator and the flow rate/pressure would be determined by the feed/return lines. Just thinking out loud - my logic may be off???
  6. Figured this would be the correct thread to resurect. I will be swapping to the hybrid T25/T28 turbos soon - figure that would be the best time to swap all of these hoses and possibly upgrade them to better quality ones - mine are in great shape but a little preventative maintenance at the opportune time is a good policy. Here's my questions/thought & reason for resurrecting this thread. 1 - Both the oil and water FEED lines are easily intercepted from the block/heads and can be routed to an external cooler. Setrab makes a really cool "fan pack" that is a dual cooler (2 fluids) in the same radiator ( that would facilitate cooling the oil between the engine and the turbo (same with the water). I know these cars have oil coolers, etc. but looking at the oil journel diagram in the shop manual it looks like it flows from the oil pump thru the whole lower end before it gets to the outlet to the turbos (oil will be warmed up to bearing temp before it flows to turbos - 110+ C oil before it goes to the turbos). Since turbos are constantly struggle with heat as it is, why not give them a fresh charge of cool oil & water? Sure it will add a few Kg to the car's weight but should not only substaintially increase the turbo life but should have some performance gains as a byproduct of a cooler turbo/less heat soak? Since both sustems are pressurised before the new cooler and both thermostatically controlled before the new coolers there is no need for pumps, t-stats, check valves, etc... Just picking your brains on this. I deal with 38+ C ambient air temps over here during the summer and the radiator is struggling as it is - this should, on the water side, take a substaintial load off the radiator & oil cooling circuit as another byproduct. Thoughts?
  7. I was having to double prime (with the ign key) then crank for 3 or so seconds until It started. I too noticed that the fuel pressure was leaking down quickly. I just replaced the stock Rochestors with the RC Eng SL2-240 (240cc) Lucas injectors and now my cranking time without allowing the full 3 second key-on prime is around 1 second - huge improvement. I wonder if the regulator is allowing fuel to "return" and not holding the presure - pressure bleeding down via the "return" circuit (The regulator is a very simple, not very high quality looking part)... If it's not the regulator & not the injectors then it would have to be the pump - assuming there are no fuel line leaks, right? I think it's the regulator - I'm going to fiddle with mine - possibly replace with high quality unit.
  8. I usually blow out the oil journels with compressed air - if I dont have even flow out of every journel (from multiple directions - using different journels to input the air) I start the investigation. RTV "floaties" that have fallen off oil pans, etc have caused failures in many engines. I'm also hyper-paranoid about changing oil after a rebuild. Because of all the moly assebmly lube used during rebuild (reason cranking an engine for the 1st time after a rebuild should not be a problem) it will turn the brand new oil black in a matter of seconds. I usually start the engine, run for up to an hour (get a full heat cycle) then change the oil & filter (cut open the filter and inspect - Longacre raging products has an super cool tool for this). Based upon my findings the engine either comes out or gets new oil. Run for 50-100 miles & then change oil & filter (cut open filter again). Then one last time after another 500 miles on the 3rd oil change - then back to regular intervals. Yes each oil change with Mobil1 & filter will run you $65-70 but this will allow you to catch a problem like a bearing before it trashes a crank or rod - aka - requires machine shop work. And you are also using the oil to "flush" the engine. there is a lot of places for particals to hide in an engine and oil cooling system - this process will greatly reduce their change to damage anything if stragglers did remain behind after an engine build. But I'm on the extreme side of "cautious" when it comes to this. I hope your rebuilder (this is so "basic engine rebuild 101" I hate to mention it) Plasti-gauged the main & rod bearings when they installed the new bearings & didn't simply slap in new bearings and torque down the end caps and call it good....
  9. Mine did this to me this weekend. I found I could (from a stop), slip the clutch just enough to put load on the engine and the "decay" circuit/sequence woud begin. I have ready many places about the "decay" circuit/program in the ECU. IAC seems a possibility too. I was cruising at 3k-3.5k rpm and frequently passing cars on a 2-lane (running out 2-4 gears). It did it twice, but after a minute or 2 returned to normal. I've got the EEM manual from Lotus - I'll do some bed time reading and maybe find something. The owner's manual does mention the decay circuit/program. BTW - I also noticed that it was like the throttle was being held open (throttle plate was closing completely so it had to be on the IAC circuit) - however there was not enough fuel being delivered to drive the car - (if I let off the clutch in 1st without using the throttle the car would stall). I winder if it's a cool down, turbo saver sequence.... The one thing I do know is that I don't know......
  10. Good news - 500 miles, approx 1 week & NO LEAKS!!!!!! I simply used Permatex Ultra Black RTV & used the tapered (cut to desired opening thingy) and foreds it in the pins, around the pins, over the pins, etc. I spent a good 45 minutes cleaning and preping each axle before sealing. Seems to be paying off. I've always come from the school of thought with RTV to use just enough to get the job done - fear of smushing out inside of engines & gearboxes and floating aroung the oil/water and clogging journels. I checked the o-rings & the factory/stock sized ones do fit into the axle groove at the end, even on the Quaife (no o-ring groove). I'll still keep my eye on it simply out of habbit now, but I think I finally got it!
  11. I followed every step as Jim mentioned above (new seals, o-rings, used Lotus tool and correct collars to seat the seals, etc.) - except putting sealant on the splines. (no wear grooves on either axle stub, I did check, I have only 11k miles on car)The run-out is very tight, new gearbox. I cleaned and tried silicone again, this time with an applicator (long tube). Seemed to get much better application vs using my finger. Oil is definately coming out of the roll pins & not the seals. If this does not work (new silicone) - I'm pulling the shafts and sealing the splines, that seems the most logical to me. On the o-rings for the Quaife: When I got the box from GTO it had 2 o-rings on each output shaft. On the diff side it had the factory sized o-ring with a smaller o-ring right next to it on the wheel side (same on both sides). This made aligning the roll pin hole a massive task. Still leaked a lot! I removed both o-rings on each side (4 total) and used 2 new factory sized o-rings (1 per side) only. Alignment required a tapered drift but not excessive like when there were 2 o-rings on each side. My question is: If I wind up pulling the axles to seal the splines, should I use the small or large (factory size) o-ring when installing - I do have the Quaife. I followed the Lotus manual exactly. I may just smear the whole spline shaft with sealant ang call it good - one more try with the Lotus method....
  12. I'm right there with you ~$35-40k and 1500 miles of use in 1.5 yrs. I kind of anticipated about $15k of that in the gear box alone. I also had the dash, console & A pillars recovered (shrinking factory leather) and a full "factory" service of everything, including seals, weatherstripping, new tires, belts, water pump, cam tensioners, etc. etc. when I first got it (~$15k). Now I do everything myself. Everytime I do a job on the car I keep finding missing screws and such left out from the initial "dealer" service. When (not if) you break the stock UN1 it's $10-12k for a dealer rebuild (to stock spec) or $12-15k (parts only) to bullet-proof, Quaife & clutch it - tack another $2-4k on there to have a dealer R&R the trans. My opinion is the V8's are going to cost no less than $15k in transmission work at some point in their life - so factor that in when you buy one. I have found that by comparison to other cars, the Esprit is really not that bad to work on - ther transmission is a bit pricey compared to the American cars, but reasonable when compared to Porsche, Ferrari, etc. Other parts are similar prices to American cars, just have to wait on them from SJ if JAE doesn't have them. Once I finally jumped in and got my hands dirty - these are very easy cars to work on. With the electronics basically being GM it makes finding sensors, injectors, etc. very easy and half the price of what they cost in UK/EU. I have several other "toy" cars - this seems to be the one I gravitate to and enjoy the most. It's definately not the fastest or best handeling, comfortable, etc. of the other cars but it's the one I most enjoy. If my wife ever knew what I've spent total on this car....I can't even imagine the rage that would ensue. I've long since past the point of even recouping on the great deal I got on the car. The only thing I can see to do is simply to keep the car forever. By the time I'm finished (only have the Red Race ECU, hybrid turbos & a radiator to handle the Texas summers) the car will be absolutely perfect and IMO the way it should have come from the factory (probably the way they intended it but would have made it a $175k+ car). I do love this fragile & quirky little thing though!
  13. I am having one heck of a time getting my roll pins to stop weeping fluid!!! I have tried 3 different sealers and now I'm using J-B Weld. I filled the pins and journels before installation with silicone, leaked. Then used 3M weatherstrip adhesive & now the right side is barely leaking. Tried JB weld (4 min quick set, much easier to remove) on the end that was leaking, now the other end is leaking. Going to JB weld the other end today... Holy crap! Are these really this difficult to seal?
  14. I know this is an old post - here's my "adventure" after suffering a very similar failure: I'm down in TX - Just got my GTO "built" trans in (not leaking out the axle seals this time) after suffering a failure exactly as yours. I did all the work myself. There are many, many quirks to doing this that honestly many, many quality shops will not catch and cost you hours and $$$ to "work thru". I did the whole swap myself. If you have all the correct parts you can swap the trans in a long Saturday or easily in a full weekend. Be prepared to spend no less than $10k USD. There is a HUGE difference between the GTO "built" trans and the stock Lotus trans - I consider myself lucky all I suffered was the 2nd gear syncro (that's my guess - I haven't split the case yet). Do not drive car any further as others have mentioned - oil & metal = grinding compound - the big chunks can even break other gears as well. My suggestion - call around look for a shop to rebuild (this trans is similar to a Porsche trans so try not only the Lotus shops but Porsche, Ferrari, etc. - folks used to dealing with transaxles. Since we are in the US - transaxles are not that common by comparison). I was quoted $10k for a stock "rebuild" by my Lotus dealer - then they called back and found another shop in OH that dropped it to the $6-8k range. But at the end of the day you will wind up with exactly what you have now - a weak transmission that will most likely break in the exact same way. For roughly the same money you can buy a no-core "bulletproof" trans from GTO with the Quaife ATB and better gear ratios & a complete new clutch with stronger springs for the same money - install it yourself & have the stock trans to either sell to recoup costs or rebuild/keep. You can save $3k plus by NOT getting the Quaife ATB (limited slip), clutch, etc. The Quaife makes a HUGE difference over the open stock diff. You can keep your foot burried in the power and not worry about the rear going squirly like it does stock.
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