free hit
davevr6car's Content - Page 3 - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


Full Forum Member (FFM)
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by davevr6car

  1. Who gives a sh*t, its his car and let him do what he wants to it, and we shouldn't be so pass remarkable about other peoples ideas etc!
  2. When I was rebuilding my turbo for my S4s to S300 spec t3-4 but with a more modern and lighter compressor wheel 360' bearing etc it wouldn't line up with the original charge cooler. It was out of alignment in both height and to the side. It now sits on an Alunox manifold (which fitted perfectly) and is attached to the large Alunox charge cooler which I had to get the inlet chamber modified. I also got my greedy dump valve welded to the outlet chamber of the charge cooler instead of the usual silicone t piece location. If it doesn't fit then modify it so it does.......its only an engine!
  3. My bearings were the same when I got my S4s.......With massive play on the drivers side.......used a dremel on the remainder of the bearing to get it off. Cheap enough to replace....standard Renault bearing.........and don't believe that the lotus supplied ones are upgrades....I got my local bearing supplier to check and they are the same.
  4. It's much easier to change out the standard for to an after market type, and that's just what I did. I cut the fuel rail just before the FPR and welded on an An6 "weld on fitting" onto this I connect a raising rate adjustable FPR with built in gauge via some AN 6 fittings and braided hosing all for less than a €100. At least now I can fine tune my fueling with the rest of my mods.
  5. Yeah, S300 runs slightly higher fuel pressure than the S4s
  6. I don't care what anyone says but the brakes on the esprit are absolute cap. When I test drove my S4s for the first time I nearly went straight thru a roundabout. I did everything to fix my brakes, but from the factory they are crap. I ripped out all of the standard Abs stuff, fitted a Nissan Patrol brake servo and master cylinder. I removed my AC pump and in its place fitted an early type vacuum pump. I switched out the standard S4s brake calipers and discs and on the front fitted S350 brake rotors and AP racing 4 pot calipers, on the rear, I've fitted S350 rotors and aftermarket 4 po
  7. S300 has a T3/4 turbo and a different chip that raises the boost, they also modified the FPR by pressing a ball bearing against it to put a indent in the top to increase the fuel pressure. It has the same head as the S4s. The charge cooler rad was connected in line we the AC rad to give it extra cooling. This was a factory AC but better CC cooling.
  8. Barry, Your turbo's don't look all that bad. You can rebuild them yourself for little money. My turbo on my S4s was in similar condition. Give them a good clean up. Use some heat on those small bolts holding the hot side housing on and they should come out. I bought all the service parts on ebay for little money. When I had the turbo rebuilt I got a local turbo service company to balance it which they only charged me €50 / £35. I upgraded my turbo to a larger T3/4 configuration with 360' thrusts bearings and seals, larger compressor wheel and housing....All in it cost me circa €20
  9. only £9k, I'd be happy with that. I bought my S4s in 2006, put about 2,000 miles on it and its been off the road since 2012 for an engine rebuild, I've sunk at £22k into it and its still not on the road. I do all my own work. LOTUS should mean lots of thousands usually several.
  10. Has anyone ever tried fitting a hydraulic release bearing. There's a good few universal options available. It would also do away with having to do any adjustments.
  11. both circuits are feed by the one expansion tank, they have their own radiators. The air con pipes don't run thru the chassis, but they run thru the body sill on the passenger side. In your photo the 2 top pipes are the engine cooling circuit, the bottom ones are, 2 for the charge cooler circuit and the other 2 pipes are for the heater matrix. This is the way my S4s is done. If you want to upgrade, do away with the air con and connect the air con rad inline with the charge cooler rad. This will give you more cooling area and it will run with cooler air intake temperatures. This is the way the
  12. I redid my brakes completely on my S4s. On the rear I'm using S350 discs. I'm using the standard brembo caliper on S350 brackets for hand brake only. For actual braking I've installed 4 piston Comp brake calipers on S300 brackets with spacers in the S300 location, forward of the disc. Up front I have S350 discs and AP calipers. I have done away with the aBs system, this is a shite system no matter what anyone thinks. I'm running an SE vacuum pump in place of the AC pump. This feeds an Audi A6 vacuum reservoir which feeds a Nissan Patrol brake servo and master cylinder. I have fitted a turbo m
  13. Why not just rebuild your own, its not that difficult. I rebuilt mine for my S4s, and while I was at it upgraded it to a T4 on the cold side with a new larger compressor wheel and housing, and upgraded to a 360'bearing and seals. The parts are not expensive. All you need to do is have it balanced, and this only cost me €50 at a local turbo repair centre. Have a look at my gallery, I have some photos of the rebuild. Cheers Dave
  14. Its not the same plate as installed on the S4S
  15. Hi, Does anyone have the Garrett part number for the S300 t3\t4 turbo, or even the turbo specs. How different is it to the t3 fitted to the S4s. Cheers Dave
  16. Hi Cam, I removed mine on my S4s, for similar reasons. I live in Ireland and don't use the aircon, and if it gets too warm I just open the window which is usually open anyway to hear my engine note. I removed the pump and some of the pipe work. I reconnected the radiator into the Charge cooler rad, the same as the S300 to give me better cooling for the charge cooler, which is more power. Its your car, so if you don't want it, just remove it!
  17. I repainted all of the "red" parts on my engine while I was rebuilding it. I used a crinkle finish paint. It turned out very well, looks great when its just done. But once the dust and dirt gets on it from normal engine use it can't be cleaned that good. The dirt / grease seems to get embedded in the crinkle finish and you'll be pissed off like I am now after spending so much time in painting the covers and my engine is still on the engine stand. If I was doing it again I would use a normal high temperature gloss finish paint so it would resist the oil better and be easier to keep clean. Che
  18. I can't believe Mark you said the S4s's futura wheels were like kit car wheels. I like the S4, but I do think the standard wheels are way undersized and look like they've been taken from an opel manta gsi. The rear wing, although unique, destroys the lines on the car from the side. Paul Fowler's S4 looks great, but I would remove the spoiler, looks like too much of an aftermarket stuck on job. The S4 is the baby in the family, S4s is the big brother, and the S300 is the daddy. If you were all honest and had a choice between owning an S4 or the S4s, I think you'd choose the.... Dave, proud
  19. Hi Dave, What bHelix clutch kit would you recomend for my S4s. I'm running around 360bhp. Cheers Dave
  20. From rebuilding my own car and engine, I would definately say that this is a turbo car with an SE engine installed in it at some stage. I'd say the previous owner removed the charge cooler because he wouldn't of had the connections for the charge cooler or the rad up front. Becuase he is running a "turbo pipe" between the turbo and the inlet plenium instead of the charge cooler, he's missing the secondary injectors. Also because there's no charge cooler fitted he can't have the MAT sensor fitted. You will notice in the videos that the engine is fitted with a throttle vacuum jack, these were n
  21. Hi, I'm fitting an adjustable fuel pressure regulator to my S4s engine as part of my engine rebuild / upgrade. Does anybody know what the "base line" pressure is for the S4s so I can setup my new regulator? Cheers Dave
  22. Vulcangrey, my pipe came away from the aeroquip fitting on the cooler end of the pipe. Before I put my engine back in I'm going to replace thjese pipes with stainless steal braided ones and run them underneath the car beside the power steering pipes, instead of thru the chassis, better cooling.
  23. You could also use a acustic guitar tunner that has a built in microphone very cheap at about £20. Tune the cambelt to a G# (sharp) that is 103hz. It is extremely accurate.
  24. Be very care full using these fittings. I replaced my oil coolers and had to cut the fittings off as mention above, I used these aeroquip fittings with 2 clamps on each. I was traveling down the motor way at speed, and at high revs one of the fittings gave way. At the speed I was going, my the time I had realised and pulled the car in I had emptied most of the 8 litres all over the road and ended up spinning a big end bearing. This resulted removing the engine and I'm nearly finish a full engine rebuild coming close to €9k with a few upgrades on the way. Do not thrust these clamps. There is pl
  • Create New...