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  1. Ok, Adjusted IAC count to approx 38 with throttle plate stop screw ( is this also called minimum air rate bleed screw ?) Idle now approx 990rpm & very smooth. Car now starts, idle's & runs very well so good job done. Just been out to take my friends son out in her & she is flying at the moment, I think the combination of new sports exhaust, new charge cooler pump impellor & adjustments to TPS & IAC along with nice cold ambient temperatures tonight show just what the 2.2 engine is capable of. Thanks for all the advice from everyone, hopefully this post may help someone with a similar problem. Regards, Phil.
  2. Gentlemen, many thanks, The picture confirms the screw I need to adjust. I will have a go over the weekend. Just to confirm I have no stalling issues now but idle was a little high ( approx 1100 rpm ) which is why I checked the IAC count. I presumed this will reduce the idle speed ? Phil.
  3. Hi Danny, Still working ok I checked the IAC count last night after a 15 minute run, coolant temperature was at 80 degrees & IAC was showing around 70. Do I need to reset it via Freescan first & then check again ( ignition on count was 170 ) or can I just get her up to temp & alter the throttle plate stop screw ? Also has anyone got a picture of the throttle plate stop screw ? I can see one flat head screw just below the rubber hose on the plenum, this is pointing straight up & can be seen from the back of the engine when i'm sat in the boot, there is also what appears to be a plastic cap on the part where the throttle cable runs around a disc, this is horizontal & can be seen from the back of the engine, again under the rubber intake hose to the plenum. Many thanks, Phil.
  4. philip600


    All nine stores near Middlesbrough out of stock too, I'd have had one myself at that price:-( Phil.
  5. Update - Just been out & started her up after altering TPS settings last night ( see above ) Started ok as usual but no sign of fault Left here at tickover for 5 minutes & still no problem, tried AC, idle increased slightly, turned it off, slight decrease but no sign of low tickover or stalling, all good. Went for quick run out to warm her up & put some fuel in & she is driving like a dream If fact she was flying, probably in part due to the drop in ambient temperature since last week. Parked her up in the garage while I had my tea & just been out to start her up again & still ok so it looks like it may well have been the TPS being out of adjustment. Don't understand why so perhaps someone can explain. If the TPS voltage increases when the throttle is pressed & mine was originally at 0.75 volts ( insteasd of 0.49v )this would have told the ecu the throttle was open more than it was ( please correct me if I'm wrong ) So on this principle the tickover should have been higher, no ? Could it have something to do with the new exhaust being more free flowing ? If it's solved the fault I'm more than happy but would just like to understand why it could effect it so much. Other querry is that if the voltage readings where too high for a given throttle position could this cause the engine to run rich ? Any information on what problems the TPS would cause if it was incorrectly set would be appreciated. I also had a look at the back box & cat pipe I took off & they are actually quite sooty black as wel so it looks like this has not changed. I'd like to thank everybody for all the help in sorting this ( & Peter for offer of a loan of an O2 sensor ) Many thanks, Phil.
  6. Me again, Had an idea last night but not sure if it will work. Would it be possible to unplug the O2 sensor & start the engine ? I know the CEL will come on but wondered if I could try this to see if the O2 was at fault ? Phil.
  7. Hi Sailorbob, thanks for the info, I'm a bit clearer with how it works now. Dan, EBPV was already disabled before I bought the car. Valve was wired open & vacuum pipe from solonoid plugged. The throttle jack is still present & has a short section of rubber tube that has been plugged off, again before I bought the car. Is this ok ? I know they advise removing the throttle jack but thought this gave high tickover if they jam ? Obviously the EBPV now gone. Plugged freescan in briefly tonight & adjusted TPS, initially it was showing 0.75v at zero & 4.73v at 100% This was adjusted to give 0.49v at zero & 4.59v at 100%. Couldn't start it up as it was late & it's pretty loud now, don't want to upset the neighbours I've been reading more posts about O2 sensors tonight & as Bibs said there are quite a few with similar problems after replacing it with non standard ones ? Will hopefully get chance to start her up tomorrow & if adjusting TPS has made no difference I'll have to order an original Lotus O2 sensor & hope it's that. Many thanks to all who have posted suggestions, I do appreciate all this advice. Phil.
  8. Hi Martin, I will try to get to the meeting but it will depend on my work load that day. I am self employed but do have to log all my work for the day & collect the next days work on my computer when I get in which can take an hour or more so it depends what time I get in. I will let you know either way though on Tuesday. I will also hopefully be going to the Malton Specialist Cars meeting on 16th October, is anyone else going ? Phil.
  9. No, the OP is correct, the yellow ones are much faster & look much nicer than any other colour
  10. Hi, According to Freescan this is exactly what it is doing. Can someone help me with this question though. Am I correct in thinking the O2 sensor tells the ECU how much oxygen is in the exhaust & from this reading the ECU works out the fuel / air ratio for optimum performance depending on other factors ie temperature, speed etc. Freescan only shows the voltage oscillating up & down between 0.1 & 0.9 volts which I presume is rich & lean but what if the sensor is faulty & telling the ECU the is x amount of oxygen why if fact the amount is y ? Or put it another way the oxygen reading is say 0.4 volts but it is reading this as 0.9 volts ? Does this make sense or have I got it completely wrong ? Another quick question if that's ok, if the O2 sensor takes a few minutes to warm up & work properly, what controls the fueling when the engine is first started ? Reason I ask is that on a carb engine similar symptoms would suggest that the choke has been left out too long or pushed in too soon ? Regards, Phil.
  11. Hi All, I received a reply from SJS who has suggested thit is doubtful the problem is the O2 sensor as it takes a few minutes to go to 'closed loop' & only then does it affect fueling ? This fault happens within 20 or 30 seconds after starting ? He has said It could be faulty though & I can either buy an original type sensor from them & send this one back to test or send it back anyway but this would mean the car off the road. If it's faulty they will then refund the cost. I tried to get the old one out but it's going nowhere & looking at the wires I doubt it could be repaired even enough just to try it. I did read about sensors but thought it was mainly cheap e-bay ones etc I would have thought it doubtfull SJS would supply sensors that didn't work ? Not sure where to go next other then connect Freescan back up & double check all parameters. It'll be something simple no doubt !! Thanks, Phil.
  12. Hi Dan, That would have been the first thing to try but it is in poor condition & my attempts to remove it only succeeded in snapping one of the wires off, hence the reason to replace it. It would be good to try it though so I have soaked it with WD40 & will attempt to get it out to to give it a try if only to eliminate it as a possible cause. Will let you know. Phil.
  13. Hi David, I am starting to wonder about the O2 sensor although I bought it off SJS so hoped it would be of satisfactory quality even though it is not a genuine Lotus one. I think I'll e-mail them about it & see what they say, it does seem a strange coincidence that the problem occured since I fitted it. I did wonder if if was giving poor readings until it warms up a bit. Thanks, Phil.
  14. Hi again, I didn't have a lot of time to plug Freescan back in over the weekend but I did check all air lines suggested & also cleaned the plugs & sockets for the TPS, IAC, & O2 sensor & checked the spark plugs ( these where all nice brown colour ) but fault still there. What I did notice was that the car will start fine when cold, warm & hot but within 20/30 seconds the problem starts with an initial drop in tickover & a reluctance to rev if the throttle is pressed, sometimes pressing it just stalls it other times there is a delay & then the engine will rev but sometimes misfires. If I try to drive off the engine dies & sometimes stalls. Within a minute or so of this it all settles down & behaves normally. Will hopefully have some time to plug it back in this week & have another go. Phil
  15. Hi, I'm no expert but what you describe above is my understanding of how they should work. Update on mine - today I flushed about 1 litre of fluid through to each of the back brakes to put new fluid in the system & ensure there is no air left. ( after bleeding the master cylinder, see above post ) Been out for road test tonight & at last my brakes work On a dry road I can now get the anti-lock to operate where as before they would never work enough for it to be needed. There is much more feel there now & initial bite is much improved. The feel of the brakes isn't as good as most modern cars & I'm running green stuff pads all round & I'm not sure how these normally feel but I now have confidence to drive the car knowing that it will stop quickly if needed. I'm happy now Regards, Phil.
  16. Hi Nigel, Many thanks for the picture, very helpfull. Regards, Phil.
  17. Hi Dan, The readings on the sensor diagnostics page were .7volts while at idle with a zero in the scaled box, then when the throttle was pressed the scaled box showed a reading & the volts value changed as well. It says in the manual that the TPS volts & scaled values should very between 0.45 & 4.5 volts while slowly depressing the throttle. Also with ignition on the throttle position shows 0 & when the pedal is pressed fully down it shows 100, is this reading taken form the TPS, & if so I can take it the sensor is set correctly ? I'm concerned about the sooty exhaust, could air leaks cause the engine to run rich ? I will also re-check values with the engine warm but was trying to see if anything was amiss whilst it was first started as this is when the problem occurs, after a few minutes it settles down & runs fine ? Many thanks, Phil.
  18. Hi, The standard Oz wheels on my S4S where refurbished before I bought the car but I wondered if they originally had little Oz stickers on the outer rim ? If so, has anyone gor a picture of what they look like. Thanks, Phil.
  19. Hi, Count me in. My S4S brakes where terrible when I bought the car but Ive cleaned the sensors & that improved things but pedal travel & 'feel' was inconsistent & did not give me much confidence in them. Since then I unplugged all three solonoids to try them without the ABS but although the pedal felt better the brakes were still inadequate. Strangely when I plugged it all back they seemed to be better. I decided to have another go the other day & bled the master cylinder as decribed on here ( pump pedal 40 times, have cup of tea etc & then pedal half way down while turning ignition on ) the pedal is now much firmer. They still don't work too good though so this weekend I am going to flush through some new fluid & bleed them all as I suspect the back ones are not working as well as they should, will let you know how this goes but definately interested in any info you have as I too you prefer to keep my car standard. I was reading a car mag from 1995 with a full test of the S4S & they commented how good the brakes where, so they did work well when new. Regards, Phil.
  20. Hi, You suggest looking for air leaks, by this do you mean vacuum leaks on the inlet manifold ? In the freescan manual it says to check MAP values & if these are the same as Barometer readings suspect vacuum leaks but my MAP value was 0.55 against 0.85 BAR so does this suggest no leaks or could there still be leaks somewhere ? ( Freescan says MAP should be 0.45 - 0.5 ) The engine was not fully warmed when the IAC value above was taken ( running for about 5 minutes ) Earlier in this post I took the car for a run & IAC value was down to 40. How quickly would it normally reduce to the lower value ? I was thinking about the IAC as it suggested in the servive notes you kindly posted that if the IAC is disconnected & the fault is still apparent ( which it was ) the IAC valve cannot be the culprit. Is it possible though that the valve is not moving & is stuck in a position that is ok for a warm engine but when cold it is causing it to stall ? I presume the readings given in Freescan are what the ECU is sending to the valve in order for it to move to the correct position & therfore does not prove the valve is actually working ? Appreciate your time & input on this. Kind regards, Phil.
  21. Check your TPS voltages too. If it's outside .45 to .7v but you're getting the proper IAC count your base throttle plate stop could be out. TPS voltage seems fine with values as above when the throttle is pressed. In closed loop is the o2 swinging either way above and below .5v. If so your o2 sensor should be fine. Again, this seems fine & swings form 0 to 0.9. With Tech 1 there's a fuel interpreter which if over 128 is adding fuel and if under 128 is leaning. If freescan has something similar that shows fuel is being added you could also suspect an air leak. This was showing 127 at idle. Your spark at idle (hot) should be around 5-11degs. This was 14.8 with warm engine. I plugged Freescan in tonight after replacing a couple of vacuum hoses & checking all connections, I also removed the plenumn chamber & fitted a new gasket. With ignition on it was showing - IAC - 170 Desired Idle - 1387 MAP - 0.9 Barometer - 0.85 O2 Volt - 0.462 Spark Advance - 74.9 BLM - 127 BLM Cell - 19 After start up it showed the following after a few minutes but the problem was still present. IAC - 240 dropping to about 70 after a few minutes. Desired idle - 2237 MAP - 0.55 Barometer - 0.85 Spark Advance - 14.8 BLM - 127 BLM Cell 19 After a couple of minutes of poor idling & a few stalls it all settles down & is fine. If I try to drive away whilst this is happening it dies & you have to rev it to get it going although sometimes this doesn't work & even though the throttle is partially open the engine will not pick up. I tried unplugging the IAC & it made no difference so I suspect this shows the IAC is fine ? Any further suggestions or comments on the above readings ? No fault codes showing up. Regards, Phil.
  22. Thanks Dan, I'll get Freescan plugged back in tonight & check a few more things. You say if over 128 is adding fuel & under is leaning but in my Freescan book it states the opposite ? ( BLM contents ) It says ideal is 128, values less are ok ( presume this is rich ? ) but above this it is running lean, seek advice ? With the exhaust being sooty I'm now thinking it may be an air leak. Will let you know how I get on. Regards, Phil.
  23. Hi, Excuse my ignorance but whats the EMH manual ? If it was an air leak would it not do this all the time or could it improve once warm ? Is there an easy way to check for air leaks ? Could this cause exhaust to be sooty ? Many thanks, Phil.
  24. Hi, The reading was stable once warm but it was up to 240 when initially started & it states maximum 170 in Freescan book ? This is why i thought it was the IAC. I have noticed tonight though that the exhaust looks a bit sooty ? don't think it was this bad before, could this be linked ? Once warm the car is running fine. The O2 sensor was from SJS ( £ 50.00 one ? ) Another thought is that I recently removed the plemnum cover to access the charge cooler but I made sure It was re-sealed well & I did drive it after this work was done & this fault was not apparent, it appears to have only occured since the exhaust / lambda sensor were changed although this could be coincidence. I'm open to anymore suggestions but will check for air leaks as well. Thanks, Phil.
  25. Thanks again, Took it out & found the 'o' ring was persished & split. Cleaned the valve & replaced 'o' ring but still the same, looks like a replacement is required. Phil.
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