Gibbie

Hi Tom Are u doing a Cambelt change? If so the triple pulley needs to come off. I would have a machine shop put it on the lathe and remove the burring. Then need to assess the extent of out of balance because of the missing material. If you have any one local who does general engine balancing, I would have it rebalanced before refitting. good luck with the project! Kind Regards Paul

Hi Tom im sure your plan to clean and then monitor is a good one. In my case when I got my S4 the oil was coming from the seal between the cam towers and the cylinder head! I hope you end up with a better outcome. happy New Year Paul

Hi Rob so very sad to hear your news. Let’s hope it proves to be incorrect. Ive admired your “how hard can it be?” approach to your projects and the superb engineering you brought to bear on all tasks! With very best wishes from us in Southampton. Paul G

Hi Mike is this still available? if so please let me know the costs? kind Regards Paul

Hi Chris no free samples sadly, and initially a min order requirement of 100! But I managed eventually to get an order of 6 units agreed. May I send you a pair to try next time u do the drive shaft seals? No cost but I’ll need an address to post them to you - however we arrange that? Kind Regards Paul

Just in case this is of interest to anyone out there - although I use a Burroughs gauge to set the belt tension I’ve been keen to move to sonic measurement as per the Clavis gauge that Lotus recommend. I’ve previously had no luck with using a microphone and an app on my iPhone. Almost random results with little repeatability. but recently saw this advertised at affordable money, around £85. Its turned out to be reliable and repeatable with consistent results. Kind Regards Paul G

Hi Sparky Thanks for info and encouragement! Success! Used one of theses spanners 19 mm to hold the adjuster nut and a long series 17 mm socket to move the lock nut. Took a while to physically get the tools in place, but most grateful for your input! kind Regards Paul G

Thanks Sparky! Ill give it a go. Kind Regards Paul G

I’ve done the recommended 500 miles after the belt change in my S4 - and have now rechecked the cam belt tension which appears to be too loose. My question to you experts is - is it possible to adjust the belt tensioner without removing all the other belts and crankshaft pulley? the access looks pretty restricted! I’ve just been under there! kind Regards Paul G

Hi Stimpy sorry to hear of your troubles. Have you considered Geoff at Esprit engineering in Downton? Very knowledgable and Straight guy. just a thought. kind Regards Paul G

Good idea Chris! I’ve asked them - keep u posted! kind Regards Paul

Chris I’m tempted to try these next time I need to do this job! Good suggestion of yours. https://www.accu.co.uk/885-spiral-roll-pins#elasticsearch_id_feature_402397=402397_699&elasticsearch_id_feature_402390=402390_16&id_elasticsearch_category=885&orderby=ranking&orderway=asc So, I would just use the one pin, no second smaller pin. The critical dimensions seem to be 6mm diameter by 50 mm length. sadly the minimum order is 100 units! kind Regards Paul

Hi Paul, I have an insertion tool that I've lent out before. I'd be going out on a limb having not met you but if you would like to borrow it and promise, promise, promise to return it then I can post it to you. I know what it is like to need an expensive special tool just once in a while that you know are out there sitting idle most of the time. Hi Chris all back together and drive shaft seals dry so far! not sure where you are based but I’m in Southampton. If I can ever do anything for you down this way please don’t hesitate to ask. Kind Regards Paul

Hi Filip and Chris No, I checked the tool for clearance in the absence of a seal and all was well. Today, I installed the offside seal and it went in with a lot less hammering. No change in preparation. Transmission aperture ,cleaned and degreased. New seal inserted into tool, seal edge dressed with Wellseal. Tool and seal mounted on output shaft. Tool hammered until collar was tight. So no explanation for that. As for pin insertion - I always established that the u/j was correctly orientated on the output shaft by checking that a 6 mm drill would pass through the whole assembly. Next I orientate the assembly such that I’m inserting the pins from the side of the joint that has a countersink. Then I squirt the sealant down from the top until it ones out the bottom. I pop the 6 mm drill shank back in the mating hole for about an inch from above. Then I tap in the 6.5 mm pin. When it displaces the drill shank I refill the hole with sealant. Next I hammer in the 3 mm pin after having smothered it in the sealant. Then I seal around each pin exit zone. Done. For what it’s worth, I confirm that the whole job can be done from below without removing the boot floor. U will need, from time to time, to rotate the drive shaft to get clearance between the transmission and your pins and punches. I use a 3mm punch to punch through the small pin, removing it completely. When it’s out - the pressure on the big pin is reduced and it punches thro quite easily with a 6mm punch. I’m sure all the above is known by most of the forum members but it may help somebody. Kind Regards Paul G

Hi Chris just to say a further thanks to you for your very kind offer of a loan of the magic seal tool! Steve (@SJS) was as good as his word and my insertion tool arrived yesterday. So, today I set to and inserted the near side seal and pins. One side, therefore, now back together! I was taken aback by the heavy hammering that was required to insert the seal and then again to insert the lock pins! Is this normal? Have you had the same experience? Kind Regards Paul