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trackmagic last won the day on March 25 2010

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About trackmagic

  • Birthday 16/06/1964

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  • Name
    jeff rodrigues
  • Car
    1983 turbo esprit

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  1. The extra holes in the cover is a modification made to help eliminate the "bog" some carbureted Esprit's have on hard right hand corners. Have you checked or replaced the floats? Mentioned earlier was making sure all you vacuum/ boost lines are routed correctly. There are few that are very had to see around the plenum. Your cruising AFR is mainly off of the idle jet. If it looks correct (AFR), and the main jet matches the spec of that of the Lotus spec, my guess is your fuel pressure isn't compensating for boost, float level is off, wrong float weight, wrong float valve, fuel restriction, etc. This is assuming someone (other than yourself) has been making any changes to the car. Good luck-Jeff
  2. I have an 83 and can tell you from experience is to install a AFR gauge. Innovate is the one I use and its invaluable in seeing what exactly is going on while driving. The backfire when you shut the car off is either; 1. leak at the exhaust manifold at the cylinder head. 2. To lean on idle mixture. The number 4 exhaust nuts will loosen up so check them . I have ARP stainless studs/nuts installed and I have to check them periodically. The light throttle (off idle) stumble I found to be the accel pump jets dumping too much fuel. I eventually went to the smallest which I think are a 33. On warmup (when using the choke) the ignition advance will go to full advance to help idle. Once the car reaches operating temperature it shuts off the advance (even if you don't move the choke pull). Try setting your initial ignition timing to 12 degree BTDC and turn the idle screws out to the highest steady throttle (its about 4-5 turns off bottom) . Adjust the idle sped to about 950RPM. Another thing to try is If your car still has the 52 idle jets try bumping up to the 56. Leave the rest of the jets alone. If you get super adventurous……. Install new floats, float needles and set the fuel level to 27mm. (google it) Best, Jeff
  3. Having had mine recently replaced I would advise you to have a glass guy install it. Find someone who specializes in classic cars or the like. After seeing what they had to do I am glad I didn't try it myself. One of the most important steps is applying the primer to the glass. My paint guy used some really good fine line tape so the glass guy could apply a clean line of primer around the windshield. Best, Jeff
  4. My 83 "had" them as well. Most likely they are carboned up and are stuck. Maybe spray some WD-40 (or similar) to dissolve the gunk and yank them out. I had the head off when I removed mine. Best, Jeff
  5. John, Try going up to 60 on the idle jets, I am currently running those at the moment. You can get them from CB Performance (Claudes Buggies) in So Cal or you can order the originals online. If you dont have the tool to adjust the (tamper proof) idle mixture screws on the Esprit you can also order the standard replacements that allow you to use a flat blade screwdriver. You will see the exploded views on CB's website to the parts needed. I have been down this road so feel free to email me pics or questions. If you dont have the factory service/ parts manuals I would recommend you join (fee) this site to get access to them via this site. If your car is missing the emissions decal under the rear boot I can send you a photo. Best, Jeff [email protected]
  6. I believe my 83 has the same jetting (Nor Cal). What size idle jets do you have? You spend much of your "cruising" speed on this circuit. Best, Jeff
  7. They are 17mm (BBS) and VW made a few varieties for their cars. Jeff
  8. Some good info below. Maybe someone can reformat for better posting Jeff
  9. I would want to know what head gasket you are using? I had somewhat the same issue (oil passage leak) and then went to the Goetze head gasket which did the trick. It utilizes a rubber seal in this area. If the cylinder "nip" is a little on the high side, surfacing the head isn't going to do much good, unless as mentioned earlier, it has a big bow. For some outside the box thinking I would pull the head... 1. Check for flatness of the head 2. Check the "nip" . I think the book says .005 is OK but will the head seal on the outer edge? That would depend on the crush you get on the head gasket sealing rings. 3. I would then consider doing what is done on sealing aircraft engine cases (air cooled). They call for a #00 silk thread to be placed between the case halves upon assembly (google/ youtube). Since it looks like the cylinder crush rings are doing there job, focus on this area. If you did this around the perimeter of the block you might get a bit more squish to ensure a good seal. I would consider Aviation Permatex sealant to hold it in place. Note: If someone has used a some type of abrasive around the block edge to clean off the old gasket, chances are that is the culprit as there is no way to ensure the surface is flat. Good luck, Jeff
  10. I remember this stuff needing a special water pump (or something to that nature) as it was more viscous than normal antifreeze solution. One thing you should research is the use of distilled vs mineral water. The last bit of information I found was that distilled tended to "go back to normal" by stripping the metal off aluminum, hence mineral (not tap) was what was recommended to mix with antifreeze. You could do the next best thing by purchasing the pre-mix solutions. I tend to stick with the manufactures finding as they have the bankroll to test this stuff thoroughly. I currently use Inugel from Motul but would be just as happy to use what Honda or Toyota put in their all aluminum motors. Best, Jeff
  11. Giorgio, If that is the case you might look at this article for some info on that subject. Best, Jeff
  12. Hondabond, Yamabond are available from your local motorcycle dealer (Honda, Yamaha). I believe it is also equivalent to Threebond. All good stuff for gasket holding or if you have smooth machined surfaces to seal. Jeff
  13. Giorgio Something to consider. Unless your car is for "track" use only I would shy away from a lighter flywheel. Yes, it will help in acceleration but it decelerates just as fast. What you will notice in street use is it being harder to maintain a cruising speed, which can be a bit annoying in my experience. The stock flywheel is pretty light as is. The other thing is it works as a vibration dampener. The 2.2 is a bit of a buzz motor and reducing the reciprocating mass will most likely make it more noticeable. Again, if its for racing, who cares........ but for street use? Best, Jeff
  14. If it has the rubber as opposed to the copper sealing ring for the oil passage. Best, Jeff
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