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    Mike Griese
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  1. Are these frame for the door glass?
  2. I have no idea really. Being from the US, I don't often get to see those cars to compare.
  3. I've looked - Neither has everything. I am hoping to find someone who is parting out an S3 (that wasn't hit in the rear).
  4. What do your spark plugs say? Have you looked at carb jetting? Is there any particular RPM range that is more problematic? Dellortos have two fueling circuits - idle and main. The switchover from idle to main is around 3000 rpm give or take. I had a similar problem with a Federal '83 Turbo. It would buck and spit at mid RPM briefly until it warmed up (not quite the same as your problem but similar). Going up one step on the idle jets took care of the problem, as the idle circuit would lean out just before the fueling circuit switchover when the engine was cold. Once it was warmed up, it wasn't as much of an issue unless you stayed right in the crossover range.
  5. I am looking for a complete rear hatch latch/release mechanism that activates through the rear spoiler via a key lock. These are the parts...
  6. I am finishing up putting the St Tropez back together and have run in to a snag. On federal cars, the throttle cable emerges from the passenger compartment on the left hand side and curves along the left hand side engine compartment bulkhead to a fixture attached to the cam carrier. The cable pulls the throttle lever open from the left hand side of the engine. The throttle return spring extends from the carb side of the plenum to the throttle lever. On RHD cars, the throttle cable emerges on the right hand side of the engine compartment and approaches the carbs from underneath the plenum. I can't figure out how this arrangement is supposed to work, and the pictures I took of disassembly don't show enough of the arrangement to be of much use. Could someone with a UK car lend some insight into how this is supposed to work?
  7. The only time you should have to replace those bearings is if they are allowing bypass air into the carbs. Very rare. To remove the float shaft, press it out with a small drift - it is just a light friction fit.
  8. The circlip is a thin wiry thing that retains the input shaft in the primary shaft. There is a groove cut into the inside of the primary shaft where the circlip normally resides. There is a taper in the input shaft from the splines where they insert into the primary shaft. To see and remove the clip, push the input shaft into the gearbox against the spring. The taper will move into the primary shaft and you should be able to see the circlip and grab it with a pair of pliers. If the circlip is not there, you should be able to just pull the input shaft out.
  9. I've got room for them in a heated, dry space, but shipping would be killer...
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