Sharky

Just had mine done and was surprised at the rather poor non-symmetrical tow and camber before hand. Its just over a year old and obviosuly not perfect from the factory. I still have the brackets for the brake sensor in there too. because warranty etc. I originally wanted them out, but happy they are there and anyway, the camber may need some fine tuning so wont be the last time its in for geo. Only a short drive home so far and the car feels much better. Much more like my previous Lotus cars. Track day at the end of the month for first proper test.

I suspect they are going to be more at risk from people getting out unsighted than getting in.

Cool, thanks for that. Are the skirts fixed with adhesive tape too? I also wondered whether the boot holes are all in a straight line or offset. They look to be in the drawing but obviously it's not intended to be a perfect representation. An offset on the fixings would impart more strength potentially. The reason I say this is that there was a video kicking about of someone standing on a similar skirt on a hyper car and ripping it right off. Made me shudder

Would you be able to show the fixings underneath the car? Plenty of finished pictures of skirt options but few that show how they were mounted and what the result looks like underneath. If you have such a pic it would be very helpful.

Nice looking car, congratulations

Sweet.

Great result with the DBEaters. Without doubt that's going to be the best approach. Out of interest, is it a road or track system you have. I.e. was it trying to be quiet before you started or was it a louder road system?

Hmm, now questioning it. Might have cross contaminated the options lists provided by the dealer.

So, I took the plunge and decided to do this. I could always put it back on. Here's how it went. I started, as I do when removing anything sticker like, by boiling a kettle. Partly for the necessary cup of tea , but also as I find hot water is very good at making it easier to remove sticky stuff. I didn't know how the sticky pads were orientated to understand where to start. To be honest trying to get any purchase on the holder was difficult. Partly fat fingers maybe but I found it easier to get the tips of my fingers behind the holder bottom right. Don't try along the top edge, it's too tight. Theres a little gap so I used this to pour in a bit of hot water to help the process. Also poured along the top. It's a bit of a big pull to start during which you start to question what you're doing, but with the help of the heat of the water, it began to come away. It still hurt the tips of the fingers. Note that the number plate plinth will bend a bit. Take it easy teasing a little more each time so as not to damage the plinth. After getting it started I was conscious to be very careful of marking the paint. It turns out the Plinth is pretty sharp at the edges making it very easy to mark the clam. I ended up with a very slight mark but barely visible. If I was doing it again I would slip some decent weighted paper between the plinth and the clam as a precaution. I would also potentially start the pull from both sides rather than just one so it was lifted away from the surface. After removed I was faced with the obvious residue and dirt from the year. After the first pass wash I was a little disheartened as there was a clear shade difference between the black under the plinth and that which was exposed. However a second pass with Intensive Tar Remover, it's all good. I had a short rear plate from my S1 Exige to put on. It's a standard legal plate. I don't think it looks too bad but will look into getting a slightly smaller one...maybe. All in all I'm happy with the result. Standard plate looks fine. It definitely changes the look and it accentuates the wide arse on the car. not too difficult to do and easily reversible.

Love the photos with the Lancaster

Using your axle stands might be better. its less convenient but safer

Its all vapour-ware until you can actually buy it. Its 'promising' that there are signs that an aftermarket option for chargecooled blowers might be something that becomes available in the future. If one tuner does it then others will too. The actual system components come from Harrop, so if there's a market which I think there would be, then tuners are going to put something together.

Looks very promising.

Nice one. How did you go about it? Did you use a fishing line or just brute force?

Funny, I hadn't thought about the Matt paint fading in the sun. I'm game for removing if it can be done without damaging the paint surface or the plinth. It could always be re affixed if it could. I'm just not game to do it first