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nic996

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  • Name
    nic
  • Car
    Esprit S3 NA
  • Modifications
    adjustable coilovers
  • Location
    munich

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  1. Its a manual tensioner. It’s owner error. And a fresh engine rebuild. Albeit 6 years ago. But it’s only just going now 😳
  2. Thanks for the input. The exhaust is bloody loud! Tunnel tested today. My first born was very pleased and he likes all things very loud! Perhaps a little over tensioned then. Thanks again!
  3. Hello all. Merry Christmas first of all! I haven’t had my car on the road for long and I have no comparisons but the cam belt is fairly loud. It whines like a supercharger in the first bmw minis. (Sorry, it’s the only comparison I have.) Is this normal? Or is it a little tight? I did the tension by measuring frequency. cheers nic.
  4. @jonwat fwd gearboxes have a solid input shaft through the entire gearbox so they don’t need to be supported at the crank end. @AndyPG the engine was supplied reconditioned without the bearing. The old one was still in the old engine when it was exchanged. @910Esprit advice duly noted. Thanks.
  5. Publicly shaming myself here but I found the issue. A lesson to other diy mechanics. Having only ever fitted clutches to fwd cars, I didn’t know about the spigot bearing and neglected to fit one. The clutch has been bouncing around a bit. Luckily the gearbox is fine and only my pride is damaged. Problem solved. Thanks for the suggestions. nic.
  6. Yes. I’m inclined to agree that there’s a problem with the gearbox.
  7. Exactly right. Pulling away in second produces the same problem as well I just found out.
  8. I should add that I ruled out linkage mal-adjustment by disconnecting the linkage and putting into first gear by hand at the gearbox end. Made no difference. Still grinds before it gets off the line. Also I just tried to pull away in second gear and it’s the same problem.
  9. I checked and adjusted the clutch. It’s no better. The thing is, it only happens when the car is at a standstill and I give anything more than 1500rpm. And it only happens when the clutch bite is found. Otherwise it goes into gear no problem. It’s as if the gears are not meshing properly when the car is not rolling but fine when underway.
  10. The clutch did cross my mind. The clutch hose is already ss. I will have another go at bleeding the clutch and adjusting the arm. Thanks for the input.
  11. Hi all, i have a strange issue with a freshly rebuilt gearbox. When I pull away in first or reverse I get a crunch unless I’m extremely cautious with the clutch. Otherwise it works well once underway with nice clean gearshifts. I thought syncros but there is no reverse syncro and the effect is identical. Can anyone make any suggestions? cheers nic.
  12. Ok guys. Confirmation on the master cylinder. For Bendix equipped S3s and early Stevens cars(85 to 92) The OEM part number is: 251611021C (fits a t2, t25 and t3 vw van/bus) The part number is got is: 1161100700 (I think made by Brax but the oem number is good enough to get the correct part) There are 4 outlets for brake pipes. I bought an m10x1.0 blanking plug. Total price was under €40. I got it from Amazon and it arrived next day. It was a considerable time and cost saving over the usual specialists. Less than half the price and it’s exactly the same part. Hope someone finds this helpful. Thanks to Pete for confirmation of the correct brake fluid too. Nic.
  13. Hi all, the brakes on my post 85 S3 have failed without turning a wheel. The pedal goes to the floor with no leaks and the fluid in the reservoir is spilling over when I reinsert the reservoir cap. I suspect the master cylinder is at fault. The master cylinder is a brand new item from SJ but has been fitted to the car for a couple of years. (The restoration being painfully slow). I trawled through the forum to find out if there is a cross reference part and which fluid to use. There seems to be varying answers from a VW Transporter (T2 or T5) to a Ford Capri for the part itself and Dot-3, Dot-4 and Dot-5.1 fluid. (There does seem to be consensus that Dot-5 is to be avoided). Can anyone provide a definitive answer to the above fluid and cross reference parts ? I’m fairly certain that the master cylinder has failed so no need to reply to that unless it’s a common issue that has been experienced and can be rectified without fitting a new master cylinder or replacing the seals. It would be good to have one solid reply so that it is easy for others to search in the future. Any help, as always, much appreciated. Nic.
  14. Lhd and rhd esprits go for similar money here in Germany if they go at all (according to what i observe in the national advert websites anyway) and they are incredibly rare. Two reasons why. They were never officially sold on mainland Europe and people are frightened of them. I have looked at ads for all esprits and they seem to stay there for a very long time. I suppose you could argue easily against buying one as 911s are plentiful and there are garages on every corner that know them inside out. You have to be able to maintain an esprit yourself and partial or full restoration is definitely a diy job. Again the issue certainly in Munich is that people mostly live in apartments and using a garage as a workshop is nigh on impossible so you are forced to either, buy a house in the suburbs (Germans generally rent) that has a garage, rent a workshop (expensive and rarer than an esprit, or have it repaired/restored by a professional. There are numerous places here that will restore and Porsche or BMW. A lotus? Not really. If I didn’t have the skills I’d probably buy a 911 myself but when the sun comes out I can guarantee my car will be turning heads amongst the sea of Porsches!!
  15. Well it seems this saga was not quite finished. Another little drama to add. . I finally got some temporary plates and took it for the first drive. A very short 2 minutes to the petrol station and back. By the time I returned, reverse has gone again. Plus the added stress of an appointment at the Dyno tomorrow to get the engine set up in order to pass the emissions for the TÜV (MOT) on Friday. By luck, I spotted the problem straight away. I have made a modification that seems to have permanently fixed it too. Over a month of messing about and extreme frustration and the problem was diagnosed and fixed in twenty minutes. The problem is that there is a sleeve over the crossgate cable that slides up and down the cable and leaves the cable exposed where it passes through the gearbox mount. Where it’s exposed, it buckles and effectively shortens the cable and prevents the cable from functioning properly. I found an extra nut, welded a small washer on the end and screwed onto the remaining thread on the gearbox mount point. It nicely retains the sleeve and keeps the cable enclosed. Job done and all gears functioning well. I have attached some pics of the fix. The welding is rougher than a badgers backside as it was 10pm and I didn’t want to go crazy with the grinder and really upset the neighbours. I would say I will do it properly in the future but it’s robust and i know it will be left as is 😄 i forgot to take a picture of the final assembly but the photos should be enough to show how it works. Now I expect somebody to pipe up and tell me that’s how it should have been in the first place and I had a piece missing all along. Either way it’s works...... finally. Saga over. I hope.
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