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nic996

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About nic996

  • Rank
    LOTUS

More Info

  • Name
    nic
  • Car
    Esprit S3 NA
  • Modifications
    adjustable coilovers
  • Location
    munich

Recent Profile Visitors

4,462 profile views
  1. @jonwat fwd gearboxes have a solid input shaft through the entire gearbox so they don’t need to be supported at the crank end. @AndyPG the engine was supplied reconditioned without the bearing. The old one was still in the old engine when it was exchanged. @910Esprit advice duly noted. Thanks.
  2. Publicly shaming myself here but I found the issue. A lesson to other diy mechanics. Having only ever fitted clutches to fwd cars, I didn’t know about the spigot bearing and neglected to fit one. The clutch has been bouncing around a bit. Luckily the gearbox is fine and only my pride is damaged. Problem solved. Thanks for the suggestions. nic.
  3. Yes. I’m inclined to agree that there’s a problem with the gearbox.
  4. Exactly right. Pulling away in second produces the same problem as well I just found out.
  5. I should add that I ruled out linkage mal-adjustment by disconnecting the linkage and putting into first gear by hand at the gearbox end. Made no difference. Still grinds before it gets off the line. Also I just tried to pull away in second gear and it’s the same problem.
  6. I checked and adjusted the clutch. It’s no better. The thing is, it only happens when the car is at a standstill and I give anything more than 1500rpm. And it only happens when the clutch bite is found. Otherwise it goes into gear no problem. It’s as if the gears are not meshing properly when the car is not rolling but fine when underway.
  7. The clutch did cross my mind. The clutch hose is already ss. I will have another go at bleeding the clutch and adjusting the arm. Thanks for the input.
  8. Hi all, i have a strange issue with a freshly rebuilt gearbox. When I pull away in first or reverse I get a crunch unless I’m extremely cautious with the clutch. Otherwise it works well once underway with nice clean gearshifts. I thought syncros but there is no reverse syncro and the effect is identical. Can anyone make any suggestions? cheers nic.
  9. Ok guys. Confirmation on the master cylinder. For Bendix equipped S3s and early Stevens cars(85 to 92) The OEM part number is: 251611021C (fits a t2, t25 and t3 vw van/bus) The part number is got is: 1161100700 (I think made by Brax but the oem number is good enough to get the correct part) There are 4 outlets for brake pipes. I bought an m10x1.0 blanking plug. Total price was under €40. I got it from Amazon and it arrived next day. It was a considerable time and cost saving over the usual specialists. Less than half the price and it’s exactly the same part. Hope someone finds t
  10. Hi all, the brakes on my post 85 S3 have failed without turning a wheel. The pedal goes to the floor with no leaks and the fluid in the reservoir is spilling over when I reinsert the reservoir cap. I suspect the master cylinder is at fault. The master cylinder is a brand new item from SJ but has been fitted to the car for a couple of years. (The restoration being painfully slow). I trawled through the forum to find out if there is a cross reference part and which fluid to use. There seems to be varying answers from a VW Transporter (T2 or T5) to a Ford Capri for the part itself and D
  11. Lhd and rhd esprits go for similar money here in Germany if they go at all (according to what i observe in the national advert websites anyway) and they are incredibly rare. Two reasons why. They were never officially sold on mainland Europe and people are frightened of them. I have looked at ads for all esprits and they seem to stay there for a very long time. I suppose you could argue easily against buying one as 911s are plentiful and there are garages on every corner that know them inside out. You have to be able to maintain an esprit yourself and partial or full restoration is definitel
  12. Well it seems this saga was not quite finished. Another little drama to add. . I finally got some temporary plates and took it for the first drive. A very short 2 minutes to the petrol station and back. By the time I returned, reverse has gone again. Plus the added stress of an appointment at the Dyno tomorrow to get the engine set up in order to pass the emissions for the TÜV (MOT) on Friday. By luck, I spotted the problem straight away. I have made a modification that seems to have permanently fixed it too. Over a month of messing about and extreme frustration and the problem was diagnosed a
  13. You also still not finished rick! We will be retired and wearing water tight trousers by the time these bloody cars are finished.
  14. Update time. Fingers crossed I seem to have got it set up. Warm and up and down the driveway with no grinding or jumping out. I changed all the hydraulics and this was definitely not the issue. What i did do different was a small adjustment of the main gear rod. It was a little short. After adjusting that the cross gate cable adjustment was done again and success. I wound the cable so it was at its shortest and I couldn’t get reverse. I wound it out half a turn at a time until reverse engaged again. It engaged quite smoothly so I stuck with that position and it seems to have done the trick!! W
  15. The new master and slave cylinders turned up last night and I managed to fit them this evening. I adjusted the pedal exactly by the book also. Unfortunately it’s past 8pm now and my neighbours have small kids. It would be a little unsociable to drive the car up and down the drive which runs adjacent to their house. Anyway, it seems I have gained a couple of mm of clutch travel at most and now have about 16mm-16.5mm. A relatively long way from 19.5mm. The question is, how critical is this measurement? I’m really starting to wonder if the issue is the clutch itself.
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