free hit
counters
nic996 - The Lotus Forums Jump to content

nic996

Basic Account
  • Content Count

    222
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

5 Neutral

About nic996

  • Rank
    LOTU

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

More Info

  • Name
    nic
  • Car
    Esprit S3 NA
  • Modifications
    adjustable coilovers
  • Location
    munich
  • Country
    DE

Recent Profile Visitors

4,114 profile views
  1. Thanks for the advice Carbuff I will post a picture when it’s done. I bought a fuse box from eBay in Germany and I’m not 100% happy with it. I just ordered a modular type unit with mini blade fuses and micro relays from car builder solutions. I moulded a glass Fibre glove box and will fit it all in when I’m done. It was not so simple to be honest.
  2. I replaced my fuse box to a blade style and want to get some new fuses. The old fuse boxes had quite an assortment including a 50amp fuse which I am sure can’t be right. The lotus notes say that all circuits are 17amp except fuse no 1 which is 5 amp. Does this sound correct? 17 amp blade fuses don’t seem to exist so what do I use? 15amp or 20 amp? I have no owners manual which presumably lists the fuses could anyone enlighten me please? thanks nic
  3. Digging up an old thread here but as my new job has got me connected to an expert in the vehicle aero field, my interest has once again been piqued. I read this with interest ages ago but clearly misread it. I thought the ducktail was useless. Clearly, reading again, the problem is that it is too good. But my question is, does this apply to the turbo version only? Or is that applicable to the non turbo cars? I realise the turbo has a larger duck tail but both versions have a duck tail.
  4. Thanks for the reply. A GT40 replica was on my mind when I thought of it. I think self-tappers and a rubber seal would do the trick. It doesn't have to unclip in seconds. Just something that is removable without destroying paint by prising PU adhesive from the body/glass Just to make it clear for any readers. Lexan is one of the a trade names for Polycarbonate. It's exactly the same stuff save for different coatings that various manufacturers apply. Perspex is one of the trade names for Acrylic which as you rightly say will scratch and should be avoided. Cheers, Nic
  5. Has anyone considered plastic glass for the side rear and bulkhead glass? There is a company that will make glass panels with an e-mark (plastics for performance). I'm not interested in the weight saving but ease of access for servicing. I'm putting my car back together and relised that not having the bulkhead and rear qtr glass is a big bonus for access to various bits and bobs. Perhaps even help with cambelt changes. My thought for the side would be to screw the glass in and then use the plastic glass trim to cover the screws by way of industrial velcro. Shared thoughts or better still experience, would be welcome. Perhaps I am missing some aspect of the idea. Nic
  6. Thanks for the info. Mine are also unlocked so no need to drill. I also took them apart for painting already. As you say, very simple. I couldn’t find barrels and keys on .the SJ website. Only door lock barrels. Unless they are the same? I’ll give them a bell on Monday morning and ask.
  7. I have a similar issue (lost key) but a friend scared me of stories of people putting sugar in tanks „for a laugh“ Does anyone know if there is a source to replace locks (from an aftermarket cap perhaps) and secondly, do people really still do spiteful things like that?
  8. Well this is a bit embarrassing. I upgraded my two small glass style fuse boxes and neglected to take a photo before I swapped them. I still have the old fuse boxes with the fuses in but they are handily numbered from 1 to 4 in both units. My new fuse box is one larger unit. Does anyone happen to have a picture of their fuse ones with the ratings of the fuses showing? Or know the fuse ratings? There is a diagram in the lotus notes but it’s for a later spade style fuse box. Any help much appreciated! nic.
  9. HI Rick, I'm still hanging in there! The garage build is taking longer than I thought. Yes I was talking about spacers between the chassis and the body. I don't think they exist at the front. As for the spring insulator, I just got rid of them. I believe they may have been inserted for vibration damping. Its a sports car, a bit of vibration won't harm PS, loving the S2 bumpers Darren! Starting to really come together.
  10. There were no spacers on the front of the body on my car, although it was also in a front end crash at some point as well. I am not aware that there are any spacers ever fitted to the front but I'd be interested to know if anyone else can chip in? Not that they will go back in there anyway
  11. Funny that, I was going to go down exactly the same path with those wheels from Group 4. I even photoshopped them in. It will be interesting to see how you get on. I wanted to go 8" at the front and Group 4 simply couldn't supply them for the forseeable future (at the time) despite them being advertised. The website looks good but I was put off by the communication, or rather lack of it. Perhaps he has them now but I already took a different path. As for whoever said redrilling hubs to 4 stud should be easy. It's impossible unless you don't mind one of the new holes having an overlap with the old holes and that's only at the rear. It's utterly impossible on the front dues to the design of the hub. BTW, I priced up a set of replacement hubs as they cannot simply be swapped from an older style chassis to the later one. A new set was about 1000€ when I last priced them up. Ouch. Unless you have a deep set of pockets, I think your idea to stick to 5 stud wheels is spot on. Regards the ride height, I went 10mm lower on the suspension and there are spacers between the body and the rear of the chassis. They can be removed but they must have been there for a reason. Not sure what but I guess I'll find out soon!!
  12. That link doesn't work. I think they updated their prices as they seem to be similar to the price in euros now.
  13. I had a quick search and there was no info on my recent find and please move this thread to the apporopriate location but I thought it worth mentioning that Dunlop have just launched a new tyre this month which caters for the S1/2 and 2.2 14" wheel Esprits. 195/70 VR14s and 205/70/VR 14 Sizes. Luckily it seems that Ferrari used them on the 308 and Fiat Dinos which are gaining value and popularity amongst collectors. (A shame as the values have rocketed and I always wanted a 308 GTS and a big bushy tash.) http://www.thenewsmarket.com/global/goodyear-dunlop/dunlop-launches-sport-classic--its-latest-high-performance-tire-designed-for-classic-cars/s/2e886539-b55f-4a5d-8892-4c91f356b35c The tyres look the part and have modern tech inside them. I found some for sale in Germany and nearly spat out my Wurst and Weißbier at the price. 210€ a pop!! I guess they are aimed squarely at Ferrari owners who will always have lots of spare cash lying in the cracks between the sofa. Still, nice to know that somebody is catering for late 70's and early 80's cars. I feel a search for Speedline 4 spokes and a call to Lotus bits for those 4 stid hub conversions. Poor Bank account....
  14. I'm not quite sure I understand the question fully. The link you posted works but doesn't show anything. Follow these instructions. http://www.pbo.co.uk/expert-advice/repairing-holes-in-grp-26713 It's essentially the same as you are doing. If you can turn the body upside down then you don't need to lay the glassfibre on a polythene sheet as they did. Just lay it up the normal way. If you can't turn the body 180deg then 90deg will be enough and then I would say that the way they do. It is a nice idea and will make a clean repair. Don't try to lay up glassfibre upside down. It can be done but it is a pain and can get very messy for the inexperienced. I have discovered this the hard way.The hole in your roof is bigger though so it will need two pairs of hands to apply the repair. Definitely use Epoxy and not polyester. Epoxy bonds to old Glassfibre much better than polyester. To get the curvature of the roof, I would use a thinner material than the hardboard that they use. The crown (curvature) on the Esprit roof is very slight and harder to get right. Make your own material by making a sheet of glassfibre using a smooth piece of wood or something similar. You can use cheaper polyester for this part as it will be thrown away after. I would make it almost the same width as the roof so that the material has enough overlap to flex enough and hold the shape of the roof. I personally wouldn't use aluminium as it dents to easily. In the boat repair, they brace the blanking plate against the surface on the outside. They have a dead flat surface to work with and its not as big as the sunroof opening. My idea would be to bond the blanking plate with silicon or similar . Something easyish to remove after and thin enough to get the blanking plate to sit flush against the hole. It will also brace the roof temporarily to keep the shape. You will be sanding down the roof anyway and painting it afterwards. In the instruction they say not to use CSM. The centre of the roof is not structural and quite thin so CSM will be just fine. If you have woven material then use it but its not necessary. Dont make the repair too thick. The link I gave doesn't quite finish the job for me when it gets to stage 17. When that is all cured, the body is back on its belly, the backing plate is removed and the silicon cleaned up, I would sand a shallow groove into the join and fill that with a thin strip of glass fibre. Again use epoxy. Sand it all flush and use Epoxy filler to get a good finish. I would do this to avoid having a hard edge where the join is which might show up when the car is painted. By the way, Epoxy takes much longer to cure than polyester but the job will be more durable. Although looking at your location, I don't think a long curing time will be as big an issue as here.
×
×
  • Create New...