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nic996

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  1. Well it seems this saga was not quite finished. Another little drama to add. . I finally got some temporary plates and took it for the first drive. A very short 2 minutes to the petrol station and back. By the time I returned, reverse has gone again. Plus the added stress of an appointment at the Dyno tomorrow to get the engine set up in order to pass the emissions for the TÜV (MOT) on Friday. By luck, I spotted the problem straight away. I have made a modification that seems to have permanently fixed it too. Over a month of messing about and extreme frustration and the problem was diagnosed and fixed in twenty minutes. The problem is that there is a sleeve over the crossgate cable that slides up and down the cable and leaves the cable exposed where it passes through the gearbox mount. Where it’s exposed, it buckles and effectively shortens the cable and prevents the cable from functioning properly. I found an extra nut, welded a small washer on the end and screwed onto the remaining thread on the gearbox mount point. It nicely retains the sleeve and keeps the cable enclosed. Job done and all gears functioning well. I have attached some pics of the fix. The welding is rougher than a badgers backside as it was 10pm and I didn’t want to go crazy with the grinder and really upset the neighbours. I would say I will do it properly in the future but it’s robust and i know it will be left as is i forgot to take a picture of the final assembly but the photos should be enough to show how it works. Now I expect somebody to pipe up and tell me that’s how it should have been in the first place and I had a piece missing all along. Either way it’s works...... finally. Saga over. I hope.
  2. You also still not finished rick! We will be retired and wearing water tight trousers by the time these bloody cars are finished.
  3. Update time. Fingers crossed I seem to have got it set up. Warm and up and down the driveway with no grinding or jumping out. I changed all the hydraulics and this was definitely not the issue. What i did do different was a small adjustment of the main gear rod. It was a little short. After adjusting that the cross gate cable adjustment was done again and success. I wound the cable so it was at its shortest and I couldn’t get reverse. I wound it out half a turn at a time until reverse engaged again. It engaged quite smoothly so I stuck with that position and it seems to have done the trick!! What an effort that was. A very fine line between it being correct and all over the place. Thanks for all the tips and comments. Nic.
  4. The new master and slave cylinders turned up last night and I managed to fit them this evening. I adjusted the pedal exactly by the book also. Unfortunately it’s past 8pm now and my neighbours have small kids. It would be a little unsociable to drive the car up and down the drive which runs adjacent to their house. Anyway, it seems I have gained a couple of mm of clutch travel at most and now have about 16mm-16.5mm. A relatively long way from 19.5mm. The question is, how critical is this measurement? I’m really starting to wonder if the issue is the clutch itself.
  5. Thanks for the advice Steve. I’m still waiting for the parts to arrive but will make sure all the measurements are taken into account the pushrod for the mc is long gone it’s a case of adjusting the new push rod to make sure the pedal has the free play and travel required Changes in the photoshop are subtle. Grey along the lower part of the car. Mine is all white for now but the original S2 as you will know has black paint along the sill (rocker) and the front spoiler. My boss (who is a notable car designer) advised me to do the lower part darker as it emphasises the wedge a little more. And he is right. I didn’t think I would like it but it really works. Also the Centre of the front rim is painted black and the suspension is lower. The guy who photoshopped it for me didn’t like the wheel Centre black and stopped short of doI guess the rear wheel but I like it. My car is currently sitting ridiculously high so I am hoping to achieve the better ride height. The rest of the changes will be paint and vinyl on the lower edge.
  6. I just read this thread and wanted to add to my own experience. I had exactly the same issues but with a different outcome. I have an Ecu and throttle bodies. Many moons ago whilst firing up for the engine first time I was advised that the ecu may not be working because the dash bulb for the battery. I was advised to swap it to an LED and this did the trick. A couple of years () down the line, it would appear that the LED swap was coincidence as the engine fires up no problem with a conventional bulb (the ecu has been adjusted since as it was running way too lean). Low and behold, having swapped back to the original bulb, the alternator is once again charging. So now I have ditched most of the LEDs and learned my lesson the hard way. At least the new alternator is clean and shiny. ps. Thanks to Andy Warne you absolute genius for mentioning the potential LED issue one page 1 of this thread. Reading your input was the light bulb moment.... groan..... I’ll get me coat
  7. No there isn’t. There’s a main dealer but they have only been here for a handful of years and there are not many lotus specialists in Germany. A colleague has an s1 Elise and he said they weren’t knowledgeable. He takes his car to his native France for any major work! Talking of whom, he was kind enough to photoshop a few changes cosmetically to the car today and i am fully fired up again! My boss’s boss suggested the changes and I wouldn’t argue with him. He’s been a car designer for twenty five years. I’ll take a break tonight and hopefully the new hydraulics arrive and I will get stuck in again. If there’s one thing I am it’s determined, otherwise known as stubborn!! I will not be defeated... I’ve attached the photoshopped pic to keep the thread interesting. The blackout on the wheels was supposed to be on the rear as well. It’s a work in progress.
  8. Ok that’s another point to look at. I believe the clutch is still an issue that I needs to be resolved first however. I think it is not opening enough which would make the gears hard to get due to clutch drag.. There seems to be too little travel on the fork. Apparently it should be 30mm according to a thread on PistonHeads. I have only about 15mm of travel. I found the answer finally to which hole on my clutch pedal is for the clutch and which the brake. For info it is the upper hole for clutch and lower for brake. Predictably mine was wrong. I swapped it and the pedal is much lighter now but the travel distance is hardly affected. Barely 1mm . So next stop is a new master cylinder. I have (if memory serves correct)a Land Rover mc. It’s probably the wrong part and hopefully it’s not giving enough travel. The pedal is short by about 20mm of travel. I suspect that will only give me a couple of mm more clutch fork throw but who knows, it might be enough. The adjustment on the cross gate seems to be very fine indeed so finger crossed. It arrives in a day or two so I will report back then.
  9. I’m back at it again going through each issue one at a time. So with the clutch throw I am only getting about 80mm of pedal travel. It could be the master cylinder is wrong but also there are two holes on the pedals. One marked b and one marked c for brake and clutch respectively. Stupidly as I now realise, many years ago when I refurbed the pedals I thought it would be a good idea to paint the pedals with wrinkle paint (I just discovered the stuff and got a little over enthusiastic). So which one is which? At the moment I have the brake pedal set to the uppermost hole and the clutch to the lower one. I just want to make double sure every potential issue is covered. The brakes seem to work well and is set to the upper one so a fair assumption would be that the clutch pedal is the lower hole thanks for any replies. Nic.
  10. Thanks for the replies guys. To answer your questions First off the reverse switch. I had a new switch with a spacer and to make sur I put back the original switch. All was good. I’m not sure about the pivot link. I’ll check it out. The master cylinders and slave cylinder sizes I am not sure about. I think the master cylinder doesn’t matter as far as I know as long as the rod is correct. The rod comes with the cylinder so presumably it’s correct. The slave cylinder is for a Land Rover. Perhaps it’s wrong? I don’t know. I guess a smaller bore will give a longer throw? who knew this would be so complex.
  11. I know this topic has been done to death but having read everything there is to read on the subject in the forum and further afield I’d like some advice nevertheless if possible. The background first. Complete vehicle rebuild including the gearbox with new CW & pinion. Gear shift assay was never removed and the crossgate cable is original. The rear part was upgraded for the SJ spherical joint and the clutch master cylinder, slave cylinder and clutch itself are all brand new. The red hydraulic hose was replaced with a braided item and the gearbox oil is fresh. First of all I have the no reverse issue. It’s fine cold but as soon as the car is warm and by warm I mean within 5 or 10 minutes of idling, it jumps out and is difficult to engage etc. and i can only drive up and down a longish driveway. It’s not even been on the open road yet. The engine is not running well at the moment (it’s booked in for a rolling road session next week to set up the ecu and injection) and idles sometimes at 2500revs at which point I can’t even get it into reverse or first. The gearbox oil is new. Sometimes when I’m reversing and press the clutch then a cacophony of grinding and all sorts of nonsense erupts and the clutch won’t disengage. And so to the second issue. According to a thread on piston heads a seemingly knowledgeable person reckons there should be 29.5mm of clutch travel (the thread may have been referring to a Stevens car) I’m not even achieving half of that. The pedal was adjusted correctly today with no effect. I tried to adjust the crossgate cable and had limited success. I can get in reverse with the engine off and get the car going but it quickly jumps out of gear. After two attempts to adjust out the issue, first gear then got tricky albeit only when the engine was racing. At normal idle it was ok. Sorry for the epic length of the post but I have been at this issue for two weeks now and I feel utterly defeated to the point that I’m considering selling the car. Thanks for reading nic.
  12. Hi all, does anyone have a wooden parcel shelf in their cars? (sorry forgot to take a photo) It sits over the rear luggage area very snugly indeed. I have never seen one on the internet and therefore suspect it's a home made item from the previous owner as the pop on fasteners for the vinyl cover were still intact. However, it seems to be very well made and look like it could easily be original Lotus. Just curious as I'm not sure if I ditch it in the name of "added lightness" or not. cheers Nic.
  13. @steve ( dr doom). I understand. I guess my brave pants don’t need to be so big. I will give that a go. @christian. Thanks for the kind comment.
  14. Thanks for all the replies guys. I will give it a chance to settle. Driving with the bolts loose sounds brave. Not sure I have big enough underpants for that. The bolts are all loose and I only took it down the driveway and back once. So perhaps not enough. @henry, yes it was an S3 on the chassis plate but with a new front end and a new chassis from a previous accident . The engine was from a destroyed 2.2 and so I backdated the car in its honor and kind of sorted its identity crisis Its best of both worlds now, S2 up top and inside and s3 below.
  15. It’s an 86na. The book says 170mm from ground to chassis.
  16. Hi guys, i fitted the lotus damper program kit to my car. Eibach springs and Beilsteins dampers and set it to the lower setting. All the bushes were replaced. Everything is in the car including half a tank of fuel. Ok the passenger wasn’t sitting in but I measured 220mm of clearance from front and rear chassis to ground. It seems way too high. The spring and damper part numbers are all correct for the car although it has still not been driven but I am struggling to see how it will settle by 50-60mm in height. Can it really settle that much or is there a problem here? Thoughts greatly welcomed. Cheers
  17. That would make sense. If so then I suppose I could just piggy back the cable onto the existing feed? Here is the full diagram.
  18. Hello electrical experts, I’m not asking to solve an issue because i have the solution but the problem is that i have a wire left over and I don’t know why. I’m swapping my barely functioning dash switches for some retro lucas items. I swapped the lighting switch and all works fine, as do the rest of the switches. But in order to get it switching correctly I removed one of the battery feeds (marked in orange) and the link wire (marked blue) as show in the diagram. My question is, why are there two 12v battery feeds effectively going to the same poles? It doesn’t make sense to a novice but perhaps an expert can answer? Thanks nic.
  19. Mmmm sweet engine and gearbox. Thanks for the replies all. My suspicions are confirmed. No space for it and no need for it.
  20. Hi All, i ordered a return spring for the clutch arm for my 86 NA s3 but there is no space to fit it and nowhere on the gearbox to hook the spring. I’m nearing the end of an 8 year epic rebuild so I can’t remember what was or wasn’t fitted. In the notes it’s states that the spring is for all cars. Can anyone confirm that the notes is wrong and only the top mounted slave has the return spring? Seems that the self adjusting later side mounted doesn’t need it. Thanks nic.
  21. Hi All, i ordered a return spring for the clutch arm for my 86 NA s3 but there is no space to fit it and nowhere on the gearbox to hook the spring. I’m nearing the end of an 8 year epic rebuild so I can’t remember what was or wasn’t fitted. In the notes it’s states that the spring is for all cars. Can anyone confirm that the notes is wrong and only the top mounted slave has the return spring? Seems that the self adjusting later side mounted doesn’t need it. Thanks nic.
  22. Finally fitted my fuse box. I made a solid glovebox too. Still have to wire it all up of course but it’s really compact and I made it easier to access I don’t put much in glove boxes so I don’t mind that it’s no longer at the side For anyone who needs any fuse info, the glass fuses I had fitted are in fact continuous rated type fuses. I moved house a few years back and just discovered my handbook that goes with the car and it states in there that they are continuous rated fuses albeit the glass tube type. They are all rated at 17A except for fuse 8 which is 5A.
  23. Thanks for the advice Carbuff I will post a picture when it’s done. I bought a fuse box from eBay in Germany and I’m not 100% happy with it. I just ordered a modular type unit with mini blade fuses and micro relays from car builder solutions. I moulded a glass Fibre glove box and will fit it all in when I’m done. It was not so simple to be honest.
  24. I replaced my fuse box to a blade style and want to get some new fuses. The old fuse boxes had quite an assortment including a 50amp fuse which I am sure can’t be right. The lotus notes say that all circuits are 17amp except fuse no 1 which is 5 amp. Does this sound correct? 17 amp blade fuses don’t seem to exist so what do I use? 15amp or 20 amp? I have no owners manual which presumably lists the fuses could anyone enlighten me please? thanks nic
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