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About Paul93Lotus

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    Burglar Protected...
  • Birthday 20/09/1968

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  • Name
  • Car
    1993 Lotus Esprit SE (RIP) / 1995 Esprit S4s (Current)
  • Location
    Camarillo, California

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  1. Hi Paul,

    Could you tell me please how to navigate to change the car ownership from 1 to 2 ?

    I see you've done it successfully...

  2. I've been through this with my S4s - your sender is likely done. The least expensive place to find a replacement is speedycables in the UK - you'll just need the part number off of the top of the sender - they are the supplier recommended by Caerbont. Lotus will likely want $200 USD...sjsportscars likely gets their's from Speedycables.. If there is any looseness to the sender's connector it is broken. After I replaced with the new sender the gauge always read above zero-not much but was above zero and read 60 psi when cold - it never read that prior to breaking and reading zero at idle. Look for my post on the subject...
  3. Alan, the window switches for the early V8 (and S4,S4s) are from the rear seat switches from a Vauxhall Senator or Carlton. Those Catera switches referenced do not have the same plugs and are not identical - please delete that link Senator B Carlton GSi Lotus GM 90282849 Link to this post:
  4. Paul93Lotus


  5. Are you following the service notes procedure? - if not you'll be wasting a lot of time.
  6. Be careful with modifying this part. I recently had an issue with my PMIII last year and have the factory GM accumulator pressure gauge set up. Apparently the pressure accumulator on my car was one as described above where the threads were different - installed by the DPO. I threaded it on not paying attention as I figured they were "all the same" but did make sure it was tight. I placed the accumulator in a car wash bucket as I was afraid there might be a slight fluid leak during the test. Pressurized the system with key on and was watching the gauge pressure up ...1000..1500..2000...2500...2600 and a huge bang that left my ears ringing as the accumulator had either unthreaded itself or was not holding enough threads but it shattered the bucket into 50 pieces and shot brake fluid all over the garage including my face. Luckily I had the bucket on the garage floor but I felt the force of the impact on my shin. felt like someone hit it with a baseball bat. I pushed the car out of the garage and washed the car within a minute of this happening three times for fear of permanent paint damage which fortunately there was none. Then washed my hair /face Fortunately my eyes closed when this happened so I did not get brake fluid in my eyes. Shin hurt for three weeks after the event (might have had a fracture but it did not hurt "that bad" and finally went away). Respect the pressure this system generates. It is scary sh#t when these things launch like a rocket and if it were to happen in the car you will guaranteed have fiberglass damage from a launch impact. I'd recommend getting an accumulator with the proper threads if possible from the beginning.
  7. This is not true in regards to the Hella not being capable - see my post in the "Calling all brake gurus" thread...I ran my S4s around and had a passenger call out vacuum levels from a gauge with a line ran into the engine compartment and it does not provide ALL the vacuum needed but it does provide some during normal cruising and almost all you need under complete throttle release - but a supplemental pump is needed for these repetitive brake applications. These UP28 pumps are on A LOT of production cars - especially small turbo Audi 1.8 Turbos, Volvo turbos, and VW Turbos which probably produce even less vacuum than our 2.2L. They are also on GM vehicles with direct injection and ALL look the same - just some are made in Germany and some in Mexico. A new one can be found as low as $80 shipped. You will need a reservoir - the Audi three "ball" blue one would do fine easily found on Ebay, many turbo cars or direct injection have them so don't necessarily limit yourself to the Audi one. A larger one would give you a bigger reserve of vacuum. You'll need a vacuum switch to turn on and off the pump (like this with a relay (suggest a Bosch 30A relay) that has adjustability for on and off setting, you'll also need a one way valve between the reservoir and the vacuum pump to maintain vacuum in the system so that it does not bleed off. A turbo boost bleeder can be used to fine tune the amount of vacuum assist available to the booster to adjust the amount of assist.. The GT3 after 98 had a small vacuum pump (now obsolete) and appeared to be used in conjunction with manifold vacuum - so every solution would need a reservoir along with the pump...but the 2.0 likely put out a little less vacuum than the 2.2. Casewolf I have an unused PMIII unit that I purchased many years ago when I had the same problem (pulling to one side). A complete flush of the entire system cured that problem following the factory manual procedure exactly.-including bleeding the system at the master bleed screws. Car has been fine since for the past 8 years and I never used it and it has sat in a box since as a spare for that "one day". It was a new one for the Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo (which was the donor vehicle Lotus used from GM). The original GM units were not exactly the same as the Lotus one - Its sole difference is at the rear of the unit where you'd likely need to swap the machined aluminum piece where the rod from the pedal pushes at the master. It is held in place with a C Clip which could be removed and swapped with the piece from your old unit. If you are interested in purchasing it PM me..
  8. Saw this in a post that Qavion (Ian) made - thought I would make sure it got into the cross-reference: Ignition Module that does not throw codes: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX378 {#10468343, D1949A} Intermotor Reportedly from a 1991 Isuzu Impulse which makes sense due to Lotus' relationship with Isuzu with the late model Elan. Not verified but maybe Ian will verify...
  9. Craig/David, Couple of questions for both of you since you've been through the conversions... I've been acquiring the parts for this similar switchover, but with Esprit V8 components and in hope of integrating the KH 430 (pedal box, harness, kh430 valve assembly,booster and master cyl., audi vacuum reservoir, stock brake lines - I may be retrofitting obsolete components but want to retain abs if i can). What did either of you find as the optimum vacuum switch on/off points to get good brake pedal feel/assist and the least amount of cycling? I know some of this depends upon the size of booster... Craig - did you mount the Hella up front? is the pump quieter than the Powermaster hydraulic pump? Can you hear it cycling and is it more or less often than 4-5 brake pushes of the old powermaster? I find the powermaster irritating hearing it come on off - was wondering if hella is considerably quieter. Thanks Paul
  10. Do these aftermarket coils not throw a code 41? I know there have been problems with people swapping in identical GM units that were not from Lotus and getting a code 41 error with a check engine light. Raging Fool - no CEL's?
  11. I'm no psychic but I'll bet money you will have another problem as this is a band-aid fix both in practice and looks. Don't become one of the "Dreaded Prior Owners" with these type of repairs. How will you know if it has cracked underneath the foil? THOSE RUBBER ELBOWS ARE PROBLEMS WAITING TO HAPPEN and are the source of an untold number of Esprit driveability issues!! Replace with some black thick wall silicone hose from the intake to the MAP sensor of the correct size and you will never have a problem again. The factory lotus elbows were never good enough for an engine compartment environment (or probably anywhere else on the car as they crack at the ac controls causing the diversion valves and defrost flap to cease functioning and your electric vacuum pump to run continuously if you have a later model stevens). I have had this happen on both my deceased 1993 and my current 1995. It is no coincidence either. Putting some foil on it won't solve the underlying issue. Just bite the bullet and get rid of the plastic tubing and elbows completely. When the elbows crack they don't immediately create an issue, but you can bet they have an effect on fuel trim because the reading at the MAP is not exactly correct as you are bleeding off pressure/vacuum, which results in less power as the MAP is not getting the true reading for the condition of throttle. The plastic tubing can even blow out of these elbows if they get oily enough in the engine compartment.
  12. If the MAP sensor was disconnected you should have had violent hesitations once you hit boost, but would otherwise have driven ok just cruising leisurely. I had that happen at a driving school track day and you will definitely feel the result of that hose blowing off or being disconnected. My advice if you're going to the trouble of reconnecting from intake to map sensor, buy some thick walled silicone tubing and be gone with those rubber elbows and just have a straight vacuum line from intake to map- they are a problem waiting to happen as they cannot withstand heat and just rot with time and either can provide driveability issues due to a vacuum/pressure leak - both at the ac controls and at the intake manifold-especially if the engine starts getting oily.
  13. Let me first say your car looks awesome and shoe-horning an Audi V8 in there is a monumental achievement. But in your case,with a normally aspirated engine a smooth induction intake tube is even more important than on a turbocharged powerplant for air flow. It is all about turbulence. Time to get some mandrel bent pipe and custom fab something to replace that ghetto billy-bob dryer hose.It kind of makes it look like you gave up at the very end because you just wanted to get it on the road. Its the finishing touches man! No need to carry-over Lotus' short-cut that was obviously just to save money. Do you see dryer hoses on this?
  14. Just in case others read this thread for a brake pull, I had a similar issue with my S4s when I first bought it and a complete brake bleed (all old fluid gone) corrected the issue. This involved going through the whole complete bleed process as per the manual. This was a scary pull that almost made the car change lanes. Brake fluid was black when I bought the car. Sounds though in this instance the alignment was off for some reason (and was corrected when the shocks were replaced) if none of the bushes were noticeably worn/damaged? Did you see anything upon removal of the bushes that indicated one of them could have been the culprit?
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