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Paul93Lotus

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Everything posted by Paul93Lotus

  1. Yes, I know - thank you. It was intentional - more directed to MrDangerUS (US) (post above mine) who is still active to see if the thermostat he used ten years ago worked out for him or if it gave him problems. If I find his or the one I have on order does work I will post in cross reference area. I have had two of the Wahler thermostats give me trouble so looking for a more modern replacement and if the one I ordered is higher flow and clears the thermostat upper housing, it could resolve the tendency of the "unique to Lotus" thermostat to run in the high temp range. If you look at my posting history I have contributed a lot to the cross-reference posts in the past and have typically posted there.
  2. For the Stant 13398 Thermostat, the following cars were listed under their catalog: 1982-1984 Jaguar Vanden Plas 1982 Jaguar XJ6 1994-1995 Jaguar XJ12 1994-1995 Jaguar XJS v12 1985 Jaguar XJS all 1972-1978 Mazda RX3 1974-1978 Mazda RX4 1979-1988 Mazda RX7 1971-1973 Triumph Stag 1975-1981 Triumph TR7 These are all classified as Reverse Poppet Now the MotoRad thermostat No. 2033180 is a high flow thermostat made of stainless steel. I measured my thermostat I had in my S4s previously (a JAE one made by Wahler that appears to be made of brass and copper), and it has the same bypass flange diameter of 1.14 in., the same sealing flange dia of 2.12", and 1.27" bypass length from sealing flange to bypass flange. This thermostat cross references to the Mazda RX-7 and Jags, and claims 50% better water flow due to larger openings and also has the jiggle valve. https://motorad.com/motorad-catalog/parts-locator/part/?pid=2033-180 I can't seem to find the height from the sealing flange upwards and the Lotus upper thermostat housing is constricted in that regard, with a low ceiling due to having the timing belt in the way, but if there is not any obstruction and it fits underneath, I would assume this will lead to quicker warm-up and better coolant stability because more coolant is carrying heat away at the radiator once the thermostat opens. I ordered it today as what I saw with my old Wahler opening very slowly at over 200 on the stove left me concerned. I'll report back if it can clear the thermostat cover pipe.
  3. John, Has that Stant thermostat given you any problems while you have had your car?- I like that it is made of stainless steel. Motorad makes a similar one that if it fails, it opens in the full open position, which would avert the radiator being cut off from the cooling process - checking dimensions on that one. Thanks Paul.
  4. Change the thermostat - cheap safety. And agree with the overide - just the anxiety of a potential traffic overheat make a drive less fun. It will one less thing to worry about and is worth the effort to wire in. Most fan companies also make temperature couplings that can be set to a turn on temp of your choosing. I can verify the old fuel issue, been there done that - never store with more than 3-4 gallons, and burn through that fuel within 6 months at most and replace. Car will run like @%%%#! with fuel older than 6 mos and EFI will try to adapt but the fuel likely loses octane rating and ethanol does not help either. Removing the tank's balance tube is not fun - fuel rushes out of it fast, so best to have at least a 3 gallon container ready for collection under the car and remove VERY slowly to control flow. Having more in your tanks will just mean more bad fuel to dispose of later - yet another problem. Fuel stabilizers can extend the storage and fuel quality decay, but they go a year at most and only if you put it in right after fueling.
  5. For those in the United States, your local NAPA Auto Parts has a Legend 75124R with a decent warranty. Fits perfect in my S4s and fills the mounting area like it was an oem battery.
  6. Race Ramps in the USA sell some great low profile ramps - they are plenty wide and made of some aerospace polymer. They have a texture on them similar to truck bed spray on the outside to keep them positioned/stop sliding. Esprit readily backed on to them to do a oil change. Coming from the front may be a slightly more challenging - angle of attack is really tight with the front lip. They come in two pieces so you can remove the front portion and have more room to slide underneath. At first I was hesitant about the price, but now that I have them oil changes go real quick and no drama with a jack. Wish I had bought them sooner. Also they are relatively light - so no heavy wood or metal to drag around. www.raceramps.com
  7. Also, I looked at my V8 master - left side has "Bosch" stamped and the number 23 in a square, and just like the above it has the matching "311902" on the right side, but my digits in front of the numbers is " F C 1 B" followed by 311902. So confirmed as a Peugeot 806 - in the used part picture I verified from, it said: PEUGEOT 806 (221) 2.0 HDI (109 hp) [2001] (5 doors) The reservoir had the same connectors for a level sensor and the reservoir connection that is used as a supply line for the clutch master cylinder, but the reservoir is not square and looks smaller that the Lotus version and is different. My booster also says Bosch B359704, but the number underneath is different - its 912093. My reservoir says "Bendix" on the far end cast into the plastic and does have a number embossed on the left side : "307H99"
  8. Just as FYI that pump was made by Wabco and it was used in 98-2002 Ford Ranger EV trucks. Can't find anything on the part number. Most all were taken back by Ford and destroyed just like the GM EV1 that were all crushed after their 2-3 year lease ran out. I found a page from the truck's service manual and a photo image matched the Lotus part drawing exactly. In the trouble shooting guide it said this pump should be replaced every 5 years / 60,000 miles so GT3 owners should know they will have to fab a replacement when theirs gives up the ghost unless a Lotus part supplier happens to have a NOS one (probably better odds winning a lottery). Basically it is unobtanium. Just wanted to let others know so they don't waste time searching for a replacement and that a used one may be on borrowed time if the donor was higher mileage.
  9. Hello, I am in the process of determining the correct electrical connections to change my S4s DM III brake system to the EBC 430 ABS. I am missing two pages from the electrical section for the GT3 (the appropriate counterpart for this conversion as the GT3 harness is similar) and am looking for pages 11A and page 14 in the '98 M.Y Circuit Diagrams - "11A - Stop , Reverse & Fog Lamps - 4 Cyl" and "14 - Instruments, Low Fuel Level & Binnacle Ground Splice (MY98)" If anyone has those two pages it would be much appreciated!! Once I get the install completed I will document all the wiring connections and the parts used once I know all is successful. This DM III system has had my car sidelined for nearly 2 years and I need to get her back on the road. Bought the pedal box, booster, master cylinder as well as the EBC 430 with bracket and a V8 ABS wiring harness a while back, as well as a vacuum reservoir. Just need to get the wiring straight as far as splices, get a UP30 hella vacuum pump, hoses, and brake lines.
  10. Achim, The Volvo part number you posted in your last post was for a power brake booster switch - is that number correct in that you used that to switch the vacuum pump on and off? I am finally getting off my ass to deal with this DM III problem and do the retrofit to an EBC 430 as my smog check is due in July and my car has sit from procrastination. Any part numbers you used for the switching of the vacuum pump would be helpful - I already have the vacuum reservoir. Did you just add a new brake line along the chassis to enable 4 wheel abs - was that difficult running it through the bulkhead to the backbone of the chassis? Any challenges you had while installing would be good to know. Thanks - Paul
  11. The Fuel Door release actuators (89-03) are from Early GM cars as follows under the General Motors part number: 20597640 This particular number has the correct manual release 1988-1991 Buick Reatta 1986-1991 Buick Riviera 1986-1991 Cadillac Eldorado 1986-1991 Cadillac Seville 1986-1991 Oldsmobile Toronado
  12. Appears that the Kelsey Hayes EBC 430 had a humble beginning in the US - I wonder if the shop manual for the Ford has a comprehensive description/troubleshooting of the system...Not identical, but same shape of solenoid housing and multi pin connector and pump - of course a different mounting bracket: Ford ABS Pump & Control Module F58Z-2C219-A Windstar w/o TCS 1995-1997.
  13. Glad to see that you were able to make it work!. My car's delco abs gave up the ghost after my last smog check on the way home - at first I thought it was just the dyno reaction (where only the rear wheels moving triggered the abs light) but on the way home I lost my assist, Been parked since July before last. Did you encounter any issues wiring in the Kelsey Hayes system - were you able to get the abs functioning as it should?
  14. I've been through this with my S4s - your sender is likely done. The least expensive place to find a replacement is speedycables in the UK - you'll just need the part number off of the top of the sender - they are the supplier recommended by Caerbont. Lotus will likely want $200 USD...sjsportscars likely gets their's from Speedycables.. If there is any looseness to the sender's connector it is broken. After I replaced with the new sender the gauge always read above zero-not much but was above zero and read 60 psi when cold - it never read that prior to breaking and reading zero at idle. Look for my post on the subject...
  15. Alan, the window switches for the early V8 (and S4,S4s) are from the rear seat switches from a Vauxhall Senator or Carlton. Those Catera switches referenced do not have the same plugs and are not identical - please delete that link Senator B Carlton GSi Lotus GM 90282849 Link to this post:
  16. Paul93Lotus

    Paul93Lotus

  17. Are you following the service notes procedure? - if not you'll be wasting a lot of time.
  18. Be careful with modifying this part. I recently had an issue with my PMIII last year and have the factory GM accumulator pressure gauge set up. Apparently the pressure accumulator on my car was one as described above where the threads were different - installed by the DPO. I threaded it on not paying attention as I figured they were "all the same" but did make sure it was tight. I placed the accumulator in a car wash bucket as I was afraid there might be a slight fluid leak during the test. Pressurized the system with key on and was watching the gauge pressure up ...1000..1500..2000...2500...2600 and a huge bang that left my ears ringing as the accumulator had either unthreaded itself or was not holding enough threads but it shattered the bucket into 50 pieces and shot brake fluid all over the garage including my face. Luckily I had the bucket on the garage floor but I felt the force of the impact on my shin. felt like someone hit it with a baseball bat. I pushed the car out of the garage and washed the car within a minute of this happening three times for fear of permanent paint damage which fortunately there was none. Then washed my hair /face Fortunately my eyes closed when this happened so I did not get brake fluid in my eyes. Shin hurt for three weeks after the event (might have had a fracture but it did not hurt "that bad" and finally went away). Respect the pressure this system generates. It is scary sh#t when these things launch like a rocket and if it were to happen in the car you will guaranteed have fiberglass damage from a launch impact. I'd recommend getting an accumulator with the proper threads if possible from the beginning.
  19. This is not true in regards to the Hella not being capable - see my post in the "Calling all brake gurus" thread...I ran my S4s around and had a passenger call out vacuum levels from a gauge with a line ran into the engine compartment and it does not provide ALL the vacuum needed but it does provide some during normal cruising and almost all you need under complete throttle release - but a supplemental pump is needed for these repetitive brake applications. These UP28 pumps are on A LOT of production cars - especially small turbo Audi 1.8 Turbos, Volvo turbos, and VW Turbos which probably produce even less vacuum than our 2.2L. They are also on GM vehicles with direct injection and ALL look the same - just some are made in Germany and some in Mexico. A new one can be found as low as $80 shipped. You will need a reservoir - the Audi three "ball" blue one would do fine easily found on Ebay, many turbo cars or direct injection have them so don't necessarily limit yourself to the Audi one. A larger one would give you a bigger reserve of vacuum. You'll need a vacuum switch to turn on and off the pump (like this http://www.newark.com/multicomp/psf109s-81-330/pressure-switch-spdt-11-9psi/dp/24R7147) with a relay (suggest a Bosch 30A relay) that has adjustability for on and off setting, you'll also need a one way valve between the reservoir and the vacuum pump to maintain vacuum in the system so that it does not bleed off. A turbo boost bleeder can be used to fine tune the amount of vacuum assist available to the booster to adjust the amount of assist.. The GT3 after 98 had a small vacuum pump (now obsolete) and appeared to be used in conjunction with manifold vacuum - so every solution would need a reservoir along with the pump...but the 2.0 likely put out a little less vacuum than the 2.2. Casewolf I have an unused PMIII unit that I purchased many years ago when I had the same problem (pulling to one side). A complete flush of the entire system cured that problem following the factory manual procedure exactly.-including bleeding the system at the master bleed screws. Car has been fine since for the past 8 years and I never used it and it has sat in a box since as a spare for that "one day". It was a new one for the Pontiac Grand Prix Turbo (which was the donor vehicle Lotus used from GM). The original GM units were not exactly the same as the Lotus one - Its sole difference is at the rear of the unit where you'd likely need to swap the machined aluminum piece where the rod from the pedal pushes at the master. It is held in place with a C Clip which could be removed and swapped with the piece from your old unit. If you are interested in purchasing it PM me..
  20. Saw this in a post that Qavion (Ian) made - thought I would make sure it got into the cross-reference: Ignition Module that does not throw codes: STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS LX378 {#10468343, D1949A} Intermotor Reportedly from a 1991 Isuzu Impulse which makes sense due to Lotus' relationship with Isuzu with the late model Elan. Not verified but maybe Ian will verify...
  21. Craig/David, Couple of questions for both of you since you've been through the conversions... I've been acquiring the parts for this similar switchover, but with Esprit V8 components and in hope of integrating the KH 430 (pedal box, harness, kh430 valve assembly,booster and master cyl., audi vacuum reservoir, stock brake lines - I may be retrofitting obsolete components but want to retain abs if i can). What did either of you find as the optimum vacuum switch on/off points to get good brake pedal feel/assist and the least amount of cycling? I know some of this depends upon the size of booster... Craig - did you mount the Hella up front? is the pump quieter than the Powermaster hydraulic pump? Can you hear it cycling and is it more or less often than 4-5 brake pushes of the old powermaster? I find the powermaster irritating hearing it come on off - was wondering if hella is considerably quieter. Thanks Paul
  22. Do these aftermarket coils not throw a code 41? I know there have been problems with people swapping in identical GM units that were not from Lotus and getting a code 41 error with a check engine light. Raging Fool - no CEL's?
  23. I'm no psychic but I'll bet money you will have another problem as this is a band-aid fix both in practice and looks. Don't become one of the "Dreaded Prior Owners" with these type of repairs. How will you know if it has cracked underneath the foil? THOSE RUBBER ELBOWS ARE PROBLEMS WAITING TO HAPPEN and are the source of an untold number of Esprit driveability issues!! Replace with some black thick wall silicone hose from the intake to the MAP sensor of the correct size and you will never have a problem again. The factory lotus elbows were never good enough for an engine compartment environment (or probably anywhere else on the car as they crack at the ac controls causing the diversion valves and defrost flap to cease functioning and your electric vacuum pump to run continuously if you have a later model stevens). I have had this happen on both my deceased 1993 and my current 1995. It is no coincidence either. Putting some foil on it won't solve the underlying issue. Just bite the bullet and get rid of the plastic tubing and elbows completely. When the elbows crack they don't immediately create an issue, but you can bet they have an effect on fuel trim because the reading at the MAP is not exactly correct as you are bleeding off pressure/vacuum, which results in less power as the MAP is not getting the true reading for the condition of throttle. The plastic tubing can even blow out of these elbows if they get oily enough in the engine compartment.
  24. If the MAP sensor was disconnected you should have had violent hesitations once you hit boost, but would otherwise have driven ok just cruising leisurely. I had that happen at a driving school track day and you will definitely feel the result of that hose blowing off or being disconnected. My advice if you're going to the trouble of reconnecting from intake to map sensor, buy some thick walled silicone tubing and be gone with those rubber elbows and just have a straight vacuum line from intake to map- they are a problem waiting to happen as they cannot withstand heat and just rot with time and either can provide driveability issues due to a vacuum/pressure leak - both at the ac controls and at the intake manifold-especially if the engine starts getting oily.
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