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Paul93Lotus

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Everything posted by Paul93Lotus

  1. Anyone know for sure what car model they came from?
  2. He has a V8...there's your answer. $12K would buy you a complete rebuild on a 4 pot If you consider yourself an average mechanic, have a well stocked tool chest, then you should have no fear of an Esprit with the 4 cylinder engine. The 90-95's have GM Delco fuel injection, most of which can be sourced through a local parts store with the correct cross reference numbers. Jeff at JAE can get you most parts well below dealer cost. I have owned my cars for 2 years now without having to go to the local dealer....except to inquire about the cost to hookup a Tech 1. There is software available free called "Freescan" that will allow a laptop to interact with the engine management that is very helpful in diagnosing any problems. It can even data log to Excel. The only service that is costly on an Esprit is the timing belt service...the rest can be done by yourself. There are members here that have done that themselves too. 1. You will need a copy of the service notes, either in pdf or hardbound....absolutely mandatory. 2. For any fluid that there isn't a recent receipt for, budget to replace it. 3. If the timing belt is due (no receipt of change), it will be time to replace for peace of mind. Esprits are interference engines, so the belt breaks and you likely are looking at $$$ for repair as you will undoubtedly bend valves or crack a piston.
  3. Tim and Brendan... My last Esprit (God rest her soul ) was a 93 SE, and now I have a 95 S4s....huge difference. I might also add that the car IS a lot easier to drive with power steering. It is true once you're over 10 mph it doesn't make for much difference, but any of those that say it's no big difference in the parking lots probably have not driven an S4 or newer. The S4's have the nicer door panels and door handles...larger wheels (17's versus 15 and 16's), the more modern nose and side skirts. Doors open wider on the S4's which I did notice, and helps getting in and out if you're not physically small. I have not been in an early SE so I can't comment on the pedal box being smaller, but the S4 on up is pretty tight...so the difference is probably marginal! There are a large number of Esprits in SoCal...so in time I am sure a good car will come along. I bought both of my cars out of state. One was a good experience, the other was horrible. If not completely satisfied by documentation / photos, it really is a good idea to see and drive in person....a basket case car can be serious money to fix, especially with internal trans. or engine problems. Feel free to PM me if you have any questions....probably a good place to talk to some Esprit owners (though mostly V8 ones) is at the Cars and Coffee event in Irvine every Saturday morning near the Ford Mazda buildings (5 & 405). I am sure one of them would give you a ride.
  4. Probably best to stick to the stock NGK's....they are also used in the early Mitsu. Eclipse Turbo over here in the US (2.0L Turbo). Also know that many who have used Irridium plugs had problems with detonation/pinging. Probably not worth the cost for what would likely be little gain. Probably the best performance option is regular replacement if they look like the electrodes are wearing/fouling.
  5. If you used a Ford prooduct, my guess it was the pump from a supercharged Ford Lightning or Harley Davidson version of the F150....if so I think there would be absolutely nothing to worry about....good choice, and what I'll use when my impeller dies in mine. That pump is specifically for a chargecooler. I bet bleeding out air is also a non issue too, huh? I put JL Audio separates in my car....placed the tweeter in the same location you see in the V8's. Sounds good, very satisfied. Have you been to SuperCar Sunday in Calabasas yet? Where in the LA area are you?
  6. That system does not have an accumulator....has a vacuum assisted with the help of an electric vacuum pump I believe. He may be better served asking any brake questions in the V8 forum.......more people there may have had the problem.
  7. I know the door grab handles and latch are from the Calibra, but I don't see those speaker panels on any Calibra door panels I saw...the speaker covers were an integral part of plastic in the door card.
  8. Owen, Do you happen to know what Vauxhall model the later Esprit door speaker panels came from? I'd like to add speakers to my doors in my S4s (which just has the ash trays in them). Cheers Paul
  9. From the Service Notes: (HOPE THIS CAN HELP) Sounds like the pump time is running too fast, since code 56 refers back to 62 (they can come up in tandem) CODE A062 LOW ACCUMULATOR PRE-CHARGE The Accumulator is precharged to approximately 1200 PSI with nitrogen gas. The Pump Motor maintains system pressure between 2200 PSI and approximately 2700 PSI. The Accumulator Switch Motor Control closes when the pressure drops below 2200 PSI. This grounds the Pump Motor Relay Coil causing voltage to be applied to the Pump Motor and Pump On Input. Whenever the Pump Motor is on, the Pump On Input will have voltage applied to it. The Pump Motor will run until system pressure is restored to approximately 2700 PSI. CODE A062 will set when the ABS Controller detects short pump run times of less than 1.4 seconds in duration. Test Description: The following provides an explanation of the procedures being followed in the facing trouble tree. 1. If the pump run time from
  10. Yep...posted about this problem a while ago....better check the same one at the MAP also. On S4's there is one going to the vacuum pump also. I bought aftermarket the second time around....the Lotus originals are crap and it will just happen again. The stock ones just can not hold up to the heat I guess.
  11. Here are some other good ones.....can always appreciate a nice sport bike
  12. Exactly what code numbers did you get? This info taken from a GM factory manual for the Delco PM III system...which is more detailed than the Lotus manual: 1. A solid light indicates that the Antilock Brake controller has detected a fault and disabled part(front wheel portion) or all(front and rear wheel portions) of the antilock system. It will not disable the conventional power brake system. * There are several notes regarding prolonged vehicle operation may futher damage the ABS system. If you have the codes it will help diagnosis. Hopefully it is just the brake switch at the pedal. If your brakes light stay on even when the pedal is not down that can cause a solid abs light. Have someone stand behind your car and observe the brake lights when you hit the brake pedal. Also just on chance you have not switched any brake bulbs to LED? That can cause problems with the abs believe or not....has something to do with the resistance in the circuit. An regular bulb has A LOT more resistance than an LED. Consider yourself lucky that you have access to the TEch 1 Lotus cartridges...they are extremely rare, and since Vetronix was bought from Bosch, I believe no longer made. Oh, and the hydraulic leak part could be internal seal problems within the solenoid assemblies or within the master cylinder. Worst case scenario the system can be rebuilt by Prior Remanufacturing. Also know that the rear of this system is not identical with the GM parts...Lotus must have changed some parts where the pedal rod comes in contact with the master cylinder assembly. Don't ask me how I found out.
  13. Pretty sure the reason the Europa is not here because of some NHTSA rules regarding crash worthiness. I know since Lotus is a low volume producer they are exempt from some expensive crash worthiness tests. You can see evidence of this on some later year US Esprits...it is on the label I believe in the door jamb.
  14. So you have local access to a Tech 1 with the proper cartridge?
  15. The Tech 1 can do complete diagnostics as well as pull trouble codes specific to the abs system. I have the GM manual, as well as the brakes service notes....I can scan a few pages if you can tell me what you specifically need an answer for. The Tech 1 bleeding procedure cycles the solenoids that can help expell any trapped air. I have been told that the pedal "adjusting" under foot pressure is usually a sign of this. Do you have a specific issue with your brakes?
  16. My bet is a leak where Trevor said....that's where mine leaked down the footwell and behind the carpet....the only tell tale sign was that the black paint on the pedal back area was bubbled/crinkled. Any leak where you can'find the source is usually there.
  17. Cheers for the quick picture! Now I can complete the "skin". Someone on one of the race sim forums made a complete "BPR Mod" that includes all the cars that raced in the 96 - 97 seasons....including the Esprit V8 GT1, Jaguar XJ220, McLaren F1's, Ferrari F40 and F355, Viper, Lister Storm, Callaway Corvette, Morgan Aero, Porsche 911 GT1, and regular 911 GT2's. He kindly also gave out the templates so people could make their own paint schemes in Photoshop. The regular mod includes both black Esprit GT1's. The Esprit models are slightly "off" as they don't seem long enough or the roof is too tall....but hey, beggars can't be choosers....I just like driving the Esprit around the track....and this particular Le Mans version is very colorful. Punky PM me about the car and I can email the files. I am not sure I can send the car as a stand alone....might have to send the complete mod which is quite large.
  18. I am designing a 1993 Lotus Esprit Sport 300 for the Gtr2 Windows PC video game. I have painted up the car as attached, but I just can't find any pictures of the rear of the car to make the car look authentic from all angles. The template for the car is from the 1996 BPR Esprit V8 model year so the rear wing doesn't match as well as hood (can't adjust that without modeling software ...and not sure I have the patience with all that is involved)...but I was able to compensate with the rear wing to make it look similar and will change the wheel colors... If anyone has any photos of the rear of this car or has the Spark 1/43 model they can show a quick photo of I'd be very appreciative!! If anyone has any stats on the car that would help also, like hp and torque ratings, engine displacement, gear ratios etc. Here's the real car: Here's what it looks like so far:
  19. This kind of makes sense....since most Loti spend a lot of time sitting, the brake fluid absorbs moisture and turns bad...since the system is under extreme pressures, any contamination in the lines can potentially get pushed into the pressure switch. This in turn can possibly cause the internals in the switch to bind. Probably the same scenario with oil pressure switches for the motor. Sludge can cause a slow or inaccurate reading. Probably the biggest culprit is the lack of fluid changes / lack of use when it comes to the demise of the brake pressure switch. Everyone should keep in mind that the accumulator can fail as a result of constant "de-pressurizing" from servicing the system. The bladder within it can separate or develop a leak from the stress of pressure loss. I believe it is mentioned in the service manual itself.
  20. Talk to Travis(Vulcangrey)...pretty sure that part can be sourced here on the cheap.
  21. Tony...Where are your side window louvers? Must admit I have never seen a 308 without them on...and makes the car look like a 400i without them (and not in a flattering way). Just off for a window clean? B)
  22. I hope you are using a meter, or the very least a test light, otherwise this could be difficult to fix.... Just because you hear the relay "tripping" does not mean that there is power leaving the relay. You need to check the power coming off the relay...the wire that has the large amps to power the actual horn. With a test light you could get an actual visual to be sure the power is leaving the relay. If there is power there must either be an unknown inline fuse, disconnected connector, or a break/short in the wire. If you do have power going to the horn, then it is possible there is a bad ground. Doing continuity tests with the meter should lead you directly to the wire. A pretty straight forward problem if you have the right tools and work systematically.
  23. Like that turbo intake pipe....likely speeds up intake air velocity with the smooth pipe versus the crude "dryer vent" stuff.
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