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  1. hi neil, thanks will do - it has always done the jerky shunting on cold and ive had it five years. the car drives perfectly when warm? ill check and see. Steve Taylor at Lotus Marques said this, do you concur? Hi Ben I am currently visiting the UK and return to Oz on 10/7/2016 Unfortunately you have not mentioned the year of manufacture - maybe its 1988 If you have a turbo Esprit with Dellorto carbs then you car will be a private import (exactly the same as Vinko's) From what you describe this appears to be a cold start ignition problem I recommend you grab your workshop manual and check all the small rubber hose connections on the distributor and inlet manifold Next check the ignition timing per the section in the workshop manual here - If the rubber hoses are connected correctly and the distributor plus static ignition timing is correct, the idle rpm should be at about 1500 - 1800 rpm The high idle should drop down to 950 rpm when the TIV valve located in the inlet manifold operates at about 75 degrees NOTE - an increase in idle speed is achieved via the idle jack located on the front carburettor when the air-conditioning unit is turned on Please check your workshop manual as I dont have mine with me:-) Kind regards, Steve
  2. bump*.... old thread but still the same...
  3. i had a look it was stuck so its idling ok now and correctly jacks up idle speed with aircon on etc but i still have the issue where: 1) cold starting results in the car jerking about violently when driving - the driveline jerks about shunting me back and forth until it warms up, after which it suddenly is totally fine and smooth. Symptoms are thus: The car starts eventually without choke but will start and result in a violent lumpy idle for 5 mins until it reaches 50/60 degrees coolant temp at which point it snaps to a kitten smooth idle. Driving it like this, cold without choke, is violent with shunting. Starting it with choke from cold results in instant starting but also with violent shunting until coolant temp 50/60 degrees, at which point it snaps to kitten smooth idle. So basically, no matter how i start the car, if the coolant temp is below about 60 degrees the driveline shunts me back and forth. above 60 ish the car is perfect in every way. ??
  4. hey guys, my domestic 89 carb turbo starts perfectly but until warm the whole car jerks about when driving quite violently sometimes? Totally fine when warm, very smooth but also idles at 1200-1400rpm? if you start the car and dont drive it anywhere it will idle at 900-1000rpm all day but as soon as you drive anywhere the idle wont settle back down to 1000rpm?
  5. actually wait, because my car has an Autowatch alarm system/key lock fob does this mean that the original CDL module is long gone and that the Autowatch system sends the pulses to the motors when i press the fob? in which case i dont need to spend 66 quid with SJsportscars buying an original CDL module but should rather get a new Autowatch one? or does the autowatch system route into the original CDL module?
  6. i will try and replace the central locking control module because it must be that? If it gets enough power to go down ok the doors earths must be ok, it must be the controller?
  7. hey maybe you guys can help, im trying to install a new drivers side central locking motor (universal) and ive made a bracket which works with the original but im getting this really weird thing where it locks (plunges down) with full 5kg advertised force but when it gets the unlock signal it pushes up with almost no force at all, not enough to even move my finger...can anyone think how or why it could get enough power to go down so strongly but not go up strongly?!
  8. yes, now owned by Vinko - my mate - in Prospect, sydney (round the corner from me!)
  9. sweet good to hear! i just changed my interior lamp as a side note, was always unhappy with its light output but didn't realise the PO put in a 3W glove when the manual states 10W! now much much better and so easy to change...
  10. I've fixed it but before I put it back 100% I tested it but I can't feel air being pulled or pushed anywhere. I didn't glue the fan to the spindle and I think that's the issue, the torque rating on these Maplins is much higher and they also have a higher spin rate than the oem part. I think without glue the force is enough to make the motor shaft spin inside the fan blade hole given its just a pressure fit - I will glue it to the shaft and try again. Luckily I had sealed the outer casing with duct tape and not glue!!! I do not recommend sealing with glue you may need access again one day!
  11. Such an old thread but just fixed mine with the Maplin part, it needs to be wired so it sucks through the plenum as the flexible PP exhaust routes near the drivers side wheel arch. Otherwise it's exhausting into the turbo intake, which to be honest probably doesn't matter if it sucks or pushes type thing the direction really shouldn't matter logically but best kept as per original design (pushing back through pushes fuel fumes from the plenum into the turbo routing). Lots of people remove their purge pumps on the carb turbo given more throttle will start the car but if you let it do its job it's a nifty solution to hot starting. Just make sure the purge pump temp switch next to the otter switch is replaced every so often so it doesn't stick, otherwise the purge pump will not stop running after ignition off and will drain your battery! (Stuck PP coolant sensor = can't sense when coolant is <60c)
  12. Hey Dan ask Steve from lotus marques he does up a real beauty custom for the esprit, more charging power but less load (more efficient) and better sized than the Bosch.
  13. Resolved! They are everywhere on eBay, the Maplin part no ha87u corresponds to 719re385 the MFA part number and they are twenty bucks on eBay. Thanks you!! We really need to work out a better way to present all this parts info, it's all in the forums but the hunting around a forum is very 1995, can we do an exploded car diagram point and click type thing I know a 3D graphic modeller/web programmer ...?
  14. Actually all good it appears the below is perfect is that what you got? They don't ship to Australia can anyone help??
  15. Thanks Neil are you a member? Can you cut and paste? It won't let me see it without logging in and I don't really want to sign up
  16. Ha just so you all know if you remove these parts incl the one way valve between the purge pump and the inlet manifold and forget to close off the hole your boost leaks out...?
  17. the purge pump part no is a089m6105f but its available nowhere...does anyone have their old one they are willing to sell me as the only reason mine doesnt work is the carbon brushes are gone, if you have an old one laying about i can switch the carbon brushes...ill buy it off you.does anyone know what amperage the original Foredit purge pump needs? otherwise i can try and source a new motor, the manual says the fuse is number 23, which corresponds to 2A but im not sure (unclear from diagrams) what else runs off the no23 fuse so not sure if getting a new 12V 1.5A-2A motor will blow the fuse... its such a simple motor too it should be easy to source its just making sure its the right size! I know most people throw the purge pump and the solenoid (part no CAC3939 avail from jaguar) away but i like to keep it original and they did actually serve a useful function.
  18. do we really need this plastic in there? Mine doesnt have it either but ive never replaced it, seems ok. i rarely drive it in the rain though
  19. Great read bibs thanks shame this info can't be merged. I noticed I forgot to account for the fact that fuel is not water...1L of fuel is 0.737kg. That means my esprit fully laden without a driver is 1278kg. With me in it is 1348kg. Thats bloody light. Makes more sense now given the weight savings from AL tanks is actually a substantial 7kg saving using the ones from SJ as I did. That means after a days long drive with a nearly empty tank the car is sitting at ~1300kg (a full 82L tank weighs 60kg). That's a bloody light car to haul around even for the relatively modest 160kw/300nm engine! Also helps explain why my 5th gear acceleration time 100kph-140kph is 7.0 -7.2 not the 8.8-9.2 recorded by the magazines.
  20. Yep boosting fully. Turns out the sound isn't gone it's just different. It sounds like chirping I'm pretty sure it's my manifold to extension piece exhaust leak but I'll have the timing checked on the engine just in case as the fuel is perfect, not over Boosting, head gasket is fine so it's either timing issue or the manifold leak. Nice also ordered a new timing ignition valve (green thing) as if that's playing up it could be stuffing my timing around long after the car is warm.
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