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  1. Hello Damien! Sorry for the delay, just finished up with the flu. Turns out the passenger side (LH Drive) tank is rusty on its bottom so will have to pull it somehow and replace with aluminum one from somewhere I suppose. Hose across and its ilk all seem to be fine. As to my now radiator / engine hot tell tale light coming on after driving it some 10 miles, I got back and the tank in the engine compartment was 8 inches low and the plastic one in the rear trunk was empty so filled both up where they should be and let sit for couple of days. Went out for another drive today and light came on again after some 10 miles again. Drove home, let it cool down and then opened both charge cooler tank and the engine compartment tank both were full and the plastic bottle had risen about four inches to almost full. Put all three of the caps back on and restarted and light stayed on. Temperature gauge stayed around 81 degrees the entire drive. Bad sensors in both bottles, bad module, and anything else I might try to look at? Enough for now. Energy level running low here for now. Much thanks for any hints on this one? Mike
  2. Thank you for your reply. Atwell and Andy! Full tanks of gas. When my friend came home from work today, he noticed though it had rained earlier in the day, a dried stream of orange residue running down his driveway to the gutter from underneath the car, gas residue I would suppose. His driveway has a slope to it and he moved it outside of the garage to let the fumes escape to the outside. That is a new symptom, to say the least. Neither of us have any idea how to even look at the balance hose nor fuel supply and return connections nor how to get the top off the tanks' cover. Closest repair shop we would we know of is in northern New Jersey. The other two places I have tried are gigantic rip offs. One even charged me 100 bucks just to spend 20 minutes taking down my repair requests upon delivery to their shop in north western Maryland. Any hints would be very much appreciated on how to locate / get to the hose and other parts of concern. I have told him to refrain from starting the S4. lol Mike
  3. Hi Atwell. Thank you for your reply! The plastic jug was empty. no drips on the garage floor anywhere that I have found so far. The system was taken apart back in November to replace the Alternator among other things so perhaps it was not properly bled during refill? I never thought to double check that refill, not thinking it was not done properly by the fellow doing the work,. Should there be any antifreeze in in when either engine cold or hot O must ask? I see no scum on the internals of the plastic bottle. Mike Hi Steve, Thank you for your reply! The upper hose was replaced a long time ago with real fuel line and has been looked at. Could be the balance hose at the bottom of the tank compartment? There is sooo much smell around the car even when outside. How do you even get to it without pulling the tanks? lol Mike
  4. Hi All, Mike, the Asshole here. This is SOOOOOO embarrassing! Yet, it appears I am lucky to not have an issue that may not have had a fix. After all these years of ownership (8) I have thought this tell tale was the alternator! After looking in the manual, it turns out I was looking at the coolant tell tale. Opening the tank reservoir, it was maybe 7 inches empty so topped it off and will drive again to see if my childish fix solved my brain deadness. Lucky, though. My friend's S4 is leaking enough gas somewhere that his house smells like gasoline yet can find no apparent leaks so thinking his gas tanks have sprung a rust leak and we all know the level of effort and $750+ for the pair of tanks this will bring to him before he can drive it again as summer approaches even though we are mostly on lock down here too. Aging does have it risks for humans and our cars. lol
  5. Andy, Yes. Using a digital meter so tiny variations do not show up if present. Going to try again when rain quits and measure on AC range, just in case, as I did not do that. Yeah, it is strange. lol Watched for ten seconds or so with no change. I also have an old charge meter that couples around the battery cable to the alternator and it showed a slight positive charging as well. Atwell, Will have to look to answer your question. lol. Mike
  6. Hi Andy and Atwell! Thank you both for your replies! Yes, that is what mystifies me/ 12.5 VDC with the engine off and 14.1 when the engine is running, and these numbers are true for when the Battery light is off, and then, once it comes on after several miles... Very glad it is not the alternator that is only several months old (from JAE) after its recent installation) , so far, and that the battery is getting charged but makes me wonder what else might be getting hurt while driving, of not being able to get to a repair guy if something I can not fix, and, not much I am able to do here anyway. lol Mike
  7. Car starts fine after a two week layover due to state shutdown. I keep a small trickle charger on the battery when not being driven. Alternator is about a year old. Battery shows about 12.5 without engine running or charger hooked up. After a few miles the battery bulb turns on. Voltage check shows 14.1 or so on the battery terminals with engine still running. Ideas as to problem causing the bulb to turn on even thought the battery appears to be charging properly, anyone. Thank you, all! Mike
  8. Car starts fine after a two week layover due to state shutdown. I keep a small trickle charger on the battery when not being driven. Alternator is about a year old. Battery shows about 12.5 without engine running or charger hooked up. After a few miles the battery bulb turns on. Voltage check shows 14.1 or so on the battery terminals with engine still running. Ideas as to problem causing the bulb to turn on even thought the battery appears to be charging properly, anyone. Thank you, all! Mike
  9. Got it! Figured out how it comes apart. Removed an old wasp nest that was not a hindrance. Greased up the bar that rolls over the fixed mechanics and works like it should! Thank you both for your help! MikieP
  10. I apologize, I was away for the weekend. Thank you for your insight! Followed another post to see if I can tear apart from the outside and will try tomorrow. Hope it is fixable as I can not see much but the side of my car in the only position I can get it to set at. lol. MikeP
  11. Then it started back up after stopping for a chicken leg and filling the gas tank, and cold, too. Half and hour later, stopped cooling, yet again, even though it did bring up engine idle when activated though the air remained uggy. Sight glass on the drier show a bit of bubbly, even though cold air in the vents. Also, anyone know of a higher air volume blower motor? MikieP
  12. Hi all, Been a while since on the site. Friend has S4 and both door mirrors have two positions once folded away from the door. My passenger door mirror has two, but the driver door mirror only seems to have one position other than folded. Tried loosening the set screw under the plastic cover but while it does move the mirror slightly away from the door edge, it seems to angle it downwards as well during the moving away. Any ideas, please? MikieP
  13. are these tickets caused by the UK Police using radar to trap speeders and are radar detectors not allowed in the UK?
  14. Radar or ? Detectors not allowed there?
  15. I am an ex  US army person. What do you need from me then?


    Mike Pioso

    1. Bibs
    2. MikieP


      Thank you very much, Bibs! I can verify with pic of discharge if needed... Cheers!

  16. To change out a bulb one has to do all that? There has to be an easier way. Wow.
  17. Thank you Travis! However, there are walls that do not seem to have a way around to get to the plastic beak, as the only thing I see is a plastic rubber tube the wire apparently goes through to the plastic light assy.
  18. Hi Travis! Boost seems OK but have not really pushed it as wheels spin and running out of rear tires with no replacements out there at this time. lol I was told by last shop that motor mounts were sagging and very close to a belt hitting a part of the chassis / frame, so replaced them but never checked if that fixed the closeness until you mentioned it might be that. Uh oh. cam belt? Will not drive it again until I can see whatever I am able to see or get it on a lift somewhere, but not really sure what I will be looking for. I will also check for tightness of hoses from the one BOV. One other thought, I do seem to use oil but no smoke from exhaust or around engine and no further leaking under the chassis since replacement of the one leaking axle seal and also tightening of the A?C compressor bolts (seemed to take a full turn to tight) seeming to stop the bubbling of compressor oil and loss of Freon. What stymies me is the only place I can see the dust in the engine compartment is on top of the ribbed charge cooler plate, not on the engine otherwise, walls, turbo, other tubing or pipes, firewall, etc. Not sure if it on the underpan.... There does not seem to be the normal loose belt noise at all, and nothing from the BOV valves that I can discern. MikeP
  19. I think I have one with a tube coming out of one BOV and the other appears to vent into the firewall. No dust there. I see no dust at either the wall or the tube connections. Not sure I even drive it hard enough to use the over boost venting as I hardly ever hear it venting. The dust only appears only one place in the engine compartment that I can see - on the top of the charge cooler plate in a small area with nothing seen on the trunk inside or out and around the lower rear end body of the car and rear wheel rims. Very strange to me. Perhaps the rear brake pads then? They do not drag and nothing found on the front wheels at all. Go figure. Worried something burning or leaking but no smells. MikieP
  20. THANK YOU FOR YOUR REPLY! This is indeed the model I have. MikieP
  21. How on earth do I change out the rear side panel light bulb? I was told I need to drop the rear bumper. Really? OMG. There are no screws to remove the fixture that I can see. This one's really got me by the b***s. Mikie
  22. Good point! Yes, two of them to keep the boost under 1.24. Only way the shop said they could do it without a $1500 tuner kit....
  23. Hi all! Been a while since I was on here due to my final move to Delaware so thought I would pose a new question today after putting several thousand miles on the Yellow freak. Changed out the ABS switch from Steve in Australia and all is quite well now but a new issue has arisen. I am accumulating what appears to be carbon dust, black and very fine on rear lower panels as if I had driven through a pile of carbon and also found it on top of the charge cooler in a smallish spot about three inches in diameter along the ribs. None on the front or side panels as if it were coming from the Willwood brake pads and nowhere else. Any of you gurus out there what it could be or what might be causing it? No smoke from the exhaust that I have seen. Cheers! Mikie
  24. It is now getting soooooooooo much worse... Something new on the scene just tonight from MSNBCs' Rachel Madow Hour (Friday night show) is the possible/probable collaboration between Malaysian PM, some princes in the middle east and Trump and the RNC in what appears to be many BILLIONS of dollars. If you can watch it via internet, it will astound you and make you wonder what is really going on in the world behind our backs. I am now feeling like a noose will not be good enough, nor fast enough, if all this is true AND, is there even more to come out about these sub-humans that now own us.
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