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Everything posted by ESPREE

  1. I was one of the OPs with the fixes for the hot-start, but since my mechanic did 3 things at once it was tough to tell what fixed it. Glad you folks have continued the research and found that the electrical connection is the place to start! That's by far the easiest/simplest solution.
  2. Shortly before selling my '99 Esprit V8 I had multiple head gasket failures on a freshly rebuilt engine. Everything came from JAE (every time), so it makes sense that I had the same issue. I didn't talk to them about it since I had no reason to assume the gaskets themselves were bad. Ah, if only I had known!


  4. Hi all, I'm looking for the following: Lotus Esprit V8 twin turbo 2003 or 2004 FE "Final Edition". Exterior Color: Dark grey (Gunmetal or Titanium Metallic) or Blue (Azure Blue - if any exist as Final Editions). Interior color: Grey (Charcoal) or Black. Low miles (<15,000 ideal) Proper service records Excellent to "like new" condition No major problems, failures, collisions, stories, or drama.  Owner must be willing to have car inspected by a Lotus mechanic. I'm in Connecticut, but will travel anywhere in the continental USA for the right car. (Sorry Hawaii and Alaska) Please
  5. The JAE website is Flash based, so you have to access it on a regular computer (not an iPhone/iPad), or use a browser like "Photon" for iOS that allows you to see Flash content.
  6. Good news! Mechanic reports that the valve tap went away this morning (the oil must have worked its way in there), and then he drained the conventional oil to refill it with the "normal" Mobil 1 synthetic 15W-50. Pressure went up to steady 23psi at hot idle, and the warning light has not come on at all (since pressure is above 20psi). Whew! Now he's got to go back to something different to complete the break-in (conventional again), but at least we can breathe a little easier knowing there is nothing mechanically wrong with it. Thanks for the info, everyone!
  7. Thanks, everyone for the info! The new oil is going in today and we'll see how it goes.
  8. Hi Bibs, That's a good question, though I don't know the answer. I know he used conventional oil on this first fill for the break-in, but I don't know the weight. It's about 32 degrees F here. I would be very glad if it's just a matter of putting a different oil in! He mentioned trying a different oil first (and checking the pressure with an analog gauge), so I guess we'll see how it goes this week. Do you know what the current oil recommendation is? Last I had seen, there was a TSB around 2000 for: Cold: 0-15W Hot: 40-60 Specifically Mobil 1 Motorsport 15W/50 and Ca
  9. I've gotten oversized bearings from JAE in California:
  10. Thanks, - yes this is 20.3 psi, so the current pressure seems low once it warms up. Any thoughts on what could be the cause?
  11. Hey everyone, It's been a while, but my 99 V8 is finally nearing the end of a long rebuild that was due to sandblasting/powdercoating damage (new block, oil pump, oil coolers, oil lines, bearings, etc.). We started it up yesterday (first time in about a year and half), and it ran smoothly overall, but 1-2 valves were tapping (new tappets), and the oil pressure light was flickering at idle (once it had warmed up a bit). Pre-rebuild that light never came on. We had installed an aftermarket oil pressure gauge a while back, and it was reading about 20psi most of the time, and down to 1
  12. Hi Derek and Gunter, Thanks for the info. Yes - good thought. It's odd that the service manual says "the engine should be cranked with the ignition disabled until oil pressure is registered on the gauge", because you are right that fuel will be injected and then left unburnt! Yes, I believe this is the setup he had when the engine was in the video - there was a short bypass oil tube instead of the long run to the oil coolers. Well that video was from the second rebuild and I am not sure. I know at least for the current build (#3) that all of the measurements and to
  13. So my 1999 V8 is just about at the end of its 3rd rebuild in about a year's time (see other threads for details), and I'm trying to learn as much as I can about the best post-rebuild process so that I can talk to my mechanic somewhat knowledgeably. I am really hoping that I never have to hear the sound of rattling bearings again! Once you have rebuilt an engine, putting assembly lube in all the bearings, what is the right way to "prime" the engine to get the oil everywhere before actually starting it? The Lotus manual suggests removing the spark for a few cranks until pressure is up, an
  14. Just an update... heads and cams are done. Didn't have to add any material - the machine shop just machined down the cam caps a bit to smooth them out (taking material from the bottom surfaces and then reboring I imagine). I guess there wasn't that much material gone from the heads after all. Now onto the block and main caps again. Turns out the sound was from one of the main bearings being spun (the one with the thrust washers). So this makes 2 different rod bearings and one main bearing failing. A few thrust washers too. But they are all in the same general area, so I'm really t
  15. I think the most likely candidate would be the oil line right there that goes to the turbo. Take a look at the diagram in this thread and look for the external tube on the right side (which is the end of the motor closest to the rear bumper): Maybe also the oil gallery plugs that are at othe end of those long galleries. If you clean up the oil and keep a close eye out you should be able to locate the source. A lot easier than the other side of the motor!
  16. Thanks. I don't think there are bearings per se on the V8 (just the caps and the head). I'm thinking that the caps can just be replaced but that the head might need some metal as you say. Then a line bore. Is adding some metal in this way a lasting solution?
  17. Yes, this about sums it up! The guy from the machine shop is coming out to measure everything. I have not met him personally but I would hope that he would be an expert with plastiguage and measuring tools. He should be checking out the heads, caps, and cams. They definitely have the shop manual right there. I'll post back with the results.
  18. Ok confirmed... My original cap will be going back in. So at least I won't have to worry about misalignment.
  19. Just an update... Replacing the main cap didn't resolve the issue (noise is still there). As indicated in the other thread, I will talk to him today and ask that my original main cap go back since having the other one in there can potentially cause alignment issues. If the end float is so loose that the cap does need to get replaced then I will see about a line bore since the engine will soon be out of the car. He removed the left valve cover and there is indeed some significant wear on the cam seats and caps. In particular the rearmost seat on the head itself. I am not sure if it is en
  20. Yes, I am going to talk to him today and ask that my original cap go back. The noise is still there (after changing the cap), so obviously that didn't work. If the end float play is so bad that the cap does need to be changed then I will see if we can do a line bore (since the engine is now out of the car). Thanks for the input.
  21. I see the diagrams (in the 40. Section) but I am not sure what i am looking for. Nothing is labeled as a breather (but it must be there somewhere). Are you thinking that that oil breather is loose or something?
  22. This sounds like a very cool tool. I have not heard of it before. Anyone have one?? I do have one of those basic "stethoscope" tools though. Maybe we can at least find the general area with it. There are definitely some Esprit V8s on the east coast - there are 2 others at his shop right now. Thanks se. I keep telling myself it will all be worth it once it's done... I do have a lot of audio gear and will record it if I am able. I had thought about swapping it when the problem first came up but a proper rebuild seemed to be the better choice. It only had 24,000 miles on it so
  23. This is good to know. Our other hypothesis is that something in the upper area of the engine (like the cams) is shedding metal, which would mean that anything downstream would get debris (like the main and rod bearings). Actually this sounds somewhat likely since the oil in the cooling lines has been coming back clear but the oil draining from the crank area has been dark.
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