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  1. Hi Geert, Do you happen to have a higher resolution copy of that picture? Its got answers to so many of my questions that were ambiguous in the book. Thanks, Brian
  2. Thanks for the encouragement, I tried starting it last weekend and it didn't catch. The fuel pump kicked in and ran until the system reached pressure and then I cracked it a while but it didn't catch. I pulled the spark plugs after and the plugs for cylinders 1 and 2 were dry while 3 and 4 were wet with fuel. This leads me to believe that I have a carburetor problem. I have Strombergs installed at the moment with no air filters. When I push the pistons in the mouth of the carbs up to reveal the pins they are both wet with fuel so I'm not sure why I'm getting more fuel in 3 and 4 than 1 and 2. Last year when I had it idling I did notice that 1/2 were drawing less air than 3/4 but I didn't worry about it as I wanted to get to the timing belt. I suspect there is a combination of things going wrong here. My gut is telling me that cylinders 1 and 2 are starved of fuel and 3 and 4 are flooded. I don't think spark plugs wet with fuel will fire but I'm not sure, anyone know for sure? My next test is to pull the high tension lead from the coil to the distributor, hold it to something grounded and see if I get a spark while cranking. I was cleaning up the electrical around the optronic so its possible I disconnected something without realizing. I noticed that the coil was pretty hot considering I had only been cranking the engine, is it normal for the coil to be hot? Maybe if I disconnected part of the optronics controller the coil was charging but never discharging. Brian M. P.S. Sir Paolo, I ran 3 tests on each cylinder and got readings between 75PSI and 100PSI with all averaging around 85PSI
  3. Hi Everyone, So the last major work I was doing on my Series 1 in August 2012 after getting it to idle for the first time, was replacing the timing belt. This fun job led me to discover that my IN/EX Cam sprockets were several teeth out of alignment and that the timing belt tensioner had been completely un-tensioned. Removing the old tensioner revealed that it had clearly been rebuilt by someone at some point. I ordered all the rebuild parts from SJ Sportscars as it had some evidence of corrosion on the main bearing and I figured new springs couldn't hurt. I ordered the parts in August and thanks to the wonderful postal system shipping the parts back and forth to England received them in a timely manor in November. Next I discovered that my old tensioner had been sleeved and the new plunger didn't fit and that further more the reason the tensioner wasn't tensioned on the car was because the sleeve prevented the screw from going in... Upon discovering this I gave up on the rebuild and bought a refurb from It arrived in December and by February I had it installed, sigh. Not to worry I used the time in between to sort out some electrical stuff and rip out the old radio and a TON of duct tape that had been used to install it... really duct tape and in two fun varieties old crusty that falls apart and old gummy that leaves everything it touches sticky. As for the IN/EX sprockets, I suspect that they jumped some teeth due to the loose tensioner but can't say for sure. I've realigned everything to TDC, installed a new timing belt from JAE with the rebuild tensioner from I turned the engine using the starter with the plugs pulled and nothing jammed so I haven't inadvertently caused a interference situation. I next did a cold compression test that gave very similar results for all cylinders, so at least I have compression. Next step I'm going to try and start it. Brian
  4. Thanks Charlie, I guess newer head units have power filters integrated into them. From what I've seen most modern head units have fuses integrated into them. So I may opt for one of these to avoid having a collection of in-line fuses floating around under there. Brian
  5. I can't see the link. This would be very useful to me right now! Thanks
  6. Hi Guys, I have a question about installing after market head units in a S1. A previous owner installed a after market head unit and an 200 watt equalizer/amplifier combo unit. He had 3 line power filters installed on the power source leads: two going to the head unit one on the switched power lead and one on the always on as well as one on the always on to the equalizer. There was an absolute mess or wiring under the dash all dedicated to the system which despite working I removed in a bid to gain some sanity understanding the wiring system. Once it was removed, WOW, I could see what went where and actually follow the lotus wiring diagram. So this old after market system looks to date from the mid/late 80's and is not original. I'm planning on replacing it with a single head unit with integrated amp with the same 200watt output. My question is do I need a power line filter and if so do I need two? One on the switched power line and one on the always on? What have you guys done? Brian M.
  7. Hey, I got the water pump pulley off buy sticking a wrench between the bolts to hold it and another wrench to loosen the bolt and its mercifully attached behind the alternator. The water pump belt has no tension adjustment and you just have to use muscles to get in on and off. Thanks for the offer for help, but as I've got no parts to put the engine back together that project is on hold. Have any of you managed to order parts from I've emailed them and called them but I keep getting told to call back and the haven't answered any of my emails. I think I'll just get the tensioner rebuild kit from, they've been very prompt with my previous orders. Brian M.
  8. Hi Guys, I'm trying to find a blower resistor for my Series 1 Esprit. My car doesn't have a squirrel cage blower, instead it has a two speed blade fan welded directly onto the heater box. It has two wires running from the binnacle to the blower. One goes directly to the blower and the other goes through a resistor then to the blower. Does any one know what the resistance of this resistor is? I tried measuring it with an ohm meter but its so corroded I can't get a reliable reading and my meter wanders from 0 to 100 ohms. It looks like the one I have overheated and melted the wires running into it. I would like to replace it with a newer one that has a heat sink possibly from another car. There are some pictures of the whole thing in this thread. http://www.thelotusf...tor#entry368629 Picture attached. Brian
  9. Hi Lyn, Well its reassuring that my car isn't the only one thats so dirty! At some point a previous owner had all of the fuel hoses replaced with braided hoses so they are relatively clean and fortunately resistant to ethanol (There always seems to be about 10% ethanol in our fuel here in Quebec). Why do you in particular suggest I clean the fuel hoses? Theres lots of other dirty hoses down there although they are probably a lot harder to get off and on. I've already replaced one of the water hoses that was looking a little ratty. Brian M.
  10. Hi Guys, My car doesn't have a air conditioner just two v-belts to the alternator and waterpump. The alternator belt was on the front though so I took that one of first then took the waterpump belt off after. The pulley was stuck on pretty badly. I had to get a pulley-puller on there to get it off. I figured out why the cam belt was drifting towards the engine block. My automatic tensioner was squeed to one side, the bearing was all pitted and the piston didn't slide at all. I'm going to order the refurbed version from, seems easier then trying to fix the one I have since its so messed up. The car has 32000 miles on it, but man is the front of the engine dirty. There is thick oil/dirt (It has the consistency of potting soil!?) caked on it 1/8 of an inch thick in some spots and the tray/pan thing under the engine was coated in the same gunk. I spent the better part of 4 hours cleaning the crap off. Is this common? Brian M.
  11. Hi Guys, That picture really isn't very clear, but its definitely the exhaust cam sprocket thats about 4 teeth off. When the fly wheel is a TDC, the aux sprocket dot lines up as needed, the intake cam sprocket dot lines up but the exhaust sprocket is off by 4 teeth. When looking from the back off the car the top cam (the intake cam) sprocket's dot lines but the lower (exhaust cam) is about 4 teeth back in its direction of rotation. So what I did was slip the existing cam belt off the exhaust and intake sprockets, rotated the sprocket into position and slipped the belt back on. The automatic tensioner was definitely too loose as I managed to do this without loosening it! I then loosened all the spark plugs and rotated the engine by hand using a ratchet on the crankshaft. So far no problem, nothing bumped or jammed and I now have everything at TDC. So following the instructions in the workbook I moved on to trying to take the v-pulley off the end of the crankshaft. I wasn't sure what the best way of doing this was. Instructions I was pointed to on suggested clamping the IN/EX sprockets together using wood and then cracking the bolt loose. It also suggested wedging a wrench on it and tapping the started motor. Neither of these sounded like particularly good ways of doing it. I tried with the clamp trick on the sprockets but just succeeded in moving all the slack of the cam belt onto the other side of the camshaft sprocket while moving the flywheel but not the cams. So finally what I ended up doing was putting the car into 4th gear and engaging the parking break. With that done the crankshaft was locked in place and the bolt holding the v-belt pulley came loose. So on to actually getting that pulley off! Do we really have to do this every 2 years!? Brian M.
  12. Hi Lynn, Thank you so much for the photos, it will be really easy to compare the CAM shaft position with those to make sure it really is located properly. Regarding the CAM photo I posted, the engine is at TDC on the fly wheel, keep in mind that the photo of the CAM sprockets was taken with a mirror so that I could show the front of the Sprockets (Not the flywheel side). So I believe its the exhaust cam thats way out of position. Here is another photo I've annotated to show what I mean. Fortunately I have a real copy of the workshop manual, I think I'd be really lost without that! Brian M. Here is the CAM photo with some notes.
  13. Thanks for the quick reply Tony. Can you think of any reason why I would not want to simply remove the old cam belt move the EX sprocket to the correct position and then put the belt back on? Since the history of this car is a bit of a mystery beyond my fathers purchase of the car in the 1990's. I wonder if maybe the previous owner intentionally set the EX sprocket the way it is, maybe they did something major like replace the cam shaft. The car does idle with that sprocket in its current 4 tooth out of alignment position. I don't want to move it to the way I think it should be with the dots aligned only to have the piston hit the vales. I will of course rotate the engine by hand the first time to make sure all is well. How big a tooth skip does it take for the piston to hit the valve? You mentioned that the sprocket on the EX valve can be removed and put back on in reverse to modify the timing. How can you tell which way it is, and how can you tell which way it should go? Brian
  14. Hi Guys, As some of you may recall last summer I started the project of restoring my fathers 1977 Esprit S1. Well fast forward a year and I'm back at it again. I've gotten a bit done so far. Rebuilt the carburetors, fixed a leaking heater radiator core and rebuilt the brakes and clutch. Last summer I didn't have the time to replace the cam belt and so beyond idling the car a few times I haven't driven it for fear of a snapped belt and related engine damage. I noticed that the timing belt was shifted on the Aux Sprocket towards the engine and was rubbing against the engine. So to start I removed the alternator to gain access to the automated timing belt tensioner. I then rotated the engine using the started to near Top Dead Center and the advanced it to TDC using a ratchet on the end of the crank shaft. Everything was looking fine until I read in the workshop manual that the tensioner adjustment screw should be backed out until it is at most 14mm from the body. I measure mine and discovered it was already set at 12mm which seems surprising loose to me. So I pushed down on the cam belt between the aux sprocket and the intake sprocket and the belt depressed a lot. Sufficiently for me to insert the locking pin in the automatic tensioner. This leads me to believe that the belt was installed incorrectly and wasn't tensioned insufficiently. Now the car has been sitting unstarted for more that 15years and I understand that belts will age and start to give but this seems like more play then stretching should have caused. So with the fly wheel at TDC I looked at the V-belt pulley on the other end of the crank shaft and it was set to 0degrees as expected. Examining the auxiliary sprocket revealed that the big Dot was in the correct place and the dot along the teeth edge was in line with the center line drawn between the aux sprocket and the crank shaft. So far so good. Next I looked at the Intake and Exhaust Cam Sprockets. First I noticed that the little dots along the edge of the sprockets don't appear to have any color they are just small holes in the edge of the metal. The sprocket on the intake cam shaft lined up the IN text and small dot with the line drawn between the intake and exhaust sprockets. But the sprocket on the exhaust cam didn't. The EX text was approximately in line but the small dot was about 4 teeth out of position. So what does all this mean??? 1) Is the loose tensioner what caused the cam belt to shift towards the engine on the Aux sprocket? 2) Is it normal that all 3 of my sprockets have IN/EX and big Dot on them? 3) Why don't my sprockets have colors on their dots? 4) Did the loose cam belt cause the exhaust cam to skip 4 teeth and when I replace the belt should I rotate it back into position? And when the cam belt skips teeth is it usually the exhaust can that skips? I've attached some images so hopefully you can see what I'm talking about. The one of the In/Ex sprockets I took with a mirror, you can clearly see the IN dot lines up but the EX in out of sync and the dots have no color. My father told me that when the car ran some 15 years ago, that it had a habit of back-firing. I wonder if a 4 skipped teeth on the exhaust sprocket could cause this. Your help and advice is much appreciated. Brian M.
  15. Hi Lyn, I just finished rebuilding the CD 175 setup on my 77 S1. Your throttle by-pass valve does appear to be broken clear off. It shouldn't be too hard to find a replacement as these carbs were used in many different cars and you can readily find used carb sets on e-bay more then you need but a donor set may be an option. While rebuilding mine, I found this site which has a great explanation of both how they work and how to clean and rebuild them. Its about a Triumph but the carbs are identical. Brian
  16. Hi Everyone, I've finished rebuilding the heater box and re-installing it in the car. It was rotten pretty bad as you can see in the pictures so I re-cored the matrix then sanded and painted the whole box. It looks and works much better now! Its a really big job to do and no part of the removal is fun, but I got it back in there! As you can see in the pictures I have a blower with a single fan instead of the twin squirrel cage blowers that are more common from my understanding. The fan speed is controlled by a large resistor in line with one of the switch settings and by no resistor on the second speed setting. The wiring was badly melted and will be replaced with a larger gauge. You can see the resistor in the images. Brian M.
  17. Hi Neil, I just got the radiator core rebuilt and I'm preparing to put the heater unit back together. There is a lot of sanding to do it looks like the anti-freeze dripped all over the inside of the heater box and rusted things out a bit. From what I can see there is very slight pitting of the sheet metal but it should be fine once its re-sprayed. Brian
  18. Hi Guys, A little update on the heater assembly problem. The fan is round instead of the double blower rectangular unit and is welded directly to the heater assembly and sticks out approximatly 3 inches through the black plastic housing into the front compartment but not past the fiberglass wall. Because its attached to the heater it was really hard to get it out from within the car without taking the dash out but I managed to somehow! I contemplated taking the side of the heater unit off (as neil suggested you might be able to do in his thread ) to get access to the matrix but I discovered that the screws that hold the side on are all around the outer edge making in impossible to get to some of them while the unit is in place. So heres what I did. - Removed every bolt/screw that was holding the plastic covers over the air intake. - Removed all the duct work and glove box (Including the vents that go through the dash) - Removed all hoses/cables connected to heater box. - Removed the bolts holding the heater unit to the fiberglass wall. - Removed the screws holding the plastic housing the fan was pocking through. - Disconnected the resistor that was in line with the wire harness to the fan and the other fan leads (I'm going to need to replace that, all the wires were melted from the heat dissipated by the resistor) - Then with everything loose slid the plastic housing and heater assembly together into the passenger foot well and with a lot of shoving and grunting out it came! (I cracked the already slightly damaged plastic housing a bit more, so that will need to be fixed) I don't know if thats the "right" way of doing it, I suspect not but its out. My plan is to cut the fan housing of the heater assembly and get some flanges welded to it so that I can bolt it onto the heater assembly from the outside of the plastic housing so that it no longer pokes through it. It wont be original but at least I will be able to get it back in. Pictures of the heater assembly to follow, I was way to tired to start documenting last night when I finally got it out a 2am! Brian
  19. marcbria


    Hi Guys, Thanks for the welcome. Just to set the record straight I'm Canadian, although I'm sure I will meet many helpful members from south of the border and across the big pond. = ) Brian
  20. marcbria


    Hi Everyone, I posted this in the wrong forum a few days ago so here it is a new = ) I'm the proud owner of a white 1977 Lotus Esprit S1 chassis number 250H. It was bought by my father in 1992 but do to life and all that he wasn't able to work on or drive it since almost the date of purchase. Since then it has sat pretty much ignored in my garage. This summer I decided it was time to get her dusted off and back on the road. Now that I am an adult, and employed, funding and working on the car seems much more likely to succeed. The car itself is in very good shape do to having been stored in a dry and protected environment for all this time. The previous owner was quite meticulous and provided us with both the workshop manual and parts manual as well as all his receipts. In June I took two weeks off work to get some initial work done on the car. What I've done so far. - Rebuilt the front calipers - Almost done the rebuilding the rear-calipers - Rebuilt the zenith/stromberg carburetors - Pulled all the plugs and checked ignition - Tried turning the engine and did compression test (Compression isn't great but its not horrible, I think the seals will need a little time to re-seat) - Inspected the gas tanks. (Not too bad, few small finger print sized rust spots on the bottoms. I'll probably repaint/seal them eventually) - Started the car, she idled and blew off a ton of smoke but finally settled down and ran cleaner - Replaced some missing nuts on the exhaust manifold that was dumping out tons of smoke - Discovered a leak in the heater block, trying to pull it now Lots more testing and repairs to be done, but I'm still optimistic that I will get her on the road before the end of the summer! Brian
  21. Lyn a properly adjusted socket? I love it, and just the type of solution I guess I'm going to be relying on = ) Thanks for the tip! If I find a better method I'll let you know. Brian Hi Nelly, Thanks for your help pointing me to your other thread. My heater unit is a bit different than yours, the blower assembly is nicely screwed on in the front section, on mine it appears to be fixed directly to the heater assembly behind the fiber glass wall which separates the front section from the passenger compartment. Now that you've pointed out it may be possible to remove the matrix without removing the rest of the heater unit I may have a go at that route. Thanks for the tip! Brian
  22. Hi Guys, Thanks for the feedback! I haven't had a chance to look at the lights yet but thats for pointing me in the right direction! Does any one know how to get the choke to stay engaged? I've looked all over the handle and on the stromberg carburetors and I don't see any way of getting it to stay on when I pull up on the handle. Brian
  23. Hi Everyone, My current problem: So the problem I'm having at the moment is getting the heater unit out of the car. From what I've read its no easy task. To make matters more complicated the unit I have has a single round fan attached directly to the heater box that protrudes into the front compartment instead of a double squirrel cage style fan mounted in the front compartment. Does any one know if its possible to remove the fan from the heater assembly before taking out the heater box. It seems like I should be able to move it into the passenger (right hand) side foot well if only that fan wasn't protruding into the front compartment. See pictures attached. Thanks in advance for your help everyone, Brian
  24. marcbria

    Heater Rebuild

  25. marcbria

    S1 Esprit Fire Damage

    Images of the fire damage to my S1 Esprit's Engine compartment. I was very fortunate the fire did not spread further.
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