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marcbria's Content - Page 6 - The Lotus Forums #ForTheOwners Jump to content


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  1. Yeah I'm stumped, if your getting good compression then how is water getting into the oil? Why don't you drain the oil and see how bad the mayo is in what comes out of the pan.
  2. Sorry to hear about your bad luck, alternators aren't very hard to replace if thats the issue so you probably aren't looking at an expensive fix. Do as the boys have suggested and get a volt meter on it and check the various voltages. Brian
  3. Does anyone know where you can get the whole center cap, not just the badge? The whole in the center of my wheel is 62mm. Brian
  4. Originally they were 205/60 front and 205/70 rear. There is quite a bit of confusion regarding this since later models had 195 front.
  5. Thanks Albert, I didn't realize you could see where it goes so clearly in the video. I've got another question for you, that pipe I highlighted earlier in red. One end goes to the other carb, but where does the other end go? If you could post a photo or video of its destination I'd really appreciate it, I suspect it goes to the mysterious charcoal cannister thats missing from my car. Brian M.
  6. Wayne, Leaving a good timing belt on for 7 years is risky but I guess understandable you don't change timing belts on most cars too frequently, but why not change the oil!? Thats just neglectful.
  7. This is from the Cam_Data_9xx document by Tim Engel from the Yahoo S1S2S3 group. You guys should get the spreadsheet, full of useful info on timing: NOTE: A Lotus cam pulley is directional. When installed properly it will time the cam to the indicated MOP (red dot = 110° MOP, blue = 100° MOP, yellow = 102.5° and a green dot = 104° MOP). When the pulley is installed backwards, the cam timing will be off by 10 degrees. A 110° MOP red dot pulley installed backwards yields a 100° MOP (blue dot). Initially Lotus produced separate 110° MOP red dot and 100° MOP blue dot pulleys. Later they consolidated and produced one 110°/100° MOP, red/ blue dot pulley. As an installation guide, a raised bump was cast on one side of one spoke. When the pulley is installed on the EXHAUST cam with the raised bump facing FORWARD, the timing is 110° MOP. When the pulley is installed on the INTAKE cam with the raised bump facing BACKWARDS, the timing is 110° MOP. In either case, reversing the pulley gives a 100° MOP (blue dot). The original 110° MOP red dot pulley was part number H907E0309F, followed by the 100° MOP, blue dot pulley, P/N F907E0309F. Both were subsequently replaced by the combined 110/ 100 MOP, Red/ Blue dot pulley, P/N H907E0309Y. The original single MOP pulleys are no longer available from the factory. The single MOP pulleys (110° only, 100° only, 102.5 and 104) only have one set of timing marks, so ignore the cast in raised bump on the spoke. Install the exhaust pulley with the timing dot on the rim that is next to the "EX" mark facing forward. Similarly, install the intake pulley with the timing dot next to the "IN" mark facing forward. When installing the timing belt, align the two cam timing dots so they are immediately adjacent to one another and both are on the imaginary centerline between the two pulleys. NOTE: Never turn the engine backwards. 907's equipped with semi-automatic tensioners may jump timing since the tensioner is not designed to keep the belt tight when turned backwards. ChargeCooled 910 engines with stock pumps will damage the damage the impellor. The impellor vanes are rubber, angle back against the housing. If turned backwards, they will try to go over center to angle back the other way and there's an almost certain chance of damaging them. Non-ChargeCooled engines with eccentric tensioners are safe to rotate backwards, but it's best to develop the habit of always turning it in it's normal operating direction.
  8. What sizes are those? and what tires do you have on them? I have extremely similar after market wheels on my S1. Are those original? Brian M.
  9. Hi Mark, Along the bottom edge of the instrument cluster there are small metal snaps that hold the metal front, clear plastic and white back of the instrument cluster together. They hang out below the bottom of the binnacle, but above the dash. Use a flathead screw driver to pop the three along the bottom off. This will allow a little wiggle room between the three pieces. Next slip a piece of rubber between the clear plastic and white back and put the snap back on. Its hard to do mostly because the clips weren't designed for the new larger spacing and will be harder to re-install compounded by the fact that you don't have a lot of room. It fixed my problem though, and without taking everything out. If I ever do remove the cluster, maybe to fix the back lights, I'll probably put spacers along the top as well. Brian M.
  10. Hi Tony, You can push the needles down a bit, but not much as they will then rub on the screws beneath them and catch. You could theoretically cut the fat short end so that its not as tall and then push them in further but that doesn't seem like a good idea. I ended up putting rubber spacers between the white body and front glass where the snaps go on. The spaces I put were about 1 to 2mm thick. Completely solved the sticky needle problem and nobody can tell with everything put back together. I only put them along the bottom edge since I did it in place but you could easily do it top and bottom since you've got it out of the car. Brian
  11. Hi Lou, Thats my thread = ) Can anyone suggest a one way valve to use on the one fuel tank breather hoses where they connect to the tops of the fuel tanks? And which direction do they one way valves flow? Into the tanks or out of the tanks? From my understanding air and fuel vapors need to be able to move both in and out of the tanks but hat liquid fuel should only be able to flow into the tanks. Should some ever condense in the lines. Brian M.
  12. So anyone else hazard a guess where I should install the charcoal canister on a Federal S1?
  13. Hi Wedgetable, My car is of course missing a few parts including where those clear lines go. I was wondering if you could take some photos of what they connect to and where they route. I'm in the process of putting them back on my car but I'm not sure where they should be connected. Brian
  14. The timing marks originally had coloured paint in them showing which was Federal and which was Domestic but the paint has likely worn off. There is a spreadsheet over on the Yahoo S1S2S3 group that describes all of the CAM sprockets that you should consult. It takes a little reading and head scratching but you'll be able to figure out which sprockets you have from there. Brian
  15. Thanks Lou, I don't suppose you remember what the routing of the vent lines was do you? Brian
  16. For sure test electrics with the engine running I notice a huge difference on my windows, wipers and the pods lifting when its running.
  17. Dot facing away from the block on EX and facing towards the block on IN gives you Domestic Timing. Both dots facing forward gives you Federal timing.
  18. Why wasn't the oil pressure sender mounted directly to the oil pressure housing on the motor? Mine was installed that way when I got it with a big tower of plumbing that I reduced down and mounted the sender directly to the gallery cover. I do have a high torque starter now so theres more room there. Brian M.
  19. Depends on the car you have, but on Federal S1 Esprits with Strombergs, the vacuum is actually retard not an advance.
  20. Bob, Do you remember what you did with charcoal cannister, tank when you upgraded? And I do have the manuals, the schematic just doesn't show where the parts are actually placed in the car or where the tubes actually route. Brian M.
  21. I have strombergs on my car, but a previous owner removed everything emissions related including the charcoal cannister, catch tank, vent lines and one way valves. I've still got some of the parts and I would like to either put them back or put the european equivalent. But the manuals don't give too many details and I'm currently at a bit of a loss.
  22. Does anyone have any photos of this system on a S1. I guess the major parts would be where it takes off of the filler neck, the T connection and finally where the end that vents to atmosphere ends up. Thanks, Brian
  23. Darn, Really sorry to hear about your trouble Gordon. But the beasts need to driven and thats just what you were doing so. Glad to hear the younger car is back on the road. Brian M.
  24. Andy, are you reading the timing marks on the cam sprockets facing the firewall? There are timing marks on both sides of the sprockets that will line up, but the ones that are relevant are facing the firewall so you'll need a mirror to see them properly. Brian
  25. Hi Paul, I believe you may have put your CAM sprocket's on with Federal timing that is 100degrees MOP Intake and 110degrees MOP Exhaust. Instead of European timing 110/110. From the looks of it you have the dual MOP sprockets, that have IN/EX on both sides. You'll notice that one side of the sprockets have EX/IN and a bump while the other side has EX/IN and no bump. For European timing, the bump should be facing the engine on the IN cam and facing away from the engine on the EX cam. You've got them both facing away from the engine which gives you Federal timing. Brian M.
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