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About marode

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  • Name
  • Car
    Esprit S2 / Elan +2S
  • Location
    Kassel, Germany

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  1. cool, I`ll have a look. It´s exactly as you described.
  2. I hope so. Got the bearing from Harry Martens, so that should be right, as pressure plate I had bought a "LUK 122 0035 10 D 215". Same as in Elite/Eclat and obviously Triumph 2000. It had worked fine for quite a while. Just lately, before I dismanteled head and block, I had a squeeky metalic-noise coming from the clutch area. I´d say the bearing still feels good when I turn it. That sound was also somehow different to a typical singing bearing.
  3. Chris, how did you get away with that noise? I have had the same noise while idling and currently have my engine out (gearbox is still in the car). Would be a good oportunity to figure that out.
  4. mine looks like this (Series 2), it has been OK oil tight so far.
  5. update: been at an industry filter supplier and got a piece of mesh for some euro in the kitty. The guy there has meassured the old one with a sort of magnifier incl. a meter and came up with "´s 0.4". Whatever that means, guess 0.4mm wide of the mesh.
  6. Does anyone know what the density of the mesh should be? I have to fold a new one out of something like this: Can't wait for SJ to ship one and counting the stitches seems a bit difficult for people over 40 years old. Thanks!
  7. Problems solved. Tool is on the way, piston is available at LotusBits. Admin may delete this thread. Thanks!
  8. Hi friends! Has anyone got a spare piston as descibed for my engine rebuild? One of my pistons is damaged, others are ok to reuse with new rings. Also I'm searchig for a liner removal tool to lend, have written to Peter from the elite-group, but I guess he has´t found my message yet. Does anyone else have such a tool? I really think handing things that you probably only use once in lifetime over to others and share the costs makes sense. cheers Matthias
  9. Hey Peter! I'm the next one in the waiting line! Have to pull the liners the next days. Would you please hand over that genius tool to me?
  10. Well that sounds interesting... wonder how they did that "in the car".
  11. hmmm. here >link< it says "Check the stand-out of the liners above the block deck face (liner 'nip') which is unchanged at: - 0.03 mm to + 0.05 mm (- 0.001 to + 0.002 in)". whereas in the manual it says nip should be between 0.003'' and 0.005"". With 0.001'' and 0.002'' I'd be within spec.
  12. I would, if I had one. that's true, I'll discuss that with a professional engine builder. And as Andy said, I ´ll have to involve one anyway. Thanks Steve, there's still hope...
  13. I just made measurements with a ruler (straight edge or whatever it's called in English) and a feeler gauge. Unfortunately I found out that the liners sit too low and are out of spec. They are between 0.0015'' and 0.002'' (should be 0.003 - 0.005''). Also they don't sit equal enough. On liner 2 and 3 I could insert a 0.002'' feeler blade. So more than allowed (0.001''). Also the block is not perfectly even. I have measured a "flat spot" of 0.002. What to do? Do I need new liners to get back in spec? May someone lend me a suitable gauge to confirm the tragedy? Thanks! Matthias P.S. Yes, I have had mysterious water loss, that's why I took it apart.
  14. This might be stupid question, but I couldn't find much info about the liners except for how they are removed and how the specs for alignment and nip should be. Also I don't have a clue how they are sealed at the bottom. My questions are: is it dangerous to rotate the engine with the head off in terms of the liners to move? I am right now cleaning up the surfaces of liners and block to be able to measure nip accurately. The plan is, should all be in spec to leave the block where it is (in the car) and build the head back on. Another question is, are there any bottom seals to change / worry about?
  15. I have just ordered parts yesterday and had added PG06P. I guess that's the stuff we are talking about?
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