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marode

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About marode

  • Rank
    LO

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  • Name
    Matthias
  • Car
    Esprit S2 / Elan +2S
  • Location
    Kassel, Germany

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  1. No confusion at all. No doubt you can take the gearbox out from below an leave the engine in the car, i‘ve done that and that‘s now the reason why it could stay there because it‘s allready been overhault and there is no work to do on it. Also no doubt you can pull and fit the engine as a hole from above once the gearbox is out. And for sure there is no doubt you cannot fit the cast iron manifold once the head is in the car, impossible.
  2. Thanks for your replies! So basically seems I'll have to ask myself if it'd be more work to pull the gearbox and fit it altogether from below or rebuild the engine in stages as I did while dismanteling.
  3. Does anyone here have practical experience in fitting the engine as a hole back in the car with the gearbox still in place? I have dismanteled the stuff in stages, because this project somehow escalated. First the camhousings, then waterpump, tensioner, rear oil seal cover, aux-housing and finally the block, because I thought, well now, without all the stuff, there´s actually enough space to pull the block and leave the gearbox where it is. Reassembly of the engine would obviously be easier ouside of the car and then fit the thing as a hole unit, but I doubt there is enough space between bulk
  4. cool, I`ll have a look. It´s exactly as you described.
  5. I hope so. Got the bearing from Harry Martens, so that should be right, as pressure plate I had bought a "LUK 122 0035 10 D 215". Same as in Elite/Eclat and obviously Triumph 2000. It had worked fine for quite a while. Just lately, before I dismanteled head and block, I had a squeeky metalic-noise coming from the clutch area. I´d say the bearing still feels good when I turn it. That sound was also somehow different to a typical singing bearing.
  6. Chris, how did you get away with that noise? I have had the same noise while idling and currently have my engine out (gearbox is still in the car). Would be a good oportunity to figure that out.
  7. mine looks like this (Series 2), it has been OK oil tight so far.
  8. update: been at an industry filter supplier and got a piece of mesh for some euro in the kitty. The guy there has meassured the old one with a sort of magnifier incl. a meter and came up with "...it´s 0.4". Whatever that means, guess 0.4mm wide of the mesh.
  9. Does anyone know what the density of the mesh should be? I have to fold a new one out of something like this: https://www.ebay.de/itm/302926010317 Can't wait for SJ to ship one and counting the stitches seems a bit difficult for people over 40 years old. Thanks!
  10. Problems solved. Tool is on the way, piston is available at LotusBits. Admin may delete this thread. Thanks!
  11. Hi friends! Has anyone got a spare piston as descibed for my engine rebuild? One of my pistons is damaged, others are ok to reuse with new rings. Also I'm searchig for a liner removal tool to lend, have written to Peter from the elite-group, but I guess he has´t found my message yet. Does anyone else have such a tool? I really think handing things that you probably only use once in lifetime over to others and share the costs makes sense. cheers Matthias
  12. Hey Peter! I'm the next one in the waiting line! Have to pull the liners the next days. Would you please hand over that genius tool to me?
  13. Well that sounds interesting... wonder how they did that "in the car".
  14. hmmm. here >link< it says "Check the stand-out of the liners above the block deck face (liner 'nip') which is unchanged at: - 0.03 mm to + 0.05 mm (- 0.001 to + 0.002 in)". whereas in the manual it says nip should be between 0.003'' and 0.005"". With 0.001'' and 0.002'' I'd be within spec.
  15. I would, if I had one. that's true, I'll discuss that with a professional engine builder. And as Andy said, I ´ll have to involve one anyway. Thanks Steve, there's still hope...
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