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  1. This might be stupid question, but I couldn't find much info about the liners except for how they are removed and how the specs for alignment and nip should be. Also I don't have a clue how they are sealed at the bottom. My questions are: is it dangerous to rotate the engine with the head off in terms of the liners to move? I am right now cleaning up the surfaces of liners and block to be able to measure nip accurately. The plan is, should all be in spec to leave the block where it is (in the car) and build the head back on. Another question is, are there any bottom seals to change / worry about?
  2. I have just ordered parts yesterday and had added PG06P. I guess that's the stuff we are talking about?
  3. Am I right that on "later" engines (I have a Series 2) there is no such seal as no 17 in the picture? I haven't found any under my cam carriers. At SJ it says part No. A907E0203Z is for "very early engines only. Up to engine number 11276". So I use silicone sealant?
  4. Well, thanks so far for all your hints. This forum is always very helpful! I'm still considering taking the engine and gearbox out, I also wanted to change all hoses in the snakepit and change the water and heater aluminium pipes (I know they have to be pulled from the front). Also I'm still struggling to get the head off, manifold is still on, can't get all of its bolts. Either I try to lift the engine a bit after undoing the lh engine mount or I take the hole thing out from the bottom. One bolt is sheared and still in the block at the water pump (has been there before in that state, one of the previous owners left it like that). All in all lots of things to do that are hard to reach and hard to get accurate cleaned and sealed within the limited space. The thing is: I'm doing all that stuff in my garage on stands. So I'm not quite sure what's more annoying.
  5. are we talking about "the seal goes evenly in the ali casting" or is the tool used to center the casting with the seal itself on the crank? I may have some language difficulties here.
  6. Yes I have seen that, I hope that also applies for a series 2 Esprit. My part manual shows the casting without a seal on the next page.
  7. That's basically my question! I wasn't quite sure after looking in the the service parts book and I can't see much as long as the cast section is on the car. So you think I can just unbolt the ali cast part after pulling the crank pulley? That would make things and decisions way easier!
  8. Eric, that sounds reasonable. Also what others said, I may better leave it as it is as long as it's not leaking. It's just such a litarally pain to get there, that made me want to leave everything in best nick. I have indeed used the screw-in oil-seal-trick on crank seals from 2 stroke mopeds, works a treat. Eric, would you hand over that machined tool to me?Eric, that sounds reasonable. Also what others said, I may better leave it as it is as long as it's not leaking. It's just such a litarally pain to get there, that made me want to leave everything in best nick. I have used the screw in oil seal trick on crank seals from 2 stroke mopeds, works a treat. Eric, would you hand over that machined tool to me?
  9. Hi Friends! I am in the process of fitting a new head gasket, water pump and other stuff on my S2 Esprit. While I'm there... I have taken out the cam belt tensioner, the water pump and therefore the aux pulley, So "lots" of space now. Has someone ever changed the front crank oil seal with the engine still in the car? I had changed the rear seal years ago while I had the gearbox off, the front oil seal might still be original. I have no bad oil leaks, just thinking of "while I'm there..". Any practical knowledge is very welcome. cheers Matthias
  10. Good point. But I remember the bearings have been super tight in the housings. I had to heat the housings up and use a press to get them out and the new ones back in again. The sound I hear is also more likely as if something touches under certain geometric circumstances (when loaded). I just can´t find what it is.
  11. Geert, did you also get rid of the worrying "tok tok tok sound" with renewing the UJs ? I have exactly the same issue since ages (also appears only with passenger and/or luggage) and never found the reason. Replacing the UJs and wheel bearings didn't make any difference in my case.
  12. thanks for the hint. I already did that last year - the test fluid I used is to investigate the air above the coolant. And it actually discolored to slightly green, which means I have collected CO2. I wanted to repeat the test after a "failure run" to be sure. I mean hope dies last... I was thinking it is sort of stinky in the engine bay anyway. Now I have already read reports about "is it possible to pull the head without removing the engine..." because it would somehow make things easier for me, I wouldn't have to do the job in the workshop of a friend and block the space for god knows how long.
  13. I may embarrass myself completely, but I once mixed up the mixture screws with the ones next to them after rebiulding the Webers of my Elan+2. Which had led to the same issue. Don´t know if such an idiotic mistake is doable with the dellortos - whis the Webers it was!
  14. Hi John, Trevor and others. Sorry for not responding, I was off for holiday. Did a +2500mls tour to and around the Bretagne in my 1967 Ford 20M P7 Coupe, which (as usual) has shown no faults at all - off topic... just a remark. With the Esprit: I forgot to list an ignition coil swap. No efforts. Also I am running the standard intake system. I forgot to mention another frightening issue. I have mysterious water loss - I mean the Esprit has. After a few short runs (long runs don´t work out anyway since ages) there is like 1/2 liter of water missing. I recently replaced ALL hoses and (therefore) also the intake manifold gasket. Radiator is ok. Concerning heat: yes, I also do believe heat could cause the fuel to vaporise. It is EXTREMELY hot under that engine-cover when the issue appears. Though water temp is shown as 85-90° ok. My worry is I may have a head gasket failure or cracked head as I am running out of ideas. I mean fuel supply should be ok after all the work done, ignition is ok - what`s left? Hey, and also: what about Bobs original question! I didn´t want to hijack his thread, just thought my fault could be somehow related.
  15. Have you checked your float hights? When you get the trouble, is there enough fuel in the carbs? I would have a look. There should be 27mm of fuel in there from my memory (could look up the exact figures later). I wouldn't be too concerned about the fact that the engine is difficult to start when hot and after 10 miuntes, that´s pretty normal. I´d really like to know what you have missed as I am in a very similar state. I get loud missfires when the engine get' to its normal operation temperature. Esprit S2. Engine runs perfect from the start (ok after about 30sek). When water reaches arround 85 degrees, it starts to cut out followed by very loud missfire. My guess is it`s missing some beats (I can feel and hear that before), then collects unburned fuel in the hot exhaust which is then ignites with a loud bang. I am also running out of ideas and will remove the head next and get it crack tested - But I´d really love to avoid this. So far done: Carbs ultrasonic cleaned, new fuel tanks, fuel lines / filter new fuel pump Lumenition module checked and optical sensor replaced rotor arm replaced with red rotor arm Ignition set (correct) Magnecetor ignition cables spark plugs replaced compression test : (1-4) 185psi / 185psi / 160psi / 185psi Also, any ideas welcome. Cheers, Matthias
  16. Sorry for not reporting any of my results lately. In the end I had found the optical switch of the Lumenition to be faulty. Fitted a new one from autocar and have not had any misfire or similar faults since. But I don´t trust fully in it yet, because I haven´t had much time for longer test runs since. Fingers crossed... I have also flushed my cooling system with the help of some Liqui Moly additive and since then the car seems to keep 90° as years ago. But again, more test drives in summer have to be done to confirm that... Now waiting for better weather and salt-free roads. Cheers, Matthias
  17. Pete, I´ve been there. Has worked out very well for years, but suddenly I went into overheating troubles. Had not used the car regulary due to other failures before, maybe that's why. My guess is I´ve had partially clogged waterways. The liqui moly stuff helped.
  18. mine is doing slighty better since a flush with Liqui Moly radiator cleaner (I flushed the complete system). Had placed 4 SPAL fans behind the original radiator before with no big efforts when sitting in traffic.
  19. Same here. I have recently cured my S2 from mysterious misfires when hot. At last I found out that the optical switch of the Lumenition was faulty. Could also be the wiring of that switch. The insulation of the wires is silicone, heat resistant but mechanically prone to brake where it leads through the distributor casing. Check the wires and the switch. The switch can be tested with a meter (when hot / fault appears). See instructions: In the end I replaced the switch with a new one from autocar and it´s running fine since.
  20. +1 for the relay. Been through 2 or 3 switches within a few years, then fitted a relay. Rid of the worries since. It´s a design fault IMO.
  21. Geert and other kind helpers, I had just overhauled the carbs and dismantled them (nearly) completely. Float high was set to 16mm, new needle valves have been used (although not the ones with rubber needles). My fuel pump is in good working order. It is a Mitsuba one with additional filter emelent (because of a break down in France years ago, someone at a Bosch Service there has dumped my working SU Pump after a misdiagnosis for a Facet, which was faulty after one year). Anyway, now it´s this Mitsuba ( ), freshly cleaned. This setup has worked before for years and should function in theory. I will check the fuel level in the carbs after the next test drive. My guess is still just low fuel in the tanks, therefore the downhill problem. My car is generaly parked even in the garage, although I have to drive 3 meters a bit downhill to get there, therefore I was able to repeat the fault. With the air-filter off on a still hot engine, the car started immediately. The fuel is cooking in the carbs, so that´s the reason why smoke comes out of the trumpets and the mixture is getting too rich to start the engine with the air filter on. Might possibly be, that the car does not get (enough) fuel while idling, because the fuel evaporates. When driving, I usually don´t get into trouble, because fresh air is delivered from the outside through the air ducts. When standing at traffic lights with a hot car, I get into trouble. My question at the moment is: why is the car getting hotter than in the days before. As I mentioned, it did not like traffic jams ever (who does?), but didn`t fail like now. I will double check the ignition timing next and set the idling mixture with the help of some colortune plugs to be sure, it is not running too lean at idle. I may inspect the water pump or at least flush the cooling system. If the car is still getting too hot when sitting in traffic, I will discuss the next steps here: Everyone is invited to join! Thank you very much for your help! Matthias
  22. Haven´t changed to red rotor arm yet. But here´s the news of today: the test run this evening endet at home in the garage (best point). Car was heated well up to 95°, my 4 spal fan setup was making quite a noise. Approx. 100m in front of my house I had to stop to let a tram pass. With the car standing, it suddenly went off. But started again easily. This could possibly be because of low fuel, although I have had put 20 liters of 98 octane in (the brand new tanks), and have only done three short test drives of approx. 5miles each. I was standing quite downhill, so maybe not enough fuel at the tank exit. In front of my garage I was able to repeat this behavior. With the engine idling while the car was parked downhill, it went off after half a minute or so and did not go off when parked even. Bummer, I have had no extra fuel to check, if that helps to keep it running when parked downhill. Good point also: no more misfire, no more ignition miss on any cylinder while the test-drive when hot, car was accelerating as it should. Either has changing the coil helped or changing the tanks and cleaning the whole fuel systems or both. Now the most important finding: left the car standing for 5 minutes and it did not want to start again (as before). I removed the engine cover and air filter. Smoke was coming out of the trumpets and the crankcase breather. Without the air filter and still hot, the car started immediately. There is a fat spark coming from the coil cold or hot. There are obviously sparks at all plugs. Pulled the plugs - all of them looked ok. So, I would say it is a lack of fresh air that causes the trouble. This also makes sense to me, because I have been more into trouble with the car standing then with it moving. Air in the "ears" definitely helps. Now, what to do? Where is the failure? I could add a purge pump to the air box, but the car has worked before even on hot days. It`s just getting too hot now. Hotter then in the past. I don´t know why. Today I get in trouble at traffic lights and years ago I could drive through the madness of Napoli in the heat with no trouble even with the old original 2-fan-setup. Now I have the 4 modern fans, have cleaned the radiator, but still the car only cools down when driving. What would you do next?
  23. ok, ok.. your ablosulety right. I have had found the page in the manual about metering the lumenition and will do more investigations before changing anything. Was just tempted with that 123 idea, because it could rule out serval suspects at once. Also I would get he 123 ignition for half the price. But for today: the sun is shining here and I won´t let the Esprit ruin the day. I´m off to the lake. Thanks very much for your help.
  24. fuel pump is fine. Engine turns over, so live feed should be ok. Guess vapor lock or similar stuff. The car never liked to start when hot, but in the past (years ago...) it did after turning over the engine for 10-15 sek. Now it doesn´t. Update: ok, now, after roughly 1/2 hour it did start after lots of cranking, but when I carefully tried to push the pedal it died. So.. seems about the same behavior as before. I will throw the hole distributor and Lumenition out next and replace it with a 123 ignition.
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