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black eclat

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black eclat last won the day on August 15 2015

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About black eclat

  • Rank
    LOT
  • Birthday March 17

More Info

  • Name
    Michael tierney
  • Car
    Lotus Eclat
  • Modifications
    Engine, Brakes, Suspension
  • Location
    Ireland

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  1. The fuel cut off solenoid is mounted on the chassis rail close to the clutch release arm. It is wired with a single positive supply with the earth provided by its attachment to the chassis. I had a problem on my Eclat where the car would run for about 2 minutes and then die. I would wait a few seconds, hear the SU pump run and it would start again and repeat the process allover again. It tuned out to be a loose earth connection to the chassis. When the car was stationary and engine off, the solenoid was ok. But the vibration from the engine or the vibration from the roadway was enough to break the connection and cut off the fuel supply. This meant I could run on the fuel remaining in the Dellorto chambers and then the engine would splutter and die. Repeat. Very frustrating to diagnose that problem.
  2. From memory, earlier 907 engines had a "rope" type crankshaft seal and the splash guard was fitted to prevent the seal being overwhelmed and leaking. Later upgrades to the engine included replacing this seal with a spring loaded lip seal. So if you have the newer type oil seal, this guard is not required.
  3. Really love the work you are doing here.
  4. Hmmmm. How much are you looking for?
  5. Nice off those 2 lads to stop and help fix the broken down Audi.
  6. Overheating fuse but not blowing is the typical symptom of a sustained overload. I wonder are the fans just running for too long a period. Where I am going with this is that the fans might be over worked due to another issue in the cooling circuit. I remember I once had an issue with overheating on my Eclat and after much head scratching I eventually found the the boss that is pressed onto the pump shaft that the pulley wheel is connected to was turning while the pump shaft was not. The tolerance between the impeller and its housing is very small and when the boss moved, the impeller would jam and so stop pumping, then it would move and pump again. Because I had an overheating problem, my runs were short, so it took fooking ages to see this issue. A replacement pump soon after sorted that issue.
  7. Shocking about the chassis. However a timely reminder for us to check our fire extinguishers and fuel lock valves.
  8. Nice car and welcome. The steering is heavy at low speeds and made worse by the lack of ackerman geometry so the outer wheel will scrub whilst making slow low speed turns. That being said, it should lighten up as your speed increases. Its worth checking the universal joints on the steering column (there are 2) in the engine bay as these are prone to seizing.
  9. Hmmm. High temps at motor way driving or fluctuations may point to water pump issues. There is a critical distance that the impeller needs to be from the back plate of the pump to make the flow rates. From memory, the impeller and shaft are just pressed in place so the shaft can move although you would normally expect to see a weep from the tell tale hole.
  10. Can you not just wire a switch in parallel across the thermostatic radiator switch? That would leave you with just 2 wires to run into the cabin to your manual override switch.
  11. Try fuel cut off solenoid. Mine was loose on the chassis (so poor earth). Mine gave me all sorts of spurious loss of power issues until I discovered that. (I also had the vacuum issue in the fuel tank)
  12. Hi Pete, covered 16,340 miles since the drilling of the casting. Some of those miles were in Spa, some in The Alps and some at home in Mondello. I examined the Inlet cam box and saw that it had its drains located so that its orientations allowed most of the oil to drain back to the sump. But the exhaust cam box has the drains in the same location but the orientation of the exhaust cam box meant the oil accumulated in the cover. So I did not see that it was necessary for an oil bath in the exhaust cam box only for startups. However, I stand to be corrected.
  13. Exhaust cam cover leaking is an age old issue with the early style cam covers. The seal slips out of position so easy during fitting and you typically do know about it until the day after your inaugural run. However there is a partial solution. With the inclined engine design, the oil pools in the exhaust cam box and whilst the car is in motion, its not really an issue. The problem starts when the engine is stopped. All the oil collects in the cam box above the cam cover gasket line and hot oil needs not be told twice about a poor seal. Out it leaks all over the hot exhaust manifold. If that does not catch fire, then it will smoke like a train on the next start up until its all burnt away. What I have done to alleviate this issue is to drill out 2 holes in the the cam box in chamber 1 and 4 as per the pictures. This means that the oil will drain away to a much lower level in the cam box, all below the cam cover gasket line. This is how bad it got on my Eclat. You can see the pilot hole drilled in the casting. This was increased to the full size of the casting plug. No. 1 Chamber. No 4 Chamber Only downsize to this modification is that the cam box needs to be removed and its not so easy to do with the engine in the car. Its not impossible but easier with the engine out. Thought I would share this for all to see.
  14. Engine oil - every 5000 miles or after a trackday Gearbox oil - every 5000 miles Diff oil - only once ever Brake Fluid - yearly or after 2 trackdays Coolant - tested yearly After that, its greased yearly on all joints.
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