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black eclat

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black eclat last won the day on August 15 2015

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About black eclat

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  • Birthday March 17

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  • Name
    Michael tierney
  • Car
    Lotus Eclat
  • Modifications
    Engine, Brakes, Suspension
  • Location

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  1. I haven't changed the fuel line before but in relation to the fuel weep at the banjo bolt, this should be cured by replacing the copper washers either side of the bolt.
  2. The Lotus 5 Speed box is a "weaker" box but it really depends on what your intentions are. If you are not tracking the car or using a very heavy right foot, a rebuild Lotus 5 speed box will be perfectly adequate. All the internals for a Lotus 5 speed box are still easily available to accommodate a full rebuild. Changing the gearbox for another type is a black art, in my experience, and if you are not able to do the work yourself, it will get costly very quickly. My car started out as an automatic but a heavy right foot wrecked 2 replacement gearbox's. I could not find a Get
  3. I have the Wilwood brake kit supplied by PNM over 6 years now. Its fine for fast road use and better than the standard calipers,
  4. Bernard, The relay you have circled is to operate the vacuum valves. This must be ok if you dont have any issue when on high beam (the pods still need to be up) It sounds to me that the issue is the light switch (high / low beam) on the steering column. This switch can gunge up over time leading to erratic voltage which would manifest itself as you describe with pods going up and down. The moving contact can also melt if larger wattage lamps are fitted. Most likely it just needs to be stripped and cleaned. That would be my recommendation. Michael.
  5. Does this occur low beam and high beam? Or just low beam? And have you confirmed if lights stay on when the pod closes?
  6. Can you post the Accspark connectio diagram. And can you identify which connection of the coil is marked + in your photo,
  7. Get back to checking what volts is on the + connection on the coil first. I wouldn’t worry about ceramics or cable colours just yet. Switch on ignition and measure voltage. Most multimeters are auto ranging and auto voltage. So switch on multimeter to the V setting, black lead to earth and red lead to the + connection. (If there are 2 “V” settings on the meter, select the “V” setting with a flat line beside it.)
  8. I would suggest you go back a few steps. First check your coil setup. When the ignition key is on you should have 12v at the + connection of the coil. Connect a lead into the HT side of the coil and the other end to a grounded spark plug. Now with a wire connected to the - connection of the coil, every time you briefly earth this wire, you should get a spark. That is all that happens in the distributor in a firing sequence for the 4 cylinders. The ballast is only required if you coil is rated for 6v. If it is and you have 12v on it, it will rapidly heat up and burn out. If there are 2 wir
  9. I have the motors mounted with the red know upwards. A well positioned hole on the inner wing allows a 12 point socket and extension bar operate the red knob if required. Never had to yet.
  10. The exhaust cam cover is the problem as its lying on its side. The effect of the inclined engine is that there is always oil lying in the cam cover above the gasket line. On my last engine out works, I drilled out some blanks in the cam housing casting which allows oil to flow back into the head and reduces the amount of oil lying in the exhaust cam housing. Its not a full solution but it does help.
  11. The fuel cut off solenoid is mounted on the chassis rail close to the clutch release arm. It is wired with a single positive supply with the earth provided by its attachment to the chassis. I had a problem on my Eclat where the car would run for about 2 minutes and then die. I would wait a few seconds, hear the SU pump run and it would start again and repeat the process allover again. It tuned out to be a loose earth connection to the chassis. When the car was stationary and engine off, the solenoid was ok. But the vibration from the engine or the vibration from the roadway
  12. From memory, earlier 907 engines had a "rope" type crankshaft seal and the splash guard was fitted to prevent the seal being overwhelmed and leaking. Later upgrades to the engine included replacing this seal with a spring loaded lip seal. So if you have the newer type oil seal, this guard is not required.
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