htiek

Thanks Guys, Luckily I bought a few spare plugs as it took 3 attempts (and about as many weeks) to finally get it in square and water-tight. Access through the wheel arch is not good!. -Keith

Hi Folks, I've had one of the cylinder head core plugs rot through (just above the exhaust manifold). It's been a devil of a job getting it out with only limited access through the rear wheel ach, but finally had success last night. I've got the new plug but I've read various advice on fitting them on the 'net. Some seem to advocate that they are put in dry, other's say to use Hylomar or similar. Does anyone know the official story? Thanks, Keith

Typical, I only found this thread after I installed mine last night! On my hi-wing I didn't fancy dismantling the dash so I installed it above the LHS fuel tank near the sender unit. I picked up power from the O2 sensor loom which also runs through there. An old cushion placed on top of the engine prevents having "LOTUS CHARGECOOLER" permanently embossed into your chest! Cheers, Keith

This rings a bell! When I first got my SE, occasionally just after starting the engine ABS lights on and no heater fans. Usually it would sort itself out after a few minutes, on other ocassions I had to switch off and re-start. Like you I suspected a relay so took the highly technical approach of pulling every relay (front and back compartments) and giving all the contacts a clean. One relay at a time I hasten to add! The problem has never come back. When I finally got a workshop manual I had a brief perusal of the electrical schematic and think the most likely suspect is the 'start drop-out relay'. This looks to feed the heater fan switch and ABS control circuit amongst others. As my problem has not re-appeared (touch wood!) I haven't investigated further so I stand ready to be corrected. Attached are what I think are the relevant pages... MK_Electrical_90MY_on_sheet2A.pdf MK_Electrical_90MY_on_sheet30A.pdf Cheers, Keith

Hi Stephen, No, I'm afraid the car you saw wasn't mine. She's laid up in my garage waiting for my starter motor to return from being refurbished. Hopefully I'll be back on the road by next weekend. Cheers, Keith

Both items are now SOLD. Thanks to everyone involved. Cheers, Keith

Hans, Your inbox is full... Cheers, Keith

I'm having a clear out of these noisy bits removed from my '92 SE Hi-wing. 1. Larini club sport exhaust - twin exit. I purchased this when I found my standard exhaust was blowing. I fitted it and was horrified at how loud it was. I then removed and re-fitted it again just to make sure it wasn't a leaking joint or something but no, it is just LOUD. In total I think it was only on the car for about 150 miles max. I managed to get my standard system repaired so it went back on. Sorry about the pre-amble but just want to make sure any prospective purchasers know that these exhausts are a lot louder than standard! It should also be noted that (on the SE at least) a small semicircle has to be removed from the rear valance to clear the second tailpipe and the mesh grille cut back to let the pipe through. Otherwise it is a straight bolt-on job. The only bolts not provided with the exhaust are the long ones for the clamp ring. You might be lucky and re-use your original bolts but mine were totally corroded and I replaced them with st. steel (M8 x 100 if I remember correctly). This system cost me well over 400.00 GBP so bargain at 300.00 GBP + postage at cost (I'd guess about 15.00 GBP in UK mainland) 2. Bailey Motorsport Dump Valve This was fitted to my Esprit when I bought it but the 'Fast and Furious' whooosh noise drove me mad. Dump valves are a worthwhile addition to turbo cars however so I've replaced it with a quieter re-circulating valve. Please note this is the valve only, no silicone tee piece, vacuum hose etc. There is a slight mark where the red anodising has been rubbing on the engine cover (see photo). 30.00 GBP + postage at cost.

I've been looking at the graph with the TPS curve added in. Injector PW follows TPS fairly closely which makes sense I guess. Foot of throttle, injectors stop squirting... Afraid I'm definetly out of my depth here! Keith

First of all I must start by saying I am definetly no expert in these matters! The best have I managed to do is compare your graph to a brief run I recorded in my car along with much referral to Dermot's excellent manual. The thing that really leapt out at me was how high the BLM value is on your graph. If I understand the manual correctly, any figures over 128 indicates a lean run. On my graph I never see more than 120, on yours it goes up to 255! At some points when BLM is around 245, the fuel injectors PW goes to 0. This seems odd to me, in my simplistic approach to how things work, I would expect the ECU to be trying to chuck fuel in to richen things up rather than going the other way? Certainly from the graph of my beastie, the injector PW seems to increase slightly with BLM value. Unfortunately I do not know what these figures point to as a possible suspect, indeed I could be barking up the wrong tree entirely! Hopefully someone more knowledgeable will be along soon

Remember to click 'interact' in freescan. If not you only get a few readings and all others read 0 (if I remember correctly.) I hope you get to the bottom of this frustrating problem. Cheers, Keith

Hi Sanj, Yes it was the 380 070 250 50. 24.00 GBP + VAT + Shipping. Cheers, Keith