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About Benmac

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  • Birthday 08/04/1975

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  • Name
    Ben McCaulder
  • Car
    Evora S, Maserati Quattroporte
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  1. Yeah, the wishbones would need just a proper clean up. It's properly scabby in a couple of places say on the hub carriers. FRom what I know the first owner used the car then parked it up in a small garage for a good while so I'm wondering if it was a bit damp in there. All is sound, just doesn't look pretty. The bit that's perhaps most annoying is the bottom of the dampers where the coating is properly flaking off. I'm kicking myself now for not buying a set like you did (I nearly did). There are some decent used sets on ebay so if that is cheaper than getting mine refurbed (they're fine in terms of use, just don't look nice) that may be a goer.
  2. As is poular with Elises has anyone done a suspension refurb on an Evora, stripping it all down and getting bits and pieces like wishbones, hub carrier etc blasted and coated in some way? In addition would it cost the earth to get the standard dampers refurbed similarly (i.e. just cheaper to buy new or barely used replacements)? I ask as I was changing the ARB drop links on mine last night and was slightly annoyed at just how scabby bits of it are (my car is a 2011 S with 33k miles on it that has been pampered since I had it and whilst cared for wasn't babied by its first owner), especially the hub carriers, springs and bottom ends of the dampers. Might be something that I look to do over the winter. Would be something I'd ideally do myself (getting bits coated etc professionally) so doable in my garage with the car up on stands with clams off to help access (and allow more minor strip, paint and rebuild of bits and pieces of bracketry etc).
  3. Well, it's up and solid. Did it with a couple of boxes of paper and bits of plywood on top to stop the jack point digging into the paper. Feels nice and solid. One useful point is that once one side is up it's very easy to lift the other side. One of the drop links done too which was only a pain on the last few threads on the top bolt. Only nuisance there is I seem to have lost my crow's foott adapters for the torque wrench so more ordered to arrive tomorrow.
  4. LoL, got it. I can see a) how that should work nicely and b) how it could go wrong! As it's just the front I may just go with the rear points to jack and then get something under the front points to hold it up.
  5. Oh good point. I just looked at picture of them and indeed yes, there's the 5mm hole. So, how'd you get your car up like that?
  6. I'm sure this has been discussed before but I'm trying to get a definitive best solution and can't quite find one. I want to lift the front of my car (2011 S) in order to swap the ARB drop links as one has a tiny bit of play and I may as well do the ARB bushes while I'm at it. So, I need to lift the car. As such, what do you think would be the best way with the equipment I currently have (couple of trolley jacks, axles stands). I'm thinking jack it at the rear jack point as that will lift the front as well (rear jack point also easier to get to). Then, once up put an axle stand under the front jack point. With that last bit in mind I have fairly normal axle stands. Are they OK to have the car sit on at the jack point or maybe it needs a bit of plywood or a hockey puck (I have both). Failing that and perhaps easier, just bung a box of paper under the jack point as I used to do with my Elise. As an aside regarding the drop links, is there anything odd to remember when doing them? I assume torque specs etc are in the service manual.
  7. Spoke to Bibs.....................(or rather he called me)......................... sorted
  8. Still nothing here, got the confirmation email on the day of registering last week so thought all was good. Now, Bibs is obviously working hard trying to sort it but the process does seem a little bizarre to me, Lotus surely aren't so hard up they need to rely on a volunteer to manage all this for them?
  9. No problem, yes it comes in the black shiny plastic as it is. It has a sticky cover that you can leave on until it's in place then peel off to avoid marking it. I think it's 2m of the tape stuff per side to give you enough slack. It's nothing special that you can't get elsewhere and I beefed mine up with some foam double sided tape.
  10. Pretty easy, I can't remember exactly but a couple of the bolts are a little tricky to get to in terms of peeling back the rubber seal around the door but I think I managed it start to finish in about 10 minutes. The service manual shows where all the bolts are. Most are visible just as is. The only tricky element is getting the new one on and aligned without unnecessarily stressing it as you need to slightly bend it to get it in.
  11. I'm not sure why but Roy Hodgson driving an Aventador is hilarious.
  12. Yep, all doable just by removing the knob and lift tube. I've yet to have had time to look at a better solution although I've driven it a fair bit since and all is good. 1. Assuming you have the standard leather knob - Prize the lotus badge off the top. 2. Undo and remove the bolt that is exposed (10mm socket IIRC) 3. Pull top of the knob straight off. Do not twist it, it's keyed to the lift tube. May be a bit stuck but it will. come off. Be careful as this releases the tension on the spring which you can then remove too (side note, if not already there put a very small screw in the top of the spring - it was a service bulletin update to make sure it stays centred) 4. Lower half can now be slid off too revealing the lift tube and you should then be able to see what's going on.
  13. It works!!!! Scanner arrived earlier. Just tried it and after a little bit of bashing about (I'm not 100% sure how I did it) the light is now off. Driven up the road and back and it has stayed off. I talked to it by telling it it was a Daewoo Epica. Only because that was the first type that came up of the several possibles listed on Lotus Talk.
  14. Right, fixed it but it's left me going "Hmmmm". What was happening was that sprung "tabs" on the plastic lift tube adapter (part number 35 on the diagram) weren't engaging well enough onto the lift tube itself. The adapter sits inside the lift tube and the tabs stick out slightly above and hook onto the top of the lift tube. So, with these not engaging you could pull the tube up without it actually activating the mechanism. To be honest it is an amazingly slight connection for what it needs to do. I have managed to fix it as I had a load of nylon shoulder washers in my bits and bobs box. One of these with the flange machined down a bit then cut along it's length (it was a bit too small to fit round the shaft) was thin enough to slide in between the shaft and the lift tube adapter enough to force the tabs out so that they engage. All seems OK now although I'll take it apart again after a while to check. I fancy a new knob and the MY12 one requires a new lift tube. That won't be a bad plan as there's evidence of someone being in there before such was the slightly chewed thread in the alloy where the knob bolts down onto it.
  15. Ta, yep, worth a try. I do have the standard one though. It's the fact there seems to be very little resistance in the lift tube that makes me think something has become detached and that it is definitely at the gear lever end rather than anything more untoward. It happily goes into first. I shall get it back in the garage then do some poking around later this morning
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