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About snowrx

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  • Name
  • Car
    85 Turbo Esprit, 02 WRX
  • Modifications
    Megasquirt MS3X EFI, JE Pistons, Kemp rods, EFR 6258 twinscroll turbo on Alunox manifold, Integrated charge cooler manifold, Quaiffe LSD, HiSpec brakes, 2.5" SS exhaust
  • Location
    Priest Lake Idaho

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  1. I'd guess someone was trying to keep brake heat away from the ABS sensor wire.
  2. If your car has a water cooled turbo, you can probably skip the timer. They had their day when the oil in un-cooled center sections could overheat and coke up the bearing in the center section, but later cars got coolant to the turbo.
  3. For those of us outside the Cillit Bang market, active ingredients; Sulfamic acid (chemical formula HSO2NH2) Included in Cillit Bang because it’s good at cleaning metals and dissolving limescale. Sulfamic acid is used on a large scale by industry for these same reasons, but more importantly it is involved in manufacturing dyes and pharmaceuticals such as antibiotics and anti-cancer drugs. Sulfamic acid is also found in household products such as toilet cleaners. Phosphoric acid (chemical formula H3PO4, food additive E338) Phosphoric acid is found in fertilisers and water softeners, and is particularly useful at cleaning metals -- it is widely used as an industrial metal cleaner. This can be seen in some Cillit Bang ads, in which an old coin is rendered shiny. It can also be bought as a DIY product, generally in the form of a gel, which can be used to remove rust. Phosphoric acid is generally regarded as one of the safest acids for use in regulating pH in manufactured items – so much so it’s even used in skin-care products C9-11 Pareth-6 A powerful surfactant that’s safe enough to be used in skin-care products. This is the ingredient in Cillit Bang that removes grease and grime. C9-11 pareth-6 is even strong enough to remove the sticky traffic grime from cars and lorries.
  4. I'll see your Trump and raise you a Herschel Walker. If you want to explore the mysteries of political belief and tribal loyalty, he's a perfect case of anyone but Them. How he can be neck and neck with an incumbent, given his seemingly toxic background, dishonesty, and poor speaking ability, is beyond me.
  5. Early cars had fixed camber in the front, later ones had slotted upper arms with under bolt plates/shims to adjust camber. One can fit an adjustable upper link to the rear.
  6. On my '85 USA TE it's safety wired into the aluminum pipe routing coolant above the alternator. Other (earlier?) cars had it in front by the radiator.
  7. I think there's also a timer unit, fuse and and maybe an inhibit switch in the electrical box on the transaxle cover. The SHT. 3 (3A) reference is Ignition power to 2nd relay coil from fuse 23. Not keeping it simple.....
  8. Mike Griese just removed the entire wiring harness out of his FrankEnSPRIT. Beyond awkwardness....
  9. Viper Green aka Candy Chartreuse? I like it better than the recent eye-catching neon greens. Someone should do a rendering on an early car.
  10. Sorry, mine's still on the car. Given that it fit a few years, I'd look a bit for a OEM front bracket take off before I fabricated one, as it's pretty nice as is and cad plated with a unique edge finish if you're looking for originality. Check the parts manuals to see how long the part was in use, post a WTB on Lotustalk, ask JAE.
  11. Can't offer a template, but FWIW here's what the bracket looks like on an '85 LHD Turbo so you can see the stand-offs. Still has a A907El233K part number, so might be the same front plate, but the rear mount looks different on mine. A bugger to get the compressor mount bolts, and the belt is very tight to fit, so I took mine off for the time being as it wasn't working.
  12. I was not thrilled with steering u-joints R&R. Repeatedly oscillating between under fender and full Lotus position, knowing I might have to do it again if it clocked wrong. Other job candidates fully suppressed in memory, lest potential resale/replacement rear its ugly head 🙈🙉🙊
  13. I would of nipped off half a mil off of the minute hand, but glad you could fix it!
  14. Start soaking the assemblies in the best penetrating oil you can get now while you plan the replacement. Reassemble with a good anti-seize compound to help the next guy.
  15. 2. If the diaphragm edge is leaking air, (lots of it) you would end up with more boost not less. Pressure from the compressor scroll/manifold is what opens the valve and allows exhaust to bypass the turbine, taking away speed from the compressor that would have built excess boost. Not sure on the other Q's; given the heat on the exhaust side of the wastegate, the paper might have been there to protect the diaphragm or prevent it from fusing to the hot cast iron? My memory of the diaphragm is that it's soft and rubbery, and should seal just fine when compressed without sealant, also not sure how Hylomar takes to hot conditions.
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