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About snowrx

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  • Name
    Thomas Pell
  • Car
    85 Turbo Esprit, 02 WRX, 03 CBR1100XX
  • Modifications
    Megasquirt MS3X EFI, JE Pistons,Kemp rods, EFR 6258 twinscroll turbo on Alunox manifold, Integrated charge cooler manifold, Quaiffe LSD, HiSpec brakes, 2.5" SS exhaust
  • Location
    Priest Lake Idaho

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  1. I'm running a Megasquirt MS3/MS3X, sequential injection, coil per cylinder ignition, on a single throttle body plenum. It should be interesting to tune a hybrid system, but if you're running closed loop O2 and tune the main circuit on the lean side, the EFI should be able to adjust the rest. I guess you'd need two fuel pressure regulators to feed the fuel rail and carbs?
  2. Some plastics can be welded with a hot air tool. I would (carefully) warm up the float and check the seams to see if there's a crack that the expanding fuel seeps out of and try to melt that back together, assuming you can't find a replacement.
  3. Isn't the headlight feed to the headlights direct from the positive post to the relay block? My US car has a nice fat brown wire to the headlight relays.
  4. My USA 1985 carbureted LC has the same otter switch location.
  5. Well primarily; Safety- Pressurized carbs over the distributer leading to engine fires Efficiency- Car was rated something like 15 or 18 mpg (US) with carbs Hoping for better starting and drivability like a modern car. Closed loop idle, boost and EGO control Secondarily, My personal flaw is I can't leave anything as built, and enjoy fabrication. So the sticky wastegate and all the associated cast iron goes away, and a modern turbo fitted. Mechanical distributer replaced with direct ignition. If you're building a intake manifold to replace the carbs, why not integrate a
  6. Thanks for that! Looking at the same issues 30 years on converting my carbs to EFI
  7. Well , I guess that is worth logging my deceased cat into his twitter account for the third time, he'll be liking that post for sure.
  8. Having noise issues with my neighbors/unpaid tenants this year, but if they keep up the howling it will end badly for them as the local hunters would rather them dead than alive.
  9. The gauge displays voltage returned from the sender. The fuel tank sender is a variable resistor operated by a float that allows more or less of the supplied voltage (10V from voltage stabilizer in the binnacle) to get back to the gauge. So here you are substituting the 500 ohm variable resistor for the sender in the tank to see if the gauge is operating. As you adjust the resistor, changing the voltage supplied, the gauge should change position if it's working. Terminals on the resistor don't matter, just solder on whatever wires or connectors suit your purpose, or clip/twist/ crimp wire
  10. I had an intermittent speedo, that was fixed with a new inner cable. Some how it was just long enough to sometimes engage at both ends occasionally.
  11. Does make one wonder how the car cools with that giant number plate blocking the little radiator opening.
  12. I'm confused also! I just put a bunch of different bulbs on a power supply, and the incandescents start glowing fairly well at about 5 volts, so I'm wondering why they don't glow for you. With the LED's most of them are at least half lit at 9v, except for a few of the "CAN-safe" bulbs with the resistor on them which barely start at 8V. If bypassing the switch won't make them work there's more going on. You might want to check the voltage at both sides of the fuse (19 on my diagram, probably different for UK model, maybe #8) and the green wire at the RHC Rear Harness Connector (i
  13. -Would you all stop tormenting Fabian and let him enjoy his car- Oh, and by the way the right rear corner of the Bond car bonnet stands proud of the wing by about 1.3mm in some FYEO shots, will you replicate this to our satisfaction?
  14. A "1" on the ohms/continuity setting indicates an open circuit on most multi-meters; that would be a bad switch if you're on the right setting. 9.4 volts (assuming 12+ at the battery) tells us that either the wiring to the switch has a bad connection or other resistance, or that the grounding strap from the transaxle/engine to the frame & battery is bad. Check the resistance from your trans case to the negative of the battery first as that's easiest. Should be very small ohms resistance. 9 volts should still light up the bulbs a bit if you connect the two switch wires together?
  15. 3.84 volts across the switch seems like quite a drop. Disconnected, you should have 12V plus on the Green(?) side with key on, and bulb resistance to ground on the other. If you jumper the two wires with the key on your lamps should light up. These switches can get bashed up when pulling the engine/transaxle assy, so check how secure the flag terminals are on the switch body.
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