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  1. I'd suggest the OEM Goetze brand head gasket over generic, and if you ever expect more boost, some forged pistons. JAE has a shop that will bore your liners (or new ones) to fit the pistons they offer. If your head needs skimmed be sure the machine shop keeps the head face parallel to the cam centerlines. Early head studs are thought to be weak, JAE sells an ARP replacement set Be prepared for parts prices to be 200-400% of what the same part would cost for your Chevy/Toyota. For a motors worth of parts it may be worthwhile checking with the UK vendors to see how the Pound is holding up against the dollar. A Gate T304RB belt is a stronger belt for your trapezoidal tooth cam pullies. Use the proper anaerobic sealants where called for and use less rather than more. The OEM manifold is a real pain to remove/install, & heavy. Someone was having a US stainless exhaust manifold done that looked pretty good in prototype form, they were hoping to defray costs by making more. Might be worth a check.
  2. Ok finally put the last frosty miles on this morning to get the tank down to an indicated 1/2 with the 10 ohm resistor in series with my ~14 ohm full sender. I had to put just about 11 gallons in to fill. The fill valve started clicking off at about 10.4 Gal, and I persisted longer than usual cramming more gas in and managed to get 11.7 in total. So certainly on line with 1/2 of my listed 22 US gallon total capacity. Close enough for me, although running the tank down to 1/4 will have to wait till next summer. My guess is it will still be non-linear at low levels, but at least my gauge is now more accurate at normal usage levels.
  3. It's a tough life for the cast iron housing, cold to red hot & repeat. Cracks are common. I would run it as is. It's not leaking anything and has a ways to go radially before it hits the exit or any structural importance . Strictly guessing, but I bet it slows or stops when it hits the thicker section of the casting.
  4. Especially for me after one of the stock studs had previously stripped out of the block at 80 ftlbs! The deep thread repair took a bit of doing.......
  5. The ARP method is what I used.
  6. Curious to see how you make out, cruise is some where on my to-do list. I have an old '80's aftermarket kit and a OEM Mazda RX-7 unit in the attic, but I'm assuming the electronics have gotten better over time with stepper motors vs. these old vacuum systems. Which kit did you select?
  7. I've killed a couple of the copper ring / red sealant gaskets. Only once did the fire ring move, usually pressure just gets past and erodes the gasket behind, strangely it's typically where I have the most nip. Current Goetze gasket is holding up so far to my abuse. 100+ ftlbs on ARP head studs. I wonder how the wet liner motor would like a multi layer metal gasket, should one be offered?
  8. I had one gasket torqued to 80-85 ftlbs on assembly, that took less than 50 ftlbs to disassemble. I can only imagine that heat cycles allow some further compression of the gasket? I've had a liner lift out from just the ring friction so don't turn the crank until the clamps are on! If you use the liner clamps you should be able to rotate the crank. My memory was having the crank at something like 30* BTDC while doing the assembly for extra valve clearance and bring it to TDC for the belt install.
  9. Another Idaho Lotus would be nice, not to many here.
  10. My sympathies; Been there, blown that thrice. I had a serial gasket failures from under torque and higher boost, but in the end it will come together. Don't forget the magnets on the cam buckets to keep your shims in the cam housing when you pull it off!
  11. Sad admission Barry, thought better of you. Here in the states it seems to be standard procedure for many drivers to loaf along on the two lane at under the limit, only to speed up 10+mph when in the passing lanes, then to slow again after. I hate to admit this quickens my blood considerably.
  12. Watched a M10x 40 bell housing bolt and washer jump into the timing port of my Esprit bell housing, disappearing down past the clutch into the bowels of the bell housing. Over an hours scrabbling with my best neodymium magnets on my back in the dirty dark as I contemplated having to separate the trans and engine, before I managed to pull both out through the clutch fork hole.
  13. OK , so with my 14 ohm full tank sender reading. I tried some resistances to see what the gauge would show; -22 ohms took it down to 3/4 -10 lined it up with the 4/4 mark -8 ohms took it to a needle width above the 4/4 mark So I made a pigtail with a 10 ohm resistor in it and put it inline with the GB wire, and I'll see how it turns out..
  14. Checked my sender with 7 miles on a full tank, and am seeing 14 ohms. Power from the stabilizer was 10.03 volts. I haven't seen definitive specs for the sender, but I think it's supposed to be 30 ohms full and 190-200 empty, maybe going open circuit at the bottom? Anyway, I'm going to add a series resistor to the gauge wire to bring the needle closer to the full mark, then see how that affects the balance of the scale. Miles to go before I'll know.
  15. SJ's kit replaces the clevis and pin on the end of the cable with a ball joint held to the cross gate lever with a bolt, so substitute (pin through clevis) for 6mm bolt through ball joint- SJ Sportscars; Remove the existing rod from the end of the cable. At this stage, check that the cable if free by operating it side – side. There should be no resistance. If there is resistance, fit a new cable. Check that the cable end gaiter is in place. Screw the rod on the cable, until a bolt can be fitted in the ball joint, when the gearlever is roughly upright. Tighten the 6 mm bolt and check the gear change. Screwing the rod on or off the cable provides fine adjustment. To check it is correct, use 5th and reverse gears as a guide. Move the lever across to 5th, when you reach the 5th gear stop, it should go straight forward into 5th. If it does not screw the rod on or off, 1/2 turn at a time, until it does. When you have this right, check reverse in a similar manner. Limited further adjustment can be done to improve reverse. Should you reach a point when reverse gets better at the expense of 5th, a new cable is required. From another post; The cross gate cable pulls the linkage to get 1st and 2nd...3rd and 4th are the middle of the gate to which the system is sprung loaded. 5th requires a bit of a push from the cable, and reverse a large push. Cables don't push very well! The side to side motion of the gearshift is transmitted to the bellcrank crossgate lever which moves the cross shaft side to side to engage any of the 4 selector shafts. This cable is adjustable in length, which determines the amount of sideways motion on the cross shaft. But, this adjustment is finite and the cable can/does stretch to the point where it can no longer move the crossgate lever sufficiently to move the cross shaft enough to engage a particular selector shaft. At this point, the cable must be replaced. But, you may simply have a misadjusted one. You'll need to get under the car and you'll see a rod connected to the crossgate lever on the transmission with a clevis pin and a springclip. Remove the clip and free the extension rod from the lever. Follow the lever toward the front of the car and you'll see where it attaches to the crossgate cable. Loosen the locknut and rotate the extension rod clockwise to shorten it (this will make 1st/2nd gear easier to engage) or counterclockwise to lengthen it (this will make 5th and reverse easier to engage). You can only turn in 1/2 turn increments. At each turn, replace the extension rod on the crossgate lever and try the gearshift. Keep trying this until the feel is right, but remember that when you add favor to one side, you reduce it to the other. If you can't get the proper adjustment, you'll need to replace the cable. Hope this helps. Happy Motoring!..Jim '85TE If it's really out of whack you might try manually putting the cross gate lever into a known gear and seeing how well the disconnected cable lines up with the hole in the lever when the shift knob is in position for that gear.
  16. 2 & 3 + Don't forget the magnets between the cams and buckets for reassembly.
  17. Seems that one should have been a molded curve from the factory!
  18. Thank you all for the feedback, the fuel gauge sender / calibration went well down the priority list.
  19. Are those pipes available in stainless, or thicker aluminium?
  20. Making up a possible 15% fuel shortfall in wide open throttle would depend on the authority range and response speed of the ECU's O2 feedback loop, and whether closed loop is used in the WFO condition. To many variables for any certainty, I was talking off the top of my head given the surprising performance difference described by the OP. RC is not very descriptive on injector specs on the website, I would hope these would be a modern multi hole spray to replace the old pintle style.
  21. After ten years of ownership, I finally met another Lotus owner last weekend; well, a few of them actually!
  22. Some of the dozen or so Esprit that showed up for the Lotus Owners Gathering in Salt Lake City Utah last weekend
  23. Anyone else have an issue with this spec? Without a fuel pressure input, how would the ECU determine pulse width vs. fuel flow at varying pressures? 55psi is 83% more than 30psi, mixtures can't vary by that much. I suspect the spec. range is for absolute to atmosphere, but there must be a static pressure target referenced to to the manifold pressure, probably mid range around 1 Bar or 43psi. Running 320's in a 370 engine probably gave Robin a bit of a "lean is mean" tune, the shaking hands knew that something was wrong, glad they got pulled out in time!
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