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  1. I think you'll find posts on lotustalk regarding the switch. They all have exposed copper contacts that could use a cleaning after almost 40 years, you might luck out with that. Easy to disassemble once they're out, but take care with the old brittle plastic.

    I made a new rocker for my switch, but someone has a nylon printed replacement available on Shapeways.

    There's a Land Rover switch with similar size and contacts that will work, but not look original. TR-7 has a switch that looks close to the same but the pins are different.







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  2. Without looking at the wiring diagram and assuming the 84 is same as an 85:

    Indicators and hazards wire though the same switch, which has been know to break internally (repairable) and use a nontypical (5?) pin electronic relay. Check to see if you have the correct one installed.

    As Carbuff says start by swapping out headlight relays with known good ones of the right type (changeover or dual contact) Relay sockets might need cleaning / inspection.

    Interior and door lights run off the doorjamb switches, which can be removed and cleaned if they aren't switching, and then to a (yellow) delay unit behind the glovebox. The interior light pivots to switch on/off/doors



  3. When you are zipping into the inky night scanning for black bears and the dreaded moose, you don't want a bright dash lighting up your retinas.

    I've got an non-dimming AFR gauge that's so bright I can't keep my night vision. The gauge LED's are so embedded in the circuit board I can't isolate them to add a dimmer circuit, so I've had to fabricate a silly flip up cap with a tinted lens. But my driving is in a rural area on the main beams most of the time, if I was driving in town it might not bother me.  

    Here in the States it seems DOT has required that your high beam indicator be brighter than the actual view from outside. A pet peeve of mine usually resolved with a well-placed sticker, but occasionally with a resistor on the lamp.


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  4. I would assume you could shift the aux pulley a tooth relative to the belt and change the range of timing available, if you need to go for more.  Don't know the Eclat specs, but I shoot for total advance  about 3000 rpm and then where the idle timing ends up depends on your distributor specs, advance mechanisms & condition.  My Turbo 910 doesn't seem to notice the difference between 10 and 13 FWIW.

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