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snowrx

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Everything posted by snowrx

  1. Stainless has a tendency to gall, especially if someone has changed the studs to stainless also.
  2. When it comes time to get the nuts back off, any cost of anti-corrosion measures will seem trivial! But there's lots of hardware out there, there should be many versions of the common M10 x 1.5 for the high heat application if you shop around. I used inexpensive copper coated flange nuts, but I'm guessing the pricy stuff should be better. Use some high temp anti-seize compound on reassembly. If you want cheap: https://www.ebay.com/itm/114752638662?hash=item1ab7ca4ec6:g:SE4AAOSwWJJgaZ20
  3. You might want to use your car's fuel pump to empty the tanks as much as possible before you open up the lower plumbing. Safer than draining it in bulk if you can pull a fuel line and pump right into your cans. Keep your battery charged.
  4. I replaced mine when I switched to EFI, it wasn't to bad with the engine out.
  5. You may be able to get in the flasher socket with a jeweler's screwdriver and tighten up the metal connectors (just a little bit) to get a better grip on the flasher blades. The connectors come out the back of the fuse block, but I've not been motivated enough yet to see what access is like back there. Where did you find a new flasher? Those were hard to find last time I looked.
  6. Well for what it's worth here's what a LHD USA car looks like. Ignore the vacuum pump on the right side of the left side shot (2) and it's wires.
  7. Perils of progress, I guess. A pet peeve of mine, that the energy efficiency of LED's is negated by making CAN bulbs into into heaters just to tell the car there's a bulb in place. I would assume that unless you live in traffic that an indicator bulb's duty cycle is low enough to not melt anything?
  8. Not up to speed on Evora, but could you avoid the hyperflash by using an electronic flasher, and then use non-resistor bulbs that did not have to dump voltage as heat? Or would the Car's computer have a fit about low current draw in the circuit?
  9. Don't have a village, but do have bears!
  10. A proper four seasons here so the other car has to be prepared- my Snowrx. Studded Hakkapelitta's and a bunch of STi bits make for a decent snow car. Two decades from new means lots of brakes and suspension sacrificed to the salt gremlins though.
  11. I don't need my phone to drive, but made a temporary mount to slip on my G-car console for suction cup mounts. I just cut it out of a piece of stainless, probably a tea tray or such that the wife won't miss.
  12. I think you'll find posts on lotustalk regarding the switch. They all have exposed copper contacts that could use a cleaning after almost 40 years, you might luck out with that. Easy to disassemble once they're out, but take care with the old brittle plastic. I made a new rocker for my switch, but someone has a nylon printed replacement available on Shapeways. There's a Land Rover switch with similar size and contacts that will work, but not look original. TR-7 has a switch that looks close to the same but the pins are different.
  13. Without looking at the wiring diagram and assuming the 84 is same as an 85: Indicators and hazards wire though the same switch, which has been know to break internally (repairable) and use a nontypical (5?) pin electronic relay. Check to see if you have the correct one installed. As Carbuff says start by swapping out headlight relays with known good ones of the right type (changeover or dual contact) Relay sockets might need cleaning / inspection. Interior and door lights run off the doorjamb switches, which can be removed and cleaned if they aren't switching, and then to a (yellow) delay unit behind the glovebox. The interior light pivots to switch on/off/doors
  14. I tried to get a photo of my 85's switch in place, but I would need to pull out a bunch of ducts to get to it and I gave up. Looks like an endoscope job!
  15. It is big and bulbous, for a Lotus. But, alas so am I and I want one, just not enough to put the Esprit out of the garage at this point.
  16. Given it's a Caterham, more likely after she's been aboard!
  17. When you are zipping into the inky night scanning for black bears and the dreaded moose, you don't want a bright dash lighting up your retinas. I've got an non-dimming AFR gauge that's so bright I can't keep my night vision. The gauge LED's are so embedded in the circuit board I can't isolate them to add a dimmer circuit, so I've had to fabricate a silly flip up cap with a tinted lens. But my driving is in a rural area on the main beams most of the time, if I was driving in town it might not bother me. Here in the States it seems DOT has required that your high beam indicator be brighter than the actual view from outside. A pet peeve of mine usually resolved with a well-placed sticker, but occasionally with a resistor on the lamp.
  18. Look into the dimming of the LED's if you drive at night. If the vendor doesn't provide a dimming provision, you can add a inexpensive PWM module to give full range dimming.
  19. Not fond of the white, but black or magnolia are to my taste. Large type on Magnolia seem easier to read at a glance, but black the more traditional look on an "older" car
  20. I'm guessing it would be cheaper to modify an existing oversize bushing, but you can cast your own. There's a Grassroots motorsports (or Classic Motorsports?) magazine article on casting your own bushings that I can't find, but heres some bushing fab discussion; https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/how-to-make-your-own-delrin-an/140312/page1/ And of course YouTube;
  21. On my car there were two vacuum lines, one to the front intake manifold runner, and one to the carb(orange in my diagram). The carb one is probably ported, in that the throttle plate uncovers the port as you add fun pedal. That's the one you want for the distributor advance solenoid/capsule
  22. Orientation of fracture face looks like rollers impacted the race from behind? With the taper of the race I don't know how that could happen unless somehow a puller could catch them from behind.
  23. I think that #94 tee is labeled emissions because it would have originally first gone to the air injection diverter valve before it continued up front to power the HVAC controls. In your diagram I would tee the boost gauge feed from your "Blue" line (#12) before the solenoid, not the orange one after it.
  24. Never mind Tommy, I want your trailer!
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