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Everything posted by snowrx

  1. I love those, but don't remember seeing one on the PC site
  2. When I went looking for a better belt for my G-car, I found that one of the older Nissan motors used a trapezoidal belt, for which Gates makes the T104RB "racing" Blue Belt. 1mm narrower than OEM, but the better material and slips right on. So if you still have a trapezoidal pully set, there's an option for you.
  3. A thicker head gasket to offset machining somewhat?
  4. Thanks for posting pics, too far for me to drive there.
  5. Hate to say I got one of these mostly on appearances, as my last CD unit was a fugly, tiny-buttoned mess and I didn't want to stow CD's in the car anyway. No nav on this one, just a basic MP3 player running on Win CE I think. Like most aftermarket stuff, FM reception in the woods is limited.
  6. Might just be the difference between fuel injection and carbs/distributor, the tuning needs to be good at idle to allow the engine to pick up the extra load. If you think about it, a steady idle is a balance between engine friction and engine torque when you're out of gear. Adding load without throttle upsets the balance. A modern engine has an idle air control valve and likely adds timing at low idle speed to bring up rpms up to spec as loads are added. Now if you're having to add a lot of gas to get going, maybe there are sticky brakes or clutch engagement is unpredictable?
  7. Listed my car numerous times, checked numerous categories, all returned "(0) assemblies" It did tell me the nearest dealers were at 240, 839 and 1479 miles away.
  8. MY '85 has the thermostat in the top of the water pump below the hose elbow, but its a USA car and might have been switched by a prior owner.
  9. From one of the manuals; Cars used in hot climates a r e f i t t e d w i t h a b l u e c o l o u r coded switch which makes/breaks a t temperatures of 82/72OC. The switching point f o r c a r s i n temperate climates was r a i s e d from 86/76 t o t h e 92/82 of the c u r r e n t green colour coded switch. A thermometer and a continuity meter can check the setpoints as you heat it in a pan of water on the stove. I assume they are stating "Close/Open" temps above, ie Cose at 92C/ Open at 82C.
  10. Your diagram looks fine. you are just closing the circuit as if the coolant had exceeded the Fan On temperature. I have been interchanging "Otter" with "Fan" switch as the fan switch is commonly referred to as the "Otter". I can't comment on the other Otter switch as my later car only has diodes feeding the fan fail switch.
  11. You've already done it by shorting the Otter switch leads. Add a switch in parallel with the Otter and you'll have manual control of your fans.
  12. If you don't find the Switches and sensors as described, they wandered about the car over the years. On my '85 USA car the temp sensor is in the back of the water pump housing, and the Otter switch is low on the J pipe below the alternator.
  13. Tight battery terminals is one thing, clean ones another. I've had numerous cars get a bit of crusty corrosion inside the battery terminals that will pass enough voltage to run accessories, but not the current needed to crank the engine. Always a happy fix when it occurs!
  14. On my '85 Turbo the black lamp grounds were gathered in the binnacle in a big splice . I just took the grounds for the instrument illumination bulbs and gave them a separate common splice to run to the PWM controller output. These controllers start at $3USD on Ebay, I couldn't build one for that. Two wires in, two wires out, I spent more time mounting the potentiometer and making a knob.
  15. If you want to be able to dim those LEDs over a full range, you can use an inexpensive pulse width modulation (PWM) control if you isolate the grounds.
  16. Yep that's as built! If you are handy with a soldering iron here's what I did to get directional turn signal indicators, just tapping turn voltage off the hazard light switch wires. I added new sockets so I could still keep my Inverter wiring intact.😼
  17. Yep that's the heater hose. Some have proposed that the heater hose promotes coolant circulation in the head #4 rear area, as the other exit is the elbow between intake runners #3&4. I would assume for an early car that would only apply when the heater is on, and I don't know if there's any history of #4 running hot. You could use a wide hose clamp on the hose if it's not too brittle and see how it goes.
  18. @Pyscho- I hate to say it but the gradual loss of coolant you're seeing is what the beginning of the end of my last head gasket looked like. I kept thinking I was bleeding out air, or had overfilled, but a head gasket put an end to it. Maybe try a combustion gas check on your coolant?
  19. On my Turbo, I made up a plate from 3mm steel plate, with a doubler inside the frunk, that sandwiched the frunk floor to spread the load in the plane of the floor. Obviously for light duty use, but much easier than groveling under the car or damaging the spoiler. It's pulled the car down the road , and onto a flatbed so far. Not sure the layout on an S2 though...
  20. Not a hand tool, but I fabricated a roller steady rest to bore the bearing recess with my cheapo lathe. A good machine shop should have no problem given the bearing and bare crank.
  21. No Esprit with me. Overall I'd be miserable wedging it's 72" width through French alleys. Plus it's an ocean away, and with shipping being what it is these days, it might never make it back home! Just a rental Fiat 500 to slip through the urban bits. I will say it's nice to be able to rent a manual transmission car, almost unheard-of in the USA. I was in Loheac, at the Maison d'Automobile adjacent to the circuit. Supposedly 400 cars there (but only 3 Lotus that I noticed). One of the outfits that rent laps in supercars started unloading a transporter. Sounded great, but cars like these seem like too much work to own.
  22. Walked out of a museum and into a lot full of exotics yesterday. (Well, there was one Bullit Mustang in the mix, but I guess that's different enough here)
  23. How's $USD 135K sound?
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