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  • Name
  • Car
    1979 Lotus Esprit S2 (Yellow)
  • Modifications
    Crazing and bad earths!
  • Location
    Ormskirk, Lancashire

lotusesprits2's Achievements


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  1. Thanks Steve - spot on (seal fitted as described). Chris, I have no experience of after market air filters but do read this and other threads regarding potential safety issues i.e. possible fuel spilling onto ignition sources. Will.
  2. Evening Bibs, 1. Rich H 2. RobertC 3. MarkS2 4. Tony Chapman 5. lotusesprits2 Cheers, Will.
  3. A bit tenuous (and stupid) I know, but is there a right way round for the standard panel filter within the wonderfully designed air filter box? I've only just got around to fitting the rubber seal around the panel filter and it looks like it can go in either way. I'm sure there's an obvious answer that'll make be feel dumb but I can live with that! Thanks, Will.
  4. Hi Chris, just in case you never sorted it..... Headlight wiring (S2) – as already discussed, there isn’t a relay in the headlight dipped beam circuit. The power comes from the dashboard switch via a blue wire to the column stalk switch, then via blue/red wires to the headlights. The only relays you should have are for the main beam (flash) and the headlight motors. However, the whole circuitry around that area can be troublesome as it’s interconnected at various points and watch out for a few diodes along the way to boot! Checking the earths is always a good start. If it helps with relay identification at all, the headlight flash relay is the 4 pin relay with the blue/white wire going to its coil (85), and the motor relay is the 5 pin with the purple/yellow going to its coil (85). You may have 4 relays. Some cars have a bonnet foul micro switch in the earth connection (black) to the motor relay. Hope this is some use! Best of luck, Will.
  5. Thanks Pete - for some reason I thought they were 3/8 UNF but contacted Steve at SJ who tells me they're M8. Should be easy to verify as I've tons of M8 nuts about. A job for after tea..... Thanks, Will.
  6. Michael, I think the majorityare all talking about cam cover gaskets. I think the majority view is that careful preparation, following the correct fitting procedures, and using proven materials is the key to success. Therefore using the paper gasket, recommended sealant and taking the time to clean the surfaces thoroughly (and adhering to the correct torque measurements) should result in a quality outcome. Makes sense really - why didn't I think of that????!!!! I've answered my own question really - but this is what the forum is all about. Will.
  7. Thanks Paul, I'm in Devon in August on holiday and my wife just won't believe me when I tell her that SJ Sportscars will make a great day out! I'll call in (alone?) and get a grommet and possibly spend more pocket money on some bits and bobs. It's her loss........ Any tips on draining the gearbox i.e. jacking up/down, flushing, warming etc. Thanks, Will.
  8. Some good feedback so far! There are many benefits to the forum but I'm always impressed at how all this combined experience helps us make much better informed decisions. Based on what I've read already, and other non-forum feedback, I'm tending towards the traditional paper/fibre gaskets. Tony K - where would I get my hands on the Mercedes-Benz "Surface Sealing" or Victor Reinz "Reinzosil"? Have i read somewhere that RTV sealant is also good? I completely agree on the essential preparation and cleaning irrespective of the gasket materials. The tip about removing the three rungs is very useful and makes sense. Thanks Tony. Will.
  9. Hi all, Anyone know what the thread size is for the 8 nyloc nuts that are used to mount the seat runners through the floor? I don't think they're metric. Thanks in advance, Will.
  10. Cheers Phil, Andy - much appreciated. At £26.99 plus p&p (a pair) they are still attractive (if they work!) over the traditional paper/fabric versions (£7.00ea plus p&P) but you do have to have straight covers and the surface areas need to be scrupulously clean. It'd be interesting to find out if the torque settings need altering. I'll wait for more feedback (fingers crossed). For those that are interested, please see link: Thanks, Will.
  11. Good man Gavin - spurred on by your comments, I have now chnaged the belt (successfully) - as suggested, working slowly and methodically. Checked tension with a borrowed gauge and what a sense of satisfaction! Will.
  12. Hi all, Anyone used the replacement rubber cam cover gaskets available from the likes of Kent High Performance Engines? The attraction is there's no need for sealant, they're re-useable and dare I say it they stop the inevitable oil leaks onto the exhaust. They are a reasonable price. I'm interested in anyone's experience with them and if they actually do what they say (no disrespect to the manufacturers/suppliers). Thanks, Will.
  13. Hi Vin, Number plate lamp wiring - you should have a red(+) and black(-) from your right hand side tail lamp (main cluster) which goes to the right number plate lamp. It's then a red and black loop across between the two number plate lamps. They are very short so now's your chance to extend. Simon, thanks for the pointer to the new number plate lamps on Ebay. I spent a while refurb'ing mine, much to the amusement of my wife. If I'd have known they were a couple of quid I wouldn't have bothered! Now to Ebay..... Thanks, Will.
  14. ....should've gone to Specsavers........ Thanks Pete, how on earth I missed the filler plug given my grommet has long since departed! Many thanks - once again the forum has proved absolutely invaluable. I've got more done on the car in the short time I've been using the forum than in 20+ years of ownership. Time to stop talking and start doing.... Thanks again Pete. Will.
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