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  1. My personal opinion is the older car still represent alot of value for money, especially when compared with the newer model. I deliberated for a long time if I would buy a 400 which would essentially cost the same as buying the existing Evora NA again plus some. I think for this reason, the dealers can get good prices on the older models as to some extent its easier man math justification. As with all things we want the cars to be worth as much as possible when we sell, but want the arse to drop out of it when buying
  2. I took them off as putting my private plates on, and also makes it easier to clean. Documented evidence I am taking good care of it
  3. Ok the sun is out so here are some pics, I am not the worlds best photographer, but hopefully you get the idea
  4. Sounds appealing, be interested to hear your thoughts once you have completed all stages and if you think its worth the cost.
  5. Never tried any of the Nano stuff, I assume you went this route to reduce effort, always looked more "fiddly" to me? Quality of wax certainly seems to have an impact on the effort required, this Blackfire stuff is super easy to apply and remove.
  6. Photos are coming JAWS (I assume you are prone to a little car cleaning then?), if its not raining tomorrow and I get a break from work I hope to get out. My Karcher K4 has an attachment to draw water from a water pump, but I can never be bothered to run the pipe, so the watering cans are simpler and easy to use Will post pictures in this post as available. Snow Foam Doing its thing:
  7. They will come, still raining. I did all the above in the evenings in the garage
  8. * Disclaimer - This post won't be for everyone So if for you a car is just for driving, and the idea of washing is either the car wash, or some fairly liquid in the mop bucket, its probably best you mark this thread as read and move on As posted elsewhere I picked up my Evora 400 last week, and it got pretty filthy on its trip back from Edinburgh , and since then I have either been busy or the weather has been crap. However it has given me an opportunity to take care of some detailing activities. The previous owner did indeed take great care of the car, but I like to go over my cars and give them a detailing to keep them looking top notch, protect them from the elements and make future cleaning easier. I am not a professional detailer, very much in the hobbiest camp, but though I would share my process and products used, and when the rain stops take and post some pictures. First I started with the engine bay, I think this is an area often over looked by people, but really shows care of ownership and makes things that little more impressive when people look under the hood. Autoglym Engine Degreaser - Spray on an liberally and allow to penetrate, slight agitation with a detailing brush on any gummed up areas. Gentle hose off, keeping free from electrical areas, engine heat drying and mop up with a microfibre cloth. 303 Aerospace Protectant - Spray on liberally over all surfaces and leave overnight (I also used this on the rubber door and boot rubbers. Next morning wipe up any liquid pooling with a microfibre cloth. Next I moved onto the interior, I prefer to do this before any washing to keep everything nice and dry. I use my Karcher wet and dry vac to clean the carpets, and pull any dirt from nooks and crannies, also use a detailing brush to get at the dust in hard to reach places like the window switches and vents. Gliptone Liquid Leather Cleaner and Conditioner - Each applied sparingly with a foam applicator and then buffed off with a microfibre cloth. Keeps things clean, and provides that new leather smell to the car. I applied this on the seats, and leather trim on the dash, doors and the piece on the underside of the engine / boot lid. Auto Finesse Spritz Interior Quick Detailer - I spray sparingly onto a microfibre cloth and wipe over the plastics, then turn the cloth to wipe / buff off. I also used this on the door handles, centre console and backs of the seats. Auto Finesse Crystal Glass Cleaner - I spray this sparingly onto all internal and external windows, wipe around with a microfibre cloth and leave to dry for a couple of mins, before buffing off with a microfibre towel. Autoglym Autofresh - I am not a big fan of air fresheners dangling from places in the car, so I prefer to give a sparing little spray of autofresh to the carpet areas, and it helps the car smell as clean as it looks, and it works ok with the leather smell. Next I moved onto the wheels. I removed them to give them and the wheel arches a good clean, and then apply some wax and sealant to protect and make future cleaning easier. Auto Finesse Iron Out - Spray on liberally to the wheels and wheel arch and leave for around 10 minutes to allow penetration, goes all purple as the contaminants fall off. Once done I give it a good blast with the pressure washer. Muck Off Bike Cleaner - This is my go to cleaner of use on wheels, its citrus based (so no acid to peel off the lacquer) and works well on brake dust grime. I spray on and leave for 10 minutes, then wash off with car shampoo and then give a good blast with the pressure washer. Meguiars Gold Class Shampoo - I always use the two bucket method when cleaning (one with just water for cleaning off the wash mitt, and one with the shampoo in), and the only reason I use the Gold Class is because it used to be my shampoo of choice and I have some left over, but it does produce a nice foaming clean. 303 Aerospace Protectant - I give this a general spray in the wheel arch area to return blacks and provide a level of water replant protection. I just leave this and put the clean wheels back on. P21S Wax - After cleaning the wheels and leaving to dry, I apply a coat of P21S wax. This used to be my wax of choice so I have alot left, but it provides a nice gloss finish which is great of black wheels. I apply with a foam pad, and then buff off with a microfibre towel. Poorboys Wheel Sealant - Even though wax on its own works really well to keep the brake dust from sticking firmly to the wheels, it can "burn up" with some aggressive braking over time. So a couple of times a year I apply a couple of layers of Poorboys Wheel Sealant. I apply it with a foam applicator and leave to dry for about 10 minutes, then I buff off with a microfibre cloth, and then apply another coat with the same process. This sealant provides a more temperature resistant coating and makes cleaning easier for longer. "Any Brand" Tyre Dressing - I have tried many different types of tyre dressing over the years and I find them all of a muchness, none last as long as I would like, so I just go with what is on offer at the time. I do apply this with a tyre dressing applicator, but you can use a foam pad. The key is to apply is sparingly, less really is more here, and then leave it as long as possible to dry before using the car to avoid black flicks all down the side of a clean car. I also recommend wearing disposable gloves when doing this, as this stuff is always messy and slimey. Finally onto the car body itself. I don't have a method here, other than I use two buckets and a microfibre mitt, and I always wash from the top down. I also use a microfibre towel for drying, and I also have the extravagance of a Metro Vac Air Blaster I treated myself too, that I use to dry all the water off the car when I have time on my hands to ensure a drip free finish. PA Foam Lance & Super Snow Foam - I put a mix of Snow Foam and Water into the Foam Lance bottle as per the instructions, I then cover the car and allow to slide off over a 10 - 15 minute period. This takes alot of the dirt and grime off in the pre-wash, making it easier to clean and further reduces the chance of swirling when washing. I the pressure washer off prior to cleaning. Meguairs Ultimate Wash and Wax - I like this shampoo as it smells ok, has a good foam and doesn't leave much in the way of streaks. I put a small amount in the bucket and power the water in to provide a nice foam, and then apply with the microfibre mitt, rinsing in the rinse bucket after each contact with the car and before going back into the shampoo. This was the cleaning bucket stays pretty clean and the rinse bucket starts going black and dirty, so this was you are always washing with clean water. Rain Water & Two Watering Cans - If you use water from the tap (especially on a warm day) you have to make sure you get the car dried fast, otherwise you end up with water spots. You can purchase expensive filters to remove all the fluoride and stuff, but its much cheaper and easier to use water from a water butt if you have one. I use two 13l watering cans to wash off the shampoo, one I am using and the other is filling up ready to switch over. This was I get pretty much no dried water spots, so if I run out of time and can't dry off properly I don't risk water etching on the paint. Micro Fibre Towel or Air Blaster - Its been a long time since I used a chamois, these days I prefer a really absorbent microfibre towel, I don't favour a particular brand, but prefer to have a couple incase one gets too wet. I just leave them to dry naturally, and pop in the wash every now and then when other towels. I just drag the towel across the panels and watch it soak up the water. Farecla G3 Body Prep Clay Mitt & Detailing Spray - Depending on where you use your car and how you store it, it will pick up various road film and contaminants. After cleaning your car gently rub the back of your hand across a body panel, if it feels a little rough then this is the road contaminants that have built up, and these cannot be removed with just washing. So, now we use detailing clay and a detailing clay to keep the area really wet to allow good clay movement and reduce the chance of micro scratching. This is a time consuming process, and since finding the G3 clay mitt it has made things alot easier, but make sure you only work a small area at a time, or the detailing spray will just dry up. You can use water, but for the couple of times you need to do this if you maintain your car well, a detailing spray is better. So spray the detailing solution liberally, and then gently rub the clay material over the body panel in a forward and back motion, it will feel a little rough at first, but then will glide when the area is contaminant free. Now wipe dry with a microfibre cloth and feel with the back of your hand again, should be silky smooth. Dual Action Polisher - I use my old trusty Porter Cable polisher, but there are so many good options available these days and you have to be very careless to damage your paint using one. I only tend to use this for paint correction (nothing major) and for general polish application. I used to use it for buffing also, but sometimes it can get abit hot and leave marring, so I prefer to do this by hand now. My pro tip is to use a velcro backed pad attachment to make changing pads easier, and always start with the least abrasive solution and pad you have, you can always go more aggressive, but you cant easily undo a mistake. Personally I like Lake Country pads, they are well priced and don't cake up too easily. Blackfire Gloss Enhancing Polish - This is a non abrasive polish, so is perfect for super light corrections, if you have bad swirls and more major scratches you need to go for something else, but this sort of thing is fine to use a couple of times a year and not worrying about removing to much in the paint layer. I apply this with my DA polisher at about 4000 OPM (Orbits Per Minute), and only put a couple of 10p sized blobs on the pad and dab this over the area I am about to polish, so it doesnt all flick off when I turn the polisher on. I do a total of 4 passes typically, horizontal, then vertical, then horizontal, then vertical. After this there should be a fine film of polish, then I buff off straight away with a microfibre towel. Things should look pretty good now, you can do another pass if your not 100% happy. Blackfire All Finish Pain Protection - This provides an initial level of protection to seal in that nicely polished finish we just achieved, it also helps to bring out the glossiness of the paint. I apply this with a foam applicator pad in circular motions, you only need a couple of blobs of the protectant on the pad, and work a couple of panels at a time achieving a thin hazy film. I then leave this for 10 minutes, then come back with a microfibre towel and begin buffing off the film from where I first started the application through to where I finished. Blackfire Midnight Sun Paste Wax - This provides the final seal of our work so far, providing a resilient barrier and providing a deeper wet glossy look (especially on black paint). Similar approach is followed to that of the paint protection, but I leave it on slightly longer before buffing off. Its worth noting if you use too much wax this is typically when you get the bad white residue, so less is more you can always add more to the pad. Blackfire Midnight Sun Instant Detailer - This is the final (semi unnecessary stage) of what Blackfire call the "Wet Fire Over Ice finish". The paint finish should look amazing by now, but you may have some little bits of film residue left from the application and buffing. So spray the detailing spray in a fine mist of a panel at a time and then move around a little with a microfibre cloth and then buff off to reveal the final gleaming finish with a microfibre towel. You are now very tired if you did this all in one day, but the results are worth it. Now its time for a deserving beer and waiting for optimal weather to occur before showing off your work to the world (I mean you don't want to get it dirty now ).
  9. JayEmm just saw your latest video where you mention the paint defect on your roof. I have been slowly detailing my car this week (pics to come) and it also has two similar paint defects on the roof, so you are not alone, but I also don't consider it a big deal. Interesting to hear you are getting it sorted under warranty, I will deffo take some pics of mine for when its next due in for some work.
  10. Nothing but good stuff to report when I have dealt with Paul and his team. Yet again I am surprised to find another Worcester Evora owner, so hi from me
  11. That does look awesome, be interested to hear your thoughts after you have a few miles under your belt.
  12. Cheers, I wonder if Lotus will send some out of if its a trip to the dealer job. I will contact the garage. Thanks Dale
  13. Was just looking at the car this morning, and noticed the side reflectors are not fully reflective. By that I mean its kinds reflective at the top and dull at the bottom, I was thinking it looks like there might be water in the lower half. Anyone else had this same issue? Was it water or a reflector defect?
  14. My old car is now up on the Murrays website for sale, dealer pricing as to be expected. If anyone decides to go for it, happy to provide any background on the car.
  15. Guess I should post in here now. I changed from a 2010 NA Evora to a late 2015 Evora 400 (Colin G's old 400) and my 4th Lotus now
  16. The car I just parted with is in excellent condition and fully spec'd, its a 2010 edition, but low mileage with just under 12k mileage. I don't know how much they are planning to put it up for but I would imagine it will be above 30k not below.
  17. James, I think you need to consider a slightly older car to get into your price bracket. You tend to pay more money for a newer car, even if the mileage is slightly higher than an older car.
  18. I think the fact is that the Evora turned out to be a much better car than people thought, and as a result I think the 2nd hand market price has remained really good, which is great if you are a current owner, but sucks if your trying to make a purchase, but this is the case with any brand. I think when you find the right car, with the right spec a couple of grand is soon forgotten for the enjoyment, if you don't feel it, then its probably not the right one for you, as there is not alot worse that buyers remorse. As with all things in life you get what you pay for. A lower priced car will have higher mileage, less spec and potentially less well cared for.
  19. This is looking rather awesome indeed.
  20. Good to meet you also Steve Its still raining here, so no cleaning action, but no one washes the cars but me, I dont trust anyone else
  21. Yup I was the mad one who drove for 10 hours in the mega crappy weather Cant wait for it to stop raining
  22. Cheers Colin. I have just been and measured mine. The EVORA is 18cm long so no change, the T is 25mm high on the S1 Evora, so its no optical illusion, it is a larger L O T U S
  23. Strange request. Could someone with an Evora 400 measure the size of one of the L O T U S letters please, and also the Evora badge if possible. Trying to identify if the lettering is slightly larger on the 400 of if its an optical illusion. Thanks in advance.
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