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madmax

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About madmax

  • Rank
    LOT

Profile Information

  • Gender
    Male

More Info

  • Name
    simon gaunt
  • Car
    Europa TC Special, Elite, ‘82 Esprit Turbo, ‘88 Esprit
  • Modifications
    As original as circumstances will permit apart from stainless upgrades
  • Location
    Ilkley
  • Country

Recent Profile Visitors

2,313 profile views
  1. Thanks again guys Checked it out and of course there’s a bodged fitting of the wire to the top fitting of the two showing in the picture - not sure what it is as the sender seems to be the lower wire. SJ sell a new pipe for £100 plus plus but it doesn’t come with anything in those holes and so the parts that fit into the holes will hopefully be cheap. Senders are normally only a few quid but I can’t see how the top thing unscrews. Money little thing after another ...... That was supposed to say one little thing after another ......... !
  2. Thank you Ill check that area - I’ve seen wires to it but assumed it was the otter switch.
  3. since working recently on a few issues I have everything back together but don’t get a temperature reading on the dash gauge and wonder if I’ve knocked a lead off somewhere. Where is the water temperature sender located on a 1982 Turbo as I’ve not been able to find it. The gauge used to work so there must be one Thanks
  4. Thanks Its the 82 Turbo with inboard discs. The piston turns reasonably well although I’ve not tried to push it back yet once turned. Its quite badly pitted on its surface but I don’t know how much of a job they are to replace. SJ appear to have the pistons for about forty quid each but goodness knows what might be involved replacing them. Hooefully it will push back if I can align it all properly and let some fluid out of the bleed screw. These dark nights are made for stuff like this. Simon
  5. Ok chaps somehow managed to free the Caliper and remove the pads which is real progress but the piston on the nearside Caliper is out about 2cm. It is relatively shiny in its length but at the pad abutment end it’s just rust coloured with a large slot in it. This I presume is the slot used to turn the piston in an attempt to free a self adjusting ratchet. With molegrips providing a gentle hold of this rusty end of the piston, the piston actually turns surprisingly freely with just a bit of resistance. I haven’t been able to push the piston back yet. Plan is to slacken off bleed screw and perhaps use a clamp to push it back if I’m able to align it correctly. Any further advice would be great. The manual speaks about a damper spring but I don’t know where that should be. On disassembly there doesn’t appear to be any spring Thanks again
  6. Thank you - that looks like it could be really useful. Simon
  7. Thank you - that looks like it could be really useful. Simon
  8. I may try next time I’m underneath. It’s a standard system as far as I can tell but the piston is right out so there’s no wriggle room to speak of and I’ve heard the pistons don’t just push back as normal as they’re on some kind of self adjusting ratchet. Mill stick with it as I’ve done with my manifold which is another pain in the **$$ job! Thanks again
  9. Thanks Pete i have seen that but was concerned that it suggested the drive shafts neednto be removed to change pads, something I couldn’t quite believe, even on a Lotus! It would seem beyond ridiculous that this level of dismantling is required for something that should take twenty minutes. I found the article useful, particularly regarding the ratchet mechanism in the Caliper for auto adjustment and it was this that gave me the confidence to approach the task. However, I’m not up to dismantling a whole quarter of the drive train so may have to entrust it to a specialist - shame as I’ve just removed and replaced an entire manifold system which was a mammoth job in its own right and thought that whilst I was under there is just nip some new pads in - I should know better!! Thanks again Simon
  10. Hello again Im trying to replace rear pads on Inboard discs and although I’ve successfully removed two 13mm head bolts from the Caliper and spilt it sonit feels loose, there isn’t enough clearance on the rear chassis tube to withdraw the Caliper back and off. It all wiggles round but the pads won’t cone out - nowhere near. LEW suggest drive shafts need to be removed but surely not?? i have learned that the pistons won’t just push back and this must be a job many people have done but there’s little available detail to be found and the workshops manual assumes I know rather more than I do. Any help gratefully received Thanks
  11. Steve

    Do you still have access to luggage compartment carpet sets for G car turbos?

    I have a tired boot bag and feel that a carpeted loadspace Woukd feel and look better 

    Thanks

    Simon

    1. Steve V8

      Steve V8

      Hi Simon, 

      I have templates for the TE boot space, however these were taken from an aftermarket (non original) set. That said we have supplied 3 sets from these templates without issue. I'm yet to see an original battery cover (10), so we supply enough carpet for you to recover your own if you're lucky enough to still have it, or I can supply a peice of 4mm ply for you to make a suitable replacement.

      The set consists of all the pieces shown on the parts diagram below, is availabe in anthracite (as per original) or black, the boot floor backed with sound deadening felt and bindings are normally black leatherette but we're happy to bind in any coloiur you choose. 

      The total cost is £120 + the postage.

      1508785395699.jpg.cbbc2700a87151403b8b8937275f2ee4.jpg.404743f62922a7c516f853b6e624b462.jpg

      Best regards Steve

    2. madmax

      madmax

      Thank you Steve

      That all sounds good although the purists May disagree with me dispensing with the use of my tatty boot bag. 

      I don’t have a battery cover so would appreciate your idea to solve that and would probably choose the original anthracite with black binding. 

      I’ll check this weekend to see what’s been used on top of the fuel tanks and come back to you  

      I have some trim adhesive and will look forwards to tidying up that area.

      Thanks again

      Simon

      07801813777 

       

    3. madmax

      madmax

      Thank you Steve

      That all sounds good although the purists May disagree with me dispensing with the use of my tatty boot bag. 

      I don’t have a battery cover so would appreciate your idea to solve that and would probably choose the original anthracite with black binding. 

      I’ll check this weekend to see what’s been used on top of the fuel tanks and come back to you  

      I have some trim adhesive and will look forwards to tidying up that area.

      Thanks again

      Simon

      07801813777 

      PS - I’m trying to attach photos that will hopefully show what’s in the engine bay at present

      257EF82F-F7E2-422A-81C1-3217CD60BEAD.png

  12. Hi Steve I have a 1981 Turbo with a rather tired boot bag which I really don’t like. Is it possible that you offer a boot Carpet replacement kit as close to original style as possible? I currently have no luggage area carpet except for the small parts over the fuel tanks Tbanks simon
  13. Thanks again SJ have the type I need and so if I can get to the old one at least I can try it although I don’t know what the connections are. The pictures on this post have been really useful so thanks again
  14. Thanks guys - that all makes sense It looks like SJ have supplied the wrong part for my application - my stevens car has the yellow relay and a light that delays then goes off whereas my turbo fades to off so it’s probably the transistor type I need and then hope I can find it on the pillar
  15. Tried again tonight and can’t locate it in any of those places so I think as someone said, they made it up as they went along!! in fact the pictures you show are nothing like the replacement SJ Sportscars have sent me. It’s yellow alright but tall and rectangular like a regular relay rather than like the item shown in these posts. Maybe I’m looking for the wrong thing

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