madmax

Thanks ive modified the ones i bought and managed to get one side together quite like the look of one of those sets though

1982 Turbo and replacing rear wheel bearing. Whilst it’s off I thought I’d have a tidy up. Bought new springs and original shocks from SJ but I’m damned if I can compress them safely enough to get the new items on. Have bought two different types of screw clamp type compressors but the pugs are too big and so the shock absorber won’t fit up the middle. Anyone know of a tidy compressor suitable for these narrow springs? These things are just too bulky. I’ve trawled eBay but everything looks pretty much standard. Thanks as usual simon

Thanks I do have wires reconnected to the roof lights and before I did the headlining my boot light did work when the tailgate was lifted. I must have the wiring wrong though as I have nothing on any switch position. I’ll take a look at the diagram and see if I can work out which colour wires should go where.

Does anyone know how the three interior lights should be wired on my 78 Elite. Worked fine until I disconnected to fix the headlining and now none of them work either switched or on the door buttons. Thought id reconnected them ok but obviously not. All bulbs are good but I really don’t know which wires go to what connections. If I put a live feed in I can get them all to come on which confuses me further Thanks

hello again chaps i recently upgraded my membership status and was hoping to benefit from free postage for a tailored indoor cover for my ‘82 Esprit Turbo. When I try to order, the system always adds 16 quid or so postage and I can’t seem to find a way around this. Any advice please? Thanks Simon

Thanks for this- I’ll try the pm thing but not great at flying these internet devices!

Does anyone currently know whether the GOODYEAR letters are available on a group buy again? I’d like five sets if anyone knows how to obtain them. Thanks

I’ve searched for undertray removal and all I get is the rear one. Can anyone guide me on removing the front one behind the front spoiler? Ive removed 10 out of 12 self tapping type screws and washers but I can’t get the two rearmost corner ones out. I’m not sure what they screw into as now two of them just fall out as I try to put them back in until I can do the job properly. I’m trying to get the the bolts in the air ducts in the spoiler under the front bumper. I removed one and whatever was holding it in place is now wandering round the front undertray and I can’t get it off. Thanks if anyone has any information on this. Simon

Silly question perhaps but if it’s an earth wire, could it not be run to earth somewhere else more convenient, like a bolt on the engine or alternator ? Or does the pipe have to be earthed separately? Car electrics are really not my thing. Simon

Thanks again guys Checked it out and of course there’s a bodged fitting of the wire to the top fitting of the two showing in the picture - not sure what it is as the sender seems to be the lower wire. SJ sell a new pipe for £100 plus plus but it doesn’t come with anything in those holes and so the parts that fit into the holes will hopefully be cheap. Senders are normally only a few quid but I can’t see how the top thing unscrews. Money little thing after another ...... That was supposed to say one little thing after another ......... !

Thank you Ill check that area - I’ve seen wires to it but assumed it was the otter switch.

since working recently on a few issues I have everything back together but don’t get a temperature reading on the dash gauge and wonder if I’ve knocked a lead off somewhere. Where is the water temperature sender located on a 1982 Turbo as I’ve not been able to find it. The gauge used to work so there must be one Thanks

Thanks Its the 82 Turbo with inboard discs. The piston turns reasonably well although I’ve not tried to push it back yet once turned. Its quite badly pitted on its surface but I don’t know how much of a job they are to replace. SJ appear to have the pistons for about forty quid each but goodness knows what might be involved replacing them. Hooefully it will push back if I can align it all properly and let some fluid out of the bleed screw. These dark nights are made for stuff like this. Simon

Ok chaps somehow managed to free the Caliper and remove the pads which is real progress but the piston on the nearside Caliper is out about 2cm. It is relatively shiny in its length but at the pad abutment end it’s just rust coloured with a large slot in it. This I presume is the slot used to turn the piston in an attempt to free a self adjusting ratchet. With molegrips providing a gentle hold of this rusty end of the piston, the piston actually turns surprisingly freely with just a bit of resistance. I haven’t been able to push the piston back yet. Plan is to slacken off bleed screw and perhaps use a clamp to push it back if I’m able to align it correctly. Any further advice would be great. The manual speaks about a damper spring but I don’t know where that should be. On disassembly there doesn’t appear to be any spring Thanks again

Thank you - that looks like it could be really useful. Simon