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About madmax

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  • Name
    simon gaunt
  • Car
    Europa TC Special, Elite, ‘82 Esprit Turbo, ‘88 Esprit
  • Modifications
    As original as circumstances will permit apart from stainless upgrades
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  1. madmax

    TLF Esprit Indoor/Outdoor Car Covers

    hello again chaps i recently upgraded my membership status and was hoping to benefit from free postage for a tailored indoor cover for my ‘82 Esprit Turbo. When I try to order, the system always adds 16 quid or so postage and I can’t seem to find a way around this. Any advice please? Thanks Simon
  2. madmax

    Project Compomotive

    Thanks for this- I’ll try the pm thing but not great at flying these internet devices!
  3. madmax

    Project Compomotive

    Does anyone currently know whether the GOODYEAR letters are available on a group buy again? I’d like five sets if anyone knows how to obtain them. Thanks
  4. I’ve searched for undertray removal and all I get is the rear one. Can anyone guide me on removing the front one behind the front spoiler? Ive removed 10 out of 12 self tapping type screws and washers but I can’t get the two rearmost corner ones out. I’m not sure what they screw into as now two of them just fall out as I try to put them back in until I can do the job properly. I’m trying to get the the bolts in the air ducts in the spoiler under the front bumper. I removed one and whatever was holding it in place is now wandering round the front undertray and I can’t get it off. Thanks if anyone has any information on this. Simon
  5. Silly question perhaps but if it’s an earth wire, could it not be run to earth somewhere else more convenient, like a bolt on the engine or alternator ? Or does the pipe have to be earthed separately? Car electrics are really not my thing. Simon
  6. Thanks again guys Checked it out and of course there’s a bodged fitting of the wire to the top fitting of the two showing in the picture - not sure what it is as the sender seems to be the lower wire. SJ sell a new pipe for £100 plus plus but it doesn’t come with anything in those holes and so the parts that fit into the holes will hopefully be cheap. Senders are normally only a few quid but I can’t see how the top thing unscrews. Money little thing after another ...... That was supposed to say one little thing after another ......... !
  7. Thank you Ill check that area - I’ve seen wires to it but assumed it was the otter switch.
  8. since working recently on a few issues I have everything back together but don’t get a temperature reading on the dash gauge and wonder if I’ve knocked a lead off somewhere. Where is the water temperature sender located on a 1982 Turbo as I’ve not been able to find it. The gauge used to work so there must be one Thanks
  9. Thanks Its the 82 Turbo with inboard discs. The piston turns reasonably well although I’ve not tried to push it back yet once turned. Its quite badly pitted on its surface but I don’t know how much of a job they are to replace. SJ appear to have the pistons for about forty quid each but goodness knows what might be involved replacing them. Hooefully it will push back if I can align it all properly and let some fluid out of the bleed screw. These dark nights are made for stuff like this. Simon
  10. Ok chaps somehow managed to free the Caliper and remove the pads which is real progress but the piston on the nearside Caliper is out about 2cm. It is relatively shiny in its length but at the pad abutment end it’s just rust coloured with a large slot in it. This I presume is the slot used to turn the piston in an attempt to free a self adjusting ratchet. With molegrips providing a gentle hold of this rusty end of the piston, the piston actually turns surprisingly freely with just a bit of resistance. I haven’t been able to push the piston back yet. Plan is to slacken off bleed screw and perhaps use a clamp to push it back if I’m able to align it correctly. Any further advice would be great. The manual speaks about a damper spring but I don’t know where that should be. On disassembly there doesn’t appear to be any spring Thanks again
  11. Thank you - that looks like it could be really useful. Simon
  12. Thank you - that looks like it could be really useful. Simon
  13. I may try next time I’m underneath. It’s a standard system as far as I can tell but the piston is right out so there’s no wriggle room to speak of and I’ve heard the pistons don’t just push back as normal as they’re on some kind of self adjusting ratchet. Mill stick with it as I’ve done with my manifold which is another pain in the **$$ job! Thanks again
  14. Thanks Pete i have seen that but was concerned that it suggested the drive shafts neednto be removed to change pads, something I couldn’t quite believe, even on a Lotus! It would seem beyond ridiculous that this level of dismantling is required for something that should take twenty minutes. I found the article useful, particularly regarding the ratchet mechanism in the Caliper for auto adjustment and it was this that gave me the confidence to approach the task. However, I’m not up to dismantling a whole quarter of the drive train so may have to entrust it to a specialist - shame as I’ve just removed and replaced an entire manifold system which was a mammoth job in its own right and thought that whilst I was under there is just nip some new pads in - I should know better!! Thanks again Simon
  15. Hello again Im trying to replace rear pads on Inboard discs and although I’ve successfully removed two 13mm head bolts from the Caliper and spilt it sonit feels loose, there isn’t enough clearance on the rear chassis tube to withdraw the Caliper back and off. It all wiggles round but the pads won’t cone out - nowhere near. LEW suggest drive shafts need to be removed but surely not?? i have learned that the pistons won’t just push back and this must be a job many people have done but there’s little available detail to be found and the workshops manual assumes I know rather more than I do. Any help gratefully received Thanks