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  • Name
    simon gaunt
  • Car
    2009 Lotus Evora, 1995 Esprit Turbo S4, 1973 Europa TC Special, 1978 Elite. That's it now - enough!!
  • Modifications
    As original as circumstances will permit apart from stainless upgrades
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  1. LotusBits might have them If I remember rightly I got my last headlight switch from SJ Sportscars Ebay too of course can be a good source for parts if you can be bothered to trawl
  2. When obtaining service parts for these cars I'd be inclined to use specialist suppliers or known cross-referenced parts. Motor Factors and the like are great for some stuff but when it comes to finding awkward parts for specialist stuff like the Esprit, I find Pete at PNM and Steve at SJ Sportscars and the like invaluable. I need to review the air con on my Esprit sometime although with the weather so far, we're struggling to get into double figures here - and it's May now!
  3. It's very easy to get no end of eastern copy parts these days so try to take care to get proper parts, particularly a non riveted rotor arm as mentioned previously. I've found excellent knowledge and had great service from 'The Distributor Doctor' and he prides himself on providing good quality bits and pieces - and of course there's the usual suspects such as SJ, PNM and now Classic Team Lotus among others. Everything I've had from him has always worked a treat and sorted out ignition issues on a few of my older Lotus. Hopefully the fail just short of home will be an easy fix and you can get to enjoying it and falling in love! Good luck again!
  4. For what it's worth Dave, that sounds particularly costly for a headlining retrim. I did my Elite with some excellent trim fabric and some high strength impact adhesive for about eighty quid. It's not the easiest job but a good sunny bank holiday weekend should see it sorted. Someone on here recently has also done something I was thinking about and that is to trim two separate panel inserts for the front and rear roof areas with the fabric of choice, then these are then simply offered up to the roof and either gently stuck or held in place with the cant rail trims and roll over hoop trim. You'll need to source a suitable backing board but there are numerous options these days. Removing the old fabric is messy as the old foam scrim will have turned to powder now and a good vacuum is required and it's advisable to lay down those fine plastic decorating covers over the seats, but I didn't remove mine. I used a very Italianate looking and luxurious suede type trim fabric from MARTRIM in the Midlands - not genuine I grant you but a really great fabric and almost spot on colour wise ๐Ÿ‘๐Ÿ‘ Good luck1
  5. Hello Maggo54321 and welcome to probably the best resource for ANYTHING Lotus. Welcome too to the brand - whether intentionally or by accident you've landed with something where the enthusiasm for the brand, the cars and all its history are second to none - and then of course there's the drive - it's all about the drive. Do your car your way, for you, and you'll love it but don't be scared to ask for help and advice on here - everyone has a view and it's great that they're often shared - allows for a great balance of opinion and experience. I like many others might want to make the car look and feel as original as possible but that's just the way I like things. Welcome again and good luck ๐Ÿ˜‰ Whereabouts in Yorkshire are you - it's a big place and has some great Lotus roads - I know parts of it very well ๐Ÿ‘
  6. I bought a set from Tredwear in The States and then more locally from Tyre Wall Stickers in the UK. Both sets were supplied with a super glue adhesive and worked well. I can imagine the work that goes into these so in reality it's perhaps as cost-effective getting them from someone who has already die cut these. They do look great on the right car - early Turbo ๐Ÿ‘
  7. It depends what you can negotiate - the smaller the margin between what they bought it for and what they sold it for is what they pay (and claim) VAT on. The smaller the margin, the smaller their VAT liability. I can't remember how it works if they in fact show a loss (at least on paper). Good luck with your negotiations ๐Ÿ‘
  8. As far as I'm aware, there is NO VAT element on used cars in the UK, whether for sale privately or from a dealer. A dealer would pay VAT on the difference between his buying in price and his selling price which is why they sometimes 'back VAT' cars that are being part exchanged as it makes them a VAT saving (complicated). There is of course an exception as some used cars are classed as 'VAT qualifying' cars and as such can be leased with VAT being claimed back on rentals if they're for business use. BUT, in general terms, on a USED vehicle in the UK, there is no separate VAT liability for the purchaser. I hope that hasn't complicated matters for you ๐Ÿ˜€
  9. Grafted an E-Type Jaguar cap onto the existing plastic Jag one. Maybe not original but it looks well and feels lovely - easy to revert to standard if I ever feel the need. The purists may not like it but for me, itโ€™s just a different Jag cap ๐Ÿคญ
  10. The window does appear to be trying to drop as the door catch is opened so I feel that a replacement regulator isn't the answer. It does drop slightly but not enough to clear the rubber seal. As I said, if i then push the window down from the top it drops another few mm to a definite stop. The when the door is closed, it does rise into the seal. It may be that it's just too tight to drop and yet doesn't seem 'pinched' anywhere. I'll try to get some silicone lube or similar down the length of the window channels to see if that might be a straightforward fix. Thanks for bothering to come back to me ๐Ÿ‘
  11. I know there are a number of posts regarding window resets but I have a query I can't find an answer for. 2009 N/A Evora, passenger side door and window: When I open the door the window doesn't drop that 5mm or so to allow it to pass the rubber seal. Normal you might say, do a window reset...................................which I've tried of course. With the door now open however, if I press down on the window glass on the top edge, it drops about 5mm to a definite stop - if I then close the door, it jumps up against the seal just like it should. So, is there something that's not activating the drop and yet the upwards travel is ok? Or could it be just stiff or misaligned and not strong enough to drop? Does anyone know if the switch for down in the mechanism is different to the switch for up? Any guidance gratefully received as usual - Thanks
  12. I got an Evora DVD that links in nicely with the Sublime Supercar book From memory it was something like โ€™The Making of a Modern Iconโ€™ and it compliments the book nicely. Many of the design drawings are featured with interviews with Carr, Becker, Mike Kimberley et al. Thereโ€™s great footage of artic testing at Arjeplog in Sweden, track work at Hethel and the Nurburgring, lots of factory pieces and of course comments from in period motoring journalists at their โ€˜doโ€™ in Scotland. Well worth hunting down and watching if youโ€™ve not seen it
  13. Thanks for coming back to me Just seen that Elise parts have a set which is stainless then powder coated with stainless fittings included for ยฃ39.95 plus plus so I may go that route as they look really good
  14. Are they for sale in the UK and if so, how much please?
  15. Hi @soldave - I need to replace and update the rear shocks on my '78 Elite this year and I recently saw Gaz offered on a site somewhere. Do you know if they were a straightforward fit without requiring any modification at all? Much like tyres, tyre pressures and oil recommendations whenever you ask the question of what is best you get many different answers based on people's preference or indeed what individual suppliers are selling. The Gaz shocks appealed for some reason but I don't want to start hacking things about or altering ride heights by getting it wrong. Thanks
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