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madmax

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Everything posted by madmax

  1. Thanks ive modified the ones i bought and managed to get one side together quite like the look of one of those sets though
  2. 1982 Turbo and replacing rear wheel bearing. Whilst it’s off I thought I’d have a tidy up. Bought new springs and original shocks from SJ but I’m damned if I can compress them safely enough to get the new items on. Have bought two different types of screw clamp type compressors but the pugs are too big and so the shock absorber won’t fit up the middle. Anyone know of a tidy compressor suitable for these narrow springs? These things are just too bulky. I’ve trawled eBay but everything looks pretty much standard. Thanks as usual simon
  3. Thanks I do have wires reconnected to the roof lights and before I did the headlining my boot light did work when the tailgate was lifted. I must have the wiring wrong though as I have nothing on any switch position. I’ll take a look at the diagram and see if I can work out which colour wires should go where.
  4. Does anyone know how the three interior lights should be wired on my 78 Elite. Worked fine until I disconnected to fix the headlining and now none of them work either switched or on the door buttons. Thought id reconnected them ok but obviously not. All bulbs are good but I really don’t know which wires go to what connections. If I put a live feed in I can get them all to come on which confuses me further Thanks
  5. hello again chaps i recently upgraded my membership status and was hoping to benefit from free postage for a tailored indoor cover for my ‘82 Esprit Turbo. When I try to order, the system always adds 16 quid or so postage and I can’t seem to find a way around this. Any advice please? Thanks Simon
  6. Thanks for this- I’ll try the pm thing but not great at flying these internet devices!
  7. Does anyone currently know whether the GOODYEAR letters are available on a group buy again? I’d like five sets if anyone knows how to obtain them. Thanks
  8. I’ve searched for undertray removal and all I get is the rear one. Can anyone guide me on removing the front one behind the front spoiler? Ive removed 10 out of 12 self tapping type screws and washers but I can’t get the two rearmost corner ones out. I’m not sure what they screw into as now two of them just fall out as I try to put them back in until I can do the job properly. I’m trying to get the the bolts in the air ducts in the spoiler under the front bumper. I removed one and whatever was holding it in place is now wandering round the front undertray and I can’t get it off. Thanks if anyone has any information on this. Simon
  9. Silly question perhaps but if it’s an earth wire, could it not be run to earth somewhere else more convenient, like a bolt on the engine or alternator ? Or does the pipe have to be earthed separately? Car electrics are really not my thing. Simon
  10. Thanks again guys Checked it out and of course there’s a bodged fitting of the wire to the top fitting of the two showing in the picture - not sure what it is as the sender seems to be the lower wire. SJ sell a new pipe for £100 plus plus but it doesn’t come with anything in those holes and so the parts that fit into the holes will hopefully be cheap. Senders are normally only a few quid but I can’t see how the top thing unscrews. Money little thing after another ...... That was supposed to say one little thing after another ......... !
  11. Thank you Ill check that area - I’ve seen wires to it but assumed it was the otter switch.
  12. since working recently on a few issues I have everything back together but don’t get a temperature reading on the dash gauge and wonder if I’ve knocked a lead off somewhere. Where is the water temperature sender located on a 1982 Turbo as I’ve not been able to find it. The gauge used to work so there must be one Thanks
  13. Thanks Its the 82 Turbo with inboard discs. The piston turns reasonably well although I’ve not tried to push it back yet once turned. Its quite badly pitted on its surface but I don’t know how much of a job they are to replace. SJ appear to have the pistons for about forty quid each but goodness knows what might be involved replacing them. Hooefully it will push back if I can align it all properly and let some fluid out of the bleed screw. These dark nights are made for stuff like this. Simon
  14. Ok chaps somehow managed to free the Caliper and remove the pads which is real progress but the piston on the nearside Caliper is out about 2cm. It is relatively shiny in its length but at the pad abutment end it’s just rust coloured with a large slot in it. This I presume is the slot used to turn the piston in an attempt to free a self adjusting ratchet. With molegrips providing a gentle hold of this rusty end of the piston, the piston actually turns surprisingly freely with just a bit of resistance. I haven’t been able to push the piston back yet. Plan is to slacken off bleed screw and perhaps use a clamp to push it back if I’m able to align it correctly. Any further advice would be great. The manual speaks about a damper spring but I don’t know where that should be. On disassembly there doesn’t appear to be any spring Thanks again
  15. Thank you - that looks like it could be really useful. Simon
  16. Thank you - that looks like it could be really useful. Simon
  17. I may try next time I’m underneath. It’s a standard system as far as I can tell but the piston is right out so there’s no wriggle room to speak of and I’ve heard the pistons don’t just push back as normal as they’re on some kind of self adjusting ratchet. Mill stick with it as I’ve done with my manifold which is another pain in the **$$ job! Thanks again
  18. Thanks Pete i have seen that but was concerned that it suggested the drive shafts neednto be removed to change pads, something I couldn’t quite believe, even on a Lotus! It would seem beyond ridiculous that this level of dismantling is required for something that should take twenty minutes. I found the article useful, particularly regarding the ratchet mechanism in the Caliper for auto adjustment and it was this that gave me the confidence to approach the task. However, I’m not up to dismantling a whole quarter of the drive train so may have to entrust it to a specialist - shame as I’ve just removed and replaced an entire manifold system which was a mammoth job in its own right and thought that whilst I was under there is just nip some new pads in - I should know better!! Thanks again Simon
  19. Hello again Im trying to replace rear pads on Inboard discs and although I’ve successfully removed two 13mm head bolts from the Caliper and spilt it sonit feels loose, there isn’t enough clearance on the rear chassis tube to withdraw the Caliper back and off. It all wiggles round but the pads won’t cone out - nowhere near. LEW suggest drive shafts need to be removed but surely not?? i have learned that the pistons won’t just push back and this must be a job many people have done but there’s little available detail to be found and the workshops manual assumes I know rather more than I do. Any help gratefully received Thanks
  20. Steve

    Do you still have access to luggage compartment carpet sets for G car turbos?

    I have a tired boot bag and feel that a carpeted loadspace Woukd feel and look better 

    Thanks

    Simon

    1. Steve V8

      Steve V8

      Hi Simon, 

      I have templates for the TE boot space, however these were taken from an aftermarket (non original) set. That said we have supplied 3 sets from these templates without issue. I'm yet to see an original battery cover (10), so we supply enough carpet for you to recover your own if you're lucky enough to still have it, or I can supply a peice of 4mm ply for you to make a suitable replacement.

      The set consists of all the pieces shown on the parts diagram below, is availabe in anthracite (as per original) or black, the boot floor backed with sound deadening felt and bindings are normally black leatherette but we're happy to bind in any coloiur you choose. 

      The total cost is £120 + the postage.

      1508785395699.jpg.cbbc2700a87151403b8b8937275f2ee4.jpg.404743f62922a7c516f853b6e624b462.jpg

      Best regards Steve

    2. madmax

      madmax

      Thank you Steve

      That all sounds good although the purists May disagree with me dispensing with the use of my tatty boot bag. 

      I don’t have a battery cover so would appreciate your idea to solve that and would probably choose the original anthracite with black binding. 

      I’ll check this weekend to see what’s been used on top of the fuel tanks and come back to you  

      I have some trim adhesive and will look forwards to tidying up that area.

      Thanks again

      Simon

      07801813777 

       

    3. madmax

      madmax

      Thank you Steve

      That all sounds good although the purists May disagree with me dispensing with the use of my tatty boot bag. 

      I don’t have a battery cover so would appreciate your idea to solve that and would probably choose the original anthracite with black binding. 

      I’ll check this weekend to see what’s been used on top of the fuel tanks and come back to you  

      I have some trim adhesive and will look forwards to tidying up that area.

      Thanks again

      Simon

      07801813777 

      PS - I’m trying to attach photos that will hopefully show what’s in the engine bay at present

      257EF82F-F7E2-422A-81C1-3217CD60BEAD.png

  21. Hi Steve I have a 1981 Turbo with a rather tired boot bag which I really don’t like. Is it possible that you offer a boot Carpet replacement kit as close to original style as possible? I currently have no luggage area carpet except for the small parts over the fuel tanks Tbanks simon
  22. Thanks again SJ have the type I need and so if I can get to the old one at least I can try it although I don’t know what the connections are. The pictures on this post have been really useful so thanks again
  23. Thanks guys - that all makes sense It looks like SJ have supplied the wrong part for my application - my stevens car has the yellow relay and a light that delays then goes off whereas my turbo fades to off so it’s probably the transistor type I need and then hope I can find it on the pillar
  24. Tried again tonight and can’t locate it in any of those places so I think as someone said, they made it up as they went along!! in fact the pictures you show are nothing like the replacement SJ Sportscars have sent me. It’s yellow alright but tall and rectangular like a regular relay rather than like the item shown in these posts. Maybe I’m looking for the wrong thing
  25. Thanks guys I’m familiar with it on my Elite but access on the Esprit is not something it’s kbown for The bottom hose is a rubber one but close to being worn through so SJ will no doubt have to come to the rescue Not sure how I make sure I describe the correct one but it does appear to come from the water pump When we talk about the twist in the belt, will it not twist far more readily on that long run than elsewhere and will tha tensioner take up slack in that long run as it sits round the bottom pulley, away from that long run It’s good to run these things past people - I don’t feel like I’m making critical decisions on my own Thanks
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