Drawfiler

Have you considered shipping a complete used 2.2 engine from the UK? I appreciate it is a risk but worth trying.

Beware, nominally similar carbs may not suit as jets and machining of the main casting are engine specific. You need some from the right model of Lotus why not get a rebuild kit and do it yourself it is not difficult, you can’t get the jets in the wrong holes. You can do one at a time so you have one to copy. if you do get the float needles with polymer tips to give better sealing.

Now got the head off but can’t see the problem, gasket looks sound, head and block both smooth and clean, liners look ok to me so I am going to take bits to lotusbits for advice from Mike Taylor.

If you have those electric motors that look like wiper motors, the limit switches in the motor gearbox can play up so have a look at those.

Now I’m getting air/gas in the cooling with bubbles in the header tank so suspect gasket or liners, now taking head off for a look, will report back.

Perhaps the corrosion on the piston crown is because that particular valve was open all those years and condensation got in. When you have the head off, you must take care not to disturb the liners so male up a set of clamping bars to fit on the studs. Measure the ‘nip’ with a straight edge across each liner with a feeler gauge, you can check head chamber volume by getting a piece of Perspex large enough to cover the chamber area, drill a small hole in it and ‘stick’ it in place over the chamber with grease, then use a hypodermic syringe to fill the chamber space with water keeping a note of the volume of water as you go. when you get the crank out look carefully at the upper front main shell as over tension on the drive belt can lift the crank up and wear the shell away. keep us posted Peter

I converted my engine to 2.2 using new bits and a used enginel and have lots of good 2l bits left over, crank, pistons, etc if they are any help

I would consider replacing the belt pulleys with those from Lotusbits which a have a better shaped tooth form. The tensioner and belt should also be replaced.. I suppose it boils down to this ‘do I pull the head and have to pay for a gasket and head skim at say £100 or risk it and have to pull the engine apart later?’ if you leave the head on and subsequently have to remove it, there is the cost of inlet and exhaust gaskets which will have to be replaced again. my gut feeling is to lift the head while it is relatively easy then you can also look at valve guides and seats, update to double valve springs and clean the waterways, make sure the liners are ok etc. I would also give the oil pump a wiz with a battery drill and check its performance. All more work and expense but more peace of mind! BTW did the engine turn over OK before you started and did you do a compression test?

My 2.2 engine will overheat if left on tick over for some time, the two fans, thermostat pressure cap and thermal switch all work ok. Rad has been flushed clear. My question is=is it worth taking out the thermostat to improve water flow?

If you take the belt off don’t try and move the crank as you will get valves into the pistons. You must also take the carriers off to allow the valves to close. I would endoscope the cylinders before doing anything, however if things are so tight I would think that you need to strip the engine

You started the thread because you are experiencing running problems, perhaps it would be useful if you gave us a bit more detail of the actual problem. I am inclined to agree that your compression readings while not perfect, are unlikely to be the problem. assuming that the ignition timing and spark is/ok, I would be looking at the carbs, is there flooding, are the sealing rings ok ,is the inlet manifold gasket ok, is there a leak on the vacuum system for the lights. Just my 2p worth

I did mine with upholstery webbing. This is elastic rubber strip about 50 mm wide, you get clips that dig into it and then attach to the frame, you do two rows at right angles, it is easy to use and available on the net.

Will brake pipe be large enough?

So is it possible to thread a semi rigid pipe through with the body and prop shaft in place, I thought of trying copper heating pipe.

Tim, did you fit it with the body and prop shaft in place?