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Drawfiler

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Everything posted by Drawfiler

  1. Hi I want to replace the fog lights on my Eclat, how do you get to the back of them to het them off? thanks
  2. I am running at just to the right of centre on the gauge in the recent hot weather. The fans come on and off when standing idle and at a fast tick over,I think this is OK. The problem is with the contact between the fuse and the holder but I have cleaned and polished the surface but still the holder (the actual brass spring clip) is hot to the touch when the fans have been running a while. I think that I will explore a separate fuse arrangement for the fan supply, I am pretty happy that the fan motors are not drawing to much current as the fuse doesn't blow.
  3. Like many others, I have had overheating problems in the Eclat, I have two fans, ok thermostat and well flushed system, I rang Mike Taylor and he was full of gloom talking about cracked liners and blown gaskets, I had no gas bubbling out of the rad filler cap and no mayonnaise in the sump or gas coming from the oil filler. I found that I had a vapour lock in the top hose leading to the thermostat housing so loosening the jubilee clip and pulling the hose off and filling both the casting and hose. This solved the problem but after a long run I suddenly had overheating again. Much hea
  4. I spoke to Mike Taylor about this and he uses Valvoline red additive, so it is red for me.
  5. I am confused about which coolant to use in 900 series engines, I know I could go for waterless but for now I want to use water and additive, my question is do I use red or blue, which one do I buy?
  6. If you buy new liners from Lotusbits, Mike Taylor will sell you some magic grunge that he uses on his rebuilds.
  7. I think I would replace the liners and piston rings while I was in there.
  8. A posts are a problem, there is a piece of quite soft plastic foam in front of the roll bar tube to fill the space between it and the inside of the windscreen, the liner also reaches down to the dash. i cut the liner and painted the adhesive onto the A posts and the liner, let it go off and then paint new adhesive into the gap between the a post and the glass, you will get it on the glass but dont worry. Push the liner into the space using a plastic pusher while the adhesive is still wet when you are happy wrap the liner round the post. You will be covering the rear edge with the door se
  9. Coat one side of the sheet and a band 1" wide on the revers side. Cover all of the liner, and a corresponding 1" band on the sheet. Carefully stand the sheet vertically on one edge about 1" in from the edge of the liner and lift the 1" strip of liner and stick it to the sheet. Lie the sheet down and pull the liner tight and bring it down onto the sheet, use a paint roller to make sure of the bond. mark the centre of the back edge of the sheet and put a corresponding mark on the rear window both with masking tape. coat the upper side of the sheet and the roof. Climb into th
  10. I have finally finished reliving the Eclat, I can assure you all that the learning curve is pretty steep so I have decided to pass on my experience for the other poor souls who want to have a try. Firstly the equipment roll of brown paper stanley knife scissors straight edge masking tape disposable gloves work table set plastic levers paint scraper glass scraper correcting fluid (tippex) plastic bin liners liner heat resistant glue sheet 3mm pvc sheet coarse emery cloth acetone or equivalent for cleaning
  11. Although I agree with sourcing a replacement diff from Lotusbits, if you do so look at a refurb on the brakes, new oilseals and bearings on the dif. If shipping a dif is too expensive, you might be able to get yours rebuilt in Australia. so pleases you are bringing the car back into use as they are a real head turner.
  12. Some people have left out the deflector that fits between the fans and the engine, it guides the air over the top of the engine and out of the slats in the bonnet. If this is missing you will get overheating. Also check that the otter switch is not playing up.
  13. If it runs ok at lowbrevs, have you tried the car under load, it might just be possible it is runnig on two cylinders only, this will give you farts and bangs and lousy running under power.but will run ok at tickover speeds. I know this from experience! Check you have not swapped two leads over, you will get the right vac readings, perfect timing on no 1 and high HC readings.
  14. That's interesting, my kit had plain brass needles.
  15. Well done so far, I then cleaned the body up with carb cleaner and then put body into an ultrasonic tank followed by the jets and screws. I bough the the kit from Eurocarb but made the mistake by not getting the float needles with polymer rings on them as an extra, these are so much better and stop the dreaded flooding, remarkably they are not in the standard kit.
  16. So glad it's back hom, I did mine by having the wheels off, the car supported at The fronton a trolley jack with axlestands positioned for safety, I put the engine on a chain block with a sling round the inlet manifold (thanks Mike) and was able to guide the shaft onto the gearbox, it came out that way so should go back. when the rocker boxes leak or at least the exhaust one, try putting the engine on the trolleyjack and having removed the engine mount, shift it to drivers side, then you can fit the cover without having to roll it round and so don't disturb the sealant.
  17. Tim Run the car and then feel the coil, if it is hot that's your problem, change it for a resin filled one, as the oild coil warms up it expands and faulty wiring inside can break up, it will then work intermittently..
  18. I like the idea of using dizzy gloves, thanks, II have had another thought, the brown appear can be use daily to cove the worktable and retained by masking tape, you can then the bits of lining material down to it with masking tape while you apply glue. The brown appear can be replaced for each glue session. i will also be standing the glue in boiling water to make it more runny. Peter
  19. I have bought a sheet of 3mm pvc, this is used to line things like industrial fridges and food prep areas. It is flexible and will stick ok with high temp glue. My plan is to get the old material off all the formers and the roof, buy a roll of brown wrapping paper and make a set of patterns, use these to cut the the material to size, I will then cut the pvc to fit the rear panel space .I will then cover my work bench (chest freezer) with another bit of the brown paper and put the material face down on it and coat with adhesive, coat the pvc and fit them together by standing the pvc on edg
  20. Thanks for the input, I will be using heat resisting adhesive as advised and not spray, I looked at propex but understand it is made from polypropylene and this is a very hard material to glue so I am worried about things staying stuck is there a suitable alternative board type? How are the screen sides attached as I dont want to break the formers? what did you do about fitting the lining to the metal strip that is the top of the rear window frame, the foam backed lining is stretchy so hard to line up. thanks
  21. A bit more detail, I made a hoop to go round the cross tube and threaded both ends, it might be easier to use a bit of m6 allthread, I then made up aplate with 3 holes in it, one in the centre to fit round the switch large enough to clear the terminals but the small enough to ensure it rested on the metal part of the switch,the other two holes were m6 clearance. i then turned the crosspipe through 90 degrees so the switch hole faced the engine and put it all together. I have tried to attach pictures,but they are difficult to compose becase the bonnet is in the way!
  22. I was checking the connections on my otter switch mounted in the cross pipe along the top of the road when it blew our showering water everywhere. I think the stainless clips that hold it in are a bit dodgy. i made a u bolt to go round the tube from 6 mm Rod and a plate with 2 holes (rather like an exhaust clamp) and a larger hole in the centre to clear the connections for the switch. I then turned the crosspipe 90 degrees so the contacts face the engine and fitted the clamp. I can now get to the contacts without taking the bonnet off and the switch is secure.
  23. I asked Mike Taylor at LB about this and I seem to remember he told me that the belts tend to run towards the engine side of the pulleys and they are ok provided they are not rubbing against anything. I noticed that mine moved slightly forward after an hour or two of running.. If you have everything else correct you should be safe, the only other thing to check is the actual tension, you might have the belt too tight or loose
  24. I too would like to be there in the Eclat but I am running the engine in so the trip to CC would take too long. I hope all goes well.
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