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  1. A bit more detail, I made a hoop to go round the cross tube and threaded both ends, it might be easier to use a bit of m6 allthread, I then made up aplate with 3 holes in it, one in the centre to fit round the switch large enough to clear the terminals but the small enough to ensure it rested on the metal part of the switch,the other two holes were m6 clearance. i then turned the crosspipe through 90 degrees so the switch hole faced the engine and put it all together. I have tried to attach pictures,but they are difficult to compose becase the bonnet is in the way!
  2. I was checking the connections on my otter switch mounted in the cross pipe along the top of the road when it blew our showering water everywhere. I think the stainless clips that hold it in are a bit dodgy. i made a u bolt to go round the tube from 6 mm Rod and a plate with 2 holes (rather like an exhaust clamp) and a larger hole in the centre to clear the connections for the switch. I then turned the crosspipe 90 degrees so the contacts face the engine and fitted the clamp. I can now get to the contacts without taking the bonnet off and the switch is secure.
  3. I asked Mike Taylor at LB about this and I seem to remember he told me that the belts tend to run towards the engine side of the pulleys and they are ok provided they are not rubbing against anything. I noticed that mine moved slightly forward after an hour or two of running.. If you have everything else correct you should be safe, the only other thing to check is the actual tension, you might have the belt too tight or loose
  4. I too would like to be there in the Eclat but I am running the engine in so the trip to CC would take too long. I hope all goes well.
  5. I any case change the brake fluid every 2-3 years, it is hygroscopic and the water it picks up will rust brake components. This applies particularly to low usage cars.
  6. I am about to do the headlining on my Eclat, I plan to use the foam backed lining from Wooleys and their heat resisting glue., I have read the postings here but I still have some questions to ask you. How much lining do I buy How do I get the old glue off Do I recover the vertical edges of the windscreen surround, i.e. From the cant rail to the top of the dash. Thanks
  7. What about Shelshey, Walsh, they did a great job last year for Jag XK event with untamed runs up the hill.
  8. When I took my Eclat engine out, I asked Mike Taylor the best way and he said that Lotusbits always take the engine and box out together. I did this without too much trouble, he allows 3 hours but has the experience and kit to do it There are more than one type of PS pumps and mounting brackets. I took my pump off when I took the lump,out but put it back with the pump fitted. The best lift point is with a sling round the inlet manifold, I managed on my own with limited headroom by a combination of a chain hoist and trolley jack underneath and rolling the car back and forward. why not replace the missing bellhousing bolts first? peter
  9. John, I think the problem is with the fuel, if the car stands for a while, the fuel will absorb water from the atmosphere. Ethanol will take on a high proportion of water to its own weight whereas petrol will only absorb 3-3.5 percent. After that, free water will sit in the bottom of a he tank. Drain and refill the tank and try again. How do I Know This? I have just had the same happen to me. Peter
  10. John, another little horror is that the keys on either the crank or cams have sheared and allowed the wheels to slip out of position however, this will upset all,cylinders not two. One other thing to look at is the vacuum outlet on the inlet manifold for the light pop up if fitted, done manifolds had blanking plugs that can be missing.
  11. It might just be possible that the inlet valves are not fully closing, you will get some compression but not enough, take off the inlet cam cover and get the feeler gauge out. I assume that valve timing is OK and that the plug leads are in the right order. I have been there too!
  12. I know that a lot of advice has been given on this topic but I would like to add some new thoughts to give a simple tune up procedure. 1 set timing to 20 degrees advanced, I do this with a strobe which will work at cranking speed. 2 check that the carbs are filling and not flooding, if not deal with the float chambers. 3 set the butterflys to open together, I have come up with this idea, use a length of feeler strip or even a piece of thin plastic strip. Push this under the butterfly on one of the rear venturies and adjust the engine speed screw on the lever of the rear carb until the strip can be felt dragging as you pull it out, by carefully adjusting the screw you can get a nice 'feel' as the strip is pulled out. Test both the rear carb butterflys, if there is a variance you need to sort the problem. Now use the carb balance screw on the front carb to achieve the same feel as on the rear. Go back to the rears to be sure all butterflys are the same. 4 take out each slow running adjuster and clean it, removing any burrs etc, put it back and gently screw it home and back it out 2 turns 5 open the throttle adjuster screw by 3 turns 6 start the car and warm up the engine 7 do the hiss test with a pipe in each Venturi or use a manometer or balancing meter and adjust the mixture screws for balance and good running 8 set the mixture using your best methods Colourtune or other, I use a Co meter in the exhaust pipe. good luck
  13. My thought was that the copper pipe would be smaller diameter so would pass through any holes and rigid enough not to sag between fixings.
  14. After all this time it RUNS, there is oil pressure so now I have to tune it, which brings me to my question, I normally balance carbs with a bit of hosepipe but I have noticed the Gunson balancing kit on fleabay, has anyone tried one of these or are you all using the German gauge? Peter
  15. Would it be possible to feed a length of copper pipe through from end, if the pipe is annealed so soft, it could be bent if needed as it is fed through the holes. I can make some special fittings to connect to fuel proof flexible pipe at each end. Any thoughts? Peter
  16. I am going through the fuel system on my 1978 Eclat and I am thinking about fuel pipes, the ones from the tank to the pump are clear plastic and are showing their age. i am thinking about the pipe to the front of the car, how big a job is it to replace this and what material do I use? as always, thanks in advance.
  17. I got it all together but it would not fire up, I tried everything and finally a compression test showed no compression on two cylinders. I took the cam covers off and checked the clearances and found that despite taking great care on assembly, the gaps on three valves had vanished! I plan to take both cams off and do another comp test to be sure that there is nothing nasty going on and go through the shimming all over again! it is interesting that the gaps on other valves are as I set them, I assume that I must have had a bit of dirt under the head on these three valves. Having turned the engine over lots while tryin to get it running, I must have dislodged whatever it was
  18. My Eclat is finished in a brown/orange velour cloth, known in my family as baby crack, this was on the seats, door card, rear seat sides, transmission tunnel, headlining and dash. The seats are now in tan leather but the rest is as made. The problem is that 40 years grime makes it look tatty, also the velour is delaminating. I plan to do the roof in a lighter colour, the problem us with the rest. I am not concerned with originality but want to be able to do the job myself, so what do I use. I will have some curved surfaces to cover like and I might have to get it sewed. Ii don't want the interior to look too 'heavy' , I can't afford acres of leather. What have others done? peter
  19. I have finally got the engine back in the car and getting ready to get it started, I have got a spark and the starter motor turns things over ok. I am a bit twitched about oil pressure as it was ok before I put the engine in when I ran the pump with an electric drill, it was pumping oil from the pressure gauge outlet but having left it for a week or so there is no oil flow at the outlet. I have to sort out the electrical problems and then have another go.
  20. This is a worry to all of us, I have a simple ignition kill switch under the dash, a battery isolation switch in the engine bay and an extinguisher mounted across the front of the drivers seat. The closest I have been to having a fire is from oil dripping on to the exhaust manifold from a leaky cam cover. The carbs do flood if the floats are set wrong and petrol pours into the air box and evaporates, The box contains it and although I have real worries about a possible fire, so far the box had kept things under control, I can't see any advantage in trying to contain the fuel by upturned trumpets, the engine will be overfuelled.
  21. My 78 eclat is wired to the 'RHD non federal wiring diagram' this shows a 8amp fuse in the wire to the fuel pump, does this exist? If so where is it as my pump won't go. It is not stuck contacts, there are no volts on the connector on the pump. My second question is, have any of you replaced the pump with a solid state one, if so which and did you need a reducing valve to not flood the carbs. Peter
  22. I think it is unlikely to be metal, I suspect hard carbon deposits from burnt oil. If it was metal, you would have heard or felt it ! I have seen this before in similar situations, usually where lubrication is inadequate.
  23. When my carbs flood the fuel comes out of the trumpet and not the body, however with the alternatives now fitted, I would have a look at ignition timing, that is assuming that the plug leads are all in the right order! i would also check for induction leaks perhaps from the vac pipe for the headlights.
  24. A bit of an update, I have stripped both my engine and the used 2.2 from Lotusbits, had the 2l head skimmed, fitted new exhaust valves, exchanged the cams and valve springs, had 2.2 crank ground, fitted new rings to 2.2 pistons and started to get it all together. For those about to do this, there is a lot of help available from Lotusbits and this forum, I have a couple of additional tips that may be of help. I was. 'starting again' with valve shimming, and with two heads worth of shims, I got some egg boxes, numbered all the depressions in them and carefully measured my shims with a micrometer, I put them in order of increasing size and made a list of their thicknesses. i set up one cam with the thinnest shims working from one end and measured the gaps. I was then able to pick the best fit from my collection of shims to get the gaps right reasonably easily. I ended up with some gaps that I couldn't get to with my shims and bought some too thick ones and ground one side to fit on a surface grinder. i appreciate that you may not have access to a grinder but should be able to find someone with one, it speeded things up and saved me buying lots of extra shims. i bought one of those little magnets on a stick to pick off the washers and nuts each time I took the carrier off, they also went into an egg box so I was certain that I hadn't left any behind! imwould also advise that you stick the studs into the head with some adhesive as they can work their way out with repeated dismantling. i found one valve that wouldn't come right and discovered that the depression in the top of the spring retainer was deeper than the shim was thick. Rather than take the head off to replace the retainer, I put some grease round it and gently filed it down in situ, wiped the grease off and so collected the filings. i found that the oil pump on my 2.2 engine was slightly different from the 2 one and I had to swap them over to be able to fit the alternator as the pulley was out of line. The power steering brackets are different on the two engines and I am off to Lotusbits to find one that fits properly as the 2.2 one is only attached by a single bolt! so I am getting things done at long last and will list progress if there is any!
  25. I had this problem and replaced the seal only to have it leak again, this was because the bearing in the front of the diff was worn and allowed the shaft to wobble about. Only solved by taking diff outof car for major surgery, I bought a replacement instead.
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