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Drawfiler

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Everything posted by Drawfiler

  1. I any case change the brake fluid every 2-3 years, it is hygroscopic and the water it picks up will rust brake components. This applies particularly to low usage cars.
  2. I am about to do the headlining on my Eclat, I plan to use the foam backed lining from Wooleys and their heat resisting glue., I have read the postings here but I still have some questions to ask you. How much lining do I buy How do I get the old glue off Do I recover the vertical edges of the windscreen surround, i.e. From the cant rail to the top of the dash. Thanks
  3. What about Shelshey, Walsh, they did a great job last year for Jag XK event with untamed runs up the hill.
  4. When I took my Eclat engine out, I asked Mike Taylor the best way and he said that Lotusbits always take the engine and box out together. I did this without too much trouble, he allows 3 hours but has the experience and kit to do it There are more than one type of PS pumps and mounting brackets. I took my pump off when I took the lump,out but put it back with the pump fitted. The best lift point is with a sling round the inlet manifold, I managed on my own with limited headroom by a combination of a chain hoist and trolley jack underneath and rolling the car back and forward. why no
  5. John, I think the problem is with the fuel, if the car stands for a while, the fuel will absorb water from the atmosphere. Ethanol will take on a high proportion of water to its own weight whereas petrol will only absorb 3-3.5 percent. After that, free water will sit in the bottom of a he tank. Drain and refill the tank and try again. How do I Know This? I have just had the same happen to me. Peter
  6. John, another little horror is that the keys on either the crank or cams have sheared and allowed the wheels to slip out of position however, this will upset all,cylinders not two. One other thing to look at is the vacuum outlet on the inlet manifold for the light pop up if fitted, done manifolds had blanking plugs that can be missing.
  7. It might just be possible that the inlet valves are not fully closing, you will get some compression but not enough, take off the inlet cam cover and get the feeler gauge out. I assume that valve timing is OK and that the plug leads are in the right order. I have been there too!
  8. I know that a lot of advice has been given on this topic but I would like to add some new thoughts to give a simple tune up procedure. 1 set timing to 20 degrees advanced, I do this with a strobe which will work at cranking speed. 2 check that the carbs are filling and not flooding, if not deal with the float chambers. 3 set the butterflys to open together, I have come up with this idea, use a length of feeler strip or even a piece of thin plastic strip. Push this under the butterfly on one of the rear venturies and adjust the engine speed screw on the lever of the rear carb unt
  9. My thought was that the copper pipe would be smaller diameter so would pass through any holes and rigid enough not to sag between fixings.
  10. After all this time it RUNS, there is oil pressure so now I have to tune it, which brings me to my question, I normally balance carbs with a bit of hosepipe but I have noticed the Gunson balancing kit on fleabay, has anyone tried one of these or are you all using the German gauge? Peter
  11. Would it be possible to feed a length of copper pipe through from end, if the pipe is annealed so soft, it could be bent if needed as it is fed through the holes. I can make some special fittings to connect to fuel proof flexible pipe at each end. Any thoughts? Peter
  12. I am going through the fuel system on my 1978 Eclat and I am thinking about fuel pipes, the ones from the tank to the pump are clear plastic and are showing their age. i am thinking about the pipe to the front of the car, how big a job is it to replace this and what material do I use? as always, thanks in advance.
  13. I got it all together but it would not fire up, I tried everything and finally a compression test showed no compression on two cylinders. I took the cam covers off and checked the clearances and found that despite taking great care on assembly, the gaps on three valves had vanished! I plan to take both cams off and do another comp test to be sure that there is nothing nasty going on and go through the shimming all over again! it is interesting that the gaps on other valves are as I set them, I assume that I must have had a bit of dirt under the head on these three valves. Having turned t
  14. My Eclat is finished in a brown/orange velour cloth, known in my family as baby crack, this was on the seats, door card, rear seat sides, transmission tunnel, headlining and dash. The seats are now in tan leather but the rest is as made. The problem is that 40 years grime makes it look tatty, also the velour is delaminating. I plan to do the roof in a lighter colour, the problem us with the rest. I am not concerned with originality but want to be able to do the job myself, so what do I use. I will have some curved surfaces to cover like and I might have to get it sewed. Ii don't wa
  15. I have finally got the engine back in the car and getting ready to get it started, I have got a spark and the starter motor turns things over ok. I am a bit twitched about oil pressure as it was ok before I put the engine in when I ran the pump with an electric drill, it was pumping oil from the pressure gauge outlet but having left it for a week or so there is no oil flow at the outlet. I have to sort out the electrical problems and then have another go.
  16. This is a worry to all of us, I have a simple ignition kill switch under the dash, a battery isolation switch in the engine bay and an extinguisher mounted across the front of the drivers seat. The closest I have been to having a fire is from oil dripping on to the exhaust manifold from a leaky cam cover. The carbs do flood if the floats are set wrong and petrol pours into the air box and evaporates, The box contains it and although I have real worries about a possible fire, so far the box had kept things under control, I can't see any advantage in trying to contain the fuel by uptu
  17. My 78 eclat is wired to the 'RHD non federal wiring diagram' this shows a 8amp fuse in the wire to the fuel pump, does this exist? If so where is it as my pump won't go. It is not stuck contacts, there are no volts on the connector on the pump. My second question is, have any of you replaced the pump with a solid state one, if so which and did you need a reducing valve to not flood the carbs. Peter
  18. I think it is unlikely to be metal, I suspect hard carbon deposits from burnt oil. If it was metal, you would have heard or felt it ! I have seen this before in similar situations, usually where lubrication is inadequate.
  19. When my carbs flood the fuel comes out of the trumpet and not the body, however with the alternatives now fitted, I would have a look at ignition timing, that is assuming that the plug leads are all in the right order! i would also check for induction leaks perhaps from the vac pipe for the headlights.
  20. A bit of an update, I have stripped both my engine and the used 2.2 from Lotusbits, had the 2l head skimmed, fitted new exhaust valves, exchanged the cams and valve springs, had 2.2 crank ground, fitted new rings to 2.2 pistons and started to get it all together. For those about to do this, there is a lot of help available from Lotusbits and this forum, I have a couple of additional tips that may be of help. I was. 'starting again' with valve shimming, and with two heads worth of shims, I got some egg boxes, numbered all the depressions in them and carefully measured my shims with a
  21. I had this problem and replaced the seal only to have it leak again, this was because the bearing in the front of the diff was worn and allowed the shaft to wobble about. Only solved by taking diff outof car for major surgery, I bought a replacement instead.
  22. My engine is out right now so I can't get any dimensions to do this, if anyone has got a kit installed and is happy to take dimensions, I can do the rest.
  23. I am happy to help with development and future manufacture of a kit in my own workshop, I have the machines to do it. However I don't want to steal other people's work, it seems that the project has stalled just now so judging by the large number of viewings it is well worth reviving.
  24. Just a word on timing, I had a breakdown when the clamp bolt allowed the spring to push the dizzy out of engagement. i slackened off the clamp bolt and fired up the starter motor with a hut wire from the battery bypassing the switch, rotated the dizzy until it engaged and then twisted it until the engine fired and ran. This got me home until I could retire properly. since this incident I just do the same when I have the dizzy off.
  25. I understand that the engine will run with odd cams also the inlet and exhaust can be interchanged. this leads me to think that the problems lie elsewhere, you have changed the cam sprockets, just ensure that they are the right way round, i.e. You have the exhaust marking facing out on the pulley on that cam but just check the key to keyway alignment on the crank, itis just possible that the keyway has widened so allowing all the timing to be late. This has happened to me on another vehicle. i am assuming that the ignition and carbs are all ok. peter
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