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Drawfiler

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Everything posted by Drawfiler

  1. My engine is out right now so I can't get any dimensions to do this, if anyone has got a kit installed and is happy to take dimensions, I can do the rest.
  2. I am happy to help with development and future manufacture of a kit in my own workshop, I have the machines to do it. However I don't want to steal other people's work, it seems that the project has stalled just now so judging by the large number of viewings it is well worth reviving.
  3. Just a word on timing, I had a breakdown when the clamp bolt allowed the spring to push the dizzy out of engagement. i slackened off the clamp bolt and fired up the starter motor with a hut wire from the battery bypassing the switch, rotated the dizzy until it engaged and then twisted it until the engine fired and ran. This got me home until I could retire properly. since this incident I just do the same when I have the dizzy off.
  4. I understand that the engine will run with odd cams also the inlet and exhaust can be interchanged. this leads me to think that the problems lie elsewhere, you have changed the cam sprockets, just ensure that they are the right way round, i.e. You have the exhaust marking facing out on the pulley on that cam but just check the key to keyway alignment on the crank, itis just possible that the keyway has widened so allowing all the timing to be late. This has happened to me on another vehicle. i am assuming that the ignition and carbs are all ok. peter
  5. So I have saved up and bitten the bullet, I have bought a 2.2'lit engine from LB and stripped it so I can get a set of cams, valve springs, crank, pistons large sump etc. The rest of the 2 lit bits will be swapped over along with new exhaust valves, liners, reground crank, new shells belt tensioner, later cam belt and new pulleys etc. I must say that the advice I got from LB and Mike in particular is a great help, they are prepared to spend time going over the alternatives so you get the engine you want at a price you can (just) afford. So I now gave to set to and make one engine out of two before the winter comes ( if it ever went away) Peter
  6. I will be buying some rebuild parts from Lotusbits so will get confirmation from Mike Taylor at the same time. I will put a note on here to clarify things.
  7. TAR, I am talking about a different car, sorry for confusion
  8. I have my cams off the car and found that the inlet has one groove i.e. No one D type and the exhaust has two ie No five E type. Although the car ran ok before I stripped the engine, should I change anything?
  9. Thanks, I will have another look when it is all together again
  10. I normally park my Eclat backwards into the garage, I have now got it the other way round and with the engine out. looking from the rear I can see that LH near, passenger side is lower than the right by about 1inch. My check was to measure from tyre to to bottom of wheel arch. I jacked the car up and could find no obvious problems, the uncompressed springs are the same length. I then put blocks under the wheels and lowered the car down so the weight was on the blocks. The springs were still equal lengths to within an eighth of an inch, I can see no problems with the chassis, cross member straight, top spring mounts OK, all was waxoiled from new so no corrosion. It almost as though I need to pack the body up,from the chassis on that side! What measurements can I take and what else should I look at? thanks for your help.
  11. So as I understand it, there is comp on all cylinders, it is running on 3, you mention a good spark, I assume this on the offending pot and at the right plug not holding the lead against the head etc. I would try this , get it going and test for sucking on each carb trumpet, if 2 is sucking well and in rough balance with the others with comp and spark OK , it must be fuel. If you introduce fuel into the trumpet with the engine running it should fire up on that one cylinder. If it still won't fire,, look at the inlet manifold, and the carb o ring seals or possibly damaged inlet manifold. The other thing to try is the vacuum pipe for the headlights, if they are electric, the tapping may still be there but not properly blanked off if the valves stuck down they would hit the pistons, besides there would be no compression,.
  12. I had similar symptoms and found that the motor was full of crowd, I took it out and the stator (magnetic sleeve in the motor case)" I cleaned it up and stuck it back in with epoxy and now it works well. peter
  13. I am on a trip round France in my non Lotus ( its engine is in bits in the garage at home) and as I went over the Col d' Iseran from Val d' Isere in not too good conditions, I was happy to see a large number of Loti coming in the opposite direction., perhaps 10 or more, I am pretty sure the were mostly or all UK registered but they were going well on some tight bends so couldn't check the plates. it was good to see so many cars far away from home. peter
  14. Phil, the car was retained unregistered by Lotus for some reason and then allocated to an employee for a year. It was then sold to a Lotus engineer who kept it until I bought it from him. The developments that Lotus made to the Eclat were incorporated into my car so it has a Riviera roof, Mk 2 seats etc, included in all this was a ZF manual gearbox. I asked about the box and the previous owner told me that he swapped it because he was fed up with the Maxi one breaking down. The 1/2 description is his not mine but I assume that the upgrades made him feel it was almost a Mk 2, I just don't know. Peter
  15. Phil, My fault, you are right, the water was mostly from the header tank as steam and some from the exhaust as steam and water, sorry to confuse you. I hope to get the engine out this week and have a look at the bottom end, I will have to make my mind up what to do. II will certainly need new liners and rings, if I find that the crank is scored, I am wondering about going for an uplift in capacity, as this is a two litre engine. Peter
  16. I took the head and gasket to Lotusbits this afternoon and Mike was able to diagnose the problem as a faulty head gasket combined with slightly low liners which allowed a tiny leak to develop into a torrent. The valve guides are worn so I am in for those as well He spent some time going through all the options and I am carefully weighing up the alternatives, meanwhile I will get the engine out and have a look at the bearings before making any decision. Thanks again for the advice from you all, I will keep posting as things develop. Peter
  17. Yes I did a comp test results were without oil and with oil No 1, 11.1 & 11.1, No 2 10.0 & 10.9, No 3 11.2 & 11.9, No 4, 10.5 & 11.0 all in bar, these seem to be within tolerance, I have had a feel inside the bores using a telescopic gauge and can't find any difference top to bottom of the bores or to left and right, they also look good with no scores or ridge at the top. Do you have any other comments, please keep the help coming. Thanks Peter
  18. Phil Firstly, thanks to you and all others who have given advice I agree that I am looking for a gasket, liner or possibly head fault. When I took the gasket out I could see no point where the ring from the liner or the head was not continuous or any sign of the original leak in the waterway to air on the exhaust side around 3 to 4 cylinders. As I said, I will let Mike Taylor have a look at the the gasket and head along with photos of the bores, I wonder if any one has had the seal at the bottom of the cylinder liners fail, while I don't think that is the problem I am interested in all troubles. When I took things apart I put the car up on axle stands at the jacking points, took the wheels off and attacked the exhaust manifold nuts through the space on the inner face of the near side wing, I got the sump on a trolley jack took off both engine brackets and pulled the engine over to get at the last nuts on the manifold. Peter
  19. I have got the head off with the engine in the car, I bought some small rare earth magnets to hold the shims into the cam buckets which seemed to work ok. with the head off I could not find any evidence of gasket failure in my view so I took it and the gasket to two experienced guys and one said gasket failure and the other could find no fault with it or the head. There were oily deposits on no3 pot and that plug was black when I took it out. i have checked the height of the liners against the block and theybseem to be about .05mm but will do a better measurement later, the bores look good with no signs of a crack, I will check dimensions. so where is the leak allowing the gasses to get into the waterways? Perhaps there is a crack in the head, I have booked to go to see Mike Taylor at Lotusbits who wants to sell me a full rebuild, but the bottom end is good with plenty of oil pressure and no nasty noises, If I get no further with him, I can get the head pressure tested which might find something. Any thoughts please. peter
  20. I am getting organised to do the gasket change, looking at the workshop manual I see the they recommend using magnets to hold the cam followers and shims in position, have you tried this and with modern rare earth magnets does it work, if so what size did you use, thanks peter
  21. If you look inside the sender, you will see a flat wire wound resistor with a wiper (a rheostat) if it's like mine, thevthing is worn out. The unit was Smiths and I found one at Holdens. you are right about the three wires. peter
  22. I tried k seal and it helped a bit but still considerable water loss. I then took the car out and temp soared and steam from rad overflow so I think the leak controlled by k seal had broken leading to disaster. I was quite near home so made it back and let things cool then started up again and engine was quiet so I as there was no mayonnaise is the oil I was pretty sure the bottom end was worth leaving alone. i spoke to Lotusbits who said strip the engine completely and then inspect and rebuild as needed. Paul Matty said to do the head in the car, the problem is slipping liners, but I think it is worth the risk by using retaining straps, I will report back when I have had a look inside. Peter
  23. So I tried K seal and it worked then went for amdrive yearerday and was greeted by massive water loss and high temps all round so I'm in for head off fora look. Thanks for the advice and useful comments, I think I will try getting it off in the car. I will keep posting as things progress. Peter
  24. I too want one of these when available, however I have machining facilities so can make any parts needed for the rest of us. I wondered if we could use a cycle chain and sprocket, I can bush the sprocket to fit the shaft, I can also make the attachment parts if this helps. peter
  25. Firstly establish what the fluid is, if its break juice, then you can do the job fairly easily (if anything is easy with a Lotus) if it is oil, then you need to consider taking the diff out, not so simple. The brake only job is jack up, wheel,off, drive shaft off at the drum, drum off, shoes off, stretch a dizzy glove over the fluid reservoir to stop it draining, disconnect the wheel cylinder and replace. before fitting the drums, drill a hole in line with the adjuster so you can fiddle with the tension with the drum on. lets hope it is not the diff!
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