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Drawfiler

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Everything posted by Drawfiler

  1. So I have saved up and bitten the bullet, I have bought a 2.2'lit engine from LB and stripped it so I can get a set of cams, valve springs, crank, pistons large sump etc. The rest of the 2 lit bits will be swapped over along with new exhaust valves, liners, reground crank, new shells belt tensioner, later cam belt and new pulleys etc. I must say that the advice I got from LB and Mike in particular is a great help, they are prepared to spend time going over the alternatives so you get the engine you want at a price you can (just) afford. So I now gave to set to and make one engine ou
  2. I will be buying some rebuild parts from Lotusbits so will get confirmation from Mike Taylor at the same time. I will put a note on here to clarify things.
  3. TAR, I am talking about a different car, sorry for confusion
  4. I have my cams off the car and found that the inlet has one groove i.e. No one D type and the exhaust has two ie No five E type. Although the car ran ok before I stripped the engine, should I change anything?
  5. Thanks, I will have another look when it is all together again
  6. I normally park my Eclat backwards into the garage, I have now got it the other way round and with the engine out. looking from the rear I can see that LH near, passenger side is lower than the right by about 1inch. My check was to measure from tyre to to bottom of wheel arch. I jacked the car up and could find no obvious problems, the uncompressed springs are the same length. I then put blocks under the wheels and lowered the car down so the weight was on the blocks. The springs were still equal lengths to within an eighth of an inch, I can see no problems with the chassis, cross me
  7. So as I understand it, there is comp on all cylinders, it is running on 3, you mention a good spark, I assume this on the offending pot and at the right plug not holding the lead against the head etc. I would try this , get it going and test for sucking on each carb trumpet, if 2 is sucking well and in rough balance with the others with comp and spark OK , it must be fuel. If you introduce fuel into the trumpet with the engine running it should fire up on that one cylinder. If it still won't fire,, look at the inlet manifold, and the carb o ring seals or possibly damaged inlet manif
  8. I had similar symptoms and found that the motor was full of crowd, I took it out and the stator (magnetic sleeve in the motor case)" I cleaned it up and stuck it back in with epoxy and now it works well. peter
  9. I am on a trip round France in my non Lotus ( its engine is in bits in the garage at home) and as I went over the Col d' Iseran from Val d' Isere in not too good conditions, I was happy to see a large number of Loti coming in the opposite direction., perhaps 10 or more, I am pretty sure the were mostly or all UK registered but they were going well on some tight bends so couldn't check the plates. it was good to see so many cars far away from home. peter
  10. Phil, the car was retained unregistered by Lotus for some reason and then allocated to an employee for a year. It was then sold to a Lotus engineer who kept it until I bought it from him. The developments that Lotus made to the Eclat were incorporated into my car so it has a Riviera roof, Mk 2 seats etc, included in all this was a ZF manual gearbox. I asked about the box and the previous owner told me that he swapped it because he was fed up with the Maxi one breaking down. The 1/2 description is his not mine but I assume that the upgrades made him feel it was almost a Mk 2, I just d
  11. Phil, My fault, you are right, the water was mostly from the header tank as steam and some from the exhaust as steam and water, sorry to confuse you. I hope to get the engine out this week and have a look at the bottom end, I will have to make my mind up what to do. II will certainly need new liners and rings, if I find that the crank is scored, I am wondering about going for an uplift in capacity, as this is a two litre engine. Peter
  12. I took the head and gasket to Lotusbits this afternoon and Mike was able to diagnose the problem as a faulty head gasket combined with slightly low liners which allowed a tiny leak to develop into a torrent. The valve guides are worn so I am in for those as well He spent some time going through all the options and I am carefully weighing up the alternatives, meanwhile I will get the engine out and have a look at the bearings before making any decision. Thanks again for the advice from you all, I will keep posting as things develop. Peter
  13. Yes I did a comp test results were without oil and with oil No 1, 11.1 & 11.1, No 2 10.0 & 10.9, No 3 11.2 & 11.9, No 4, 10.5 & 11.0 all in bar, these seem to be within tolerance, I have had a feel inside the bores using a telescopic gauge and can't find any difference top to bottom of the bores or to left and right, they also look good with no scores or ridge at the top. Do you have any other comments, please keep the help coming. Thanks Peter
  14. Phil Firstly, thanks to you and all others who have given advice I agree that I am looking for a gasket, liner or possibly head fault. When I took the gasket out I could see no point where the ring from the liner or the head was not continuous or any sign of the original leak in the waterway to air on the exhaust side around 3 to 4 cylinders. As I said, I will let Mike Taylor have a look at the the gasket and head along with photos of the bores, I wonder if any one has had the seal at the bottom of the cylinder liners fail, while I don't think that is the problem I am interested
  15. I have got the head off with the engine in the car, I bought some small rare earth magnets to hold the shims into the cam buckets which seemed to work ok. with the head off I could not find any evidence of gasket failure in my view so I took it and the gasket to two experienced guys and one said gasket failure and the other could find no fault with it or the head. There were oily deposits on no3 pot and that plug was black when I took it out. i have checked the height of the liners against the block and theybseem to be about .05mm but will do a better measurement later, the bor
  16. I am getting organised to do the gasket change, looking at the workshop manual I see the they recommend using magnets to hold the cam followers and shims in position, have you tried this and with modern rare earth magnets does it work, if so what size did you use, thanks peter
  17. If you look inside the sender, you will see a flat wire wound resistor with a wiper (a rheostat) if it's like mine, thevthing is worn out. The unit was Smiths and I found one at Holdens. you are right about the three wires. peter
  18. I tried k seal and it helped a bit but still considerable water loss. I then took the car out and temp soared and steam from rad overflow so I think the leak controlled by k seal had broken leading to disaster. I was quite near home so made it back and let things cool then started up again and engine was quiet so I as there was no mayonnaise is the oil I was pretty sure the bottom end was worth leaving alone. i spoke to Lotusbits who said strip the engine completely and then inspect and rebuild as needed. Paul Matty said to do the head in the car, the problem is slipping liners, but
  19. So I tried K seal and it worked then went for amdrive yearerday and was greeted by massive water loss and high temps all round so I'm in for head off fora look. Thanks for the advice and useful comments, I think I will try getting it off in the car. I will keep posting as things progress. Peter
  20. I too want one of these when available, however I have machining facilities so can make any parts needed for the rest of us. I wondered if we could use a cycle chain and sprocket, I can bush the sprocket to fit the shaft, I can also make the attachment parts if this helps. peter
  21. Firstly establish what the fluid is, if its break juice, then you can do the job fairly easily (if anything is easy with a Lotus) if it is oil, then you need to consider taking the diff out, not so simple. The brake only job is jack up, wheel,off, drive shaft off at the drum, drum off, shoes off, stretch a dizzy glove over the fluid reservoir to stop it draining, disconnect the wheel cylinder and replace. before fitting the drums, drill a hole in line with the adjuster so you can fiddle with the tension with the drum on. lets hope it is not the diff!
  22. Thanks Steve, can someone confirm the figures, I am a bit confused as I thought that we are looking for a torque figure so would the 95 be ft lbs? peter
  23. Has anyone got the proper belt gauge and be prepared to use it to calibrate a Chinese gauge for me, all I want you to do I see to set your belt tension using the pukka gauge and then take a reading with my gauge so I know if I get that reading in future the tension is OK. if you can help, I can post the gaug to you to work on. Many thanks Peter
  24. As you have all been a bit quiet in your replies and have total faith in Lotus reliability, I bow to your superior knowledge and faith, however I think it is always wise to be prepared so here is my list of spares and tools. I await your thoughts! Spares fuel pump (I am still using SUs) all v belts one long plug lead clutch cable set of hoses reel of gaffer tape reel of plastic tape cable ties fuses 3m cable ignition unit (I am running Powerspark so the clever bit occupies a tiny space) jubilee clips bottle of K seal bu
  25. I have a list of parts and tools that I use when packing for a trip away from home, I would like to compare this with what you take with you. I will not preempt you by giving my list but perhaps between us we can produce a really useful first aid kit. peter
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