free hit
Drawfiler's Content - Page 5 - The Lotus Forums Jump to content


Basic Account
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Drawfiler

  1. I may have to remove the cylinder head on my Eclat, I was going to get it checked for flatness on a large surface plate, this got me thinking, if I blue the head in I could remove high spots with a scraper. This would mean that the head would not have to be dismantled, the amount of metal removed would be the barest minimum and I would save on grinding costs. Have you tried this or is this a silly idea? Peter
  2. Do be certain that there is no rot on the important chassis before going any further. As others say, the Lotus engine is pretty good and as a mechanic you should be able to make the whole thing original. Pleny of posts here on headline problems, that should be fairly easy to sort out. good luck
  3. Thanks for the advice, the steam is probably just a tiny weep that is dripping onto the exhaust somewhere. I will get the car on ramps and have a proper look before doing anything drastic. Do I need to use gasket sealant on the head and will it go back flat without skimming? Thanks again to all Peter Sorry Phil lower rocker box is the exhaust cam cover. peter
  4. So it is possible to get the head off and out of the car without moving the block, yes I do have the lifting tackle if need be. it just seems darn hard to get to the lower down stuff without being a gynaecologist. peter
  5. My Eclat is giving me some worries, there is steam coming from somewhere below the lower rocker box. I have to conclude that I have a gasket problem. I have tried Kseal which has not cured it, I might try a second go at this as the leak is small (only slight wisps of steam!), the oil is clear so no leaks into the sump. My questions are, is there anything else to try before I take the head off, do I have to take the engine out to do it and what else should I do at the same time. All advice is welcome. Peter
  6. I had the same problem, bought one from mike and did a 'manual' backlash test compared to my noisy leaking one and decided to do the swap. if you do it, try this, make a frame from angle iron that holds the new dif in position on a jack, get the carbup in the air, remember you will need to get the diff clear of the car, best on a ramp, get the prop,and drive shafts off,undo the hand brake and take the weight on your frame on a jack, I used an engine Jack adapted with a flat top on it. Jack the whole car up with the Jack and support it with wood blocks under the jacking points , rem
  7. I scraped off all the rust and something like paper on the magnet face and the rust inside the casing and then glued the magnets in the same way up as before, 1 inch down the casing and opposite each other making sure that the two bolt holes were not obscured. I let it set overnight and reassembled the motor. I found that the rotor a bit tight so slackened off the screw on the gearbox end of the shaft, this freed it up and it seems to run ok. It seems to,me that the knob on the other end of the motor is purely to allow you to move the motor on a little bit when it has switched itself off.
  8. My Eclat pod motors have always been a bit dodgy, left has moved well but the right has been sluggish. the next problem was that the right stuck down and would not budge. After much wrestling, I got the pod off and started to try and diagnose the problem, the motor would run then stop at the next try. I started on the relays but got no improvement so I took a look at the motor contacts, they were OK. After some thought, I took the motor apart to find that the magnets had become detached from the casing. The screws and the casing were rusty so a big clean up and I stuck the magnets ba
  9. Drawfiler


  10. Can someone help sort this out once and for all. Please will one of you with a KriKit gauge let us all know :- 1 Which model of the gauge do we buy as there a several available 2 what is the reading on that gauge that corresponds to correct timing belt tension. If we can get this data sorted out and published on this site we will stop all those worries for good. Thanks in advance Peter
  11. I find jacking up my Eclat up is slow and I hate that creaking noise from the jackingg points. I have now come up with this, get a simple pallet truck and slide it under the car from the front then slip some wood pieces across the ends of the forks towards the rear under the car. Pump up the truck and put either a normal trolley jack under the jacking point or use wood. You can go again with more wood on the truck forks for more height. I find this both quick and safe. peter
  12. My car is a 77 Eclat, there is an oil cooler mounted behind the radiator and its top just clears the bottom of the deflector.I do not know if this was standard on all cars or an extra.
  13. I spoke to the guys at Lotusbits about my belt running at the rear near to the block, they told me that it was normal and not to worry.
  14. On my car the deflector reaches to the top of the oil cooler, if it was deeper the flow of air would be disturbed.
  15. I advanced to 30 degrees and rich ended up carbs a little, things much improved. Thanks to all for help.
  16. As you have tried almost everything it becomes a real pain. Have you got Lumenition, if so that could have an intermittent fault, I have had 3 units go on my car. Matty have given up,with them and use points, I have got in the dizzy system from Powerspark with a new dizzy and coil it came to,under £100. i wonder if the central electrode in your dizzy cap is not making contact or that there is a hairline crack in the cap?
  17. Thanks Andy, will try that, now the belt tensioner has developed a nasty squeak so it's back to square one. such are the joys Peter
  18. The original dizzy was spec 7 ie a 45d with Lumenition, according to the manual it should be on 2 degrees at idle and 24 to 26 at 3000 rpm.
  19. Dizzy is all mechanical, no vacuum advance and always had been since I bought it, however there may be leak from the Vac pipe outlet on the manifold, so where is it? The other thing is ignition timing, I am getting 20 degree advance at 3000 rpm, the book gives conflicting settings so what is best?
  20. Running the car at idle is fine, when I am driving in traffic all is well with hard acceleration, ie the pumps work OK but with gentle pedal pressure I get a flat spot. I know that not much goes on below 2000 rpm but this is not right I am running on Powerspark ignition with their dizzie set to 18 degrees at 3000 rpm retard at lower revs seems to work ok, carbs rebuilt and sucking equally at low revs. what do I do next?
  21. My Eclat has now started to make nasty squeaking noises from the front of the engine, I slackened off the alternator but that did not deal,with it so I got the listening stick (long screwdriver) and it seems that the water pump is OK so that brings me to the belt tensioner. Is it possible to do a simple rebuild, say new bearings, or must Inget it done professionally? peter
  22. I flushed the system from the filler cap, took the thermostat off and flushed the block that way, put it all together and filled it with water and flushing agent, after an hours running I flushed again and refilled. It seems to be ok now. Got a new problem with squeal in the cam belt tensioner, see my new post. Such are the joys of Lotus ownership.
  23. Before you reach for the spammers, pop a bottle of Kseal in the rad, it just might do the trick, I have a pal with a Lexus that did 100,000 miles after this and I have a Jag engine that has gone for 5 years since treatment. peter
  24. The pump was rebuilt and fitted by Lotusbits under 2000 miles ago, yes I am going to do thermostat test, I am flushing rad with water then the block, will follow on with rad flushing stuff. Don't forget by initial worry about lack of water in the system so I am still chasing an airlock.u
  • Create New...