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  1. I flushed the system from the filler cap, took the thermostat off and flushed the block that way, put it all together and filled it with water and flushing agent, after an hours running I flushed again and refilled. It seems to be ok now.

    Got a new problem with squeal in the cam belt tensioner, see my new post. Such are the joys of Lotus ownership.

  2. I have had a problem with overheating in my Eclat, it has a recently fitted  water pump, new fan switch, 2 new fans. I replaced the thermostat but will check again.

    so I drained the coolant and found that there was not enough of it! The heater has been working well so I suspect an airlock somewhere that is stopping the system filling up properly, I have seen in the book that it is recommended to release the heater pipe to let the air out but the heater would not work if there was air there. Any other ideas please?

  3. I have been digging around and found some relays, perhaps you could help me eliminate some,

    i have two under the RH offside headlight, I am on electric operated pop ups

    i have some interesting wiring buried under left side of the drivers footwell against the radio, I think there is a relay in there, lamp failed in the  dark so can not be sure.

    are these standard positions, the book is so little help.



  4. My Eclat is part Mk1 and part Mk 2. It was much tinkered with by the factory when they kept unregistered for a year. One problem that I have is that I can't find the relays for the fog lights, an added complication is that I have retro fitted electric pop up lights which I think are a factory fix.

    So can someone tell me where to look for this relay as the lights only work sometimes!

    many thanks 


  5. I have had Lumenition ignition on two of my cars, my Éclat and my Ronart (jag engine). In the last 3 years I have had 5 failures of the Lumenition module so I have had enough.

    I took advice from all the classic Lotus sources and had mixed advice,one route was to go back to points and put up with the reliability problems the other was to switch to a fully mapped modern system a serious cost so I then went to Powerspark who advertise on the net and bought a new dizzy for both cars fitted with their modules, the dizzies were both fitted with the right springs and weights to fit the correct specs. Both gave a little trouble with fitting because the tolerances on the driving dog and clamping ring were not to OE spec but still when I got them running they performed well with good starting and top revs performance.

    I have no connection with Powerspark and can only speak as I find but the kit works for me.

  6. I would have a good look at it first, if it has leaked from any of the three shafts, you will need to replace bearings and seals, if the diff was quiet and there is no play in the meshing then new seals will probably be enough.

    I am told there is a firm on The Wirral called Voight, I have no experience of them but they do refurb our type of diff.

  7. I have just done mine and i would propose you do one at a time so you can look at the other when it goes wrong.

    I took the air box and trumpets etc off, and disconnected one carb, i then tried the accelerator pump and found that one was not working as the ball was missing.

    Put the whole carb in an empty washing up bowl and take it to bits keaving the pump adjustment as it is. The bowl will catch the lost bits! Put the body into an ultrasonic tank and then blow dry. Put the jets and screws through the tank as well and then carefully replace the o rings, some are just different in size from others so be careful.

    Replace those 8 big rings where the carbs join the manifold but do not do the nuts too tight.

    turn on fuel and look for flooding, if it is there look at float height, you can tell if all is well as fuel pump will stop clicking.

    set screws to original setting and try and start uptjhen listen to each trumpet in turn and go for balance, after that move all screws the same amount.

  8. My Eclat has been converted from vacuum to electric pop up lights, it also as fog lights mounted in the front bumper, the switch for these has volts coming out of it but the wire goes into the loom and I asume, via a relay, to the ligthts

    My problem is that no volts are getting to the lights so there could be a relay somewhere that has failed, but where is it, there are relays in the headlight pods but along with sundry other muck I dont seem to have one for the fogs.

    So can someone tell me where to start looking.

    My second problem is with the interior lights, they are prety dim and so I assume we are looking for an earth fault, where should these be earthed to?The lights in the doors are bright.

    Many thanks for the advice



  9. The saga contnues.I can get at te sender without taking off any of the tank pipes so I then discovered that the snder was badly worn and the used replacement only slightly better. I then started to look for a new one and ended up with Speedy Cables wo had one in stock so that is going in next.I also plan to put a thin sheet of plastic over the top of the sender and its layer of duct tape to stop the connectors working loose. 

  10. OK I have got the diff out and replaced, I asked all my contacts for advice and now ant to pass on the knowledge for those poor souls who have got to do it themselves.

    Firstly it is a long job, Lotusbits allow 10 hours with 2 people at it for some of that tine so be prepared for a long and hard haul.

    so this is what I did.

    1 jack the car up as high as possible and make a cradle to hold the diff, this is a tee piece with the top of the tee the distance between the brake backplates,I made mine out of 3" x 1 1/2" tube, then make a pair of vertical pieces with cutouts to fit round the webs on the underside of the diff by the output bearings these are just tall enough to enable the top of the T to miss the bottom of  the diff. now weld the vertical member of the tee to reach forward in line with the prop shaft and cut it off just short of the slot in the dif frame so you can reach the prop shaft nuts.

    2 position this cradle under the diff and measure from the top of the diff to the bottom of the cradle, this is the minimum lift you will have to raise the back of the cat by, To this add the height of the trolley jack (if that is the way uou are going ) and raise the car accordingly

    3 if you can get a ramp and an engine hoist there is a better way, take the arm off the top of the hoist and fit a plate to the top of the ram to support the cradle.

    4 using the ramp method, you can now put the car on the ramp and raise it right up, put the hoist beneath the dif and lower the car until the cradle is just holding the dif and starting to take the weight of the car.

    5 undo the road wheels

    6 put  wooden blocks under the jacking points 

    7 lower car onto the blocks and remove the cradle

    8 remove drive shafts and brake drums

    9 slacken the horizontal and vertical bolts holding the diff cage into the car

    10 temove prop shaft bolts

    11 remove the horizontal studs holding the dif into the car

    12 remove the handbrake r clips, a pointed rod will help push them out

    13 remove handbrake clevis pins

    14 put the cradle back into position and take weight of the dif

    15 remove the vertical diff studs

    16 disconnect the rigid brake pipe from the diff

    17 push the diff to one side and gently lower it about 1" rolling it at the same time so the brake fitting on one of the  the drum backplates passes below the chasais member

    18 repeat for other side,

    19 lower dif and pull engine hoist clear.

    Replacement is the reverse, but be careful threading the brake fittings back into position.

    You can do it with just a trolley jack if you must, but it is horrible.

    One other tip, when you replace the dif output shaft bearings and seals, you will find that there are two o rings to be replaced, the manual says to glue thim in but if you also bolt the drum back plate to the housing with m5 nuts and bolts with the nuts to the inside, it is possible to just engage the housing with the diff and then remove the nuts and bolts before pushing the bearing housing home, this will stop the o ring from falling out of position.

    Good luck

  11. Just a thought, my Eclat needed a carb rebuild so I got the kit and took great care to do the job right. It would not run right  and was impossible to start when hot.

    I fiddled and faffed for days with this and in the end took it to Lotubits.

    The problem was because the previous owner had changed the headlights from pneumatic to electric popups. The pipe from the manifold goees into the front by the rad and had a blanking bung in it . This bung was leaking and the air was getting in there causing a weak mixture on tick over so I had over compensated and the car would not run properly when warm, I replaced the bung and balanced up, all is well now. so look for leaks!

  12. I also chatted to Lotusbits about all this and was told to make sure that the seal between the carbs and manifold is prone to leaking, thia allows air in and the carb becomes self feeding and can lead to my problem of over fueling you then tend to reduce mixture to compensate and the problems follow on from there.

    So replace the 8 rings in the joints inbetween the carb and manifold and try again.

    Could be worth atry

  13. Oh Dear, this seems to be a bit of a universal problem area, I have much the same but I think we have a collection of faults that come together sometimes to give failure.

    I propose you try this, take off the air filter and its box so you can see the carb venturies as I think this problem can be caused by over fueling and the petrol evaporating and filling the filter box with fumes that stop the engine going right when it is hot.

    I also think that aged lunenitions run out of puff and and will not give enough spark under duress (say when hot) so can not spark a wet plug.

    You arrive at the shops on a hot day, turn off, the fuel evaporates and fills the filter box, you come backin 10 minutes and the engine wil not fire up but floods the plugs so you wait for half an hour and all is well.

    I propose this, get it all hot and not starting, take out the plugs and check for spark if ok wind the car over with no plugs in to blow the fuel out, put the plugs back and try again. if it goes then flooding is the problem if not igniton is not working under in cylinder conditons.

    After this get back to us all and releive our misery

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