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  1. So now my Eclat is through its MOT it's time to start thinking about the cosmetic touches - and one of the things I'm after is a working replacement for the original S2 Panasonic radio. Mine has died and, although there's plenty of alternative replacement possibilities, I'd love to find the same unit as it had originally. There's something so right for this car about a crappy radio with too many buttons. In brown plastic! Anyone here able to help out? Thanks in advance.
  2. Almost a year to the day after picking up Lucy, my electric blue Eclat S2.2 Riviera, she's passed her MOT first time. As nail-biting as waiting in the maternity ward but the gents at JTF came out smiling, and waving her clean bill of health. There's a slight blow in the exhaust but that's it! Thanks to everyone on here who's given their advice, help and support. Now to take her out for a spin!
  3. Cheers for that gents. Like yours John mine heads off towards the off side but then runs out near the battery box. It makes sense that it outlets away from the exhaust pipes, I've obviously just lost a bit of pipe along the way! Is there an obvious hole that it exits through?
  4. Hello all. So, the breather pipe in the boot is yellow and rotten-looking meaning there's a gentle smell of petrol in there. And also the end is just flapping loose over near the battery box, which doesn't seem right. Or very safe! Where should this pipe be routed to? And has anyone got a recommendation for the dimension and material for a replacement pipe? Thanks in advance.
  5. That's the same as mine - the under bonnet light cable comes down the right hand side of the bonnet and connects to the loom near the alternator. These two cables come down near the cam covers - so I need to do something with them to make sure they don't foul in the belt! I'm still thinking the radio shielding makes sense.
  6. Thanks for this - makes perfect sense as there's actually two wires hanging from the bonnet. The short one will reach the foil, the long one I will earth to the block. Now, anyone got any thoughts about the spade connector on the gas strut..?
  7. Hi all, just refitted the bonnet on my S2 and am left with an earth lead running off the metal frame of the bonnet that the PO had left dangling. Where is this meant to go? And similarly there's a spade connector on the gas strut. Any idea what was attached to this? Many thanks!
  8. Thanks Andy, I did follow your original thought, and yes I'm aware of the nut inside the dash too - and they're set so the buttons protrude as far as they can go. Obviously I was being unclear in my reply! No worries, I'll keep trying.
  9. Interesting you should say that Don. I finally fitted the air filter, box and induction tube yesterday - and now the car won't start. I was beaten by lack of light last night but I suspect that all that extra in front of the carbs has impeded the airflow so much that the engine has flooded. So I'll need to reset the carbs again. Does that sound familiar to anyone? Interesting you should say that Don. I finally fitted the air filter, box and induction tube yesterday - and now the car won't start. I was beaten by lack of light last night but I suspect that all that extra in front of the carbs has impeded the airflow so much that the engine has flooded. So I'll need to reset the carbs again. Does that sound familiar to anyone?
  10. Thanks for this Andy. The buttons do work when operated by hand, and are already wound all the way out. I wonder if it's possible that they're now too far out? That they work better when they aren't completely depressed? Any thoughts welcome!
  11. Here's an interesting little problem. When I close the doors the passenger door doesn't close enough to switch off the interior light. But it does turn off the red light on the door's outer edge. Only when I apply pressure on the door from outside does it finally switch the lights off. It's almost like the door isn't hanging square so that when it's shut it's in the wrong position. But from outside the door appears true horizontally and closed flush to the body. What's really strange is that it will shut off the red light - which works off the same button. Anyone else come up against this conundrum? And got any brilliant solutions? Thanks in advance, Dan
  12. Hi Richard, I'm also after an S2 Eclat handbook. So if you can help out at all... Or if anyone else has one available? Thanks, Dan
  13. Hi Adrian, As we've discussed before I've got most of the interior of a 1978 Elite in the pale beige/caramel leather in good nick - everything except dash and front seats. If you are interested it's in London and it'll be rather less than the figures named. I'll be able to send you some photos on a couple of weeks, I'm currently working away from home. Cheers, Dan
  14. On the S2 again but there's only a switch on the driver's belt socket, nothing to the seat or the oassenger side. The wiring from this runs under the carpet & centre piece to the handbrake. There's two female spade connectors there, one from the seatbelt circuit and one to the handbrake light. When the ignition is on and the handbrake engaged the handbrake light is on. Once the handbrake is off this completes the seatbelt light circuit which is then broken by the belt being buckled up.
  15. About forty quid as I recall. Plus VAT and shipping. And on mine the handbrake and seat belt light are both wired into the handbrake mechanism. Under the rubber gaiter. The seat belt light doesn't come on until after the handbrake's been released.
  16. And my Eclat also had a lot of water ingress so the motors for the heater box had rusted solid. I got a whole new unit from LotusBits and it's not a complete nightmare to switch them.
  17. There is an earthing point on the top of the metal frame that supports the steering column, directly behind the dials. Once again that's on a S2...
  18. Not sure about the S1 but on my S2 the horn, indicators and hazards all run off the same fuse. Which was also shared by the headlamp lift motors one of which had a fault. So when this fuse blew it would take out all the others. Don't know if this helps, I realise you don't have the lift motors on the S1.
  19. Patience! And a large flat-head screwdriver. I'd got the trims off myself when I was still planning to fit the screen. Just a question of working my way along the trim until I came to the next clip and then gently levering it off. It wasn't perfect by any means but now it's been refitted there are only a couple of bumps that anyone would notice.
  20. Hello Matt, I'm in North London and I'm just finishing off my Eclat S2 Riviera. It's not concourse but might be of interest as it has neither Air Con or PAS - something of a rarity on a Riviera I believe. Should be complete in the next six weeks or so. Should be..! Dan
  21. Hi all, Headlining retrimmed, electrics (nearly!) finished and dash refitted I finally got round to having the windscreen on my S2 Eclat Riviera fitted last weekend. I had been all geared up to do it myself but was persuaded by my better half (who'd helped me with the headlining and probably didn't want it ruined!) to have a look around the back of the internet for a professional to do it for me. So I did. And having discounted all the generic Autoglass-type companies I came across a guy called Tye from Mobile Glass Replacement who came and removed the old one - several weeks before, allowing me to refit the interior with ease - and then fit the new one. And he's done a fantastic job. Including spending a good while twisting and straightening the top and bottom finishing strips so they now fit (almost) as good as new. And the price was VERY reasonable! So good was his work in fact that I promised I'd give him a mention on the forums. I can finally see the project coming to an end - and taking the Riviera for his nail-biting MOT! So...if anyone in the North London/Essex area needs a screen fitting please PM me and I'll send you Tye's number. Now, to work out why the rear interior lights won't turn off and keep flattening the battery... Dan
  22. Hi Don, In the end, and with much scratching of the head and struggling over the wiring diagram, I worked out that the previous owner had rewired the loom to ignore the Fan Fail relay altogether. So the only relay on the fan circuit is now the one that operates the fan motors and that is a standard square 12v 30A relay that I picked up for a few quid from the local motor factors. I don't have anything that looks like the cylindrical relay that you, or SJ, have. The fans do now work fine. Now I've just got to repeat the whole process - circuit diagram, multimeter etc. - with the headlight motors. Try and get them to work! Cheers, Dan
  23. Hi there, the walnut veneer of my centre switch panel is in a terrible state and so, before I have to find someone to recover it, I was wondering if anyone out there had such a thing? I'm guessing they're not exactly common! Thanks, Dan
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