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directordanw

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Everything posted by directordanw

  1. You still need a fairly delicate hand to reach through the various access holes. And I don't have the smallest hands..!
  2. This is invaluable! Thanks for this, it's my next job. Got everything back together yesterday but was squinting at the handbrake adjustment and decided it needed some thinking time. You've now done the thinking for me! The new compensator might be the key, I have replaced mine but the downside of that is that it's so new and stiff it's very hard to manipulate to get any access to the nuts. But bolstered by your success I'm going back in tomorrow!
  3. Here’s a related question. I’ve just spent months getting everything together for my rear suspension rebuild including all new brake lines. Today was the day I was going to put everything back together - only to discover that that my new brake lines foul on the chassis and mean that the differential won’t fit back in despite the brake lines being modelled on the originals I’d removed. Has anyone else had this problem? What am I missing? I’m obviously being stupid but I’m buggered if I can work out how. The only solution I can see would be to add very tight bends immediately after the cylinders but the doesn’t strike me as ideal.
  4. To be boringly precise it's from an S1 Elite or Eclat so @tom kilner it is the wheel you need. The S2 steering wheel has an upholstered panel in the centre and no Lotus name.
  5. They’re a standard size across both Elite & Eclat, S1 & S2. I replaced mine from Lotusbits. Definitely worth a call.
  6. If you can be bothered to drag it out of the field it’s worth three times that stripped for parts alone. Be very interesting to see if anyone on here bought it...
  7. KW stands for Pink/White so possibly refers to the high resistance wire that leads to the positive on the coil. The wiring diagram must bundle both these components together or was possibly drawn with the thinking that a ballast resistor wouldn’t be necessary. My S1 just had the coil, no resistor.
  8. There’s several on eBay right now. The red M reg is particularly tempting...
  9. I’ve always got dizzy parts from Distributor Doctor - http://www.distributordoctor.com/ They have a great selection of their own replacement caps and rotors but they also offer a full rebuild service which might be the way forward if you do struggle to find a replacement horizontally mounted distributor.
  10. I had always thought C2 was the ballast resistor. But it's a long time since I studied electrical symbols at O level physics..!
  11. I remember being completely foxed by this on my Eclat 2.2; that did have a Lumenition but had the same shielded pink/white wire. I finally figured it out from the diagram - it's represented by the zigzag line marked KW that runs to the positive side of the coil with the ballast resistor. I would think that the wiring on the 503 S1 would be sufficiently similar, just bypassing the ignition amplifier from the negative to distributor.
  12. Phoning Lotusbits would be your best bet. They’re not always the quickest at answering their email.
  13. It must be an S2 thing. Both my Eclat and Elite only had one flexi-pipe and one bleed nipple.
  14. I think that just about sums us Elite owners up - all big kids!
  15. So this is as good as I can get of the internal thread I’m afraid. No gap on show here. Sorry!
  16. Nothing here either. Just an empty box with a blue question mark in it. And if I click on that I get a bigger empty box with a blue question mark in it!
  17. Hmmm, that could be less easy - the angle drive was completely rebuilt by Speedy Cables and they have used thread lock to secure the nut so that the entire unit can then just be wound into the gearbox till it's hand tight. Saves having to thread both sides up at the same time which I found a pig of a job on the Eclat. I'll have another look tomorrow to see if there's any flat area between the threads visible but as you can understand I'm wary of undoing their work now it's been set up for the Getrag. But in theory as long as the two threads are individually long enough to hold the drive onto the box and seat the quill snugly in the red worm screw then you should be in business...in theory... It's a long shot but if you had the thread size and diameter you might be able to create something by brazing two suitable nuts together? Sadly the van's handbrake let it down today so I haven't got my calipers back but I'll get as many dimensions for you as I can once it's home.
  18. We were right to be unsurprised. My calipers are in the van and the van is having its MOT today so I’ve had to use my eyes and with such, allowing for parallax and my shaky hands and the phase of the moon, I can scientifically state quite categorically that yes, they are different! How much so I can’t be quite so definite... I’ve got the angle drive on the bench now so as soon as the van’s back I’ll measure it a bit more accurately. Although I’m sure any fabricator would easily be able to replicate something using my measurements so far. No?
  19. I've got mine in a box upstairs - nowhere near refitting it yet. I'll dig it out and see if I can get some measurements for you. From memory the thread width is different at each end, but that's my memory and logic is telling me that can't make sense...
  20. It's a useful book; it includes handy phrases like 'this shouldn't take long' and 'I'm sure I put that bit somewhere safe'.
  21. The diff's the easy bit! Who's going to sort those front seats, cos my gran wants her curtains back!
  22. I knew I’d seen something somewhere. Here she is with a Lotus. And some funny chap with a ‘tache. Does that help???
  23. I haven’t got the workshop manual in front of me but from memory it’s as simple as: Remove the door card far enough to disconnect electric windows, speakers etc. Unfasten the check strap at the A pillar side. Undo the large nuts (4?) that hold the hinge to the car so you can remove the entire fixture Once you’ve got the door beam out of the door (can be a pain if the beam is rusty) you can drift the pin out on the bench. Lotusbits recommend fitting a grease nipple to the hinge, I intend to but need to work out where it won’t foul with the door action This is very well covered (for once!) in the manual. If you haven’t got a copy they’re well worth the investment
  24. Or Kelvedon Lotus have got a rear set and a few of the front letters too: http://www.kelsport.net/parts/product_details.asp?PartID=5753&categoryID=29&PartsectionID=25
  25. Similarly looking for all the plastic coverings around the rear wiper. So if plans are afoot please count me in! Dan
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